Unless i was going to completely rebuild , I would measure the chain , but it fit the sprocket so may be ok . I would pull the valve and look at seat . if seat looks ok then look at guide , measure if can . If that looks good then get valve and lap in . I would also dress the piston where the valve hit , no sharp spots or raised spots . Unless you see something really wrong with valve stem when removing i think a valve will fix it .
Yep, last time I used mineral spirits, my recent engine, I was confident in my lap job and did not even check it with a leak test, I have never had a fresh lap fail, but...good to check also if you want.
I am actually going through the same process on a yamaha warrior. It was smoking so I pulled head replaced valve seals and was getting ready to lap the valves when I noticed my valve seat was trashed. I ended up getting a good used head put it back together and still burns oil. Next is fresh hone and new rings. As for yours I would just replace valve if seat Isent messed up and lap it in and call it a day. As for the piston play it may burn oil after reassembled but that's a 50/50 chance. Love your videos and your hoard!
+Rob Meek , Seems to me that a lot of engines burn more oil after they get a valve job, I'm not sure if a half valve job counts... I'm going to get a new intake valve and timing chain, assuming the valve lap cut looks good, I'm just going to slam it together and see what I have... If the lap cut looks bad, I'll order a used head.... Parts should be here soon, I guess we will all find out which way the cookies fall... I hope Ur Warrior turns out well, it seems that U R doing all the right things.... Thanks for the kind words, encouragement, watching, and commenting, U saying so makes this whole you tube thing worth while to me!!!!!
it doesnt look that bad,but until you remove the valve its anyones guess. i would think a 20 dollar valve and some valve grinding compound will do. there may be a replacement manual adjuster made for that engine.
+roger oconnor , I'm going to replace and lap a new intake valve, depending on what the lap cut looks like, I will go forward from there, I'm also going to replace the timing chain... I hope to have the parts soon, so, we will all see how lucky I am... Thanks for your thoughts, advice, watching, and commenting!!!!!
I would take a look at the valve guide and if its nice throw a new valve in. That looks like a lot of buildup defiantly needs a cleaning good luck with the fix
+231flash , I have heard of folks tapping the valve straight and have seen a couple of those engines run, for me, it is worthwhile to replace the valve, lap the seat and depending on what the cut looks like, I will go forward from there... I'm also going to change the timing chain... I want this to be a solid, good running ATV, the last thing I want is a dropped valve and murdered engine.... Thanks for your advice, watching, and commenting!!!!
To test the valves after replacing just put water in it. They should be able to pole water. At a min. I would put a new chain in it. Or drill out the tensioner and tap and put a bolt in. so you can tighten the chain up more.
Yep, I adjusted the tensioner tight with the bolts 1/8" loose, so when I tightened the bolts that last 1/8" , got the chain tension I wanted, snug tight but not crazy tight.
It's up to you and your financial situation. You say you like the features of this bike but are they anything compared to a good motor? Its like a boat kinda. It's only as good as the engine.
harvey i have the same bike! im having a problem with the wiring. some times it shuts off and when i try to restart it will just pop and fart. when its running it runs perfect any advice would be awsome love your vids😎
Hey Michael, My Lakota does that too, turns out that there is a loose wire that provides power to the ATV, I'm not sure if there is a relay that needs to be powered up for the ATV to run or that the CDI wants 12VDC.... For mine, the lights dash and headlights go out just before the stall begins.... I think there is a fuse holder that specifically that is my cause... I hope this helps, thanks for asking, watching, and commenting!!!!
Thanks for the fast reply😎just ordered a new cdi off ebay for 20 bucks. I watched a vidio on a lakoda that was doing the same thing and hevsaidvit was his cdi. Fingers crossed thats it
its a nice bike............you said your going to use it, go ahead and buy a new head for 120.00, money don't mean much when your dead, you have an identical bike if the head ends up not fixing it
+SurviventheOnslaught , I decided to get a new intake valve and timing chain, after I lap the new valve, I'll look at the cut and make a decision on new head or not, I basically have a $20 valve at risk... U R right, worse comes to worse, it is a parts bike and $ does not do the dead any good.... Thanks for the good advice, watching, and commenting!!!!
+brickapolis 2014 , It is going to get a new intake valve and timing chain, depending on what the cut looks like when I lap the valve, I will decide if the head needs to be replaced, thanks for your advice, watching, and commenting!!!!
+luke j ahrens , I think U mean the 250SX.... It needs a lot of love and attention for sure... I will give it a shot, need to make some room in the garage to get it in and look at it.... Thanks for your thoughts, watching, and commenting!!!!
I would remove the valve with a view to just replacing the valve after seeing so much carbon build up on the top of the piston, with a view to selling the bike
I would just throw a new valve in it and see what happens. Check out ghdiscountatv on eBay. He offers a head rebuilding and top end rebuilding service that's reasonably priced for different machines.
Just lap her in she should be fine. I have done just as you said about putting some nasty motors together and really they should have died long ago that stayed running
Unless i was going to completely rebuild , I would measure the chain , but it fit the sprocket so may be ok . I would pull the valve and look at seat . if seat looks ok then look at guide , measure if can . If that looks good then get valve and lap in . I would also dress the piston where the valve hit , no sharp spots or raised spots . Unless you see something really wrong with valve stem when removing i think a valve will fix it .
also after you lap the valve and put the head back together you can use some water to fill the valve area and make sure nothing leaks out either valve
+roger oconnor , That water leak by valve test is a very good idea, I will be trying that!!!! Thanks for the good advice, watching, and commenting!!!!
+Harvey Spooner gas,or any other thin liquid works too
Yep, last time I used mineral spirits, my recent engine, I was confident in my lap job and did not even check it with a leak test, I have never had a fresh lap fail, but...good to check also if you want.
I am actually going through the same process on a yamaha warrior. It was smoking so I pulled head replaced valve seals and was getting ready to lap the valves when I noticed my valve seat was trashed. I ended up getting a good used head put it back together and still burns oil. Next is fresh hone and new rings. As for yours I would just replace valve if seat Isent messed up and lap it in and call it a day. As for the piston play it may burn oil after reassembled but that's a 50/50 chance. Love your videos and your hoard!
+Rob Meek , Seems to me that a lot of engines burn more oil after they get a valve job, I'm not sure if a half valve job counts... I'm going to get a new intake valve and timing chain, assuming the valve lap cut looks good, I'm just going to slam it together and see what I have... If the lap cut looks bad, I'll order a used head.... Parts should be here soon, I guess we will all find out which way the cookies fall... I hope Ur Warrior turns out well, it seems that U R doing all the right things.... Thanks for the kind words, encouragement, watching, and commenting, U saying so makes this whole you tube thing worth while to me!!!!!
I would lap a new valve in if the valve guide isn't worn to much.
it doesnt look that bad,but until you remove the valve its anyones guess. i would think a 20 dollar valve and some valve grinding compound will do. there may be a replacement manual adjuster made for that engine.
+roger oconnor , I'm going to replace and lap a new intake valve, depending on what the lap cut looks like, I will go forward from there, I'm also going to replace the timing chain... I hope to have the parts soon, so, we will all see how lucky I am... Thanks for your thoughts, advice, watching, and commenting!!!!!
are you going to need help getting the 200x runing
+luke j ahrens , If an ATV can run, I can make it run... Thanks for your thoughts, watching, and commenting!!!!
I would take a look at the valve guide and if its nice throw a new valve in. That looks like a lot of buildup defiantly needs a cleaning good luck with the fix
Believe it or not but I've seen people tap the bent valve with a hammer to bend it back and slap it together and have them run.
+231flash , I have heard of folks tapping the valve straight and have seen a couple of those engines run, for me, it is worthwhile to replace the valve, lap the seat and depending on what the cut looks like, I will go forward from there... I'm also going to change the timing chain... I want this to be a solid, good running ATV, the last thing I want is a dropped valve and murdered engine.... Thanks for your advice, watching, and commenting!!!!
To test the valves after replacing just put water in it. They should be able to pole water. At a min. I would put a new chain in it. Or drill out the tensioner and tap and put a bolt in. so you can tighten the chain up more.
Yep, I adjusted the tensioner tight with the bolts 1/8" loose, so when I tightened the bolts that last 1/8" , got the chain tension I wanted, snug tight but not crazy tight.
I have a tool to recut the seat, can let you borrow it.
It's up to you and your financial situation. You say you like the features of this bike but are they anything compared to a good motor? Its like a boat kinda. It's only as good as the engine.
Only as good as the mechanic. Ah ha.😄, yep.
Looks like a well used engine, I think I would just replace the valve. I have actually bent them back and then just lapped and gotten away with it.
Quick set of Orem rings and a cam chain and slap a new or used valve in there. My little machine shop ground 4 of mine for like 10$
harvey i have the same bike! im having a problem with the wiring. some times it shuts off and when i try to restart it will just pop and fart. when its running it runs perfect any advice would be awsome love your vids😎
Hey Michael, My Lakota does that too, turns out that there is a loose wire that provides power to the ATV, I'm not sure if there is a relay that needs to be powered up for the ATV to run or that the CDI wants 12VDC.... For mine, the lights dash and headlights go out just before the stall begins.... I think there is a fuse holder that specifically that is my cause... I hope this helps, thanks for asking, watching, and commenting!!!!
Thanks for the fast reply😎just ordered a new cdi off ebay for 20 bucks. I watched a vidio on a lakoda
that was doing the same thing and hevsaidvit was his cdi. Fingers crossed thats it
Hey Michael, Let me know how it all turns out.... Thanks for asking, watching, and commenting!!!!
new valve and lap it in, if it doesn't work get the used head
its a nice bike............you said your going to use it, go ahead and buy a new head for 120.00, money don't mean much when your dead, you have an identical bike if the head ends up not fixing it
+SurviventheOnslaught , I decided to get a new intake valve and timing chain, after I lap the new valve, I'll look at the cut and make a decision on new head or not, I basically have a $20 valve at risk... U R right, worse comes to worse, it is a parts bike and $ does not do the dead any good.... Thanks for the good advice, watching, and commenting!!!!
Awesome.
I'd say smash a valve in it and call it a day
+brickapolis 2014 , It is going to get a new intake valve and timing chain, depending on what the cut looks like when I lap the valve, I will decide if the head needs to be replaced, thanks for your advice, watching, and commenting!!!!
I mean 250x
+luke j ahrens , I think U mean the 250SX.... It needs a lot of love and attention for sure... I will give it a shot, need to make some room in the garage to get it in and look at it.... Thanks for your thoughts, watching, and commenting!!!!
Same thing happened on my 98 lakoda
I would remove the valve with a view to just replacing the valve after seeing so much carbon build up on the top of the piston, with a view to selling the bike
I would just replace the valve
this may help big guy, :D
just get a valve and let it be
I would just throw a new valve in it and see what happens. Check out ghdiscountatv on eBay. He offers a head rebuilding and top end rebuilding service that's reasonably priced for different machines.
and a kawasaki 1 too, ;-)
I used a Bronco and it spec'd out perfect.
But yea, o.e.m , is best. Usually. ..
Just lap her in she should be fine. I have done just as you said about putting some nasty motors together and really they should have died long ago that stayed running