Nice list. The only other thing I would recommend for caution is that if you're using activated carbon pellets to make sure you're buying acid free carbon pellets otherwise they can very quickly rust some of the steel components like the linear rods. You can always check to see if your carbon pellets are acid free by putting some in a small container with steel wool. If the wool rusts overnight, then it is not acid free.
I love the way you include all the links as so many other 3D UA-camrs don't and it's such a pain, so you have earned my subscription. You can buy LED Light Connectors, Including X-shaped, T-shaped, L-shaped and many others from the likes of Temu for about €2.30 the link would have been too long to post here.
Well-intentioned advice to all: There is a reason why the original light is so dark. The LIDAR scanner can no longer see the reflection of the extrusion if the light is too bright. So you always have to stay close at the beginning to switch the light automatically. In addition, the internal camera sets a fixed exposure at the BEGINNING of the print. If you switch on the light afterwards, everything is overexposed. So save yourself the trouble of printing the frame and get the Panda Lux upgrade for 15,- instead ... The light is much brighter, you connect it to the original connector and replace the original light. Lidar still works afterwards and the camera exposure is also correct.
In my tests with this possible "problem", I did tests - my X1 has it too - and it did not confirm. No matter how the light was set - I have a light frame, the print result was the same every time. Maybe I was lucky, but for me the light frame is not a problem for Lidar.
The nice thing about this is that if you have an ESP32, you can interface it to the printer with MQTT and make it turn off the lights while it's doing the LIDAR scan
thanks man! Another one that can I recommend is a poop chute/bucket. I didn‘t show it in this video since the design is super slim and though it works in my case, it probably won’t work for everyone. Just get one that works for you. And enjoy your P1S man!
The printing chamber never actually gets warmer than 60 degrees, i.e. ABS, PETG, ASA ... are also perfectly adequate, so it is not necessary to use extra expensive carbon or glass fibre reinforced nylon etc. for this purpose
the printer got crazy hot when i printed the PA6-CF and it was quite hot here in the summer too thats why i decided to print with the filament to have at least a peace of mind. But it‘s good to know that the temp doesnt get warmer than that 60degC. Thanks for the tips man!
I don’t buy into this push the PLA won’t work. Almost 2 years ago I printed a replacement cap for my buddies windshield washer fluid reservoir in his performance car. I printed that out of PLA and to date there has been no defamation, discolor, orany other damage. TLA does have its limits but I think it benefits manufacturers to tell us that the limit is much lower than it actually is so that we buy more expensive filaments. I think it’s a load of garbage, just use PLA
The Sunlu spools are smaller than the Bambu ones, that is why they are hopping. I printed some adapters and that solved it. I don't think it has to do with the weight, just another way to do it. You may or may not have noticed the gap between the spool and the cover on the Sunlu ones
maybe the adapters are adding to its weight? true, I didnt close the lid after I added the spool weight, but as you can see, it doesnt hop at all, it just spins.
I think you forgot to suggest the most important use of the four-in-one adapter: if you connect it before the buffer you can connect up to four AMS saving 50 dollars on HUB and working much better
it looks like the carbon filter sits with the lid facing up, you probably don't even need the latching mechanism, just the friction alone should suffice for keeping the lid in place.
I was under the impression that the activated carbon for my reef tank was acid-free, but upon closer inspection, it turns out that it‘s acid-washed! Thanks for addressing that!
You can neutralize the acid by soaking the carbon pellets overnight in distilled water and baking soda(1gallon/ quarter cup of baking soda) drain and dry. Save yourself some money.
it doesnt really draw filament, if you decide to print from an external spool, you still need to load the filament manually. its just a helpful tool so you dont need to disconnect the AMS everytime you wanna print something from the external spool (and vice versa). I hope that makes sense?
I found what I wanted and have it in the cart. Can't find the English button? Maybe doesn't have one. Tried paying with PayPal but after that going back to their site, didn't have Usa or United States as an option to ship to. Found a different wiper so I guess that will just rot in the cart!!
The wiper isn't just not great, it's terrible. Even bambu knows; that's why they changed it to the superior a1 purge system. There is a great wiper using a cut up silicone tube that filament will not stick to
I've been using the cut tubing wiper for a few weeks now...is very nice. Does a great job and I'm seeing less 'fly away' bits from the nozzle. The original X1C wiper tended to flick little bits of extruded material all over the print chamber.
It's a bad idea to have dessicant behind the moisture meter. Because then you dont measure the correct moisture level, but the level at the dessicant beads. When I removed dessicants from the meter box, the level raised from 10% to around 18-19%
@@Lukis3D I have had my AMS riser on for a year now. Printed in PLA. have also printed ABS. The ambient temps above the printer will not reach above 100c. Maybe 35-40. Will not melt your riser.
@@theromeog do you print engineering materials regularly? I never said 100C, PLA will start to deform around 60C. It got really hot when i printed the PA6CF for 8h straight but i didn‘t take a look at the chamber temp. I‘ll do that next time. Btw, have you googled the post on reddit? Can you explain what happened there
The crap print you showed at about the 40s mark is almost certainly NOT filament moisture. I am getting this sort of thing on my P1S with every print -- PLA, PETG and ABS -- even on filaments that have been dried for 12 hours. My prints are significantly worse than yours, even. There's something else going on with this printer that I'm still trying to figure out.
I’m sorry to hear that man! Well i don’t have this problem printing other materials though, so I’m not sure what’s the issue with your P1S. Have you contacted their support?
had this printer for 2 weeks now...cannot print anything multicolor, red ABS plugs the extruder and have to disassemble it, no other ABS does it. white ABS always goes stringy. thinking bout returning it
Don't throw out the baby with the bathwater. Lots of my favorite channels do the embedded ads. I just skip ahead to the next chapter if i don't need a few seconds to look away from the screen.
BambuLab 4-in-1 PTFE Adapter: shrsl.com/4o2jo
BambuLab X1C: shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=2353821&u=4344577&m=138211&urllink=&afftrack=
Nice list. The only other thing I would recommend for caution is that if you're using activated carbon pellets to make sure you're buying acid free carbon pellets otherwise they can very quickly rust some of the steel components like the linear rods. You can always check to see if your carbon pellets are acid free by putting some in a small container with steel wool. If the wool rusts overnight, then it is not acid free.
thanks man and thanks for that tip! I found out that the carbon pellets i have aren‘t acid-free, so I‘ll need to get new ones!
Wild, never even thought of acid-free pellets. Thanks for the info!
Hi there, thanks so much for the shout out, I just found out today that my SPILLPROOF AMS Desiccant boxes are now a Maker's Supply kit :D
wow thats awesome, congrats man! they’re great, so thanks so much for the design!
I love the way you include all the links as so many other 3D UA-camrs don't and it's such a pain, so you have earned my subscription. You can buy LED Light Connectors, Including X-shaped, T-shaped, L-shaped and many others from the likes of Temu for about €2.30 the link would have been too long to post here.
hey man thanks for subscribing! And also thanks for the tips, those connectors will really make things easier!
Excellent ideas. My X1C Combo gets here this week.
thanks man, make sure to order those other accessories as well! I‘m pretty sure you‘re excited to get your hands on the X1CC!
I like that you took the time to cut your LED strips into 4 pieces and solder them back together. I wish I thought to do that with mine. Next time.
sorry for that, of course i meant I solder them back together using cables so i could angle the strips at 90deg angle more easily😅
Hey, you could now add a new upgrade on the list :)
The Starlex DHB hot-end, quick nozzle swap without touching a screw or connector.
so many great tips not seen elsewhere, thanks for the video
your welcome! And I‘m guessing that you got yourself a new X1C/P1S? Then have fun with it!
Well-intentioned advice to all: There is a reason why the original light is so dark. The LIDAR scanner can no longer see the reflection of the extrusion if the light is too bright. So you always have to stay close at the beginning to switch the light automatically. In addition, the internal camera sets a fixed exposure at the BEGINNING of the print. If you switch on the light afterwards, everything is overexposed. So save yourself the trouble of printing the frame and get the Panda Lux upgrade for 15,- instead ... The light is much brighter, you connect it to the original connector and replace the original light. Lidar still works afterwards and the camera exposure is also correct.
That mod is certainly a great alternative to the frame, thanks for pointing that out!
In my tests with this possible "problem", I did tests - my X1 has it too - and it did not confirm. No matter how the light was set - I have a light frame, the print result was the same every time. Maybe I was lucky, but for me the light frame is not a problem for Lidar.
The nice thing about this is that if you have an ESP32, you can interface it to the printer with MQTT and make it turn off the lights while it's doing the LIDAR scan
Sweet printer with some nice upgrades! 👍
thanks man! 💪🏼
Appreciate the video! Happy printing sir. Take care.
thanks man! glad that u liked it!
I am about to get a P1S and these were awesome suggestions.
thanks man! Another one that can I recommend is a poop chute/bucket. I didn‘t show it in this video since the design is super slim and though it works in my case, it probably won’t work for everyone. Just get one that works for you.
And enjoy your P1S man!
Right on, I have my p1s for three months and haven’t used it yet… I need to get it started! 😂
Un placer verte trabajar
thank you so much man!
The printing chamber never actually gets warmer than 60 degrees, i.e. ABS, PETG, ASA ... are also perfectly adequate, so it is not necessary to use extra expensive carbon or glass fibre reinforced nylon etc. for this purpose
the printer got crazy hot when i printed the PA6-CF and it was quite hot here in the summer too thats why i decided to print with the filament to have at least a peace of mind. But it‘s good to know that the temp doesnt get warmer than that 60degC. Thanks for the tips man!
I don’t buy into this push the PLA won’t work. Almost 2 years ago I printed a replacement cap for my buddies windshield washer fluid reservoir in his performance car. I printed that out of PLA and to date there has been no defamation, discolor, orany other damage. TLA does have its limits but I think it benefits manufacturers to tell us that the limit is much lower than it actually is so that we buy more expensive filaments. I think it’s a load of garbage, just use PLA
Im here at your reccomendation. Will be doing alot of these
nice! Which printer do you own?
@@Lukis3D x1c
Perfect video! Thank you brother! 👍👍
your welcome man, have fun upgrading your printer!
The Sunlu spools are smaller than the Bambu ones, that is why they are hopping. I printed some adapters and that solved it. I don't think it has to do with the weight, just another way to do it. You may or may not have noticed the gap between the spool and the cover on the Sunlu ones
maybe the adapters are adding to its weight? true, I didnt close the lid after I added the spool weight, but as you can see, it doesnt hop at all, it just spins.
I think you forgot to suggest the most important use of the four-in-one adapter: if you connect it before the buffer you can connect up to four AMS saving 50 dollars on HUB and working much better
Great video !!!!
Thank you very much !!!
your welcome man!!
it looks like the carbon filter sits with the lid facing up, you probably don't even need the latching mechanism, just the friction alone should suffice for keeping the lid in place.
thats true, i’ll try it next time!😁
7:00 make sure its not acid activated carbon pellets, if its acid one then it can ruin the metal components of your printer
I was under the impression that the activated carbon for my reef tank was acid-free, but upon closer inspection, it turns out that it‘s acid-washed! Thanks for addressing that!
@@Lukis3D 😁👍
You can neutralize the acid by soaking the carbon pellets overnight in distilled water and baking soda(1gallon/ quarter cup of baking soda) drain and dry. Save yourself some money.
@@Chris-okf dude, thanks so much for that tips!! Good that i havent thrown that away yet!
I didn't understand how the filament spliter works. AMS makes sense, but how does it draw in filament from a static spool without a drive gear?
it doesnt really draw filament, if you decide to print from an external spool, you still need to load the filament manually.
its just a helpful tool so you dont need to disconnect the AMS everytime you wanna print something from the external spool (and vice versa). I hope that makes sense?
Any way in USA i can get that wiper?
you can contact them to see if they ship internationally, but if not, you could try make it on your own. They included the instruction on printable
Did you a have a marine aquarium??
yeah I did! Sadly had to give up the hobby..
Thanks for the video. The link for the wiper needs to be in English :-( I tried to order but couldn't understand the lingo!
your welcome! would it be helpful to translate the website? Or just directly send them an email
I found what I wanted and have it in the cart. Can't find the English button? Maybe doesn't have one. Tried paying with PayPal but after that going back to their site, didn't have Usa or United States as an option to ship to. Found a different wiper so I guess that will just rot in the cart!!
How much silica gel do you need? 500g enough?
i would say for the AMS, 500g is enough. But if you want to do the spool weight as well, then 1kg
is number 4 in pla
The wiper isn't just not great, it's terrible. Even bambu knows; that's why they changed it to the superior a1 purge system. There is a great wiper using a cut up silicone tube that filament will not stick to
yeah and im hoping that they‘ll improve that in their next flagship printer!
Which silicone tube wiper upgrade is that! Can you share a link?
I've been using the cut tubing wiper for a few weeks now...is very nice.
Does a great job and I'm seeing less 'fly away' bits from the nozzle.
The original X1C wiper tended to flick little bits of extruded material all over the print chamber.
First you accidentally bust the door and replace it with plastic then the lighting is ok
😅😅
PCBway is sponsoring everyone these days. They so desperate
?
It's a bad idea to have dessicant behind the moisture meter.
Because then you dont measure the correct moisture level, but the level at the dessicant beads.
When I removed dessicants from the meter box, the level raised from 10% to around 18-19%
Pla will work fine for the led strip. It’s only going to get to 30-40 c. Not going to damage pla.
not the LED strip, but the printer itself will melt the PLA 👍🏼
@@Lukis3D no it won’t. The led strips will get hotter the the ambient air around the pla. Dont lie to your viewers.
@@theromeog i saw melted AMS riser printed with PLA on reddit (you can google it), so I‘m not gonna take my chances.
@@Lukis3D I have had my AMS riser on for a year now. Printed in PLA. have also printed ABS. The ambient temps above the printer will not reach above 100c. Maybe 35-40. Will not melt your riser.
@@theromeog do you print engineering materials regularly? I never said 100C, PLA will start to deform around 60C.
It got really hot when i printed the PA6CF for 8h straight but i didn‘t take a look at the chamber temp. I‘ll do that next time.
Btw, have you googled the post on reddit? Can you explain what happened there
what is the length of LED you applied
I bought a 5 m LED strip but i used far less than that. I would say around ~1.5 m
The crap print you showed at about the 40s mark is almost certainly NOT filament moisture. I am getting this sort of thing on my P1S with every print -- PLA, PETG and ABS -- even on filaments that have been dried for 12 hours. My prints are significantly worse than yours, even.
There's something else going on with this printer that I'm still trying to figure out.
I’m sorry to hear that man! Well i don’t have this problem printing other materials though, so I’m not sure what’s the issue with your P1S. Have you contacted their support?
had this printer for 2 weeks now...cannot print anything multicolor, red ABS plugs the extruder and have to disassemble it, no other ABS does it. white ABS always goes stringy. thinking bout returning it
im sorry to hear that man! Just contact support so they can take a look at your problems. Their customer service is really good
You might... You want....
NO, you don't know what I want...
😂
Yup stop watching and thumbs down as soon as you disrespect my money and force an ad down my throat after i pay for zero ads.
sorry for that man, hope you still find these upgrades helpful!
@@Lukis3D I do, all good :)
Don't throw out the baby with the bathwater. Lots of my favorite channels do the embedded ads. I just skip ahead to the next chapter if i don't need a few seconds to look away from the screen.