I have a job interview tomorrow I'm practicing this over and over they asked me if I ever used one I said yes but I have no experience im gonna get the job God willing thanks to youuu keep making more videos
This video was a great start but can be taken further. This is as far as I needed to take mine to get most everything clean. I believe this covers most steps in the proper order. - 1. Assure to unplug the machine. 2. Remove (2×) Acorn nuts and flat nuts from thickness backstop angle. 3. Remove (8×) T 20 H safety torx screws, (4×) suction cups, and remove base plate. 4. Remove side with power cord exiting by removing (4×) Phillips head screws. Slide bar and carrage will come off. 5. Unplug wires from switch (black wire is middle on mine, take a before photo of yours for reference). 6. Loosen and Remove (2×) Nylon nuts (10mm socket) from thickness adjuster shaft. Thickness knob/ shaft and metal angle from above can come out. (Two slots in angle, both give same thickness cut. Peg in first slot lines up the alignment marks properly). 7. Remove (3×) Phillips head screws to remove plastic spacer under thickness adjuster. 8. Where blade attached, Remove (5×) safety torx screws and the two part plate. (Grease inside is sticky, place upwards). 8. Remove gear. Place on grease from before. 9. Unbolt motor from back support (3×) Allen bolts with 5mm Allen wrench. (Rubber vibration pad near base plate). 10. Motor and side plate with power cord can be removed from base. 11. Unbolt upright from base plate (3×) safety torx screws. 12. At this point you can clean lots of items and follow reverse order to put them back together.
@@aroundthehousewithkaytom162 I think this is a great video and was just what I needed for cleaning after typical home use - I was happy to see your advice of diluted bleach rinse /wipe down , too. The extra instructions commented here would be useful for a periodic mechanical maintenence routine. Thank you 👍
I appreciate you posting this video. I could tell that you press the center to remove the blade but couldn't see how to turn it without risking breaking it. It really was just that easy.
Very very helpful. We found an FS150 at a second-hand store for $15 that looked new but was ewwwwww in the nooks and crannies and the blade was stained. I wiped and soaked, then looked for help. Out of four finds, yours is the best by far. In your honor, the thing that slides on the bar only allowed the SS tray to come off, but ewwwwww. I've washed and poked twice so far. Next, is the Brilllo for the blade and some brushes. THEN, your bleach approach. Thank you so much.
Good job, but you left out the hardest part! Crud gets under the thickness adjuster's sliding plate. You need to take it apart to get at the stuff, no other way. First you take off the backing plate (the plate that the food rests up against) by its 2 8MM cap nuts that are found in by the thickness knob, and you take off the backing plate and keep the two plain headed screws. Now you can see the crud under there that needs cleaning, but you can't get at it yet. You have to turn the slicer over and remove the eight screws holding the suction cup feet and the bottom cover on, they are #15 SECURITY Torx. (not regular torx) These are not a common driver head. It has a little center hole in the drive bit to keep people from taking the cover off with a regular Torx bit. What are they afraid you'll discover? Now you can see up under and behind the power switch, where there's a stover nut and a regular nut that regulate how much drag there is on the thickness knob. That keeps your thickness setting. (I had to loosen mine a bit because the wife couldn't operate the thickness knob, it was set so tight from the factory) Three Phillips head screws and two 8MM nuts on the same shaft and the thickness mechanism comes apart. Now if you take that stuff off you can get to the old crud that needs cleaning out of there. Yer right, it ain't for lazy people. :)
I wish you had turned it on so we could see how it works.More specificlly how FAST it turns because mine seems to turn so slow.Can I open it up and oil it?
My neighbor just got one of these at a yard sale and couldn't figure out how to get the blade off. This video was a great help! Thank you!
I have a job interview tomorrow I'm practicing this over and over they asked me if I ever used one I said yes but I have no experience im gonna get the job God willing thanks to youuu keep making more videos
Thanks for the video 📹
Thank you so much!! I couldn't for the life of me figure this out til I found the video!
worked great thanks for your help, mine was a bit different then yours but it basically worked for mine as well. :) worked like a charm!
This video was a great start but can be taken further. This is as far as I needed to take mine to get most everything clean. I believe this covers most steps in the proper order.
-
1. Assure to unplug the machine.
2. Remove (2×) Acorn nuts and flat nuts from thickness backstop angle.
3. Remove (8×) T 20 H safety torx screws, (4×) suction cups, and remove base plate.
4. Remove side with power cord exiting by removing (4×) Phillips head screws. Slide bar and carrage will come off.
5. Unplug wires from switch (black wire is middle on mine, take a before photo of yours for reference).
6. Loosen and Remove (2×) Nylon nuts (10mm socket) from thickness adjuster shaft. Thickness knob/ shaft and metal angle from above can come out. (Two slots in angle, both give same thickness cut. Peg in first slot lines up the alignment marks properly).
7. Remove (3×) Phillips head screws to remove plastic spacer under thickness adjuster.
8. Where blade attached, Remove
(5×) safety torx screws and the two part plate. (Grease inside is sticky, place upwards).
8. Remove gear. Place on grease from before.
9. Unbolt motor from back support (3×) Allen bolts with 5mm Allen wrench. (Rubber vibration pad near base plate).
10. Motor and side plate with power cord can be removed from base.
11. Unbolt upright from base plate (3×) safety torx screws.
12. At this point you can clean lots of items and follow reverse order to put them back together.
Thanks for watching and commenting. Happy New Year!
@@aroundthehousewithkaytom162 I think this is a great video and was just what I needed for cleaning after typical home use - I was happy to see your advice of diluted bleach rinse /wipe down , too. The extra instructions commented here would be useful for a periodic mechanical maintenence routine. Thank you 👍
This video was fantastic! I was getting so frustrated trying to figure out how to get the meat tray off! Thank you for making this video
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you! I got a Waring Pro at an auction that didn’t have any instructions.
I slicer has only a few different features but your video was great!
Glad it helped
I appreciate you posting this video. I could tell that you press the center to remove the blade but couldn't see how to turn it without risking breaking it. It really was just that easy.
This is the proper way to clean a Waring Food Slicer.
Very very helpful. We found an FS150 at a second-hand store for $15 that looked new but was ewwwwww in the nooks and crannies and the blade was stained. I wiped and soaked, then looked for help. Out of four finds, yours is the best by far. In your honor, the thing that slides on the bar only allowed the SS tray to come off, but ewwwwww. I've washed and poked twice so far. Next, is the Brilllo for the blade and some brushes. THEN, your bleach approach.
Thank you so much.
Once disassembled I took my to the garage used the air compresser air blower gun. Brought it back in the house and wiped it down.
How do you loosen the slice control knob, mine is hard to move. I know iits not suppose to be loose. But easier to move. Do you clean that too?
Great job. Now I know how to clean my meat slicer!
Great video. Very helpful.The instructions that come with the slicer do not show how to do this. Saved lots of time.
Good job, but you left out the hardest part!
Crud gets under the thickness adjuster's sliding plate. You need to take it apart to get at the stuff, no other way.
First you take off the backing plate (the plate that the food rests up against) by its 2 8MM cap nuts that are found in by the thickness knob, and you take off the backing plate and keep the two plain headed screws.
Now you can see the crud under there that needs cleaning, but you can't get at it yet. You have to turn the slicer over and remove the eight screws holding the suction cup feet and the bottom cover on, they are #15 SECURITY Torx. (not regular torx) These are not a common driver head. It has a little center hole in the drive bit to keep people from taking the cover off with a regular Torx bit. What are they afraid you'll discover?
Now you can see up under and behind the power switch, where there's a stover nut and a regular nut that regulate how much drag there is on the thickness knob. That keeps your thickness setting. (I had to loosen mine a bit because the wife couldn't operate the thickness knob, it was set so tight from the factory) Three Phillips head screws and two 8MM nuts on the same shaft and the thickness mechanism comes apart.
Now if you take that stuff off you can get to the old crud that needs cleaning out of there.
Yer right, it ain't for lazy people. :)
Mine seems to turn too slow.Can I open it up and clean the shaft or oil it?
I wish you had turned it on so we could see how it works.More specificlly how FAST it turns because mine seems to turn so slow.Can I open it up and oil it?
The drive gear on mine has lost a few teeth--how do you replace it?
Cuisinart website or call Cuisinart
@@lifeOfBarneyMusic Thanks, Bud!
@@Joe_Goofball
Did you replace the drive gear? Mine is completely broken with no teeth
@@guillex2k No...
Have a 1st generation
Not many people have a meat slicer.
It's the cat's ass for slicing up homemade bread out of the bread machine.