Awesome explaining. Only took one trip to the store and had most things laying around. Took me mabee an hour and stain is drying as I type. Beautiful easy rod threader.
Is there a structural reason to screw two 1.5-inch pieces together to make the base of the thread jig? Is it for strength? Any reason not to just use a piece of 1x4?
@@jsnedigar That is what I had remaining from the stock of wood pieces for the project. The reason for the two pieces screwed together was to increase the real estate for mounting the components. A 1x4 piece would have worked as well, if I had one.
Highly recommend NOT SCREWING the Thread Support permanently to the "bed". Rather, install it like the supports so it can slide back and forth along the bed. this allows it to be positioned at optimal positions and be angled such that you can achieve the crossover of thread and have a better thread wrap helix angle, allowing tighter thread wraps.
Steve Tomlinson: Totally encourage everyone to hack this design to suit their individual preferences. For me, when turning the blank by hand, it's more comfortable to slide the blank laterally as I wrap it to maintain the optimum angle. Now & then, a wrapped guide interferes with this method and your solution would prevail.
@@paulnoble684 yes I understand the sliding thread " carriage" allows the user to EITHER slide the blank or move the the "carrage" or both! And gives you the flexibility of canting the thread as well. But i get it, all personal preference!
After considering your suggestion to give the thread carriage some travel I agreed and configured mine as such. (Also made a couple other 'personal' tweaks. All in all, great little wrapping/drying (with added motor) jig and much appreciation to Paul for laying it out!)
i have just built this and want to confirm that the thread goes between the two countersunk washers, is the thread squeezed between the washers? as I cannot see what causes the tention
Graham Allen: You are correct! Some folks pull the thread over the top, between the countersunk washers and that works fine. I like to loop once around the bolt shank, between the washers as I find it more consistent. You adjust the tension by tightening or loosening the wing nut.
blackfur2: Finishing the wood opens up the possibility of that finish transferring to your fingers and contaminating the threadwork so I leave it unfinished.
Christopher Jenkins: Try www.anglers.org/ again. I've put links for both of the DIY rod jigs on the "Home" page until May 2020 - after that you'll find them on the "Past Events" page of the same website.
@@paulnoble684 I had the same issue finding (or NOT finding) the pdf version...got it now tho! Incidentally, awesome step by step 'How To' presentation! Thanx!
sangpengembara fishing: Yes, there's a lot of designs out there that share the same basic elements. I just decided to share my own take on it using easily available components.
Been trying to figure out a way to make the tensioner, so thank you!
I enjoyed the video, looking forward to the next one.
Fishing Louisiana: Thanks! Been travelling but should be posting some new stuff soon!
I just built the jig. Thank you so much. Not sure if you are a shop teacher, but you should!
jeremy bray: Thanks, I'm not a teacher but sure like to help out!
Awesome explaining. Only took one trip to the store and had most things laying around. Took me mabee an hour and stain is drying as I type. Beautiful easy rod threader.
Also Lowe's didn't have the moen faucet repair kit in stock but the Delta kit is basically samething and works great invade anyone asks.
working2Bselfsufficient: Thanks and hope you have fun building your own rods!
@@working2bselfsufficient724 Good tip, thanks!
@@paulnoble684 Thank you for the awesome plans. I'll definitely enjoy making myself some new custom rods.
Thanks alot going to build one, your a great teacher
Philip little: Thank you for the kind words!
Thank you for this great video
VERY NICE PAUL !!!
Is there a structural reason to screw two 1.5-inch pieces together to make the base of the thread jig? Is it for strength? Any reason not to just use a piece of 1x4?
@@jsnedigar That is what I had remaining from the stock of wood pieces for the project. The reason for the two pieces screwed together was to increase the real estate for mounting the components. A 1x4 piece would have worked as well, if I had one.
Hey, thank you for investing time to share this...
consuelo linares: My pleasure. Happy rod building!
awesome tutorial mate.
raymond bailey: Thanks for watching!
Awesome video from Hawaii
Mana Tone: Thank you, from Canada!
Highly recommend NOT SCREWING the Thread Support permanently to the "bed". Rather, install it like the supports so it can slide back and forth along the bed. this allows it to be positioned at optimal positions and be angled such that you can achieve the crossover of thread and have a better thread wrap helix angle, allowing tighter thread wraps.
Steve Tomlinson: Totally encourage everyone to hack this design to suit their individual preferences. For me, when turning the blank by hand, it's more comfortable to slide the blank laterally as I wrap it to maintain the optimum angle. Now & then, a wrapped guide interferes with this method and your solution would prevail.
@@paulnoble684 yes I understand the sliding thread " carriage" allows the user to EITHER slide the blank or move the the "carrage" or both! And gives you the flexibility of canting the thread as well. But i get it, all personal preference!
After considering your suggestion to give the thread carriage some travel I agreed and configured mine as such. (Also made a couple other 'personal' tweaks. All in all, great little wrapping/drying (with added motor) jig and much appreciation to Paul for laying it out!)
Nice job paul....
Does the line go through the two collars in order to get the correct friction you need
i have just built this and want to confirm that the thread goes between the two countersunk washers, is the thread squeezed between the washers? as I cannot see what causes the tention
Graham Allen: You are correct! Some folks pull the thread over the top, between the countersunk washers and that works fine. I like to loop once around the bolt shank, between the washers as I find it more consistent. You adjust the tension by tightening or loosening the wing nut.
great tutorial thank you for sharing
Daniel Rochat: Kind words Daniel, Thanks!
Haha that’s a pretty slick setup Paul.
Tnx very much for sharing!!
Do you turn the rod away or towards you with this wrapper ??
Thank you for these plans I am in the process of making one and just wondering what’s the best finish to use ?
blackfur2: Finishing the wood opens up the possibility of that finish transferring to your fingers and contaminating the threadwork so I leave it unfinished.
@@paulnoble684 perfect 👍 . So there is a reason I sanded it all the way back to 800 grit 😆 thank you again
I am like the jop is this, what year the jop ? To Mbah ji Jogjakarta Indonesia.
Great video but can't seem to get pdf instructions
Christopher Jenkins: Try www.anglers.org/ again. I've put links for both of the DIY rod jigs on the "Home" page until May 2020 - after that you'll find them on the "Past Events" page of the same website.
@@paulnoble684 I had the same issue finding (or NOT finding) the pdf version...got it now tho! Incidentally, awesome step by step 'How To' presentation! Thanx!
sangat detail. 👍👍
Simple Plan: Thank you for watching and hope you find rod building as enjoyable as I do!
You produced this video all yourself? It's amazing.
Richard Powell: Yes I did and happy you enjoyed it as much as I did making it!
@@paulnoble684 did you use to be an audio or visual guy? You are just talented in teaching and editing/making videos I suppose.
Like my friends
sangpengembara fishing: Yes, there's a lot of designs out there that share the same basic elements. I just decided to share my own take on it using easily available components.
👍🏻🤝🏼
Secret Psycho