Very neat, thanks. I'm almost in awe when he applies dykem blueing, it's like looking into the depths of the cosmos. When I do it it looks like a wren crapped on it from 5000ft above.
Superb work as usual. Please, let me know if you have any job openings in your shop. I'll sort chips. I'll sweep floors. I'll pick the clogs out of your files. Just to be around this stuff. #favoritechannel
Hi Chris, nice work as always. A question: why did you knurl the whole thing first when you needed such a small width knurled? Was that so you pick the knurled portion you wanted and machine around it or some other reason?
It's a little hard to tell without watching the full video, but if you look at the photo of the installation at around 4:19, you can see the new knob on the lower threaded adjustment rod (which is new), and the old knob is still in its place on the upper non-threaded adjustment rod.
Not a machinist - how is it that the knurling tool's spacing of the knurls always lines up after a full rotation of the work piece? Doesn't the circumference oof the work piece have to be of the correct ratio to the spacing of the knurls on the tool for them to line up cleanly after a full rotation of the work piece? Or does it just kinda fudge itself into lining up? 🤔
I always wonder this myself. Being a programmer, where everything needs to be precise, the idea of the ratios not perfectly matching seems like it wouldn't work to me. But it does so I wonder what's happening. My guess (machinists, please correct me if I'm wrong!) is that there is enough play in the system for the knurling tool to "wiggle" into the right spot if it's ever so slightly out of sync. Or maybe it's something else and I'm barking up the wrong tree?
Also not a machinist, but I think I recall a mention that the knurling tools simply keep cutting until they reach the appropriate depth of cut where the knurl cuts are spaced out the correct amount for the workpiece, sorting itself out without too much trouble. Take my words with many pinches of salt, however.
@@melonrue this type of knurl wheel forms the metal, it is not cutting. A cut knnurling tool would do that at 1200 rpm and in one pass without increasing the diameter of the work. Also a lot less sensitive to diameter/tracking issues. But they cost a LOT more money. Easy to make yourself though.
The spacing of the knurls doesn't always line up after a full turn! Coarse knurling wheels can make a double impression & you end up with a fine pattern...
Can someone explain how does this checkered pattern tool work every single time so flawlessly for different pieces? Does the lathe is set to run accordingly to the diameter of the rod so it creates such a perfect pattern?
Chris, there are only two entities that I support via Patreon: you and Wikipedia. Great work -- again. How about that video about your hand tool collection, hammers in particular, that I've asked for? I'll keep on asking for it. I haven't forgotten. Pretty please?
Watching you machine threads just spoils me and corrupts any acceptance of the threads of fasteners I have to put in at work with ridiculous (when in comparison to what you're making) amounts of slop.
Why use green loctite? Doesn't red have a stronger bond with heat or a whole lot of force being the only thing that will break it? My understanding was that green was used to fill gaps and doesn't hold as well as red.
Hi Chris.... Absolutely fantastic work as always... When making the knurled pattern do you have specific sizes that you have to work to for the size of knurling tool
It's pretty, but it's not the same as the part in the beginning of the video. The knurling appears finer on the original, in addition to the shaft being obviously different.
Amazing job, as always! Question: why two pieces glued together instead of milling the whole knob from one piece? Is it because this way the threaded part is made from a stronger material?
@@mr.jackstone9256 Also, this piece was part of an assembly that Chris added to one of his machine tools. This part was designed to match a similar part (shown at the beginning of the video) on the existing machine which had the same bi-metal design.
It's relatively easy to cut the knurled pattern into brass because of its softness (unlike steel), whereas the threaded bolt needs to be steel, presumably to make it strong and durable enough.
Um... I'm a girlie girl without a metalworking lathe; when I needed a fine adjuster for my camera's macro-focusing rail, I didn't have a knob, so I just twisted a couple of nuts together, and - 🤪 Sorry, boys - did I say something wrong?🤭
Clickspring puts the "Fine" in "Fine Adjustment Knob"
Very neat, thanks. I'm almost in awe when he applies dykem blueing, it's like looking into the depths of the cosmos. When I do it it looks like a wren crapped on it from 5000ft above.
🤣
Just here for the knob jokes. Carry on.
Knurling should be a sport.
There is a!most something spiritual about the way you work metal, long may you continue.
This is like if Gustav Faberge had a machine shop.
Kinda weird to see you playing with your knob in public. 😁 cool video as always
Superb work as usual. Please, let me know if you have any job openings in your shop. I'll sort chips. I'll sweep floors. I'll pick the clogs out of your files.
Just to be around this stuff.
#favoritechannel
It's always so mesmerizing to watch your videos.
Hypnotic!
Great work and a very interesting "half profile" threading tool.
Tremendously satisfying to watch.
Wow! I learn new things every video!
Hi Chris, nice work as always. A question: why did you knurl the whole thing first when you needed such a small width knurled? Was that so you pick the knurled portion you wanted and machine around it or some other reason?
Smooth. I always wanted to know how knurling was accomplished
Perfection.
You Sir, are a god to me.
Art video thanks
👍👌👏 Simply fantastic again and as always (video and work). Best regards luck and health.
Wonderful, thank you!
Very cool!
The old one was so beautiful and looked to have a story. What did you do with it? Ill be sad if it goes in the scrap bin.
New one looks 👌
It's a little hard to tell without watching the full video, but if you look at the photo of the installation at around 4:19, you can see the new knob on the lower threaded adjustment rod (which is new), and the old knob is still in its place on the upper non-threaded adjustment rod.
One could infact place the "fine" almost anywhere in the sentence and still be accurate when describing what we see here.
Not a machinist - how is it that the knurling tool's spacing of the knurls always lines up after a full rotation of the work piece? Doesn't the circumference oof the work piece have to be of the correct ratio to the spacing of the knurls on the tool for them to line up cleanly after a full rotation of the work piece? Or does it just kinda fudge itself into lining up? 🤔
I always wonder this myself. Being a programmer, where everything needs to be precise, the idea of the ratios not perfectly matching seems like it wouldn't work to me. But it does so I wonder what's happening. My guess (machinists, please correct me if I'm wrong!) is that there is enough play in the system for the knurling tool to "wiggle" into the right spot if it's ever so slightly out of sync. Or maybe it's something else and I'm barking up the wrong tree?
Also not a machinist, but I think I recall a mention that the knurling tools simply keep cutting until they reach the appropriate depth of cut where the knurl cuts are spaced out the correct amount for the workpiece, sorting itself out without too much trouble. Take my words with many pinches of salt, however.
@@melonrue this type of knurl wheel forms the metal, it is not cutting. A cut knnurling tool would do that at 1200 rpm and in one pass without increasing the diameter of the work. Also a lot less sensitive to diameter/tracking issues. But they cost a LOT more money. Easy to make yourself though.
The spacing of the knurls doesn't always line up after a full turn! Coarse knurling wheels can make a double impression & you end up with a fine pattern...
Can someone explain how does this checkered pattern tool work every single time so flawlessly for different pieces? Does the lathe is set to run accordingly to the diameter of the rod so it creates such a perfect pattern?
You knurled the #uck out of that ...SO AWESOME (last comment "disappeared")
Chris, there are only two entities that I support via Patreon: you and Wikipedia. Great work -- again. How about that video about your hand tool collection, hammers in particular, that I've asked for? I'll keep on asking for it. I haven't forgotten. Pretty please?
Watching you machine threads just spoils me and corrupts any acceptance of the threads of fasteners I have to put in at work with ridiculous (when in comparison to what you're making) amounts of slop.
the m4 allthread at the bix box store is a bit like that.
Why use green loctite? Doesn't red have a stronger bond with heat or a whole lot of force being the only thing that will break it? My understanding was that green was used to fill gaps and doesn't hold as well as red.
Green is stud and bearing mount. Stronger than red.
Hi Chris.... Absolutely fantastic work as always...
When making the knurled pattern do you have specific sizes that you have to work to for the size of knurling tool
Can you imagine how long it would take him to build a car bolt, nut and screw by screw ?
I have arrived.
This could just as well be titled: Making A Fine Knurled Adjustment Knob😉
Not really - it's quite a coarse knurl...
It's pretty, but it's not the same as the part in the beginning of the video. The knurling appears finer on the original, in addition to the shaft being obviously different.
i think it's the same part if you look closely
😊
Amazing job, as always! Question: why two pieces glued together instead of milling the whole knob from one piece? Is it because this way the threaded part is made from a stronger material?
probably because brass is a very soft metal so it will deform quite easily if put under strain
@@mr.jackstone9256 Also, this piece was part of an assembly that Chris added to one of his machine tools. This part was designed to match a similar part (shown at the beginning of the video) on the existing machine which had the same bi-metal design.
It's relatively easy to cut the knurled pattern into brass because of its softness (unlike steel), whereas the threaded bolt needs to be steel, presumably to make it strong and durable enough.
couldnt you just re-knurl the old one?
2:18 Licc
Um... I'm a girlie girl without a metalworking lathe; when I needed a fine adjuster for my camera's macro-focusing rail, I didn't have a knob, so I just twisted a couple of nuts together, and - 🤪
Sorry, boys - did I say something wrong?🤭