Wish I was still in my 30's I rode barrels too... I'm 63 and have had 3 fusioned discs.l miss surfing so much and dream of it almost nightly.l surfed over 50 yrs.Cowabunga!!! Peace!!
Glad you got 50 years in! I moved to a SUP 7'7" 4-fin Starboard and having the time of my life last 10 years. Short boarding is rare for me these days, it's a lot of work for this 50+ guy :) SUP has been easy on my back and neck. I find my spots away from the short boarders in the South Bay and respect their space. Never any issues. Get back out there!
How did surfing affect your back? I'm 28 been surfing 17 years and have had progressive lower back pain that I believe to be a compressed nerve. Surfing actually does help a bit but wears out my neck which is a trade off I'm more than willing to make.
I jumped forward on a closeout tube at Scripps once and my board spun around and tapped me on the foot. Paddling back back out, it felt funny and i looked back at my foot and there was some hamburger hanging out. #Stitches
You totally forgot the backside layback barrel. They were kinda of an 80's thing but they've been making a comeback. And you also forgot the barrel that usurped the layback, the backside pigdog barrel. Both super cool and stylish. I was once surfing surfside with pumping swell and Santa Ana's all week and the last day (for me at least) I was riding my single fin and just pulling in on every wave and I pulled into an overhead close out and wanted to get a few more seconds of that coveted view and instead of flicking my board forwards and falling back like you normally do, I dove forward and my board kept up with me and got sucked up with the lip and came down right on my face with the rail and broke my jaw!!! Bummer. It rung my bell but I caught a few more before I went in.
Old school strong man barrel, the lay back and the pig dog, can't forget the pig dog but stall but the best is the Lopez soul arch! Great berell show!!
Another awesome video Brad! Great footage of some of the Southbay's best surfers including Alex Gray, Andy Prunauer, Angelo Luhrsen and others. More please!
Thanks! Lean back. The force of the wave breaking on you will push the board in front of you. If you're in the barrel when it closes out try punching through the back of the wave instead of riding it out. Good luck!
As a diehard Kickboarder from The Wedge&Northcounty S.D. who made the move to The NorthShore 3/78 & am now 62yrs young i do know4 a fact that time Stops inside the Tube. IAm a BarrelHunter till the dayIdie.StayWet-Steep&Deep.Aloha4&2All From FreeFliteHandFoils
One of the coolest feelings is when your in a closeout and your still able to keep riding for another second or two while completely surrounded by spinning water.
Pigdog backside drop, i can claim a few chest high wave entries and exits, but can't wait to slide into something real with success... what i am trying to say is that i have mad respect for the dudes who just slide into a tube going to their backhand;
The art of occasionally making a south bay closeout.
That's a good name too!
Wish I was still in my 30's I rode barrels too... I'm 63 and have had 3 fusioned discs.l miss surfing so much
and dream of it almost nightly.l surfed over 50 yrs.Cowabunga!!! Peace!!
Glad you got 50 years in! I moved to a SUP 7'7" 4-fin Starboard and having the time of my life last 10 years. Short boarding is rare for me these days, it's a lot of work for this 50+ guy :) SUP has been easy on my back and neck. I find my spots away from the short boarders in the South Bay and respect their space. Never any issues. Get back out there!
How did surfing affect your back? I'm 28 been surfing 17 years and have had progressive lower back pain that I believe to be a compressed nerve. Surfing actually does help a bit but wears out my neck which is a trade off I'm more than willing to make.
Another great video! I love seeing my South Bay looking so good!
That feeling of relief when you doggie door right before a 6+ ft close out
Love the videos, great content! Keep it up!
Thanks for watching!
These videos are sick! Keep it up
Thanks!
I like the style of this video !
Bruce Brown inspiration is there.
Pulled into a close out with zero fear once, snapped my board in half. Now I dip every time I see one over 3 feet. Traumatized lmao
I jumped forward on a closeout tube at Scripps once and my board spun around and tapped me on the foot.
Paddling back back out, it felt funny and i looked back at my foot and there was some hamburger hanging out.
#Stitches
@@theyoungupstarts1243 scripps San Diego?? I’ve had some amazing days there, many more crap close out days tho lol
You get extra style points for this video! Thanks Brad!
Thanks, I appreciate the kind words
This is what i,m here for....great commentary style..
Thanks! I appreciate it.
5:46 is my favorite way to plow through a wave. I just haven't figured out a way to do it backside.
You totally forgot the backside layback barrel. They were kinda of an 80's thing but they've been making a comeback. And you also forgot the barrel that usurped the layback, the backside pigdog barrel. Both super cool and stylish.
I was once surfing surfside with pumping swell and Santa Ana's all week and the last day (for me at least) I was riding my single fin and just pulling in on every wave and I pulled into an overhead close out and wanted to get a few more seconds of that coveted view and instead of flicking my board forwards and falling back like you normally do, I dove forward and my board kept up with me and got sucked up with the lip and came down right on my face with the rail and broke my jaw!!! Bummer. It rung my bell but I caught a few more before I went in.
Old school strong man barrel, the lay back and the pig dog, can't forget the pig dog but stall but the best is the Lopez soul arch! Great berell show!!
"If you make the barrel , you weren't deep enough" Nathan Fletcher
Another awesome video Brad! Great footage of some of the Southbay's best surfers including Alex Gray, Andy Prunauer, Angelo Luhrsen and others. More please!
Thanks! Hope for some more waves soon
Nice soundtrack... enjoyed it!
Beautiful vídeo!!
Mesmerizing!
Hi Brad, Great Videos & Commentary! Do you have any tips on how to avoid hitting your board during a closeout wipeout? Cheers Ollie
Thanks! Lean back. The force of the wave breaking on you will push the board in front of you. If you're in the barrel when it closes out try punching through the back of the wave instead of riding it out. Good luck!
There are tripe overhead barrels with a channel out the back on the daily in PNW
I love your videos keep it up
Thanks!
Absolutely killin it with the vids lately
As a diehard Kickboarder from The Wedge&Northcounty S.D. who made the move to The NorthShore 3/78 & am now 62yrs young i do know4 a fact that time Stops inside the Tube. IAm a BarrelHunter till the dayIdie.StayWet-Steep&Deep.Aloha4&2All
From
FreeFliteHandFoils
Only real men pull into every closeout
One of the coolest feelings is when your in a closeout and your still able to keep riding for another second or two while completely surrounded by spinning water.
Brad, love the intro! Haha...great creativity.
thanks
Pigdog backside drop, i can claim a few chest high wave entries and exits, but can't wait to slide into something real with success... what i am trying to say is that i have mad respect for the dudes who just slide into a tube going to their backhand;
Sir Mix-A-Lot would be proud.
Is the opening clip what the surfline El Porto picture is from?
edit: it looks very similar.
Didn’t even talk about going backside! JOB would be offended
Yea, would have liked the goofy foot, backside, grab rail, dropknee butt stall technique to have gotten an honourable mention....)
☮️❤️🙂
All these waves make me want to leave the northeast waves for the west coast
Go watch some numbskulls edits... they put these barrels to shame
@@idekbruh9932 Hahah Lol Im Friends with Rob Kelly himself.
got to get barrels before you can surf them. I got to get out of this mushy place
in my waves you have to go really crouching
Bruce Brown reborn lol
You forgot about the barrel dodger
Ahhh... that would have been awesome.
Three down votes... angry Redondo locals?
Sounds right.
looks like doheny
Or Malibu 🤣
Luckily salt water is good for the sinuses
“Death”
Pitted..soooooooo pitted bro
These waves are pathetic