Love how you solved a complex machining problem with simple tooling. You're inspiring others by demonstrating that they don't have to have a huge shop and all kinds of fancy equipment, jigs and machines that only perform one function.
If you would sell the sheet metal that is not possible for the average mechanic to make as a DIY package, then you would have a thriving business. Many people would like to build themselves, but the sheet metal is always a problem. And which DIY can or has an english wheel. My compliments for what you have made
You never cease to amaze me. Even something as simple as clamping the torque tube between to angle iron to weld is filed away in my brain. You are teaching a bunch of old dogs new tricks!
I am, simply put, amazed! I have watched many of your videos and am still in awe of your approach to each part of this build. As a machinist and engineer of over 40 years I can see, while watching your videos, that I have a tendency to over-think things. Thank you for sharing these videos as it gives me hope for our young people today.
FYI to anyone who wants to recut their own. When we recut splines , on the third pass we normally use 1/8 inch end mill on centerline or equivalent for the width you need. We run into not having the correct woodruff cutter width, or having to buy multiples.
Nice job, great to see someone else that bevels the joint before welding, i see too many here on UA-cam here who just cut and but weld without beveling anything, hope you plan to go back to the hard steel pins in the drive coupling instead of bolts to keep the balance, also, one last thing, with shortening the driveshaft and torque tube i hope you dont run into angularity issues , for a given suspension travel the now shorter setup will have a greater angularity.
Great use of your rotary table. Next time you might want to consider an end Mill that has more flutes / cutting edges. When you're doing a spline in steel.
Know what I like about you. Your the type to ask yourself how to do something. Not if you can. The type I have full faith could do anything they wanted. Too many people ask how to do things these days instead of just figuring it out and doing it.
Out standing job on the drive train. Really like the way you look at the problem, figure out a solution and then take us along as you do the work. You have a lot of knowledge, skills and abilities for a Man of your age
Excellent as always. The Riley 9 Brooklands I am building has a very similar torque tube arrangement. The ball is on the end of the tube and the rear of the gearbox makes up one half of the socket and the hand and foot brake mounting mechanism makes up the rear half. You fit brass shims between the two to get the right clearance in the joint. The coupling on the end of the driveshaft is pretty much the same as yours. On the Riley it's called the muff coupling and connects the drive shaft to the diff pinion gear. I had my tube and driveshaft shortened by an engineer who deals with 4WD vehicles usually and he did a great job at a good price. On the Riley 9 the rear of the tube is an interference fit into the front cover of the differential then riveted in place. Only having a tiny lathe I wasn't able to turn down the cut off end of the tube to fit by myself!
I love your amazing metal work. And absolutely love this build. You're doing an amazing job. Keep it up 👍This Old Tony has a great video on cutting splines like this and mentioned something about leaving the end of the cut square like that. Something about possibly to reduce stress cracks.
I like what you did there with the milling the splines and how you are taking the time that is needed to do the job right from what I can see, wish you the best on this and all your projects...
You obviously really think about each task before tackling it. And your methods always seem to be spot on. You have a lot of skills and talent to devise ways to accomplish what you want. Thumbs Up!
With that 6 cylinder, I have a feeling you're building a small Rocket Ship. Absolutely cannot wait. ;-p So interesting following you every step of the way.
desde Argentina te felicito es un gran trabajo y mucho oficio yoreparo trasmiciones automaticas y contrui un CURVED DASH 1903 durante 21 años y lo empese alos 45 años y fabrique absulatamente todo en el taller hasta los faroles de kerosene tenes un gran Don que nos regalo DIOS APLAUSOS DESDE AQUI
Very well thought out and executed ! Great machining skills, especially for such a young guy! The future of the hobby appears to be in really good hands. Thanks for sharing.
Excellent job as usual. I'm looking forward to how you'll tackle the shift lever and it's forward placement. Always impressed with your welding skills. Keep up the good work.
If I remember correctly, the old Ford torque-tubes had an A-frame from the ball-joint to the outer ends of the rear axles - the purpose was to stiffen up the whole rear axle assembly and prevent longitudinal movement of the rear axle on acceleration & braking, not just relying on the transverse spring. So I think you need a control arm coming forward from the outboard of each rear axle to a pivot point inline with the ball-joint on the torque tube... OR a Watts Linkage to constrain the movement of the back axle to a vertical direction - your Panhard rod does the same thing in the transverse direction.
Really enjoy watching what you are doing I tried to do a similar axle drive and found i kept getting excessive wear because the parts were not heat treated
It's nice to see that you are incorporating old technology with the new. I saw a model A Ford rear at the scrap yard that someone had used to build a farm trailer. It's a shame that people don't care about history. Do you happen to have an old model a clutch disc around? I'm going to use an old transmission from a model A, and need this for my power input.i would also be interested in what you would charge to make me a stub shaft for the output side from the u joint.
Hey Sir. Hope your 4th of July was good. I have a question of course. Why not weld the spline and coupler together for extra strength? So we will have a chevy transmission matted to a ford engine I see. And maybe put a grease fitting on that dome thing where the drive shaft goes into the transmission, so that you can keep it lubricated. Thanks for the great video.
Excellent job on the re-splining. I did a similar job recently but used a tubular driveshaft so I avoided any re-splining. I think the method you chose worked very well. A couple of comments, if I may. 1, the relatively short length of the driveshaft made it fit on the milling table. Most times the shaft is quite a lot longer so holding it and indexing it would mean some imaginative solution (which I'm sure you could handle). 2, I'm not sure if that shaft is like the ones I have, but the shaft diameter is smaller along most of it's length and only comes up to full diameter at the splined parts and in the middle where a support bearing is. Is your shaft slightly undersize where the splines have been cut? I don't think it is a problem, but couldn't quite see from the video. 3, Using a high tensile bolt is not a great idea. They can fatigue and break. You are better off using a pin of relatively malleable steel and then putting something like a hose clip over it to stop the ends falling out if it breaks. I use two to maintain the balance. 4, As I said, I did a similar job recently and covered it in a video series. I show some alignment checking techniques which may be interesting to you as they do not require any specialised equipment. You might want to check it out. Thanks for showing the re-splining process, I might give it a go this way if I need to do the job again. All the best, Mart in England.
Please make sure to refit the two rear radius rods as they are designed for triangulation. Otherwise you are only relaying on where the torque tube bolts to the rear centre section to hold all the stresses of the rear axle.
Traditionally, a cigarette paper is used to zero out the endmill, it's much thinner than regular printing paper (about 22 microns, or just over half a thou vs 100 microns or 2.5 thou).
Am I missing something? Why would you want a torque tube, seems like an old solution for weak chassis. This looks pretty substantial for what it is. Also is the pivot point for the rear arms at the ball join? Could see it pulling itself apart if not
done a realy nice job on cutting those splines , never seen it done that way but it saves you making a custom milling bit mightve used a pipecutter on that torque tube though d1qgi7ksrq21ya.cloudfront.net/media/catalog/product/cache/53f7e7bf262f1a75275189d121ad7ff7/d/s/dsc_0850_1_16.jpg makes a straighter cut its a nice setup , you only need a panhard bar or a watts linkage to keep the rear suspension in place under the car (panhard bar is more period correct i think )
Love how you solved a complex machining problem with simple tooling. You're inspiring others by demonstrating that they don't have to have a huge shop and all kinds of fancy equipment, jigs and machines that only perform one function.
If you would sell the sheet metal that is not possible for the average mechanic to make as a DIY package, then you would have a thriving business. Many people would like to build themselves, but the sheet metal is always a problem. And which DIY can or has an english wheel. My compliments for what you have made
You never cease to amaze me. Even something as simple as clamping the torque tube between to angle iron to weld is filed away in my brain. You are teaching a bunch of old dogs new tricks!
You never cease to amaze me. This build is definitely one of the best on YT. Billy J..... Australia.
It is like watching a masterclass in problem-solving. An amazing young man.
Figuring out how to accomplish what you want from what you have on hand. Gotta love it!
I really don't understand why people put a thumbs down. This was great to watch. I guess they are jealous that they can't do this kind of cool work.
I would sugest changing those bolts to pins on the drive shaft to keep it all in balance.
I am, simply put, amazed! I have watched many of your videos and am still in awe of your approach to each part of this build. As a machinist and engineer of over 40 years I can see, while watching your videos, that I have a tendency to over-think things. Thank you for sharing these videos as it gives me hope for our young people today.
Glad you like them!
Thats going to be a amazing car, hard to tell from a genuine vintage.
I'm always greatly pleased when I see there is a new post here. And I am never disappointed with the content.
Intelligence in abundance,from this young bloke...Cheers
Thanks again for taking the time to shot and edit the videos for your fans! I am excited for every new episode
FYI to anyone who wants to recut their own. When we recut splines , on the third pass we normally use 1/8 inch end mill on centerline or equivalent for the width you need. We run into not having the correct woodruff cutter width, or having to buy multiples.
I really like the way you do things. Cutting the splines was a special treat. Thank you.
Nice job, great to see someone else that bevels the joint before welding, i see too many here on UA-cam here who just cut and but weld without beveling anything, hope you plan to go back to the hard steel pins in the drive coupling instead of bolts to keep the balance, also, one last thing, with shortening the driveshaft and torque tube i hope you dont run into angularity issues , for a given suspension travel the now shorter setup will have a greater angularity.
Great use of your rotary table. Next time you might want to consider an end Mill that has more flutes / cutting edges. When you're doing a spline in steel.
One other thought, if you switch to using rolling papers, they are consistently one thou thick
Know what I like about you. Your the type to ask yourself how to do something. Not if you can. The type I have full faith could do anything they wanted. Too many people ask how to do things these days instead of just figuring it out and doing it.
Great to have you watching!
@@MacroMachines bet it’s not the intention but that things probably gonna be quite fast when done. It’s not gonna weigh anything. Should be fun to see
Out standing job on the drive train. Really like the way you look at the problem, figure out a solution and then take us along as you do the work. You have a lot of knowledge, skills and abilities for a Man of your age
That was a really good demonstration of lateral thinking, well done!
Proof that really nice work can be accomplished with ingenuity and less than optimal shop machines.
Excellent as always. The Riley 9 Brooklands I am building has a very similar torque tube arrangement. The ball is on the end of the tube and the rear of the gearbox makes up one half of the socket and the hand and foot brake mounting mechanism makes up the rear half. You fit brass shims between the two to get the right clearance in the joint. The coupling on the end of the driveshaft is pretty much the same as yours. On the Riley it's called the muff coupling and connects the drive shaft to the diff pinion gear. I had my tube and driveshaft shortened by an engineer who deals with 4WD vehicles usually and he did a great job at a good price. On the Riley 9 the rear of the tube is an interference fit into the front cover of the differential then riveted in place. Only having a tiny lathe I wasn't able to turn down the cut off end of the tube to fit by myself!
Great work.
Killer job as usual like I said before your a talented young dude! keep up the good work!!
I love your amazing metal work. And absolutely love this build. You're doing an amazing job. Keep it up 👍This Old Tony has a great video on cutting splines like this and mentioned something about leaving the end of the cut square like that. Something about possibly to reduce stress cracks.
I csn never understand when people actually take the time to "thumbs down" these better. This build is awesome.
Always so satisfy to watch your videos. Such a creative and skilled person. Thank you for sharing with us
Can't wait to see this on the road. Great job.
I like what you did there with the milling the splines and how you are taking the time that is needed to do the job right from what I can see, wish you the best on this and all your projects...
Really cool, great work... plan+ execute= well done result, wtg!
Such great craftsmanship as always!!!!!!!! This is an awesome build!!
Thanks for sharing!
This is my favorite channel. Everytime i wacht your videos, i want to get my own projects done. Greetings from the other side of the ocean!
Great stuff..Brat..Great to see you again.
You obviously really think about each task before tackling it. And your methods always seem to be spot on. You have a lot of skills and talent to devise ways to accomplish what you want. Thumbs Up!
Always excited to see a new episode, cant wait to see the smile on your face when you fire her up for the first time, getting closer!!
Nice work. Great presentation!
Love the spline work
Good stuff Vince. Been watching since the days of realsteel1776, and I'm excited to see this project come together as much as your other projects.
With that 6 cylinder, I have a feeling you're building a small Rocket Ship. Absolutely cannot wait. ;-p So interesting following you every step of the way.
love the series, keep up the good work.
Very well done,thanks.
Glad to see the video. I'm getting ready for surgery.
Best wishes on your surgery.
@@esqueue thank you
You are going places ! Keep the good work up.
Looks great and looks to function very well.
Mike
You really do nice work!!
Thank you!
Love this series!!! ❤️
Love the series. Always nice to see another video
Enjoy all your vids seems just like you started and now ready for engine it seems.PS Please no more ads
Excellent.
Labor of love .much respect 🤙🏻
desde Argentina te felicito es un gran trabajo y mucho oficio yoreparo trasmiciones automaticas y contrui un CURVED DASH 1903 durante 21 años y lo empese alos 45 años y fabrique absulatamente todo en el taller hasta los faroles de kerosene tenes un gran Don que nos regalo DIOS APLAUSOS DESDE AQUI
Very well thought out and executed ! Great machining skills, especially for such a young guy! The future of the hobby appears to be in really good hands. Thanks for sharing.
Very impressive work!
You Amaze Me Young Sir !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Amazing creativity, this channel deserves a million subscribers. Really enjoying your videos. Wish I could give you more than one thumbs up 👍.
Excellent job as usual. I'm looking forward to how you'll tackle the shift lever and it's forward placement. Always impressed with your welding skills. Keep up the good work.
Another Great video, you never cease to amaze me with your creativity and skill! keep them coming.
Excellent..
That was fast it’s looking great
If I remember correctly, the old Ford torque-tubes had an A-frame from the ball-joint to the outer ends of the rear axles - the purpose was to stiffen up the whole rear axle assembly and prevent longitudinal movement of the rear axle on acceleration & braking, not just relying on the transverse spring.
So I think you need a control arm coming forward from the outboard of each rear axle to a pivot point inline with the ball-joint on the torque tube... OR a Watts Linkage to constrain the movement of the back axle to a vertical direction - your Panhard rod does the same thing in the transverse direction.
You are a genius.
Quality stuff as usual 💪🏼👌🏼👍🏼
Looking better and better
Awesome work !
Awesome!
Well done...!👍
Really enjoy watching what you are doing
I tried to do a similar axle drive and found i kept getting excessive wear because the parts were not heat treated
It's nice to see that you are incorporating old technology with the new. I saw a model A Ford rear at the scrap yard that someone had used to build a farm trailer. It's a shame that people don't care about history. Do you happen to have an old model a clutch disc around? I'm going to use an old transmission from a model A, and need this for my power input.i would also be interested in what you would charge to make me a stub shaft for the output side from the u joint.
good job
Superb
Not gonna say what 7:30 looks like don't want our over loads getting mad 😉👌
Hey Sir. Hope your 4th of July was good. I have a question of course. Why not weld the spline and coupler together for extra strength? So we will have a chevy transmission matted to a ford engine I see. And maybe put a grease fitting on that dome thing where the drive shaft goes into the transmission, so that you can keep it lubricated. Thanks for the great video.
Excellent job on the re-splining. I did a similar job recently but used a tubular driveshaft so I avoided any re-splining. I think the method you chose worked very well. A couple of comments, if I may. 1, the relatively short length of the driveshaft made it fit on the milling table. Most times the shaft is quite a lot longer so holding it and indexing it would mean some imaginative solution (which I'm sure you could handle). 2, I'm not sure if that shaft is like the ones I have, but the shaft diameter is smaller along most of it's length and only comes up to full diameter at the splined parts and in the middle where a support bearing is. Is your shaft slightly undersize where the splines have been cut? I don't think it is a problem, but couldn't quite see from the video. 3, Using a high tensile bolt is not a great idea. They can fatigue and break. You are better off using a pin of relatively malleable steel and then putting something like a hose clip over it to stop the ends falling out if it breaks. I use two to maintain the balance. 4, As I said, I did a similar job recently and covered it in a video series. I show some alignment checking techniques which may be interesting to you as they do not require any specialised equipment. You might want to check it out. Thanks for showing the re-splining process, I might give it a go this way if I need to do the job again. All the best, Mart in England.
Please make sure to refit the two rear radius rods as they are designed for triangulation. Otherwise you are only relaying on where the torque tube bolts to the rear centre section to hold all the stresses of the rear axle.
That was pretty cool, I always wondered how to make splines. But don't you then have to heat treat the splines? To harden them?
This driveshaft didn't seem to have any heat treat to the splines, so I wasn't worried about that
Very good 👊✌️🇧🇷
Traditionally, a cigarette paper is used to zero out the endmill, it's much thinner than regular printing paper (about 22 microns, or just over half a thou vs 100 microns or 2.5 thou).
Why did being thinner matter. You compensate for the thickness anyway
@@sexyfacenation Only if you know the thickness!
tidy work
Did you build the rotary table? The speedster is looking good.
Where are the radius rods?or are you using a pan hard bar. I can’t remember.
You should be using oil or coolant, not doing so is a good way to knacker you nice new cutters especially on carbon steel.
This must be how Ed Roth constructed the Outlaw drive train except he used a 39 Ford transmission.
I've done this without using special spline cutter. Only a Woodruff Keyseat Cutter does a better job than an end mill.
Will the driveshaft and u-joint be balanced at some point?
most likely not
👍😎👍
Between you and DYI from eu, you put all the "ASSEMBLERS" to shame !!!
Could you make an adapter to mate a golf cart electric motor to a Model A differential?
Why not cut excess out of centre and weld shaft together cutting and balancing on lathe?
11:08 What podcast were you listening to?
haha pretty sure that's Star Talk with neil degrasse tyson
Sweeeet!
did you check if the splines are hardened
they're not
Not criticism, but did you mean boar tail in your title?
Yea wot he said
Am I missing something? Why would you want a torque tube, seems like an old solution for weak chassis. This looks pretty substantial for what it is.
Also is the pivot point for the rear arms at the ball join? Could see it pulling itself apart if not
done a realy nice job on cutting those splines , never seen it done that way but it saves you making a custom milling bit
mightve used a pipecutter on that torque tube though d1qgi7ksrq21ya.cloudfront.net/media/catalog/product/cache/53f7e7bf262f1a75275189d121ad7ff7/d/s/dsc_0850_1_16.jpg
makes a straighter cut
its a nice setup , you only need a panhard bar or a watts linkage to keep the rear suspension in place under the car (panhard bar is more period correct i think )
Boar-tail?
Pretty soon she'll make smoke. Maybe from the tires as well as the exhaust.
so the boat tail is becoming a boar tail ? lol cant wait for the pig snout !
Boar-tail or boat-tail?