Let me offer a stronger opinion: For urban/commute use, belts are unbeatable. The low maintenance and the corollary of cleanliness for your clothes and possibly insides if you bring the bike in are huge. In theory a Dutch style enclosed chain could be a good option but belts are fantastic for this kind of use.
@@chalocolina3554 I've been riding a belt drive bike for ~4 years. The belt has remained clean (as clean as the bike is/isn't) There's no lubricant to attach to dirt (and be staining itself. So no real issue while riding and no contact stain from brushing up against a chain while walking, parking, etc. either. Yes, in theory, one could get a pant leg caught between the belt and the cog. But I haven't even had a close call (and have had issues with chains many times over the years). Many come with belt guards to mitigate this as well. Unfortunately my current one (Scott Sub Speed 10) shipped with a plastic one that broke off (The Trek Soho that was stolen had a metal one)
I've had an internal 7 speed hub for 17 years, year round commuting in Toronto, zero maintenance. The chain had to be tightened periodically due to stretching, and there's the chain rust. My next bike will be belt driven.
I remember having a Giant mtb many years ago with the Shimano Nexus 7 hub if I remember correctly the hub have me hassle free maintenance for at least 10 years minimum before it broke down?
I got my first Gates belt drive x Nexus-7 about 18 months ago. If you are using an internal hub, there is no need to use anything but belt if buying a new bicycle. Before I bought it I thought it was a risk, but within weeks (even in spring) I was adapted and totally sold on belt for commuter bikes. I keep looking for problems. Have not found any. After more than a year of at least 150km/week, the only wear I can find is the aluminum cog is slightly polished & shiny, no signs of advanced wear needing replacement (see Gates documentation). I think it will take years to accumulate enough wear. Clean with old toothbrush and soapy water. That is all. Love it.
I've daily driven a belt for 4 years now and I've to say my bicycle has way more issues with the belt. My bicycle repair shop says I'm the only one, but I've ripped through 10 belts (replaced for free because of warranty), it tends to slip more than a regular chain and is more difficult to maintain. (I don't mind oiling my chain 4 times a year) And when it comes to bikes it's relevant: I'm from the Netherlands.
The Dutch answer to the problem of oil on your pants is complete chain cases. They're reportedly heavy and still require internal gear hubs, but they apparently do the job, protecting the chain from the elements and minimizing the need to lube your chain. One thing I think is safe to say is: *don't* buy a belt drive bike as your first. ("Entry-level" in marketing terms.) People who are new to biking will make adjustments as they figure out what they like and what they don't like. Belt drive bikes seem like a great long-term investment (if it's right for you), but one you gotta stick with once you have it.
If you are seeking faster time in any type of riding, then get a chain. For everything else, belts should rule. If there were more belt drive bikes available, biking would be more popular because it really suits the needs of everyone except racers of any type.
I love my belt drive bikes. First one was commuter road bike (Civia Bryant), was mainly interested in the low-maintenance aspect, but also wound up loving the quiet. Second one was an e-bike, having already been sold on the belt drive for commuting. Definitely are some downsides. Efficiency issues don't bother me much; IGH is also much easier for commuting anyway, maintenance-wise. And it's not like I'm trying to win any races getting to/from work. Even less of an issue on the e-bike, where the motor overcomes whatever losses I'd otherwise have. But I will admit that the requirement for special frame design limits availability. Also, belt drive is a lot more finicky with respect to the alignment of the rear wheel. Between disc brakes and belt drive, any time the rear wheel has to be removed, there's a whole production getting everything lined up again and tensioned right. By the way, while the frame does have to be designed for the belt drive, it's not true that the design must be a split frame. There are bikes with elevated/raised chain stays that also can accommodate a belt drive. In those examples, the belt doesn't pass through the space between the stays and seat tube Another option involves a tensioner/idler on the frame to allow the whole belt to travel through the frame triangle above the chain stay. Either way, there's no need for a break in the frame. In spite of the modest disadvantages, for me a belt drive is the _only_ option for my cycling, which is primarily commuting with some recreation thrown in.
Like everyone has said: maintenance wise they're amazing. The payoff is weight of the internal hub gear. Friction: mostly from the belt entering and exiting the cog's teeth. To counter this, I've slightly loosened the belt, it does now occasionally slip when I'm on a very steep hill or taking off fast from a standstill. But I ride with someone using a chain drive and I really notice their frequent oiling of the chain, the sound. It's a good reminder that the belt has definite high points. I rode on a zinc coated chain through the winter previously and it doesn't last nearly as long as the belt drive, also it the chain stretches so much (internal 3 speeds seem to do that) that rust wasn't the reason I replaced it.
I have a foot tambourine mounted to the seat of my bike, it makes noise whenever I hit a bump. This alerts any convoy comrades immediately to bumpy terrain, as well it passively alerts nearby people I’m moving past.
An enclosed chain such as those found on Dutch Bikes have all the advantages of a belt drive, but don't require a special frame (but must be either single speed or internal geared).
I'm at 3 years with my Schindlehauer Friedrich XI. I have cycled 8,000 miles so far on th e one belt and I love it. The bike was chosen because it's my daily commute and I was tired of my bke being in the workshop. So this has Disc brake TRP Spyre cable disc brakes. I replace the pads once a year 3,000 miles. It has a built in dynamo, no lights to worry about they stay on the bike and don't need battery or charging,. It has an 11 gear internal hub. Drained and refilled once a year. And the belt which will be 9,000 miles used this year and I'm wondering if it should be changed just because I never want a break down on my bike (tyres are Schwalbe, Kevlar in the tyres) I fitted these in the first year. London roads, too much glass on a Monday morning. So the tyres have done maybe 7,000 and still don't need changing. So I bought for low maintenance and frankly I can pretty much get away with taking it to the workshop once a year, so long as they do all the work in one go. I love my belt. It's quiet.
I got a belt drive cargo bike a few months ago, and now I'm planning on replacing my daily bike with a belt drive bike as well. Absolutely love the belt drive.
Veercycle makes a belt drive conversion kit. Check them out. Kinda spendy but may be a good option for someone that wants a belt drive in their favorite bike.
I've got a center-track belt drive with an Alifine 11 IGH and I love it for all-weather riding. Zero hassles. That said when the weather is nice, I ride my single speed because she's more fun.
Isn't the required internal rear hub also a added advantage to the belt? Especially for Commuting and Winter riding where salted roads wreak havoc on all parts.
A like the idea of a belt drive for urban cycling for the being low maintenance, but a single speed chain and sprocket are still easier to degrease and clean than a full derailleur setup.
I am swinging a mid-80s MTB rigid frame to to an internal hub for a dedicated winter bike. For that frame, a belt drive is out of the question but I still like watching the tech. I was following another UA-camr that rode a Priority prototype MTB with a Pinyon box and Gates belt drive 2/3 of the Great Divide MTB Route. I do not think he had to touch anything on the his fully loaded backpacking rig the entire trip.
I'm definitely hoping to get a belt drive when they become more ubiquitous and cheaper, that seems to be the only thing holding it back from being objectively superior for commuting.
@@MondeSerenaWilliams I feel like that's too cheap. I bought a 200 dollar bicycle and I regret it because I had to do plenty of stuff to make it actually good. For once, cheap bicycles use the worst bottom brackets that break down almost immediately if they ever see any dirt or dust or water. The general quality isn't that great either. The gear ratio is awful even for flat terrain. Better to pay at least 350 dollars and get something decent. Here in Russia, I can get a belt-drive bicycle with a 3-speed Shimano gear hub for just about that.
Seems like a straightforward flow chart: Are you buying/building an internal gear or ss hub that supports belts? If yes, are there split frames (or compatible suspension/dropouts) available in your preference/style? If yes, get it. The price pays for itself.
You forgot one plus side which I think is the most important at least I value it the most. It's that it does not strech. So you don't have to keep tensioning a chain at least once a month.
@@kevinmurtagh3434 I have to change chains more often than 1 tk miles, because I do not care if there is raining or no and I use to drive muddy roads. chain is dirty and I am to lazy to clean it. In bike repair shop are pointing at me and say: you have to buy belt drive bike. +/- 300 euros per year goes to maintenance.
Kevlar and graphene might be more flex and temperature tolerant. Chains should be made more from hollowed out titanium, it's also corrosion resistant and harder metal.
chain & singlespeed, possibly in some kind of enclosure if dirty town as it affords spending less time for cleaning and lubing chain. customizing gear ratio is important; belts do not let you have 46:19 for example. it's hard to find the parts (not only the belt but also the cogs) when they are worn out and they are not cheap. only if you live in a hilly area (frequently more than 10%) should you consider multispeed but if you want things complicated... get a rear motor hub (singlespeed is a beast for this) as it means zero maintenance and much less chain wear.
U forgot to mention 1 big drawback: DRAG! I saw a video where the 2 were compared to each other, each drivetrain consisting of a bottom bracket and crank set, the respective connecting part and an unlaced rear hub. When the presenter gave each drivetrain a quick push the chain drive kept spinning for much longer than the belt drive which came to a stop almost immediately! The explanation is simple: A belt is a single part and thus has to deform in order to move around the gears. A chain is made up of joints that take much less force to bend than the belt does to deform, so a chain is more efficient.
A well maintained chain is better, definitely. But your average commuter squeaks and grinds their way to work without ever bothering to grease or clean their chain or prevent it rusting. Belts are better for those people.
Most scientific tests attest an efficiency advantage of about 2% for a perfectly maintained chain over the belt. A badly maintained chain can quickly become less efficient. However, a bigger efficiency drag is using a geared hub, especially anything other than a Rohloff. An Enviolo, for example, loses more than 10 percentage points over Rohloff and derailleur! So if you want to use a chain because of the efficiency, you should also use a derailleur. Personally, I wouldn’t want to use either.
I'd wager that test wasn't representative of reality. The wattage loses in a chain increase with power transfer (friction in the links increases under tension), whereas the losses in a belt would tend to remain constant with increasing tension. There's a _small_ difference in efficiency but I it's not that noticeable. Unless you're a serious "cat 6" racer on your commute the difference is too small to be worth considering.
@@srobeck77 Efficiency losses with an ebike still mater. Will draw down your battery quicker and if you are going up a hill it will reduce your speed if you are the maximum torque of the motor
Belt drives are awesome!!!...If you are more on the noncompetetive side of cycling i would say. Since i worked as an bike courier during university (nearly 20 years ago) and needed sometimes 3 complete drivetrains per year i always searched for the "next step" in less mantainance and improved durability...so i went from a lot of mtb parts to an Rohloff Speedhub with an bmx chain wich was an eye opener back in the days!!! 5 years ago i purchased my first belt driven bike and got my second one two years ago...now i use a 29 er pinion-gates-mtb with this insane Lauf-fork wich is nearly maintanance free and an alfine11-gates-Urban/Gravelbike wich is also an silent dream (the Rohloffbike still exists but on my freeroller in the living room near the tv-set). I think i will never switch back to an chain driven bike...belts are so quiet, they last forever, they are so much cleaner and they are safer!!! My kids use also belt drives and they love It to! Greetings from Germany.
I had a Canyon Urban 5.0 for a few months. Loved the bike but I had to sell it because the gear range on the Nexus 8 hub was not wide enough (I do sportive riding g as well as commutes). During that time, and up to now (6 years in total) I've had a B'twin Tilt 7: a folding bike that I upgraded from 2-speed to Nexus 7. I am hopelessly in love with it. Unfortunately the aluminium frame is cracked so I have stopped using it. I am currently having a Gates belt drivetrain fitted on a Brompton. My conclusion is that I can't get away from belt drive, but it has to be for commutes only. For serious sporty rides, you will be limited by the performance of the internal hub gearing that is unavoidable with a belt...
My Cowboy bike has a Gates belt and I love it! I do clean it a bit every time I clean my bike but that’s very little maintenance. I’ve ridden 4000km and it still looks like new! And I don’t get grease on my pants, even when my pants go tangled up in the belt and crank it was fine.
Bike commuter and heart patient, therefore I’m testing all the e-bike options. I’ve owned old Porsche 944s with interference engines - carbon fiber belt every time thank you. Salutations de Montréal, Calgary guy. ;)
As a bike person I've got the bike for every reason and season and with my fleet is beginning to age out I'm looking at dumping every bike I own and getting all belt drive. Other than cost I can't see why anyone wouldn't switch.
Belt drives are fantastic and that is my committal answer. Just get a bike that was manufactured with belt drive in mind. Trek District 4 is an excellent commuter bike.
You could adapt a pre existing bike by having a double roller thing clamped really tight to the chainstay, and have one long belt and one short belt, and they can join on said roller. Or maybe the short belt can go upwards from the crank and the long belt can go back down towards the wheels so you can use water bottle braze ons or clamp it like a derailleur. At least that's what I can see working in my head. The pictures are always kinda incomplete and I sometimes miss things when multiple moving parts are introduced. Could be a fun project?
You forgot the number one advantage of a belt drive: “I can ride my bike without a chain!” That joke aside, I got my belt-drive because, after I rode a Dahon for many years, I absolutely wanted a bike with a hub gear - to be able to switch gears just like that _while standing_ is invaluable, and I found myself overtaking mountainbikers uphill, because all it takes me to switch gear is to not pedal for a split second, push the gear lever, and on I go with full force, while said mountainbikers lose much more inertia/energy with their traditional derailleurs, which simply take much longer to switch. That the bike came with a belt-drive was just the icing on the cake, and the only disadvantage I noticed was that in earlier times, when I slowly advanced on pedestrians, they could hear the rattling of the chain, now I have to call them to ask them to step to the side for a moment, _because they literally can't hear my bike approaching._ The low maintenance is a bonus, yes, but the biggest win is the complete lack of dirty black oil. It is a weird feeling when you think you forgot something only to remember that, no, you don't have to sleeve up your trouser leg, because there is simply no chain to soil it. Would I recommend a belt-drive? Yes, but the hub-gear that comes with it is the actual win.
I would think about getting a belt drive, but yeah definitely they're expensive, and I don't really want to buy a whole new bike. I was thinking about it when I bought an ebike recently, but I just couldn't commit the extra $1k or whatever to get an internal hub + belt drive system
I guess if you're picking your times to ride more carefully, and avoiding rain and mud, there'd be far less to worry about for dirt, and filth, and rust with a normal chain. I don't have to clean mine that often. But I suppose if it's snow on the ground all the time, then to avoid that you'd be driving your car for months! Here we get snow (at 5000' ASL) but it's normally just for a few days at a time.
I replace all of my bike's steel chains with stainless steel chains. That way I don't have any problems with rusting from the salt slush in the winters.
Belt drives do break, they also squeak when dirty, I have seen bars of soap used to remedy the speaking. My singlespeed is silent and has a perfect chainline. A rear internal hub such as a Shimano Nexus has an internal friction that robs power. If you're riding a Priority Bike with the internal gearing and wish to change to a lower gear, then a new cog and belt may be necessary. The frames used on the Carbon belt bikes usually have a rear stay that seperates, because the belt does not seperate as a chain does, there are no links. Watching Ryan Van Duzer on UA-cam sees him carrying a spare belt, as do other belt users on that channel. So, I couldn't upgrade my present bike to a carbon belt without taking a hacksaw to the rear triangle. I see the Carbon belt as more expensive, less efficient, heavier and less adaptable, and you are less likely to find a Carbon belt at bike shops or a Wal*Mart type of store. I do enjoy your videos.
Shimano linkglide is a good contender and affordable. Ps. With modern Shimano chains you don't need it to clean it all the time. Just run it thru a cloth, reapply quality lube, let it dry for 2 hours if you can and you're ready to go for another 500 kilometers.
Why the wishy, washing take? I'll fix it: belt driven is better in every way except for upfront costs. Superior technology always works that way. Nuff said....
Sadly, belt-drives and hub gears are basically non-existent here in the Philippines, or if they are, would be expensive. Would've made for a great commuter for a rainy country like mine.
Belt drives are expensive everywhere because one company has that niche cornered. And don’t lie.. I know the Cannondale Bad Boy 1 exists in the Phillippines. I was just watching reviews
There's a better solution: waxed chains. Increases longevity significantly compared to oiled chains and like belts, does away with the mess. Like with anything there are tradeoffs and drawbacks. Belts will still last longer than a waxed chain and have less maintenance. But a waxed chain with the two pot method is still easier to maintain than an oiled one, by skipping the cleaning step. Especially so if drip wax is used in between hot wax baths.
With a chain system you have a wide range of gears that aid you to tackle steep climbs and go fast on straight roads. Do the belt drives have the same level of advantage ? I mean a 11x36 cassette gives you a wide range in comparison.
I don't understand why everybody is saying belt drive needing only low maintenance. When you get a flat tire, changing tires for belt drive should be more complicated.
The fact that belt drive-train needs a special frame, makes the chain bike not being convertible to a belt drive-train one. I think, the middle ground would be to go with a think chain and a hub gear, so that we can have a strong chain and also less maintenance gear system.
I respect your work. But I'm down to one SS for commuting and recreation and it's going to take a cataclysmic event to get me to switch from a chain. I'm 64 so that SS might last me the balance of my life. Or not. I might lose a bet or need a 3 speed hub and have to do a new build. You never know. I still ride V brakes so I'm a troglodyte. Lol.
@@event4216 My SS - Fixed Langster with Keiren chain is unbreakable. A bike messenger could hammer it daily & no worries. KMC 710 - (Keiren) chain was $18 ! Once Shimano (IF ?) gets serious about marketing their 13 speed gearbox set up perhaps these benefits will come down to a reasonable price point. Devoted super cyclists will pay $3000 + for bikes but NOT a wider public. Most of my non-cyclist friends cannot swallow $1000, let alone $3000. I still marvel at how relatively affordable chain - Cassette - Deraileur systems can be. And maintained reasonably. But I sure wouldn't mind the better tech of IGH / Gearbox. Someday....
Belt compared to chain is a minimum difference in efficiency loss. It's when paired with an internal hub (not Rohloff) that you'll see losses of above 10% (depending on gear selected).
@@timothyflynn1758 Single speed bikes are something like 97% efficient. Chain drives are on average about 1% more efficient than a belt drive, so negligible.
You don't need a LBS to do belt maintenance! Just read the instructions from Gates and do it yourself. If you can maintain a chain, a belt is simpler. I have both. I definitely use the belt drive commuter bike in the rain (when you are not racing anyway) and there is simply no comparison. Most hardcore trekking bikers use belt drive + Rolloff internal drive hubs and easily put 10~20k/km on the belts between maintenance.. They are robust as hell. Edit. see this : ua-cam.com/video/8SKeQ6B2UTk/v-deo.html
wow, never heard of that belt thing, its obviously better than chain..all my bikes had chains..but yes they happen to get off the gear....but whats the warranty that the belt won't get off the gear thingy? I happen to have that issue a LOOOT..its sooo pissing off..
Belts require tension to work properly; bike hubs require lack of tension to work properly. Belt drives disassemble freewheels, trash axle bearings, and otherwise make your bike very sad unless you run them so loose that the belts self-destruct.
I've got a belt-drive-bike in November 2016. Almost 5 years and 11000km. I love the belt. Its absolutely great. Okay you must accept the internal gear hub.
You tell the truth! Internal hubs are usually heavier than regular derailleur setups. You can't use them on road bikes. You can't use them to exercise at home. I have two belt drive bikes one-speed and 3-speed bikes
I didn’t understand what belt drive was until a passing sports car with a broken door mirror caught my belt and I was suddenly doing 50 mph on my Dutch bike, but I can’t see it catching on.
I have no idea what u tried to type on in this very confusing story. It was like 3-4 different points going on with no breaks in thought with periods in between sentences. Try re-doing this like how you would talk in real life. You wouldnt barf out an entire story like that in one endless confusing sentence.
You've got a Priority brand model. I know that since I saw the label name in another video. Which model do you have? I have a feel for the Dutchboy style for aesthetics and I like it. Done very little thinking on these, and more than anything, rationalizing one as any new bike, would be the hard part. I sure did it with a lot of handguns though!
If you haven't figured out, it's Onyx Continuum. More of a hybrid bike than a Dutch coaster. I didn't like that it doesn't allow for bigger than 32mm wheels with fenders.
You meant that's the model for the Priority bike he ran in this? Don't you kind of have to accept those kinds of size limits with fenders? 32C tires is kind of the largest for road bikes a lot of times. 28C seems to be the best size for me when you assume gravel at corners and random things like that.
There are two types of gates belts: CDN and CDX. CDN is the cheaper one with a minimum temperature of -20°C while CDX can be used until -53°C. The price difference is around 20€.
My priority bike is on order. I've only been biking for 2.5 months and I loathe chain drive with derailleur. My current bike is pure junk with clunky shifting, so I didn't hesitate on upgrading to a belt drive bike. Never looking back.
@@srobeck77 actually, their bikes start at $549 (Coast and Classic Plus). They're not super expensive. The price you quoted is for the Apollo or 600x gravel bikes.
@@srobeck77 I don't care for eBikes. For a belt drive at an entry level price that has a reliable, brand name drivetrain (Gates), you'll be hard pressed to find anything less than $549.
I mean, there are chain covers which reduce maintenance very significantly, entirely eliminate tattooing. Derailleurs for commuting is silly. Get a dutch bike!
Yes, they are called penny-farthings! You have to get used to mount and unmount them and they need to be made for your leg length and you don‘t have any gears, but their „drive train“ is incredibly efficient. Sometimes I see people riding them in my neighborhood!
I'm looking into the new Roadster v2 gravel ebike. Do you think it's worth it for a comuter bike? My commute is about 11miles not so smooth roads, thus the gravel, but mainly Flats.
I've had this bike for several days now and I have not had problems with it so far. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxn_jUDSlprMIeubd9rHdEAnv59nKfjcKv The handlebars, seat+ seat post, pedals, and front wheel were detached for shipping. It was easy to reassemble, but I did need to go out and buy a set of tools in the metric system to reattach parts. Use lubricant (WD-40 works well) on screw threads and hinges before re-assembling.(NOTE: Do Not Throw Away Any Of The Packaging Until After Assembly Because Some Of The Packaging Contains Small Parts That You Will Need To Reattach Parts!!!)Took it to a bike kitchen for fine tuning afterwards, and for refilling the tires (they'd lost some air during shipping) and then practiced riding on it. It fits me perfectly at 5'4" with the seat at the lowest possible setting--would not recommend for anyone shorter, as it may be difficult to get on and off the bike without assistance of some kind. The aluminum body is beautifully welded together--the only thing that irks me somewhat is some of the plastic parts, but oh well. Not too experienced with bikes (haven't owned one in years) but if you're not willing or are unable to spend $600+ on another bike, I would say this is a good way to get started. Just check everything before you go out riding--air levels in the tires, wobbling of the seat, handlebars, or pedals, loose screws/parts, you know, as it will happen over time. Common sense. Good luck to ya, and hope my review helps.
Main question is: which one is faster for a road bike? I tried the Cannondale Bad Boy, but to me it had to much resistance in the hub. What's your experience?
In most cases, I'd expect a chain to be faster because you could use a derailleur, which is usually lighter, can usually accommodate more gears and, therefore, faster.
Morto Pesko the most efficient transmission are in order: 1. Cassette + chain + derailleur (caveats: when new, clean, well greased and in straight line) 2. Rohloff internally geared hub combined with a chain or a belt 3. Pinion internally geared mid mounted transmission box combined with a chain/belt 4. Vario 380 internal geared hub combined with a chain/belt 5. Alfine internally geared hub combined with a chain/belt Also, internally geared hubs need a few hundred miles to break-in and increase their efficiency.
@@ruirodtubeThanks for the information. I tried both Cannondale bad boy with rohloff and alfine 7. Alfine 7 too much resistance in the hub. Rohloff much better, but still not near chain+derailleur. I do like the looks of the belt much better and the fact these are allmost maintenance free.
Morto Pesko please bear in mind that geared hubs and belts become more efficient as they wear in but the chain & cassette start at their most efficient and then wear down.
Did you get one to review? Or just get in on the priority scene? How are they? I think it's so weird to take out the frame to change the belt. I bet its smooth tho.
First, you would do it in about once a year if you commute every day; it depends on the bike, it might be not a big deal. I shipped my priority continuum back because it's extremely difficult to quickly speed up. and it is a critical issue because some times I want to cross an intersection on a 4th line street. Priority bicycles, however, are very nice they always will run the extra mile to make you happy. Belt driven bikes are good for commuting, touring, and probably for mount biking, but don't expect that they would be faster than top-notch road bikes. Remember: a hub weight alone is 3-6 lbs.
The belt doesn't make it slower, but a belt requires internal hub gearing, which is heavier than a derailleur, which means it's theoretically slower. but on a commuter bike, it maybe worth the trade off.
I am not sure about a practical application of a belt drive really. Maybe a place where getting a bike serviced is really difficult to find, a place where commercial population is really limited. For normal people chain is the best. I don't mind buying chain every two years if at all it gets to that point. Though, I have seen chains lasting longer than that if one is using bike largely for commuting (No recreational activities). Otherwise, looking at the cost of belt, the hub, frame, I am really better off with traditional chains on an E-bike.
So how hard is it to change a tire when you get a flat? I'd assume that you would have to carry a pair of wrenches with you since there is no quick release option.
On my Schindelhauer you just need a hex wrench. The tension of the belt is adjusted by moving the rear triangle or (on BMC, Cube etc) the eccentric bracket, and this adjustment is not affected by taking off the wheel. And since the belt is not dirty, it is actually easier to take the wheel off.
I live in a hilly NW Calgary. My commute home involves about 200M of climbing, some of the hills rather steep. Are the gear ratios in these internal hubs suited for climbing? Are internal hubs suited for cruising at 30KM/h on flats as well?
You can certainly get internal hubs with a wide range that *should* help you with both situations. It won’t be as wide a range as you can get with a derailleur, and it will probably cost more, but there will be other advantages, especially in the lower maintenance requirements.
I love how you keep asking if we hear the belt over the music.
I've actually heard it, sounded like a wind noise.
Let me offer a stronger opinion: For urban/commute use, belts are unbeatable. The low maintenance and the corollary of cleanliness for your clothes and possibly insides if you bring the bike in are huge. In theory a Dutch style enclosed chain could be a good option but belts are fantastic for this kind of use.
Belts are still filthy and will ruin your pants if you let them get chomped in there.
@@chalocolina3554 I've been riding a belt drive bike for ~4 years. The belt has remained clean (as clean as the bike is/isn't) There's no lubricant to attach to dirt (and be staining itself. So no real issue while riding and no contact stain from brushing up against a chain while walking, parking, etc. either.
Yes, in theory, one could get a pant leg caught between the belt and the cog. But I haven't even had a close call (and have had issues with chains many times over the years). Many come with belt guards to mitigate this as well. Unfortunately my current one (Scott Sub Speed 10) shipped with a plastic one that broke off (The Trek Soho that was stolen had a metal one)
it seems like they'd be better for the environment, too. Less fluids that end up in the soil and water as well as fewer chains in the dumps.
TBF, that can be somewhat solved with waxed chains.
@@neutronpcxt372 Imagine the glide of a waxed chain and the zero effort for years. 🙂
I've had an internal 7 speed hub for 17 years, year round commuting in Toronto, zero maintenance. The chain had to be tightened periodically due to stretching, and there's the chain rust. My next bike will be belt driven.
Love it!
I remember having a Giant mtb many years ago with the Shimano Nexus 7 hub if I remember correctly the hub have me hassle free maintenance for at least 10 years minimum before it broke down?
I got my first Gates belt drive x Nexus-7 about 18 months ago. If you are using an internal hub, there is no need to use anything but belt if buying a new bicycle. Before I bought it I thought it was a risk, but within weeks (even in spring) I was adapted and totally sold on belt for commuter bikes. I keep looking for problems. Have not found any. After more than a year of at least 150km/week, the only wear I can find is the aluminum cog is slightly polished & shiny, no signs of advanced wear needing replacement (see Gates documentation). I think it will take years to accumulate enough wear. Clean with old toothbrush and soapy water. That is all. Love it.
@Kevin Goetz never.
I've daily driven a belt for 4 years now and I've to say my bicycle has way more issues with the belt. My bicycle repair shop says I'm the only one, but I've ripped through 10 belts (replaced for free because of warranty), it tends to slip more than a regular chain and is more difficult to maintain. (I don't mind oiling my chain 4 times a year)
And when it comes to bikes it's relevant: I'm from the Netherlands.
The Dutch answer to the problem of oil on your pants is complete chain cases. They're reportedly heavy and still require internal gear hubs, but they apparently do the job, protecting the chain from the elements and minimizing the need to lube your chain.
One thing I think is safe to say is: *don't* buy a belt drive bike as your first. ("Entry-level" in marketing terms.) People who are new to biking will make adjustments as they figure out what they like and what they don't like. Belt drive bikes seem like a great long-term investment (if it's right for you), but one you gotta stick with once you have it.
I love the sound of the free wheel cog and the chain.
If you are seeking faster time in any type of riding, then get a chain. For everything else, belts should rule. If there were more belt drive bikes available, biking would be more popular because it really suits the needs of everyone except racers of any type.
Belts are cleaner and don't need as much maintenance, which is a big plus for me. The low noise level is just a bonus.
I love my belt drive bikes. First one was commuter road bike (Civia Bryant), was mainly interested in the low-maintenance aspect, but also wound up loving the quiet. Second one was an e-bike, having already been sold on the belt drive for commuting.
Definitely are some downsides. Efficiency issues don't bother me much; IGH is also much easier for commuting anyway, maintenance-wise. And it's not like I'm trying to win any races getting to/from work. Even less of an issue on the e-bike, where the motor overcomes whatever losses I'd otherwise have. But I will admit that the requirement for special frame design limits availability. Also, belt drive is a lot more finicky with respect to the alignment of the rear wheel. Between disc brakes and belt drive, any time the rear wheel has to be removed, there's a whole production getting everything lined up again and tensioned right.
By the way, while the frame does have to be designed for the belt drive, it's not true that the design must be a split frame. There are bikes with elevated/raised chain stays that also can accommodate a belt drive. In those examples, the belt doesn't pass through the space between the stays and seat tube
Another option involves a tensioner/idler on the frame to allow the whole belt to travel through the frame triangle above the chain stay.
Either way, there's no need for a break in the frame.
In spite of the modest disadvantages, for me a belt drive is the _only_ option for my cycling, which is primarily commuting with some recreation thrown in.
So what I'm hearing is if you're in a high corrosion environment (lots of mud, lots of salt on the roads for ice) belts can be super helpful.
I love belt drive. It's so smooth and quiet
I have an Ebike so it doesn't really matter too much to me which is better, but the editing alone deserves a like.
Like everyone has said: maintenance wise they're amazing. The payoff is weight of the internal hub gear. Friction: mostly from the belt entering and exiting the cog's teeth. To counter this, I've slightly loosened the belt, it does now occasionally slip when I'm on a very steep hill or taking off fast from a standstill.
But I ride with someone using a chain drive and I really notice their frequent oiling of the chain, the sound. It's a good reminder that the belt has definite high points.
I rode on a zinc coated chain through the winter previously and it doesn't last nearly as long as the belt drive, also it the chain stretches so much (internal 3 speeds seem to do that) that rust wasn't the reason I replaced it.
I think I’m falling in love with Priority bikes, hope you get the chance to review the Apollo I’d love your thoughts on it
...no noise, no maintenance, no greased pants, long life.....what else can I ask for !! Belt drive is the best.😊😊
I have a foot tambourine mounted to the seat of my bike, it makes noise whenever I hit a bump.
This alerts any convoy comrades immediately to bumpy terrain, as well it passively alerts nearby people I’m moving past.
An enclosed chain such as those found on Dutch Bikes have all the advantages of a belt drive, but don't require a special frame (but must be either single speed or internal geared).
It's bizarre to me that enclosed chains are so rare in North America.
@@Shifter_Cycling I have one, but I got that bike imported from the Netherlands.
I'm at 3 years with my Schindlehauer Friedrich XI. I have cycled 8,000 miles so far on th e one belt and I love it. The bike was chosen because it's my daily commute and I was tired of my bke being in the workshop. So this has Disc brake TRP Spyre cable disc brakes. I replace the pads once a year 3,000 miles. It has a built in dynamo, no lights to worry about they stay on the bike and don't need battery or charging,. It has an 11 gear internal hub. Drained and refilled once a year. And the belt which will be 9,000 miles used this year and I'm wondering if it should be changed just because I never want a break down on my bike (tyres are Schwalbe, Kevlar in the tyres) I fitted these in the first year. London roads, too much glass on a Monday morning. So the tyres have done maybe 7,000 and still don't need changing. So I bought for low maintenance and frankly I can pretty much get away with taking it to the workshop once a year, so long as they do all the work in one go. I love my belt. It's quiet.
I got a belt drive cargo bike a few months ago, and now I'm planning on replacing my daily bike with a belt drive bike as well. Absolutely love the belt drive.
Veercycle makes a belt drive conversion kit. Check them out. Kinda spendy but may be a good option for someone that wants a belt drive in their favorite bike.
Correct.
My winter bike is belt drive, we get a lot of rain and a bit of snow here so it's the perfect drive.
My other bikes are all chain.
I've got a center-track belt drive with an Alifine 11 IGH and I love it for all-weather riding. Zero hassles. That said when the weather is nice, I ride my single speed because she's more fun.
Isn't the required internal rear hub also a added advantage to the belt? Especially for Commuting and Winter riding where salted roads wreak havoc on all parts.
Yes
A like the idea of a belt drive for urban cycling for the being low maintenance, but a single speed chain and sprocket are still easier to degrease and clean than a full derailleur setup.
Definitely going to Gates Belt Drive for next eBike 👍🏾😊 Had enough of the greasy messy chains and derailleurs!! 😬🥵
I am swinging a mid-80s MTB rigid frame to to an internal hub for a dedicated winter bike. For that frame, a belt drive is out of the question but I still like watching the tech. I was following another UA-camr that rode a Priority prototype MTB with a Pinyon box and Gates belt drive 2/3 of the Great Divide MTB Route. I do not think he had to touch anything on the his fully loaded backpacking rig the entire trip.
I'm definitely hoping to get a belt drive when they become more ubiquitous and cheaper, that seems to be the only thing holding it back from being objectively superior for commuting.
What price point are you considering "cheap"? Walmart grade or lowest of the higher end ($500-$1000).
@@joellebrodeur1015 $200-300 for the whole bike.
@@MondeSerenaWilliams I feel like that's too cheap. I bought a 200 dollar bicycle and I regret it because I had to do plenty of stuff to make it actually good. For once, cheap bicycles use the worst bottom brackets that break down almost immediately if they ever see any dirt or dust or water. The general quality isn't that great either. The gear ratio is awful even for flat terrain. Better to pay at least 350 dollars and get something decent. Here in Russia, I can get a belt-drive bicycle with a 3-speed Shimano gear hub for just about that.
Seems like a straightforward flow chart: Are you buying/building an internal gear or ss hub that supports belts? If yes, are there split frames (or compatible suspension/dropouts) available in your preference/style? If yes, get it. The price pays for itself.
I have bought a belt drive bicicle (gates CDN). I love it. No more cleaning and lubricatibg chains and gears. No more dirt and road dust.
You forgot one plus side which I think is the most important at least I value it the most. It's that it does not strech. So you don't have to keep tensioning a chain at least once a month.
I just done 1000 miles and not lubed or adjusted the chain.
@@kevinmurtagh3434 I have to change chains more often than 1 tk miles, because I do not care if there is raining or no and I use to drive muddy roads. chain is dirty and I am to lazy to clean it. In bike repair shop are pointing at me and say: you have to buy belt drive bike. +/- 300 euros per year goes to maintenance.
This episode was off the chain.
Kevlar and graphene might be more flex and temperature tolerant. Chains should be made more from hollowed out titanium, it's also corrosion resistant and harder metal.
chain & singlespeed, possibly in some kind of enclosure if dirty town as it affords spending less time for cleaning and lubing chain. customizing gear ratio is important; belts do not let you have 46:19 for example. it's hard to find the parts (not only the belt but also the cogs) when they are worn out and they are not cheap. only if you live in a hilly area (frequently more than 10%) should you consider multispeed but if you want things complicated... get a rear motor hub (singlespeed is a beast for this) as it means zero maintenance and much less chain wear.
Sounds super worth it. Thank you
I got kalkhof endeavor 8 with belt drive last year, love it.
U forgot to mention 1 big drawback: DRAG!
I saw a video where the 2 were compared to each other, each drivetrain consisting of a bottom bracket and crank set, the respective connecting part and an unlaced rear hub. When the presenter gave each drivetrain a quick push the chain drive kept spinning for much longer than the belt drive which came to a stop almost immediately!
The explanation is simple: A belt is a single part and thus has to deform in order to move around the gears. A chain is made up of joints that take much less force to bend than the belt does to deform, so a chain is more efficient.
A well maintained chain is better, definitely. But your average commuter squeaks and grinds their way to work without ever bothering to grease or clean their chain or prevent it rusting. Belts are better for those people.
Most scientific tests attest an efficiency advantage of about 2% for a perfectly maintained chain over the belt. A badly maintained chain can quickly become less efficient. However, a bigger efficiency drag is using a geared hub, especially anything other than a Rohloff. An Enviolo, for example, loses more than 10 percentage points over Rohloff and derailleur! So if you want to use a chain because of the efficiency, you should also use a derailleur. Personally, I wouldn’t want to use either.
I'd wager that test wasn't representative of reality. The wattage loses in a chain increase with power transfer (friction in the links increases under tension), whereas the losses in a belt would tend to remain constant with increasing tension. There's a _small_ difference in efficiency but I it's not that noticeable.
Unless you're a serious "cat 6" racer on your commute the difference is too small to be worth considering.
ebikes make that minimal difference null and void
@@srobeck77 Efficiency losses with an ebike still mater. Will draw down your battery quicker and if you are going up a hill it will reduce your speed if you are the maximum torque of the motor
Let me know about your experience with belt drives. I'd love to hear other perspectives on this.
Zero maintenance bike. All weather bike. Now I have no excuse not to drive around city.
Belt drives are awesome!!!...If you are more on the noncompetetive side of cycling i would say. Since i worked as an bike courier during university (nearly 20 years ago) and needed sometimes 3 complete drivetrains per year i always searched for the "next step" in less mantainance and improved durability...so i went from a lot of mtb parts to an Rohloff Speedhub with an bmx chain wich was an eye opener back in the days!!!
5 years ago i purchased my first belt driven bike and got my second one two years ago...now i use a 29 er pinion-gates-mtb with this insane Lauf-fork wich is nearly maintanance free and an alfine11-gates-Urban/Gravelbike wich is also an silent dream (the Rohloffbike still exists but on my freeroller in the living room near the tv-set).
I think i will never switch back to an chain driven bike...belts are so quiet, they last forever, they are so much cleaner and they are safer!!! My kids use also belt drives and they love It to!
Greetings from Germany.
I had a Canyon Urban 5.0 for a few months. Loved the bike but I had to sell it because the gear range on the Nexus 8 hub was not wide enough (I do sportive riding g as well as commutes). During that time, and up to now (6 years in total) I've had a B'twin Tilt 7: a folding bike that I upgraded from 2-speed to Nexus 7. I am hopelessly in love with it. Unfortunately the aluminium frame is cracked so I have stopped using it. I am currently having a Gates belt drivetrain fitted on a Brompton. My conclusion is that I can't get away from belt drive, but it has to be for commutes only. For serious sporty rides, you will be limited by the performance of the internal hub gearing that is unavoidable with a belt...
My Cowboy bike has a Gates belt and I love it! I do clean it a bit every time I clean my bike but that’s very little maintenance. I’ve ridden 4000km and it still looks like new! And I don’t get grease on my pants, even when my pants go tangled up in the belt and crank it was fine.
Bike commuter and heart patient, therefore I’m testing all the e-bike options. I’ve owned old Porsche 944s with interference engines - carbon fiber belt every time thank you. Salutations de Montréal, Calgary guy. ;)
As a bike person I've got the bike for every reason and season and with my fleet is beginning to age out I'm looking at dumping every bike I own and getting all belt drive. Other than cost I can't see why anyone wouldn't switch.
Belt drives are fantastic and that is my committal answer. Just get a bike that was manufactured with belt drive in mind. Trek District 4 is an excellent commuter bike.
You could adapt a pre existing bike by having a double roller thing clamped really tight to the chainstay, and have one long belt and one short belt, and they can join on said roller. Or maybe the short belt can go upwards from the crank and the long belt can go back down towards the wheels so you can use water bottle braze ons or clamp it like a derailleur. At least that's what I can see working in my head. The pictures are always kinda incomplete and I sometimes miss things when multiple moving parts are introduced. Could be a fun project?
The pant grease thing is something i never realized until I started commuting daily….
1:46 What was the riding temp/temp the belt was designed for? Was this the stock belt on the Priority Continuum Onyx?
1:33 🤦♀️ For a second there
I thought it was my hair in front of my eyes
You forgot the number one advantage of a belt drive: “I can ride my bike without a chain!”
That joke aside, I got my belt-drive because, after I rode a Dahon for many years, I absolutely wanted a bike with a hub gear - to be able to switch gears just like that _while standing_ is invaluable, and I found myself overtaking mountainbikers uphill, because all it takes me to switch gear is to not pedal for a split second, push the gear lever, and on I go with full force, while said mountainbikers lose much more inertia/energy with their traditional derailleurs, which simply take much longer to switch.
That the bike came with a belt-drive was just the icing on the cake, and the only disadvantage I noticed was that in earlier times, when I slowly advanced on pedestrians, they could hear the rattling of the chain, now I have to call them to ask them to step to the side for a moment, _because they literally can't hear my bike approaching._
The low maintenance is a bonus, yes, but the biggest win is the complete lack of dirty black oil. It is a weird feeling when you think you forgot something only to remember that, no, you don't have to sleeve up your trouser leg, because there is simply no chain to soil it.
Would I recommend a belt-drive? Yes, but the hub-gear that comes with it is the actual win.
I would think about getting a belt drive, but yeah definitely they're expensive, and I don't really want to buy a whole new bike. I was thinking about it when I bought an ebike recently, but I just couldn't commit the extra $1k or whatever to get an internal hub + belt drive system
I guess if you're picking your times to ride more carefully, and avoiding rain and mud, there'd be far less to worry about for dirt, and filth, and rust with a normal chain. I don't have to clean mine that often. But I suppose if it's snow on the ground all the time, then to avoid that you'd be driving your car for months! Here we get snow (at 5000' ASL) but it's normally just for a few days at a time.
The issue is really the cost and availability. For most people a normal chain that you clean and lube is probably fine.
One small correction, there actually is a belt that can come apart... See on veercycle.com
Thanks for sharing.
I replace all of my bike's steel chains with stainless steel chains. That way I don't have any problems with rusting from the salt slush in the winters.
Stainless steel still rusts (just takes longer) and so does the sprockets. why u lie?
Is this what the Priority 600 is?
Belt drives do break, they also squeak when dirty, I have seen bars of soap used to remedy the speaking. My singlespeed is silent and has a perfect chainline. A rear internal hub such as a Shimano Nexus has an internal friction that robs power. If you're riding a Priority Bike with the internal gearing and wish to change to a lower gear, then a new cog and belt may be necessary.
The frames used on the Carbon belt bikes usually have a rear stay that seperates, because the belt does not seperate as a chain does, there are no links.
Watching Ryan Van Duzer on UA-cam sees him carrying a spare belt, as do other belt users on that channel.
So, I couldn't upgrade my present bike to a carbon belt without taking a hacksaw to the rear triangle.
I see the Carbon belt as more expensive, less efficient, heavier and less
adaptable, and you are less likely to find a Carbon belt at bike shops or a Wal*Mart type of store.
I do enjoy your videos.
Shimano linkglide is a good contender and affordable.
Ps. With modern Shimano chains you don't need it to clean it all the time. Just run it thru a cloth, reapply quality lube, let it dry for 2 hours if you can and you're ready to go for another 500 kilometers.
Why the wishy, washing take? I'll fix it: belt driven is better in every way except for upfront costs. Superior technology always works that way. Nuff said....
Cheers. I'm going Belt! For an eBike.
Sadly, belt-drives and hub gears are basically non-existent here in the Philippines, or if they are, would be expensive. Would've made for a great commuter for a rainy country like mine.
Belt drives are expensive everywhere because one company has that niche cornered. And don’t lie.. I know the Cannondale Bad Boy 1 exists in the Phillippines. I was just watching reviews
@@zureai That, ADO Air (an ebike), and sometimes used Japanese bikes. Again, basically non-existent.
There's a better solution: waxed chains. Increases longevity significantly compared to oiled chains and like belts, does away with the mess. Like with anything there are tradeoffs and drawbacks. Belts will still last longer than a waxed chain and have less maintenance. But a waxed chain with the two pot method is still easier to maintain than an oiled one, by skipping the cleaning step. Especially so if drip wax is used in between hot wax baths.
With a chain system you have a wide range of gears that aid you to tackle steep climbs and go fast on straight roads. Do the belt drives have the same level of advantage ? I mean a 11x36 cassette gives you a wide range in comparison.
Between my 2 cassetts I have 21 different gear combinations. Of that I use 7. Its not about having lots of options but having the right Options.
I don't understand why everybody is saying belt drive needing only low maintenance. When you get a flat tire, changing tires for belt drive should be more complicated.
I wonder why don't they make belt drives for recumbent bikes/trikes/quads/velomobiles?
Aren’t those chains 3x longer than regular bikes? I’d bet that no one would want to buy a belt at $40x3 lol.
The fact that belt drive-train needs a special frame, makes the chain bike not being convertible to a belt drive-train one.
I think, the middle ground would be to go with a think chain and a hub gear, so that we can have a strong chain and also less maintenance gear system.
Its been a while, do you still mainly use a belt drive? How has that been for you if you do.
Just an idea for a follow-up video
I respect your work. But I'm down to one SS for commuting and recreation and it's going to take a cataclysmic event to get me to switch from a chain. I'm 64 so that SS might last me the balance of my life. Or not. I might lose a bet or need a 3 speed hub and have to do a new build. You never know. I still ride V brakes so I'm a troglodyte. Lol.
I've never had a chain break on me, I've had carbon belts break on me multiple times though and I keep my bicycle inside overnight and during work...
Swapping from a sirrus 14 speed to a cube 8 speed with belt hoping that the gears are enough
Have you or anyone seen a SS / Fixed Gear belt drive bike yet ?
It seems like that might bring the entry cost of owning a belt drive down measurably.
SS/FG belt drive bikes are niche product so no, they aren't significantly cheaper compared to IGH bikes unless you compare to bikes w/ Rohloff hub.
@@event4216
My SS - Fixed Langster with Keiren chain is unbreakable.
A bike messenger could hammer it daily & no worries.
KMC 710 - (Keiren) chain was $18 !
Once Shimano (IF ?) gets serious about marketing their 13 speed gearbox set up perhaps these benefits will come down to a reasonable price point.
Devoted super cyclists will pay $3000 + for bikes but NOT a wider public.
Most of my non-cyclist friends cannot swallow $1000, let alone $3000.
I still marvel at how relatively affordable chain - Cassette - Deraileur systems can be.
And maintained reasonably.
But I sure wouldn't mind the better tech of IGH / Gearbox.
Someday....
Priority Cycles Coast. 500 ish.
I have a Schindelhauer Siegfried single speed bike. I absolutely love it; fun, silent and zero maintenance.
Belt compared to chain is a minimum difference in efficiency loss. It's when paired with an internal hub (not Rohloff) that you'll see losses of above 10% (depending on gear selected).
does a single speed belt drive bike then avoid that 10 percent hit?
@@timothyflynn1758 Single speed bikes are something like 97% efficient. Chain drives are on average about 1% more efficient than a belt drive, so negligible.
I like the idea of a belt drive but no one sells a belt drive bike in the UK despite the bad weather.
Ado sell ebikes with a belt
You don't need a LBS to do belt maintenance! Just read the instructions from Gates and do it yourself. If you can maintain a chain, a belt is simpler. I have both. I definitely use the belt drive commuter bike in the rain (when you are not racing anyway) and there is simply no comparison. Most hardcore trekking bikers use belt drive + Rolloff internal drive hubs and easily put 10~20k/km on the belts between maintenance.. They are robust as hell. Edit. see this : ua-cam.com/video/8SKeQ6B2UTk/v-deo.html
wow, never heard of that belt thing, its obviously better than chain..all my bikes had chains..but yes they happen to get off the gear....but whats the warranty that the belt won't get off the gear thingy? I happen to have that issue a LOOOT..its sooo pissing off..
In the UK I was recommended by the bike shops not to buy the internal hub belt drive as quote 'it's murder to fix' by the bike mechanics here
Belts require tension to work properly; bike hubs require lack of tension to work properly. Belt drives disassemble freewheels, trash axle bearings, and otherwise make your bike very sad unless you run them so loose that the belts self-destruct.
I've got a belt-drive-bike in November 2016. Almost 5 years and 11000km. I love the belt. Its absolutely great. Okay you must accept the internal gear hub.
You tell the truth! Internal hubs are usually heavier than regular derailleur setups. You can't use them on road bikes. You can't use them to exercise at home. I have two belt drive bikes one-speed and 3-speed bikes
why can't you use them on road bike?
@@qui11 lolol. This was nuts. Of course you can.
@@qui11 - I think he means that it's just not as ideal for being real speedy with a load of gears and stuff.
by "heavier" u mean like 2 lbs? totally irrelevant.....
3lbs or more depends on rhe hub.
I didn’t understand what belt drive was until a passing sports car with a broken door mirror caught my belt and I was suddenly doing 50 mph on my Dutch bike, but I can’t see it catching on.
I have no idea what u tried to type on in this very confusing story. It was like 3-4 different points going on with no breaks in thought with periods in between sentences. Try re-doing this like how you would talk in real life. You wouldnt barf out an entire story like that in one endless confusing sentence.
You've got a Priority brand model. I know that since I saw the label name in another video. Which model do you have? I have a feel for the Dutchboy style for aesthetics and I like it. Done very little thinking on these, and more than anything, rationalizing one as any new bike, would be the hard part. I sure did it with a lot of handguns though!
If you haven't figured out, it's Onyx Continuum. More of a hybrid bike than a Dutch coaster. I didn't like that it doesn't allow for bigger than 32mm wheels with fenders.
You meant that's the model for the Priority bike he ran in this? Don't you kind of have to accept those kinds of size limits with fenders? 32C tires is kind of the largest for road bikes a lot of times. 28C seems to be the best size for me when you assume gravel at corners and random things like that.
Dude, I was hoping you would say "Buy it now". Now I am back to "not sure"
Hi could you please give more info on the belt that broke in the cold, and the replacement that doesn’t..?
There are two types of gates belts: CDN and CDX. CDN is the cheaper one with a minimum temperature of -20°C while CDX can be used until -53°C. The price difference is around 20€.
I’m still insecure/ confused which one should i get. I don’t know if i should get a bike with a chain or a belt drive
Same. Coin toss
obviously belt, except for higher upfront costs. nuff said
Do we have to lube the belt with silicon Gesese?
But isn’t the motor louder than the chain anyway, making it a moot point?
There super expensive I the Uk were looking at £300, were a chain is £16
My priority bike is on order. I've only been biking for 2.5 months and I loathe chain drive with derailleur. My current bike is pure junk with clunky shifting, so I didn't hesitate on upgrading to a belt drive bike. Never looking back.
the extreme high cost of a Priority ebike ($3200) is causing me to hesitate. but other than that, i love every feature of them.
@@srobeck77 actually, their bikes start at $549 (Coast and Classic Plus). They're not super expensive. The price you quoted is for the Apollo or 600x gravel bikes.
@@joellebrodeur1015 the $549 doesnt have the belt instead of a chain like how the post said he wanted. so the $549 bike is irrelevant
@@srobeck77 I don't care for eBikes. For a belt drive at an entry level price that has a reliable, brand name drivetrain (Gates), you'll be hard pressed to find anything less than $549.
I mean, there are chain covers which reduce maintenance very significantly, entirely eliminate tattooing. Derailleurs for commuting is silly. Get a dutch bike!
Hi Sir, what about chainless bicycle?? Have you heard it??
Yes, they are called penny-farthings! You have to get used to mount and unmount them and they need to be made for your leg length and you don‘t have any gears, but their „drive train“ is incredibly efficient. Sometimes I see people riding them in my neighborhood!
Strangely enough, my chain bicycle makes so little sound that the tires are louder than it
@@GIwillo Thank you Netscape, I'll always miss you from xp
I'm looking into the new Roadster v2 gravel ebike. Do you think it's worth it for a comuter bike? My commute is about 11miles not so smooth roads, thus the gravel, but mainly Flats.
No
is it over 10 times more durable? because you can buy over 10 chaines of a price of on belt and you can get chaines from everywhere
My regular belt bike makes noises on low gear. Anyone can help me fix it? It’s not the belt tightness.
I've had this bike for several days now and I have not had problems with it so far. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxn_jUDSlprMIeubd9rHdEAnv59nKfjcKv The handlebars, seat+ seat post, pedals, and front wheel were detached for shipping. It was easy to reassemble, but I did need to go out and buy a set of tools in the metric system to reattach parts. Use lubricant (WD-40 works well) on screw threads and hinges before re-assembling.(NOTE: Do Not Throw Away Any Of The Packaging Until After Assembly Because Some Of The Packaging Contains Small Parts That You Will Need To Reattach Parts!!!)Took it to a bike kitchen for fine tuning afterwards, and for refilling the tires (they'd lost some air during shipping) and then practiced riding on it. It fits me perfectly at 5'4" with the seat at the lowest possible setting--would not recommend for anyone shorter, as it may be difficult to get on and off the bike without assistance of some kind. The aluminum body is beautifully welded together--the only thing that irks me somewhat is some of the plastic parts, but oh well. Not too experienced with bikes (haven't owned one in years) but if you're not willing or are unable to spend $600+ on another bike, I would say this is a good way to get started. Just check everything before you go out riding--air levels in the tires, wobbling of the seat, handlebars, or pedals, loose screws/parts, you know, as it will happen over time. Common sense. Good luck to ya, and hope my review helps.
Maybe not have background bass beats music blasting when you want to viewers to hear the difference between the chain vs belt scenes?
I’m a lone goose! Haha
Great video. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Main question is: which one is faster for a road bike? I tried the Cannondale Bad Boy, but to me it had to much resistance in the hub. What's your experience?
In most cases, I'd expect a chain to be faster because you could use a derailleur, which is usually lighter, can usually accommodate more gears and, therefore, faster.
Morto Pesko the most efficient transmission are in order:
1. Cassette + chain + derailleur (caveats: when new, clean, well greased and in straight line)
2. Rohloff internally geared hub combined with a chain or a belt
3. Pinion internally geared mid mounted transmission box combined with a chain/belt
4. Vario 380 internal geared hub combined with a chain/belt
5. Alfine internally geared hub combined with a chain/belt
Also, internally geared hubs need a few hundred miles to break-in and increase their efficiency.
@@ruirodtubeThanks for the information. I tried both Cannondale bad boy with rohloff and alfine 7. Alfine 7 too much resistance in the hub. Rohloff much better, but still not near chain+derailleur. I do like the looks of the belt much better and the fact these are allmost maintenance free.
Morto Pesko please bear in mind that geared hubs and belts become more efficient as they wear in but the chain & cassette start at their most efficient and then wear down.
@@ruirodtube Thanks again. I surely will keep that in mind. Think I have to do some more test rides.
Nice job!
Did you get one to review? Or just get in on the priority scene? How are they? I think it's so weird to take out the frame to change the belt. I bet its smooth tho.
First, you would do it in about once a year if you commute every day; it depends on the bike, it might be not a big deal. I shipped my priority continuum back because it's extremely difficult to quickly speed up. and it is a critical issue because some times I want to cross an intersection on a 4th line street. Priority bicycles, however, are very nice they always will run the extra mile to make you happy. Belt driven bikes are good for commuting, touring, and probably for mount biking, but don't expect that they would be faster than top-notch road bikes. Remember: a hub weight alone is 3-6 lbs.
@@efimlos really its slower.. and because of the belt? That sucks if your about speed.
The belt doesn't make it slower, but a belt requires internal hub gearing, which is heavier than a derailleur, which means it's theoretically slower. but on a commuter bike, it maybe worth the trade off.
@@JohnSmith-yw4bhonce you speed up it is not so bad. However, my next bike will have a chain.
it is because of weight. Also if gears ratio is a matter it is also a problem.
Love the video
I am not sure about a practical application of a belt drive really. Maybe a place where getting a bike serviced is really difficult to find, a place where commercial population is really limited. For normal people chain is the best. I don't mind buying chain every two years if at all it gets to that point. Though, I have seen chains lasting longer than that if one is using bike largely for commuting (No recreational activities). Otherwise, looking at the cost of belt, the hub, frame, I am really better off with traditional chains on an E-bike.
So how hard is it to change a tire when you get a flat? I'd assume that you would have to carry a pair of wrenches with you since there is no quick release option.
On my Schindelhauer you just need a hex wrench. The tension of the belt is adjusted by moving the rear triangle or (on BMC, Cube etc) the eccentric bracket, and this adjustment is not affected by taking off the wheel. And since the belt is not dirty, it is actually easier to take the wheel off.
Squirt the green slime inside your tires to avoid those flats
can you get a threaded fixed gear cog?
I live in a hilly NW Calgary. My commute home involves about 200M of climbing, some of the hills rather steep. Are the gear ratios in these internal hubs suited for climbing? Are internal hubs suited for cruising at 30KM/h on flats as well?
You can certainly get internal hubs with a wide range that *should* help you with both situations. It won’t be as wide a range as you can get with a derailleur, and it will probably cost more, but there will be other advantages, especially in the lower maintenance requirements.
www.rohloff.de/en/
pinion.eu/
@@Shifter_Cycling ranges for German hubs are from 535% through 600% to 636% for rohloff and pinion P12 & P18 repectively
can you have a belt drive with a three by front derailer ?
No
Looking forward to trying this new tech out. Love your videos thank you. I would love to not get chain tatoos happns all the time!!!