Nathan,would you let me know,when you replaced the compressor,if it's a used one,before installation do you need to add pag oil in the compressor?or the oil goes in when you regas it?thanks
What would cause the relief valve on the back of the compressor to continuously blow? I had a bad aux fan I ran with for a while, would cause poor A/C performance at idle which is normal. One day, sitting at idle, my refrigerant blew out of the relief valve on the back of the compressor. Assumed my high side pressure was getting too high from lack of aux fan cooling. Replaced my aux fan. A/C now works perfect at idle, but if I sit idling too long, it will blow out the relief valve. If I am driving, it does not. Bad pressure switch? Clogged drier? Maybe my relief valve is weak from blowing out the first time? I did verify my system is charged correctly (1.650lbs for my 1999 540i6) and the pressures equalize when the system is off.
Man, I just love the way you jump into the middle of a typically intimidating process. It was great to see a "ghetto" job actually work. The comment about using the vacuum pump to evacuate the system for moisture is probably worth noting. In your favor was that the system was open for only a short while on a dry day and that you (sort-of) pushed the air out using the freon. That said, however, I would like you to have shown that the compressor had not detonated. I believe you were able to turn the compressor with a screwdriver but you didn't make the point explicitly, especially after you pulled the compressor off. If the compressor had self-destructed the debris would have been pumped throughout the system and destroyed a replacement compressor. I'm sure you thought of that and noted the free-turning old compressor yourself, but it would be a good warning to others to be careful if you had mentioned in the video. (Apologies if I missed it.) As always, another great vid.
My ac is not engaging. There’s no signal from the wire going to the compressor. Fuse is ok. When I put ac on inpa shows compressor is functioning ac fan works but still no power to compressor. Relay ?
Nathan, I enjoy your videos. I do agree with bimmerman3 that you normally need to pull a vacuum. Especially with the system open like it was. I believe that's for moisture as well. But I did hear you mention you were doing a "ghetto" AC job, so perhaps you are well aware and just limited with tools. At any rate, thanks for your efforts!
I worked on my car so much fixed so many things just about everythings fixed now all i do is mostly walk now because Im so full of car stuff I could,nt even go for a another spark plug im full
You're just going to run into this same problem again. You really should have pulled a vaccuum on that new compressor before filling to get the moisture out. Also, I recommend having a shop pump out your old freon. Really not good to breathe in, or for anything else
Hey, i have a climate problem with my E39 that the Compressor doesn't turn on right away after the car is turned on and the A/C button is on, it starts working 3-4 minutes after car has been started and then it works just fine cold air comes and all and yesterday i noticed that if i push the ac button off, the compressor doesn't stop spinning and even if i turn the climate of it still spinns.What could be the problem?
Great vid as always, i just have a question ,about how can i get the gas out ,ghetto style? Can i just put the car outside and release the gas on the high and low pressure ports until it's empty? This is not for my bmw ,but my Toyota needs new compressor bcs unlike of the e39, this car isn't drivable without the AC compressor bcs of the drive belt. So i just want to install the compressor myself, and then take the car to the shop to get it filled.
Hi Nathan how are you but can you mention what to use to clean inside the compressor also how much oil and what type of oil you have to add when changing ac compressor and by the way you didn't do vacuum as I read some where that we have to do it Hope it's just plug and play And fill gas But vacuuming is a big headache
Oil quantity is found on charging tables/labels (varies for each vehicle), type is PAG 46 Double End Capped for R-134A systems with Denso compressors with "ND-Oil 8" written on their labels. Never flush a compressor with anything at all, you risk degrading the oil.
I'm a fan I'm a big fan off your videos I'm having a problem with my AC every time I put freon in there it keeps leaking out from underneath the car any suggestions??
Hey Nathan, I just run across your video and instantly subscribed. I really like the commentary lol. Hey so I have a 97 540I 6spd with an AC issue. Went to re-charge it, and i cannot tell what gasket blew, but I have a leak somewhere. Any chance you have worked on a 540I and/or done an AC replacement in one? This car was garage kept for 5 years and now I'm using it as a local daily driver to keep the mileage down on my Explorer. Before I take it to a shop, any tips or tricks I should look for to self diagnose? Let me know. Thank you!
@@NathansBMWWorkshop Okay. Ill try to recharge again. However, I only charged after I was driving it and I lost all the oil while driving. Needless to say that was fun driving into town with a giant white smoke cloud chasing me down the highway. I wish I could've been near the front to listen for where it was leaking from. Whether it be the valve or the O ring on the top end of the unit.
How all you guys ganna not notice he keeps saying coolant. Buahahaha bro you’re doing ac -100% wrong. Oh btw it’s called refrigerant , not coolant, no Freon, refrigerant. Also you need to use a proper manifold gauges, a evac pump and tank, a vacuum pump and scale and a micron gauge. After evacing the system into your recovery tank, you make any necessary repairs , then pull a vacuum with manifold gauges and pump down to 800 microns. Close the valves and let it sit for 45 mins. If it holds vacuum , then hook up your refrigerant tank, open valve flip it upside down on your scale, purge the air out the feed line. Zero out scale and start to fill from high side. Once its full to spec close high side. Remove high side from port, start car ac on full blast, close rank valve and open high side valve and then open low side valve and dump all the remaining refrigerant in the lines into the low side . Remove manifold from car, replace caps and done.
Nathan,would you let me know,when you replaced the compressor,if it's a used one,before installation do you need to add pag oil in the compressor?or the oil goes in when you regas it?thanks
Would have been nice if you actually showed us the work you were doing
Riightt, from someone who has to do this tonight this video gave me nothing :c
What would cause the relief valve on the back of the compressor to continuously blow? I had a bad aux fan I ran with for a while, would cause poor A/C performance at idle which is normal. One day, sitting at idle, my refrigerant blew out of the relief valve on the back of the compressor. Assumed my high side pressure was getting too high from lack of aux fan cooling. Replaced my aux fan. A/C now works perfect at idle, but if I sit idling too long, it will blow out the relief valve. If I am driving, it does not. Bad pressure switch? Clogged drier? Maybe my relief valve is weak from blowing out the first time? I did verify my system is charged correctly (1.650lbs for my 1999 540i6) and the pressures equalize when the system is off.
Man, I just love the way you jump into the middle of a typically intimidating process. It was great to see a "ghetto" job actually work. The comment about using the vacuum pump to evacuate the system for moisture is probably worth noting. In your favor was that the system was open for only a short while on a dry day and that you (sort-of) pushed the air out using the freon. That said, however, I would like you to have shown that the compressor had not detonated. I believe you were able to turn the compressor with a screwdriver but you didn't make the point explicitly, especially after you pulled the compressor off. If the compressor had self-destructed the debris would have been pumped throughout the system and destroyed a replacement compressor. I'm sure you thought of that and noted the free-turning old compressor yourself, but it would be a good warning to others to be careful if you had mentioned in the video. (Apologies if I missed it.)
As always, another great vid.
You have the right way, the wrong way and that gray area I like that gray area
My ac is not engaging. There’s no signal from the wire going to the compressor. Fuse is ok. When I put ac on inpa shows compressor is functioning ac fan works but still no power to compressor. Relay ?
this crunching sound like cricket what is it from? not enough oil? everything works for me but I have the same squeaking sound, is this normal?
Nathan, I enjoy your videos. I do agree with bimmerman3 that you normally need to pull a vacuum. Especially with the system open like it was. I believe that's for moisture as well. But I did hear you mention you were doing a "ghetto" AC job, so perhaps you are well aware and just limited with tools. At any rate, thanks for your efforts!
Excuse me..! The noise extra is.. for the ball bearings of the compressor damaged ? I have one very similar noise !
My car its a BMW E39 520i/99,and all my problems with this car its don with your videos.Thanks Man.
Wow, this guy will have like a new car once you are finished with it, haha. Keep up the good work!
I worked on my car so much fixed so many things just about everythings fixed now all i do is mostly walk now because Im so full of car stuff I could,nt even go for a another spark plug im full
So based on this video, is it safe to assume that the BMW E46 does not need the aux fan to be functional in order for the AC compressor to work?
You're just going to run into this same problem again. You really should have pulled a vaccuum on that new compressor before filling to get the moisture out. Also, I recommend having a shop pump out your old freon. Really not good to breathe in, or for anything else
how is that a regas you need the car running to check the pressures on the hi and low side
Hey, i have a climate problem with my E39 that the Compressor doesn't turn on right away after the car is turned on and the A/C button is on, it starts working 3-4 minutes after car has been started and then it works just fine cold air comes and all and yesterday i noticed that if i push the ac button off, the compressor doesn't stop spinning and even if i turn the climate of it still spinns.What could be the problem?
Great vid as always, i just have a question ,about how can i get the gas out ,ghetto style? Can i just put the car outside and release the gas on the high and low pressure ports until it's empty? This is not for my bmw ,but my Toyota needs new compressor bcs unlike of the e39, this car isn't drivable without the AC compressor bcs of the drive belt. So i just want to install the compressor myself, and then take the car to the shop to get it filled.
Why you didn't replace just the clutch?
Hi Nathan how are you but can you mention what to use to clean inside the compressor also how much oil and what type of oil you have to add when changing ac compressor and by the way you didn't do vacuum as I read some where that we have to do it Hope it's just plug and play And fill gas But vacuuming is a big headache
Oil quantity is found on charging tables/labels (varies for each vehicle), type is PAG 46 Double End Capped for R-134A systems with Denso compressors with "ND-Oil 8" written on their labels. Never flush a compressor with anything at all, you risk degrading the oil.
Have you replaced the AC Compressor coil on a 2003 X5 E53 3.0L?
I'm a fan I'm a big fan off your videos I'm having a problem with my AC every time I put freon in there it keeps leaking out from underneath the car any suggestions??
it's a 2002 E39
Always amazing great work!
Great video. Is this the same process for a 05 525i?
Dude you didn’t pull a vacuum. Always pull vacuum before adding freon
Nice job Nathan,all videos it a verry verry good for my.
Hey Nathan, I just run across your video and instantly subscribed. I really like the commentary lol. Hey so I have a 97 540I 6spd with an AC issue. Went to re-charge it, and i cannot tell what gasket blew, but I have a leak somewhere. Any chance you have worked on a 540I and/or done an AC replacement in one? This car was garage kept for 5 years and now I'm using it as a local daily driver to keep the mileage down on my Explorer. Before I take it to a shop, any tips or tricks I should look for to self diagnose?
Let me know. Thank you!
If you overcharged it it has a relief valve that purges Freon out
@@NathansBMWWorkshop Okay. Ill try to recharge again. However, I only charged after I was driving it and I lost all the oil while driving. Needless to say that was fun driving into town with a giant white smoke cloud chasing me down the highway. I wish I could've been near the front to listen for where it was leaking from. Whether it be the valve or the O ring on the top end of the unit.
$3.99 a can?! It's going for over $12 here.
Aux Fan could just be a fuse......Easiest to fix and first thing to check.....
It is not the clutch, the rupery material come from the outer bully only and it can be changed without by opening one screw in the face of it
How can I remove the AC compressor and drive without it
just pull all the lines, condensor and compressor done
youre a shade tree mechanic, whenever filling for refrigerant, you need to figure out how it leaked out.
thanks
Replace bearing?
How all you guys ganna not notice he keeps saying coolant. Buahahaha bro you’re doing ac -100% wrong. Oh btw it’s called refrigerant , not coolant, no Freon, refrigerant. Also you need to use a proper manifold gauges, a evac pump and tank, a vacuum pump and scale and a micron gauge. After evacing the system into your recovery tank, you make any necessary repairs , then pull a vacuum with manifold gauges and pump down to 800 microns. Close the valves and let it sit for 45 mins. If it holds vacuum , then hook up your refrigerant tank, open valve flip it upside down on your scale, purge the air out the feed line. Zero out scale and start to fill from high side. Once its full to spec close high side. Remove high side from port, start car ac on full blast, close rank valve and open high side valve and then open low side valve and dump all the remaining refrigerant in the lines into the low side . Remove manifold from car, replace caps and done.
Hey Nathan .. just an advice from a brother .. don't work on AC Systems again please until you know how to .. Thanks .
wasted time and money