Note: One of the caps needs adjustment there - barely hanging on, can you spot it? And... There's an issue I created there too - dealt with in Part 2, along with a kind of related fault too! When I said that version of "Kickstart" was setup on a 1200... Brain fart, I meant Workbench :o) When I said "dual Kickstart 3.1 / 2.0" - I meant to say "dual Kickstart 1.3 / 2.0"... Kickstart 1.3 is what you want for most compatibility with older games. Later games may have needed Kickstart 2.0 or greater.
Nice vid, this is how things should be done!! I picked up some 600s that have been "recapped", but nobody cleaned the elecrticlyte before or after, and soldered new caps on and left flux on the board too, with some soldered to the cans, a mess, pads and traces eaten. The audio caps are the most fun!
I usually desolder the RF modulator, audio jacks and the choke when recapping A600/1200s. Prevents a lot of melted plastics and you also get to clean up a lot gunk from under those components.
Nice video, thanks! Always fun to see people fixing Amiga 600’s. I got one new in 1993 and I still have it, recapped and upgraded of course. Great little machine even these days.
I should repeat on here that I'm normally a stickler for using ESD bags etc. But I didn't have any to hand, and it had taken me long enough procrastinating about what to put in the parcel, then getting it all wrapped up. If I had taken any longer, it would have still been sat here. lol The A600 mobo had been sat in a drawer for many years, and the keyboard in a tub in the loft space. IIRC, another friend sent me both items quite a long time ago, so I'm just glad they will get used.
28:00 LOL I remember now - A few years back, I was using this mobo to test an On-screen display thing, for the Gotek / HxC / FlashFloppy. With a small FPGA board, it would pull the Amiga RGB pins high or low. It worked quite well. (part of the reason for trying that, was that I kept seeing people cut big holes in their Amiga cases, to fit the LCD for the Gotek etc.) I could be wrong, but I think Keir added OSD support to the FlashFloppy firmware now, but possibly with an external board? I haven't looked at that project in a very long while.
Kapton tape on its own does not protect against transferring heat, its "heat resist ant properties" refer to the tape itself not deforming under heat. What I tend to do in these situation is to protect the plastic part with aluminum foil and secure _that_ with the kapton tape.
I had a right game with the last A600 I had a go at. I decided to remove the audio jacks to get those caps off and wrecked some pads on the jacks 😞 I think it's easier to remove the keyboard connector even though it has lots of pins. Then had a few other pads lift when taking other caps off. I put the board away and haven't touched it since. I figured if I ever get around to it that it would be good for making a video on how not to remove caps. Some of it was my own fault, way too forceful and not in the best of moods when I did it. But I do wonder if the corrosion had weakened the pads bond to the board in some places too. I never finished my little A600 series either. It will be good to see you get yours done 👍
I'd never heard of Time Gal until you mentioned it last year. I've been looking for it ever since. No joy, either real or download. It looks like fun though. (and she's a babe)
For the A600, I would really recommend at least a 4MB FastRAM card that clips over the CPU as well as 1MB in the belly slot. Reason being that ChipRAM is slow, even on ECS machines, and FastRAM do make a difference. Also, it makes the HD more comfortable to work with, having more RAM
Hey Chris, there's always some confusion about polyimide film (kapton tape) when used for electronics repair. Polyimide film is actually thermally conductive at "normal" thicknesses and in space applications, this is one of its main uses. Only at 1.5mm+ thicknesses does it act as a thermal insulator (but not as a good one). It's also often used as an electrical insulator in extreme heat applications. Anyway, using this film for thermal isolation with a soldering iron or hot air is not recommended. Whatever is behind it will melt if touched. It would work if there was air between the film and the part you're trying to protect. But the way repair people usually do it YT simply doesn't do anything and destroys parts. The best way to protect parts is with a piece of thin, soft silicone.
I was never keen on the A600 due to the lack of a NUM PAD. I had quite a few A500+ programs and games that did'nt work on my friends A600 because of that.
Note: One of the caps needs adjustment there - barely hanging on, can you spot it? And... There's an issue I created there too - dealt with in Part 2, along with a kind of related fault too!
When I said that version of "Kickstart" was setup on a 1200... Brain fart, I meant Workbench :o)
When I said "dual Kickstart 3.1 / 2.0" - I meant to say "dual Kickstart 1.3 / 2.0"... Kickstart 1.3 is what you want for most compatibility with older games. Later games may have needed Kickstart 2.0 or greater.
Nice vid, this is how things should be done!!
I picked up some 600s that have been "recapped", but nobody cleaned the elecrticlyte before or after, and soldered new caps on and left flux on the board too, with some soldered to the cans, a mess, pads and traces eaten.
The audio caps are the most fun!
I usually desolder the RF modulator, audio jacks and the choke when recapping A600/1200s. Prevents a lot of melted plastics and you also get to clean up a lot gunk from under those components.
Do you ever have issues with the pads on the audio jacks? Or is that just me? 🙂
@@Error42_I ruined my pads exactly here. That part of the board is busy and I guess lots of heat spreads to all the components and traces nearby.
Looking forward to part two. Cheers Chris.
Nice video, thanks! Always fun to see people fixing Amiga 600’s. I got one new in 1993 and I still have it, recapped and upgraded of course. Great little machine even these days.
I liked the use of the time in the bottom right of the screen.
I should repeat on here that I'm normally a stickler for using ESD bags etc.
But I didn't have any to hand, and it had taken me long enough procrastinating about what to put in the parcel, then getting it all wrapped up.
If I had taken any longer, it would have still been sat here. lol
The A600 mobo had been sat in a drawer for many years, and the keyboard in a tub in the loft space.
IIRC, another friend sent me both items quite a long time ago, so I'm just glad they will get used.
28:00 LOL
I remember now - A few years back, I was using this mobo to test an On-screen display thing, for the Gotek / HxC / FlashFloppy.
With a small FPGA board, it would pull the Amiga RGB pins high or low. It worked quite well.
(part of the reason for trying that, was that I kept seeing people cut big holes in their Amiga cases, to fit the LCD for the Gotek etc.)
I could be wrong, but I think Keir added OSD support to the FlashFloppy firmware now, but possibly with an external board?
I haven't looked at that project in a very long while.
Thanks very much for sending it to me =D
I'm hoping to get a load of components for my Coleco tomorrow, just what I need get me in the mood to fix stuff
Kapton tape on its own does not protect against transferring heat, its "heat resist
ant properties" refer to the tape itself not deforming under heat. What I tend to do in these situation is to protect the plastic part with aluminum foil and secure _that_ with the kapton tape.
Retrobench cap kits were superb, especially the organic polymer kits. Good save, even if it is a 600... 😋
Thanks for the kind words. Looking forward to seeing it.😊
@25:06 love the northridge fix reference there lol, good video as always! :)
😁
I had a right game with the last A600 I had a go at. I decided to remove the audio jacks to get those caps off and wrecked some pads on the jacks 😞 I think it's easier to remove the keyboard connector even though it has lots of pins. Then had a few other pads lift when taking other caps off. I put the board away and haven't touched it since. I figured if I ever get around to it that it would be good for making a video on how not to remove caps. Some of it was my own fault, way too forceful and not in the best of moods when I did it. But I do wonder if the corrosion had weakened the pads bond to the board in some places too.
I never finished my little A600 series either. It will be good to see you get yours done 👍
Great job so far with the A600. 👍 Those chips are getting expensive... had to get a Denise chip around £60 as joysticks were not functioning well.
I'd never heard of Time Gal until you mentioned it last year. I've been looking for it ever since. No joy, either real or download. It looks like fun though. (and she's a babe)
For the A600, I would really recommend at least a 4MB FastRAM card that clips over the CPU as well as 1MB in the belly slot.
Reason being that ChipRAM is slow, even on ECS machines, and FastRAM do make a difference.
Also, it makes the HD more comfortable to work with, having more RAM
Hey Chris, there's always some confusion about polyimide film (kapton tape) when used for electronics repair. Polyimide film is actually thermally conductive at "normal" thicknesses and in space applications, this is one of its main uses. Only at 1.5mm+ thicknesses does it act as a thermal insulator (but not as a good one). It's also often used as an electrical insulator in extreme heat applications. Anyway, using this film for thermal isolation with a soldering iron or hot air is not recommended. Whatever is behind it will melt if touched. It would work if there was air between the film and the part you're trying to protect. But the way repair people usually do it YT simply doesn't do anything and destroys parts. The best way to protect parts is with a piece of thin, soft silicone.
Yeah, its better to use multiple layers, plus alumnium foil I think! On the next one, I removed the audio sockets to make it easier!
I loved Cadaver.
I was never keen on the A600 due to the lack of a NUM PAD. I had quite a few A500+ programs and games that did'nt work on my friends A600 because of that.
47:00 I used a chip extractor once, I hit myself in the face and damaged the chip. After that I went back to using a flat blade screwdriver. LOL
There is a new Amiga game Roguecraft, it might make up for Cadaver 😁
13:00 OMG, that cap did NOT want to move. It's the worst I've seen for not shifting.
man, those caps near the keyboard connector are a right pain. I've an a600 to sort out and I'm not looking forward to it :)
I've never got an SD card HD to work on my A1200, but a CF card seems to work everytime. Odd
I have an A600 that needs a recap - anyone know somebody whose work they could recommend (in the UK, preferably)?
N x 👆👆
Mr commadorian.....
clicky ..clicky keyboards... yum yum