This is not an insult it’s a compliment - u bring a layman approach to knife making but an honest one … u definitely have gotten a good number of views on past videos - b nice to see u make more videos like this one ?
Alex, I just got a reply to one of my comments on this. Ideo from the s Amber's trying to look like your account saying I won something. This scam has been rolling through UA-cam the last few months. Just thought you might want to know.
@@jeffallen3382 I got the same kind of reply representing to be Alex saying I won a Benchmade mini Crooked River. When they asked for a shipping fee ($60) I stopped texting.
Interesting side note; in the 1970's a piece of hardened high carbon steel jackhammer bit spaulded off & was going just fast enough to hit me inside the elbow of my left arm & enter the basilic vein ( the largest vein in the arm ) but not through it. By the time that I got to the local hospital emergency room & got an initial X-ray, the steel had migrated up into my shoulder. A few minutes later the next X-ray showed the steel bouncing around inside the right atrium of my heart, which is the path that cyanotic blood takes when it is eventually returning to the lungs to drop the carbon dioxide molecule & pick up another oxygen molecule. After having to lay flat on my back for 3 days in ICU to ensure that the steel attached itself to the atrial wall, instead of exiting the heart & lodging in the small venules of the lung & forming a clot which would have to be removed by surgery, a catheterization of the vein in the other arm was performed to attempt to remove the steel. After 4 hours of being strapped on a fluoroscope table, so the surgeon could rotate my body between two axes to see where his catheter was located, he failed to remove that foreign object. I'm 72 years old now & still carry around that piece of shrapnel in my atrium. This story is just a reinforcement of your warning to always wear personal protective equipment when you're working in a potentially hazardous environment, because you never know when a freak event might happen!
Whoa!!! That's crazy! Ive come to the conclusion that hardened steel is not to be messed with in in appropriate ways. I had a piece of a hammer break off and cut my arm. I completely forgot about it until i read another comment where the same thing happened. Your story is scary though! Who would have thought.
@@joshstarkey8883 that's a good point but (just a guess) I imagine it's not really able to rust as there's little to no free oxygen in the blood.. like it's all within red blood cells
I just want to mention that the piece you broke at 10:15 in the video was probably one of the most (if not the most) powerful ones until that point. Even though it only "flew at 6mph", the energy was dumped into opening the jaws. Those things are not easy to open, and they were opened halfway in less than a second. Brutal...
This is why they tell you to be careful not to drop your straight razor onto a hard surface ( such as a ceramic sink or floor.. not to mention if it misses the floor it will probably cut off a toe..) the razor is tempered to such a high degree that the metal is actually brittle. They will break, don’t ask me how I know..lol! Thanks for the video,always entertaining and informative. Cheers from Nova Scotia. M.
Lots of years ago, an impact wobbly exploded on me at work one day. Knocked my safety glasses across the bay and gave me a gnarly black eye and a little cut on my cheek. A couple of years later I had a little magnetic pointer and noticed my little scar from that jumped out to stick to it. Wife kinda put her for down and made me go to the doc. Turned out I had been carrying a little chunk of that adapter in my cheek all that time. She insisted I have it removed and I still have it in a little jar in the top of my tool box next to my safety glasses.
I do sword fighting and we once had a blade break. Found the pieces stuck in a tree and we were terrified since checking every blade before use. Pretty much reflects your results
@@jeanladoire4141 Not sure I'd go that far. it is surprising, how much was possible, genrally speaking pretty early on already, and what was actually done, as well. But without electric controlled thermometers and furnaces, modern chemical analysis of the pieces of steel, there was a much higher variability, and a good argument to err somewhat on the safe side. Swords also broke in combat, but it just goes to say, the line to walk for prefect balance is narrow at best, and with a thing as long as a sword and subjected to the forces a sword blade is, one had to be careful not to overdo the hardness.
@@lutzderlurch7877 no i saw studies, on earlier swords (before the proto industrial revolution of the mid 14th century), the steel was rarely even tempered, parts of the blade were wrought iron, and a few centimeters later there would be a patch of tool steel. Average hardness in the 13th century would be around 25 rockwell. And i say average beacause every centimeters of the blades would have different hardnesses. Swords would rarely break on earlier periods, being more prone to bending, as was mentioned by Caesar for Celtic swords, Nordic tumbs found with bent swords, and just metallurgical analysis of the found exemples. So yeah, i'm pretty confident when i say swords were usually pretty damn soft, with harder spots, but it was a nonsense to have a hard sword, beacause a blade doesn't need to be very hard to perform well, contrary to what people say today (and once again i'm a bladesmith, i make swords, tools, whatever, and i have experience working with bronze, and while they need frequent honing, just like a poor quality modern steel blade, they will do what you want them to. I've chopped a deer into pieces for a hunter with a mild steel falchion that was 2mm thick near the optimal striking point, and the edge didn't take a dent even trough the spine and bones).
I had a teeny piece of a hammer head go about 3/16 of an inch into my hand. I'll never forget how "hot" it felt for a few seconds but all I could do was wait for it to cool. Bled like a stuck pig too.
Yes, i have had this happen to me as well. Had a piece fly off and hit my arm and let a decent cut. I literally forgot about it till reading your comment otherwise I would have mentioned it.
@@SpikaLim if it had said 4,7mm in the comment I wouldn't have to read it three times before understanding what it was about. 3/16 of an inch could be the same as from Nordkapp to Lindesnes for what I get of it.
I’m a mechanic who also does welding and fabrication work.. Makes complete sense to me.. The hotter you get the piece you’re welding or bending will lead to breaking more easily and being brittle. Great stuff man!
Dude, I really really appreciate the hell out of your videos, thank you for the information, I have learned more from your videos than all the other knife guys combined, and you always put the information in verbiage that's easy to understand, thanks again and keep up the good work! 🤘
Same here dude.. I literally learned and studied to be a better sharpener because of this man and now I can put awesome edges on my blades, freehand. I really appreciate you brother !
I love the new series of hardness and tensility tests! I have broken knives and I have stood nearby when others broke knives. Absolutely nobody ever does it in a vise! A buddy of mine broke the tip off my knife while trying to pry open the back-cab window of his pickup, for example. I have never heard of anybody getting injured by fragments. I think it is fair to say that, every time I ever witnessed a knife breaking, it was being twisted or used as a side-to-side lever, not an up-and-down or forward-and-backward lever as demonstrated in this video (between the vise and the wrench). I would be interested to see what the high-speed camera picks up in those instances.
Value here, in my view. Relevant (and of value) to knife breakage for sure. Of course, also makes me think about the sharpened edge apex and potential for chipping; my guess is the findings will be similar and this video also holds value toward that supposition. Just me. Thanks for your good work.
love the videos. As far as I know a big part of why knife makers don't run their production knives at high hardness is ease of machinability. If a blade if heat treated too high it is much harder to sharpen and past a certain point it isn't going to make sense for a mass produced knife to push the hardness.
i think it depends on so many things,but if you look at kukris that are made the most primitive way i know of still this day,5160 steel superthick with convex edge grinded by hand with an angelgrinder and heat treated by eye with differential treatment edge is harder then back,and they dont really break despite rough use and only a stick tang,the way it got to that was trial and error and if the knife didnt work you didnt get paid and couldnt eat dinner or provide for your family it was very real and instant feedback,today a factory draws something up chunks it out in templates and churn out as many as possible and if they fail to much they just end the production of that model and come out ahead anyway and just start over with the next model and with another steel.esee is the only ones i know that actually have a no questions asked warranty and they dont change models and steels every few months,instead they evolve it and try to get it right.i think its more then one thing that makes a knife or any tool to be sturdy and it takes trial and error to get to it and most companies dont do that anymore because times have changed and some suit investor only cares about return of investment and only care about brand if it has a economic bad impact..or you just sell the company.
Sometimes you may want to have softer steel. Victorianox uses soft steel purposefully to make it easier to sharpen. Its increadible easy to sharpen in a short amount of time instead of needing a special diamond file or something. Also like a razor blade, having a little bit of flex helps a thin knife in many ways.
Thank you for this informative video! I understand the point you were trying to make. I typically only use my blades for cutting tasks. I like SAK knives for this. I heard that the other tools on a SAK are tempered lower than the blades for example the large cap lifter and screw driver they recommend for light prying tasks. I typically don't carry a knife with that feature. I carry a single bladed number 1. Since retiring I'm usually always close to the proper tool for the job. I bought a small tinker I really like, but love the Alox handles on my number 1. Everyone is different and needs to find what works for them and their personal use. Thanks again for doing the video! Jeff
To be fair, your everyday wear and tear is breaking knives on UA-cam. Lol just having fun with you buddy. I love what you do and always get excited when I see a new video pop up from you. Your channel has helped me understand the process of knife making more than any other as I am a visual learner. Still haven't had the opportunity to make my own knife yet but I hope to one day.
That is awesome! When I was starting out making knives (1995?) I broke a piece of M2 in a vise (ran out of cutting disks/patience). The fragments broke through the window 3 feet away and I found them up the hill. I still like M2 and hard knives... but I like softer blades too!
It is crazy the amount of time and effort you put into your videos and tests! I love it and thank you! I have learned a lot from you. I do have a knife making tip for you which I will try to find the appropriate video to share it in.
Was driving D9 caterpillar track pins out in the 90s when a piece the size of a 22 bullet spaulded and went across a 80' foot shop , into a mechanics chin , along his jawbone and lodged adjacent to his juglar , all while knocking him completely out !! Scary stuff ! Preciate ya Sir .
I don't know if you ever covered it in a video, but speaking of flying steel: the most dangerous tool in the knife shop is probably the buffing machine. It'll snatch the whole knife out of your hand and throw it into the nearest solid object faster than you can blink. One moment, you're buffing the workpiece, and the next, you're standing there empty-handed going ooh, I hope that didn't hit anything I needed, such as my body
Hi Alex, I remember you having a video on breaking knives a while back. This video provided lots of information on what happens when a knife breaks or any harden metal that breaks.
Very cool video. Yes I broke the tip off an 1981 uncle henry equivalent of the ranch boss, prying with it. My first real knife and I was 14. I have not done stupid stuff with my knives since then. Hey live and learn.
Chapeau, a good choice of interesting subject. The higher the degree of hardness the blade will not be flexible, and it will be more prone to breakage and its maintenance will be more challenging both in the sharpening means required and in the technical challenge in sharpening it.
Excellent topic to bring to the attention of all who actually do work & make things. The average person has no idea how easy it is to get hurt & possibly permanently lose an eye or sever an artery without adequate protection.
well I totally have never broken a knife tip (8cr13mov) by using it as a screwdriver... no sir. I totally haven't. what I mean is, yes, this is very relevant science.
As a product developer, engineer/inventor, I think it is more complex than warranty vs safety. While those are certainly important considerations, they are far from the only ones, and not even the top consideration for me, even though my products have a lifetime warranty. For my designs, the most important consideration is the “best tool for the job”. A knife with the best possible edge retention is not the best knife, but is actually a poor one. If you maximize one attribute at the expense of others, it is a poor design, outside of very specialized applications. General durability (as opposed to just the edge) is very important in tools, knives included, and not just for safety, or for warranty, but continued use. As a general rule, the harder a steel is, the less tough it will be, and almost all untempered or “maximum hardness” steel is very brittle, easy to break. You can resharpen, or even straighten a softer blade, but you cannot just weld a too hard blade back together. All of this is much, much more true when considering certain fields where that tool may be important in a life and death scenario. My field is defense, and defensive tools/blades must never break. A survival blade would need the same attributes. Thank you so much for these tests, they are massively appreciated, and I understand how intensive product testing can be. Cheers 🤙
I agree "best tool for the job". I personally dont think the general public thinks that way though. I think as makers we over analyze every detail. Maybe those details make a difference, maybe they don't. This was just a simple look a one aspect to see if there's more to the story. Thanks for the comment 👍
@@OUTDOORS55 Totally. Wasn’t meant as a criticism, but as I start the comment, from the makers perspective. Really love what you are doing, and excited to see where it goes!
Yep! Though there's tempted martensite embrittlement that means you get a softer but more brittle steel after a certain heat, like 450-550f depending on the steel. Some might over-soften knives to that point, when you get 1095 at like 57 HRC, plus not having that be from retained austenite from overheating or such. Less heat for austenitize could get softer out of the quench for softer tempered without sacrificing toughness though.
A video promoting journeymen knives, their test is important, bend to 90° angle without breaking, hard blade with a spine that won’t shatter so chop through two 2x4’s, single pass rope cut, and still shave hair, then bend to 90° without breaking…nice vid
Great video and test! Makes sense, lower HRC steel takes more pressure to break but when it does finally break, all that energy has to go somewhere. Versus the 65 HRC that takes much less pressure to break and in turn much less energy but it also appeared to break cleaner along with much smaller projectile pieces, definitely still dangerous to something like an eye though. This video made me wonder how a steel like 1084 with no temper will act compared to a stainless steel with no temper. Really enjoying the content and I appreciate the time and resources put into making it!
I think it very much depends on the steel and the type of knife. With a hard use knife (like a chopper etc), one ideally would want a tough steel that bends under failure instead of it shattering. But then you have steels like M390/20CV that are not designed to be "tough" at all but have good edge retention, and the performance really shines between 62-63hrc. But still. After being on the market for so many years, companies still run M390 at 60hrc (sometimes even lower) to "increase" toughness. That to me makes no sense. Taking a steel that is not designed to be tough, heat treat it lower to make it "tough". While in reality the companies would rather save money on grinding belts instead of heat treating it at a proper hardness. They will charge us the premium price but not go the extra step to do the work we pay extra for as a customer. More transparency from some companies would be great, or just use a different steel than M390 /20CV if they can't deliver the HRC and heat treatment certain steels need to gain the performance and attributes of said steels. If a company took ZDP-189 and made it at 60hrc, it would leave some people scratching their heads.
Knife companies don't give a shit about our safety of broken knives, maybe the warranty claim thing. But the real and only reason for soft steel from these companies is $$$$$$ that's it, it's cheaper to cut, grind, and finish softer steel period.
Great video sir...very interesting and practical, for me as a hobby knife maker. Thank you sir. Too hard a Rockwell hardness is just too "hard" to sharpen and much too "hard" when it comes time to reprofile the edge after years of use...there's a reason that the companies give us 57-59 Rockwell, it works. Thanks again.
Yeah, still 100% convinced its warranty related. The companies with the best warranties seem to be the ones who run their steel softer more often than not. Having not ever heard of a knife maker being sued for someone getting hurt when the S90V blade they were batoning exploded in their face I can't imagine they're as concerned with our safety as they are their bottom line.
Sounds like potato potato to me in this case. User safety and their bottom line are 100% one and the same here (your knives break and you get sued = bad, loss of money -> that happens often = bad, loss of prestige, loss of buyers, lower prices; profit bleed, and that is assuming regulatory bodies not involving themselves either). To think of the bottom line is to think of user safety, and thinking of user safety directly reduces risks to the bottom line. It is functionally indistinguishable.
@@louisvictor3473 When has a knife maker been sued for a knife breaking? As shown in the video, even the harder heat treat is incredibly hard to break. To snap a blade you gotta be doing something outside a knife's intended use. Be pretty dang hard to sue in that case.
@@arrowheadguys7637 1. The test showed a flat piece of steel of uniform thickness and a substantial one takes effort to break. Knives are not shaped like that, in case you never held one. All the different designs and even base thicknesses, how, where and how easily it would break. 2. Not relevant anyway, and if anything it would defeat your point if it were relevant, did you read you read what you even wrote just now? 3. Pretty clear you didn't even actually read what I said, let alone not miss the point, you just have an idea, no, just a wording of an idea in your head and you're gonna stick to it and assume it is "the truth(tm)" no matter what, so... have a good time.
@@arrowheadguys7637 That is a whole lot of missing the point, ignoring that quest is literally against your point no matter the answer, and yes, tripling down on asking an irrelevant question instead of supporting you mental diarrhea you delude yourself is a point.
Safety glasses are good.I snapped a hss drillbit about 3/16 diameter. Two inches of bit hit the lens, snapped end on, in the center of the glasses lens. It was moving fast enough that it went on to bounce off the floor before I even blinked. The lens was just a little scuffed...right in front of the pupil of my eye.
Great video! I always wondered why more knife manufacturers didn't want to achieve the highest hrc possible and this video really showed why. Btw, your sharpening videos are the reason I was able to learn how to correctly sharpen a knife to the desired sharpness I wanted. I struggled for years to sharpen my pocket knives and now I find myself sitting in the garage at night, drinking beer and sharpening knives. Thanks for all your great info!
I'm glad your back too making content i always find that your video content is helpful and always interesting. One thing I wish you would do I just every once in awhile is throw a knife review in there just too mix it up because I know myself i always liked the ones you did in the past like the Spyderco endura tenacious and so on. Anyways glad too see your back Android good luck with future endeavors
Glad you're back making more videos. I love all the new tech you're bringing to the channel. Hey, can you make more knives again? Like, make a weird design that's also functional and super sharp. Maybe some of that neat heat treating so it has cool coloration?
great content- bluntcut on BF does some good knife testing on various at crazy rockwells ,so my hats off to all you knife knerds who are always pushing the boundaries
I dropped a J. A. Henkel's International 8" carving knife on a tile floor about 20 years ago. The blade snapped in 2 places; at approximately 1/3 and 2/3 of the blade length.
Every body got their pantys in a bunch with the metric or inch measuring systems. Yes I can understand the metric system, but I've personally used the American system for over 75 years and damn well plan to continue to use it for as long as I have left.. SO THERE.
My father worked as a mechanic for a long time and I've watched him cut bearing races off of axle shafts using a sharp cold chisel and a big hammer. And occasionally he would get small sharp pieces embedded in his skin. In terms of knives if you have a knife that yields slightly at high stress vs. fracturing, the user can see that they are pushing the knife too much and they will stop before going further. If the knife continues up the stress/strain curve to its fracture point the user does not have any indication of how close they are to failure. I will suggest another factor for consideration in your tests and that is stress concentrations at notches. Breaking a smooth flat bar you have no stress concentrations, you are using the entire width of the piece under uniform flexural stress. But knives have various notches- gimping, notches for locking mechanisms, holes for thumb opening and thumb studs, sharpening notches, choils, etc. You will get a higher stress concentration at these irregularities that will cause the blade to break before reaching its full fracture strength. I've seen plenty of blades broken through irregularities like this, likely at lower values of force than it would have taken without the irregularity. Test some samples with irregularities and see how the strength varies at different hardness values.
The aspect of danger as it relates to metal failure at different hardness values is interesting in and of itself I think. In the context of a knife, I think your conclusion is absolutely correct taking into account the average user. But what if we remove the human element altogether? If both soft and hard metals are to break, which is the most dangerous one? How dangerous it is depends on so many things. For instance if you assume that the same force is used to break a piece that will split in three compared to a split that will break into 30 smaller pieces, then the smaller pieces would be preferable, since each piece represents a smaller part of that original energy. Then there's the contact area to take into account. A bigger piece will be much less dangerous if it hits you flat and not on a corner, while smaller pieces are by nature pretty much pointy everywhere. Then what about the direction? If the big piece flies away, it can only go in one specific way. You'd be more unlucky than lucky if it were to be in your direction. Meanwhile the smaller pieces will likely go in many direction, making you more likely to get hit by one than you would getting hit by one big piece. You can already see how these 3 problems compound each other, and every variable we add makes the problem a bit more muddy, since so much depends on chance. It would be great to know how much energy these little pieces were carrying along compared to the big ones. All we'd need in addition to the speed is the weight, if you can find them afterwards hahaha.
Thank you another great action video with super explanation and presentation. I watched this video last night really very interesting and informative, as always you put a lot effort and thought into your videos and it shows. It is fantastic to see you back on UA-cam, I have just completed one your leather strops, I had made one of yours a few years ago and after watching the video again, I realised that I had been using the wrong polishing compound and my technique was not great anyway the, new strop seems to be working well and thanks to your video my technique is progressing. Thanks again Take care Sam
I enjoyed the video very informative, you should try to differentiate temper the pieces drawing all hardness out of one side, that’s what the custom knife makers do and when they present their first knife to get their apprentice level , I believe, it has to function then they have to bend it to 90degrees then straighten it and then it still has to be sharp and function still
I'll take the right steel, geometry and heat treatment for the specified task. Ie m390 at 64hrc with thin geometry with the proper protocol for slicing. Ill take 1095 and chopping geometry with 57hrc for chopping. This is what manufacturers need to realize. Instead they don't do this. They screw the end user over and give you burnt edge low hrc junk and any popular steel to make sales.
thank you. That is what I've been saying and I get ALOT of hate on other knifebros UA-cam channels. I got into a debate about hinderer knives and how the secondary price market for them is unwarranted because the materials are not special in anyway and they aren't THAT good,the heat treats are just ok, nothing special, same goes for fit and finish. And everyone jumped on me when I said that.
My thoughts exactly. I only use pocket knives for slicing and I do not abuse them for prying. I carried Kershaw Leeks for over a decade with never a broken tip or anything as I only used the knife as intended and still only use my pocket knives in that manner. I tried buying many Kershaw knives with super steels and had a M390 Link tested that showed 57 HRC. I returned the knife back to Amazon and was done with Kershaw as a brand from then on. I was brand loyal until that day. I heard that Spyderco does a better job with heat treats than most, so I have moved on to that brand for now at least. I would love to see a list of which pocket knife manufacturers do a good job of heat treating their high end steels properly and which don't.
THIS. This was a really good video. It may be way too expensive, but I'd love to see this done with some actual knives, even just a bunch of cheap ones.
Damn good video, please be careful and if you are out of a job, try being a comedian...a lot of the things you say and do are funny as hell. Stay safe and.......I'll see you in the next video.
You got extremely scientific for all those scientists in the comments but I like the conclusion you came to in the end. Hell of a good video you made sir
@@OUTDOORS55 it was great. I liked seeing the amount of leverage you had on them to make them all break. It makes me feel more comfortable about what I've been making. Axes
It would be so interesting to see the force required to snap each of these, if you had to swap breaker bars there has to be a significant difference between them
So Watching this shows me not to ever try this at allllllllll.fantastic video New sub thanks for all your hard work.I thought at first you were grabbing the wrench with your hands thanks for showing it's not that easy to break.Well here we go watching 100 New vids.
Are you able to do this same test with Magnacut? If not, totally understand. I'd be very interested to see how it compares to regular carbon steels like you used. Thank you for what you do!
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Absolute MUST READ ⬇ (Book referenced in video)
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This is not an insult it’s a compliment - u bring a layman approach to knife making but an honest one … u definitely have gotten a good number of views on past videos - b nice to see u make more videos like this one ?
I dont have to read this
Alex, I just got a reply to one of my comments on this. Ideo from the s Amber's trying to look like your account saying I won something. This scam has been rolling through UA-cam the last few months. Just thought you might want to know.
@@jeffallen3382 I got the same kind of reply representing to be Alex saying I won a Benchmade mini Crooked River. When they asked for a shipping fee ($60) I stopped texting.
Just got another one trying to scam reply me Alex.
Interesting side note; in the 1970's a piece of hardened high carbon steel jackhammer bit spaulded off & was going just fast enough to hit me inside the elbow of my left arm & enter the basilic vein ( the largest vein in the arm ) but not through it. By the time that I got to the local hospital emergency room & got an initial X-ray, the steel had migrated up into my shoulder. A few minutes later the next X-ray showed the steel bouncing around inside the right atrium of my heart, which is the path that cyanotic blood takes when it is eventually returning to the lungs to drop the carbon dioxide molecule & pick up another oxygen molecule. After having to lay flat on my back for 3 days in ICU to ensure that the steel attached itself to the atrial wall, instead of exiting the heart & lodging in the small venules of the lung & forming a clot which would have to be removed by surgery, a catheterization of the vein in the other arm was performed to attempt to remove the steel. After 4 hours of being strapped on a fluoroscope table, so the surgeon could rotate my body between two axes to see where his catheter was located, he failed to remove that foreign object. I'm 72 years old now & still carry around that piece of shrapnel in my atrium. This story is just a reinforcement of your warning to always wear personal protective equipment when you're working in a potentially hazardous environment, because you never know when a freak event might happen!
Whoa!!! That's crazy! Ive come to the conclusion that hardened steel is not to be messed with in in appropriate ways. I had a piece of a hammer break off and cut my arm. I completely forgot about it until i read another comment where the same thing happened. Your story is scary though! Who would have thought.
That's both terrifying and amazing. I wonder if that piece of high carbon steel has rusted itself to bits after the 40 or 50 years it's been in there.
Dude is hard as hell, takes his iron pill straight to the veins.
@@joshstarkey8883 that's a good point but (just a guess) I imagine it's not really able to rust as there's little to no free oxygen in the blood.. like it's all within red blood cells
@@bourbonated 😂 😂🤣😂🤣☺️
I just want to mention that the piece you broke at 10:15 in the video was probably one of the most (if not the most) powerful ones until that point. Even though it only "flew at 6mph", the energy was dumped into opening the jaws. Those things are not easy to open, and they were opened halfway in less than a second. Brutal...
I thought that was weird as well. Not sure how that happened lol. Somehow all the energy ended up opening the wrench 🙂
Is this becoming the “project farm” of the knife world?
Cool video!
This is why they tell you to be careful not to drop your straight razor onto a hard surface ( such as a ceramic sink or floor.. not to mention if it misses the floor it will probably cut off a toe..) the razor is tempered to such a high degree that the metal is actually brittle. They will break, don’t ask me how I know..lol! Thanks for the video,always entertaining and informative. Cheers from Nova Scotia. M.
Yeah, I've got that t-shirt too ☹️
Nor should you try and catch it XD
Lots of years ago, an impact wobbly exploded on me at work one day. Knocked my safety glasses across the bay and gave me a gnarly black eye and a little cut on my cheek. A couple of years later I had a little magnetic pointer and noticed my little scar from that jumped out to stick to it. Wife kinda put her for down and made me go to the doc. Turned out I had been carrying a little chunk of that adapter in my cheek all that time. She insisted I have it removed and I still have it in a little jar in the top of my tool box next to my safety glasses.
I do sword fighting and we once had a blade break. Found the pieces stuck in a tree and we were terrified since checking every blade before use. Pretty much reflects your results
I always say "you can use a blade that's too soft, but you can't use a blade that's too hard"
@@jeanladoire4141 Aye. you can keep fighting with a blade that has a kink in it, but one thatcroke off....not so much.
@@lutzderlurch7877 yeah, blades were pretty fuckin soft (close to untempered mild steel) for most of history.
@@jeanladoire4141 Not sure I'd go that far. it is surprising, how much was possible, genrally speaking pretty early on already, and what was actually done, as well. But without electric controlled thermometers and furnaces, modern chemical analysis of the pieces of steel, there was a much higher variability, and a good argument to err somewhat on the safe side. Swords also broke in combat, but it just goes to say, the line to walk for prefect balance is narrow at best, and with a thing as long as a sword and subjected to the forces a sword blade is, one had to be careful not to overdo the hardness.
@@lutzderlurch7877 no i saw studies, on earlier swords (before the proto industrial revolution of the mid 14th century), the steel was rarely even tempered, parts of the blade were wrought iron, and a few centimeters later there would be a patch of tool steel. Average hardness in the 13th century would be around 25 rockwell. And i say average beacause every centimeters of the blades would have different hardnesses. Swords would rarely break on earlier periods, being more prone to bending, as was mentioned by Caesar for Celtic swords, Nordic tumbs found with bent swords, and just metallurgical analysis of the found exemples. So yeah, i'm pretty confident when i say swords were usually pretty damn soft, with harder spots, but it was a nonsense to have a hard sword, beacause a blade doesn't need to be very hard to perform well, contrary to what people say today (and once again i'm a bladesmith, i make swords, tools, whatever, and i have experience working with bronze, and while they need frequent honing, just like a poor quality modern steel blade, they will do what you want them to. I've chopped a deer into pieces for a hunter with a mild steel falchion that was 2mm thick near the optimal striking point, and the edge didn't take a dent even trough the spine and bones).
I had a teeny piece of a hammer head go about 3/16 of an inch into my hand. I'll never forget how "hot" it felt for a few seconds but all I could do was wait for it to cool. Bled like a stuck pig too.
Yes, i have had this happen to me as well. Had a piece fly off and hit my arm and let a decent cut. I literally forgot about it till reading your comment otherwise I would have mentioned it.
That’s 4.7 millimeters for those who want to know.
@@SpikaLim if it had said 4,7mm in the comment I wouldn't have to read it three times before understanding what it was about. 3/16 of an inch could be the same as from Nordkapp to Lindesnes for what I get of it.
@@OUTDOORS55 I saw that happen to my buddy. A piece of ballpeen hammer went into his finger. It bled alot had to go to the doctor to have it removed
I know a guy that had a piece of sledgehammer head go all of the way to his lung! It can kill if it hits just right!
I’m a mechanic who also does welding and fabrication work.. Makes complete sense to me.. The hotter you get the piece you’re welding or bending will lead to breaking more easily and being brittle. Great stuff man!
Dude, I really really appreciate the hell out of your videos, thank you for the information, I have learned more from your videos than all the other knife guys combined, and you always put the information in verbiage that's easy to understand, thanks again and keep up the good work! 🤘
Same here dude.. I literally learned and studied to be a better sharpener because of this man and now I can put awesome edges on my blades, freehand. I really appreciate you brother !
I love the new series of hardness and tensility tests! I have broken knives and I have stood nearby when others broke knives. Absolutely nobody ever does it in a vise! A buddy of mine broke the tip off my knife while trying to pry open the back-cab window of his pickup, for example. I have never heard of anybody getting injured by fragments. I think it is fair to say that, every time I ever witnessed a knife breaking, it was being twisted or used as a side-to-side lever, not an up-and-down or forward-and-backward lever as demonstrated in this video (between the vise and the wrench). I would be interested to see what the high-speed camera picks up in those instances.
I once had a knife shatter while whittling, it was an extremely brittle Ozark trail brand fixed blade.
My goal was to just see what hardened steel does when it breaks. I might test more realistic scenarios 🙂👍
Just imagine that the tip is the thing in the vise. Fixed.
Good to see u back on here - hope to see more videos
Loved this video man, actually really helped me understand the process of heat treating and how it's results are discussed and applied
don't forget you go through more sanding belts on harder knives compared to softer ones when grinding
Where else would we be able to learn these kinda things if Alex wasn't Sciencing The Sh!t Outta Stuff on our behalf? 🤔
Great work Bud 😁👍
It's amazing to see the broken bits are orange hot. Pretty impressive. Thanks for sharing 👍.
Value here, in my view. Relevant (and of value) to knife breakage for sure. Of course, also makes me think about the sharpened edge apex and potential for chipping; my guess is the findings will be similar and this video also holds value toward that supposition. Just me. Thanks for your good work.
Just got home for the weekend and see you’ve uploaded today.. a great start to the weekend
I have always loved the mix of great knowledge, production quality, and your sense of humor in all your videos. Keep up the great work!
Thank-you for doing this, it looked like a lot of work.
love the videos. As far as I know a big part of why knife makers don't run their production knives at high hardness is ease of machinability. If a blade if heat treated too high it is much harder to sharpen and past a certain point it isn't going to make sense for a mass produced knife to push the hardness.
Really glad to have you back brother. I missed all of the shenans.
i think it depends on so many things,but if you look at kukris that are made the most primitive way i know of still this day,5160 steel superthick with convex edge grinded by hand with an angelgrinder and heat treated by eye with differential treatment edge is harder then back,and they dont really break despite rough use and only a stick tang,the way it got to that was trial and error and if the knife didnt work you didnt get paid and couldnt eat dinner or provide for your family it was very real and instant feedback,today a factory draws something up chunks it out in templates and churn out as many as possible and if they fail to much they just end the production of that model and come out ahead anyway and just start over with the next model and with another steel.esee is the only ones i know that actually have a no questions asked warranty and they dont change models and steels every few months,instead they evolve it and try to get it right.i think its more then one thing that makes a knife or any tool to be sturdy and it takes trial and error to get to it and most companies dont do that anymore because times have changed and some suit investor only cares about return of investment and only care about brand if it has a economic bad impact..or you just sell the company.
Sometimes you may want to have softer steel. Victorianox uses soft steel purposefully to make it easier to sharpen. Its increadible easy to sharpen in a short amount of time instead of needing a special diamond file or something. Also like a razor blade, having a little bit of flex helps a thin knife in many ways.
The effort put into this video is awesome
Thank you for this informative video! I understand the point you were trying to make. I typically only use my blades for cutting tasks. I like SAK knives for this. I heard that the other tools on a SAK are tempered lower than the blades for example the large cap lifter and screw driver they recommend for light prying tasks. I typically don't carry a knife with that feature. I carry a single bladed number 1. Since retiring I'm usually always close to the proper tool for the job. I bought a small tinker I really like, but love the Alox handles on my number 1. Everyone is different and needs to find what works for them and their personal use. Thanks again for doing the video! Jeff
Lots of juicy information and fun footage!
To be fair, your everyday wear and tear is breaking knives on UA-cam.
Lol just having fun with you buddy. I love what you do and always get excited when I see a new video pop up from you. Your channel has helped me understand the process of knife making more than any other as I am a visual learner. Still haven't had the opportunity to make my own knife yet but I hope to one day.
Lol I know😂🤦♂️ 👍 Thanks for comment, really appreciate it!
You remind me of the guy on Project Farm , very thorough !
That is awesome! When I was starting out making knives (1995?) I broke a piece of M2 in a vise (ran out of cutting disks/patience). The fragments broke through the window 3 feet away and I found them up the hill.
I still like M2 and hard knives... but I like softer blades too!
Glad to see you putting out videos. We miss ya!
It is crazy the amount of time and effort you put into your videos and tests! I love it and thank you! I have learned a lot from you. I do have a knife making tip for you which I will try to find the appropriate video to share it in.
Was driving D9 caterpillar track pins out in the 90s when a piece the size of a 22 bullet spaulded and went across a 80' foot shop , into a mechanics chin , along his jawbone and lodged adjacent to his juglar , all while knocking him completely out !! Scary stuff ! Preciate ya Sir .
I don't know if you ever covered it in a video, but speaking of flying steel: the most dangerous tool in the knife shop is probably the buffing machine. It'll snatch the whole knife out of your hand and throw it into the nearest solid object faster than you can blink. One moment, you're buffing the workpiece, and the next, you're standing there empty-handed going ooh, I hope that didn't hit anything I needed, such as my body
Hi Alex, I remember you having a video on breaking knives a while back. This video provided lots of information on what happens when a knife breaks or any harden metal that breaks.
Very cool video. Yes I broke the tip off an 1981 uncle henry equivalent of the ranch boss, prying with it. My first real knife and I was 14. I have not done stupid stuff with my knives since then. Hey live and learn.
Great video! Last week I was using a file as a lever. It broke and a piece came flying to my face.
Chapeau, a good choice of interesting subject.
The higher the degree of hardness the blade will not be flexible, and it will be more prone to breakage and its maintenance will be more challenging both in the sharpening means required and in the technical challenge in sharpening it.
Great video, subject, and testing, thank you!
Great experiment. Glad you are back with videos, it was boring without them.
Cannot thank you enough for this video! In so many ways!
Excellent topic to bring to the attention of all who actually do work & make things. The average person has no idea how easy it is to get hurt & possibly permanently lose an eye or sever an artery without adequate protection.
It's crazy how many stories there are of this actually happening with hardened steel tools.
well I totally have never broken a knife tip (8cr13mov) by using it as a screwdriver... no sir. I totally haven't.
what I mean is, yes, this is very relevant science.
Man I really digged those two last videos. Your channel has come far! Love the curious approach! Greetings from Vienna!
Great video. Answered questions running through my mind for a long time.
As a product developer, engineer/inventor, I think it is more complex than warranty vs safety. While those are certainly important considerations, they are far from the only ones, and not even the top consideration for me, even though my products have a lifetime warranty.
For my designs, the most important consideration is the “best tool for the job”. A knife with the best possible edge retention is not the best knife, but is actually a poor one. If you maximize one attribute at the expense of others, it is a poor design, outside of very specialized applications.
General durability (as opposed to just the edge) is very important in tools, knives included, and not just for safety, or for warranty, but continued use.
As a general rule, the harder a steel is, the less tough it will be, and almost all untempered or “maximum hardness” steel is very brittle, easy to break. You can resharpen, or even straighten a softer blade, but you cannot just weld a too hard blade back together.
All of this is much, much more true when considering certain fields where that tool may be important in a life and death scenario. My field is defense, and defensive tools/blades must never break. A survival blade would need the same attributes.
Thank you so much for these tests, they are massively appreciated, and I understand how intensive product testing can be. Cheers 🤙
Thanks for the comment, found it interesting
I agree "best tool for the job". I personally dont think the general public thinks that way though. I think as makers we over analyze every detail. Maybe those details make a difference, maybe they don't. This was just a simple look a one aspect to see if there's more to the story. Thanks for the comment 👍
@@OUTDOORS55 Totally. Wasn’t meant as a criticism, but as I start the comment, from the makers perspective. Really love what you are doing, and excited to see where it goes!
@@heni63 haha thanks for reading my essay! Just saw how long it is 😂
Yep! Though there's tempted martensite embrittlement that means you get a softer but more brittle steel after a certain heat, like 450-550f depending on the steel.
Some might over-soften knives to that point, when you get 1095 at like 57 HRC, plus not having that be from retained austenite from overheating or such. Less heat for austenitize could get softer out of the quench for softer tempered without sacrificing toughness though.
A video promoting journeymen knives, their test is important, bend to 90° angle without breaking, hard blade with a spine that won’t shatter so chop through two 2x4’s, single pass rope cut, and still shave hair, then bend to 90° without breaking…nice vid
Dude your videos are always great. I was worried for a while there that you quit but its good to see you back
Great video and test! Makes sense, lower HRC steel takes more pressure to break but when it does finally break, all that energy has to go somewhere. Versus the 65 HRC that takes much less pressure to break and in turn much less energy but it also appeared to break cleaner along with much smaller projectile pieces, definitely still dangerous to something like an eye though. This video made me wonder how a steel like 1084 with no temper will act compared to a stainless steel with no temper. Really enjoying the content and I appreciate the time and resources put into making it!
Lots of hard work! Much Appreciated!
Nice to see what happens when I test a knife sometimes I don't find the pieces
Absolutely fascinating and very informative video. Top job. Love your videos...
I think it very much depends on the steel and the type of knife. With a hard use knife (like a chopper etc), one ideally would want a tough steel that bends under failure instead of it shattering. But then you have steels like M390/20CV that are not designed to be "tough" at all but have good edge retention, and the performance really shines between 62-63hrc. But still. After being on the market for so many years, companies still run M390 at 60hrc (sometimes even lower) to "increase" toughness. That to me makes no sense. Taking a steel that is not designed to be tough, heat treat it lower to make it "tough". While in reality the companies would rather save money on grinding belts instead of heat treating it at a proper hardness. They will charge us the premium price but not go the extra step to do the work we pay extra for as a customer. More transparency from some companies would be great, or just use a different steel than M390 /20CV if they can't deliver the HRC and heat treatment certain steels need to gain the performance and attributes of said steels. If a company took ZDP-189 and made it at 60hrc, it would leave some people scratching their heads.
Knife companies don't give a shit about our safety of broken knives, maybe the warranty claim thing. But the real and only reason for soft steel from these companies is $$$$$$ that's it, it's cheaper to cut, grind, and finish softer steel period.
I would disagree...Lawyers and insurance companies ask some interesting questions, and make you do really bazaar stuff when you start a knife company.
That's a great idea. It will only take the correct distance between the mechanism and the wrench to get a clear result👍👍👍👍
Great video.
Shattered all expectations.
Great video sir...very interesting and practical, for me as a hobby knife maker. Thank you sir.
Too hard a Rockwell hardness is just too "hard" to sharpen and much too "hard" when it comes time to reprofile the edge after years of use...there's a reason that the companies give us 57-59 Rockwell, it works. Thanks again.
Yeah, still 100% convinced its warranty related. The companies with the best warranties seem to be the ones who run their steel softer more often than not. Having not ever heard of a knife maker being sued for someone getting hurt when the S90V blade they were batoning exploded in their face I can't imagine they're as concerned with our safety as they are their bottom line.
Sounds like potato potato to me in this case. User safety and their bottom line are 100% one and the same here (your knives break and you get sued = bad, loss of money -> that happens often = bad, loss of prestige, loss of buyers, lower prices; profit bleed, and that is assuming regulatory bodies not involving themselves either). To think of the bottom line is to think of user safety, and thinking of user safety directly reduces risks to the bottom line. It is functionally indistinguishable.
@@louisvictor3473 When has a knife maker been sued for a knife breaking? As shown in the video, even the harder heat treat is incredibly hard to break. To snap a blade you gotta be doing something outside a knife's intended use. Be pretty dang hard to sue in that case.
@@arrowheadguys7637 1. The test showed a flat piece of steel of uniform thickness and a substantial one takes effort to break. Knives are not shaped like that, in case you never held one. All the different designs and even base thicknesses, how, where and how easily it would break. 2. Not relevant anyway, and if anything it would defeat your point if it were relevant, did you read you read what you even wrote just now? 3. Pretty clear you didn't even actually read what I said, let alone not miss the point, you just have an idea, no, just a wording of an idea in your head and you're gonna stick to it and assume it is "the truth(tm)" no matter what, so... have a good time.
@@louisvictor3473 Thats a whole lot of words to avoid answering the question of how many times a company has been sued for a knife breaking.
@@arrowheadguys7637 That is a whole lot of missing the point, ignoring that quest is literally against your point no matter the answer, and yes, tripling down on asking an irrelevant question instead of supporting you mental diarrhea you delude yourself is a point.
Safety glasses are good.I snapped a hss drillbit about 3/16 diameter. Two inches of bit hit the lens, snapped end on, in the center of the glasses lens. It was moving fast enough that it went on to bounce off the floor before I even blinked. The lens was just a little scuffed...right in front of the pupil of my eye.
Very informative! One of your best videos! I'm an intermediate knife maker and I learned a lot from this! Ty!
Great video! I always wondered why more knife manufacturers didn't want to achieve the highest hrc possible and this video really showed why.
Btw, your sharpening videos are the reason I was able to learn how to correctly sharpen a knife to the desired sharpness I wanted. I struggled for years to sharpen my pocket knives and now I find myself sitting in the garage at night, drinking beer and sharpening knives. Thanks for all your great info!
I'm glad your back too making content i always find that your video content is helpful and always interesting. One thing I wish you would do I just every once in awhile is throw a knife review in there just too mix it up because I know myself i always liked the ones you did in the past like the Spyderco endura tenacious and so on. Anyways glad too see your back Android good luck with future endeavors
Fascinating vid man, cheers for the time, expense and effort👍👍
Glad you're back making more videos. I love all the new tech you're bringing to the channel. Hey, can you make more knives again? Like, make a weird design that's also functional and super sharp. Maybe some of that neat heat treating so it has cool coloration?
great content- bluntcut on BF does some good knife testing on various at crazy rockwells ,so my hats off to all you knife knerds who are always pushing the boundaries
Solid, entertaining content. Articulate and humorous. Good to see ya!
Awesome video! Mad scientist with the experiments lol
I dropped a J. A. Henkel's International 8" carving knife on a tile floor about 20 years ago. The blade snapped in 2 places; at approximately 1/3 and 2/3 of the blade length.
What an amazing production - thanks a ton!
Every body got their pantys in a bunch with the metric or inch measuring systems. Yes I can understand the metric system, but I've personally used the American system for over 75 years and damn well plan to continue to use it for as long as I have left..
SO THERE.
Great informative video ! I appreciate your obsessive curiosity. It couldn't have been easy making, breaking and testing all those samples.
My father worked as a mechanic for a long time and I've watched him cut bearing races off of axle shafts using a sharp cold chisel and a big hammer. And occasionally he would get small sharp pieces embedded in his skin.
In terms of knives if you have a knife that yields slightly at high stress vs. fracturing, the user can see that they are pushing the knife too much and they will stop before going further. If the knife continues up the stress/strain curve to its fracture point the user does not have any indication of how close they are to failure.
I will suggest another factor for consideration in your tests and that is stress concentrations at notches. Breaking a smooth flat bar you have no stress concentrations, you are using the entire width of the piece under uniform flexural stress. But knives have various notches- gimping, notches for locking mechanisms, holes for thumb opening and thumb studs, sharpening notches, choils, etc. You will get a higher stress concentration at these irregularities that will cause the blade to break before reaching its full fracture strength. I've seen plenty of blades broken through irregularities like this, likely at lower values of force than it would have taken without the irregularity. Test some samples with irregularities and see how the strength varies at different hardness values.
Very nice video. I have definitely learned something.
This was great, very informative and your style is as always very entertaining 😀. Thanks for another great video.
me and my cheap china bad heat treat d2 blade cloned balisong did this, its amazing what a tip drop on tile can do.
The aspect of danger as it relates to metal failure at different hardness values is interesting in and of itself I think. In the context of a knife, I think your conclusion is absolutely correct taking into account the average user. But what if we remove the human element altogether? If both soft and hard metals are to break, which is the most dangerous one? How dangerous it is depends on so many things. For instance if you assume that the same force is used to break a piece that will split in three compared to a split that will break into 30 smaller pieces, then the smaller pieces would be preferable, since each piece represents a smaller part of that original energy. Then there's the contact area to take into account. A bigger piece will be much less dangerous if it hits you flat and not on a corner, while smaller pieces are by nature pretty much pointy everywhere. Then what about the direction? If the big piece flies away, it can only go in one specific way. You'd be more unlucky than lucky if it were to be in your direction. Meanwhile the smaller pieces will likely go in many direction, making you more likely to get hit by one than you would getting hit by one big piece. You can already see how these 3 problems compound each other, and every variable we add makes the problem a bit more muddy, since so much depends on chance.
It would be great to know how much energy these little pieces were carrying along compared to the big ones. All we'd need in addition to the speed is the weight, if you can find them afterwards hahaha.
Thanks for the video and for the book! Gonna make my own knife soon!
Good stuff. Would using some form of a torque wrench in the leveraging allow you to record force applied? Interesting video.
That is a brilliant idea. Would just need accurate spacing between the vice and wrench to get a clear result.
Thank you another great action video with super explanation and presentation. I watched this video last night really very interesting and informative, as always you put a lot effort and thought into your videos and it shows.
It is fantastic to see you back on UA-cam, I have just completed one your leather strops, I had made one of yours a few years ago and after watching the video again, I realised that I had been using the wrong polishing compound and my technique was not great anyway the, new strop seems to be working well and thanks to your video my technique is progressing.
Thanks again
Take care
Sam
awesome video. no idea why but it fired me up. HELL YEAH
I've always liked all of your videos Alex! Thank you!
I enjoyed the video very informative, you should try to differentiate temper the pieces drawing all hardness out of one side, that’s what the custom knife makers do and when they present their first knife to get their apprentice level , I believe, it has to function then they have to bend it to 90degrees then straighten it and then it still has to be sharp and function still
I'll take the right steel, geometry and heat treatment for the specified task. Ie m390 at 64hrc with thin geometry with the proper protocol for slicing. Ill take 1095 and chopping geometry with 57hrc for chopping. This is what manufacturers need to realize. Instead they don't do this. They screw the end user over and give you burnt edge low hrc junk and any popular steel to make sales.
thank you. That is what I've been saying and I get ALOT of hate on other knifebros UA-cam channels. I got into a debate about hinderer knives and how the secondary price market for them is unwarranted because the materials are not special in anyway and they aren't THAT good,the heat treats are just ok, nothing special, same goes for fit and finish. And everyone jumped on me when I said that.
My thoughts exactly. I only use pocket knives for slicing and I do not abuse them for prying. I carried Kershaw Leeks for over a decade with never a broken tip or anything as I only used the knife as intended and still only use my pocket knives in that manner. I tried buying many Kershaw knives with super steels and had a M390 Link tested that showed 57 HRC. I returned the knife back to Amazon and was done with Kershaw as a brand from then on. I was brand loyal until that day. I heard that Spyderco does a better job with heat treats than most, so I have moved on to that brand for now at least. I would love to see a list of which pocket knife manufacturers do a good job of heat treating their high end steels properly and which don't.
@@MisterDeets outpost76
@@tacticalcenter8658 Many thanks. Will check them out.
THIS. This was a really good video. It may be way too expensive, but I'd love to see this done with some actual knives, even just a bunch of cheap ones.
Damn good video, please be careful and if you are out of a job, try being a comedian...a lot of the things you say and do are funny as hell. Stay safe and.......I'll see you in the next video.
I love your scientific approach: "so.... let's break some stuff " :D
Great video on a great subject as always Alex 😎👍
You got extremely scientific for all those scientists in the comments but I like the conclusion you came to in the end. Hell of a good video you made sir
I didn't think it was that scientific, more bro science 😂👍 Thanks for the comment 👊
@@OUTDOORS55 it was great. I liked seeing the amount of leverage you had on them to make them all break. It makes me feel more comfortable about what I've been making. Axes
Great video mate such a detailed break down, thanks for taking the time... I only use 1084 👍
Nice video! Would have been cool to see those shards going into clay or maybe some ballistics gel! Keep up the good work!
Nice video! Would have been cool to see those shards going into clay or maybe some ballistic gel! Keep up the good work!
Nice video. I think I’ve broken the tip off most of my pocket knives, using them as a screw driver.
I may have done the same😬
The test aty about 8:05 - I think is was 375F 61 HRC - was that sparks forming? If so that was insane.
Great video! Thanks. Glad to see more content lately.
Superb! A very nice topic, very informative one! Cheers!
That was pretty interesting. I'm not sure I learned anything, except I will continue to not use my knives as crowbars. Still fun to watch, though.
It would be so interesting to see the force required to snap each of these, if you had to swap breaker bars there has to be a significant difference between them
I broke 2 gerber pocket knives. Minimal tension on tip. Broke 1/4” tips off. Trashed them and invested in good ones
So Watching this shows me not to ever try this at allllllllll.fantastic video New sub thanks for all your hard work.I thought at first you were grabbing the wrench with your hands thanks for showing it's not that easy to break.Well here we go watching 100 New vids.
Are you able to do this same test with Magnacut? If not, totally understand. I'd be very interested to see how it compares to regular carbon steels like you used.
Thank you for what you do!
I am not sure the steel type matters for this particular test as I am simply testing what happens when hardened steel breaks. 🙂👍
Good reviews sir. It's safe to say..I love mora knife & it's cousin.