Had the same situation when I bought my nut slotting files. 3 thin ones are very wobbly so built holders out of old fretboard offcuts. 3 grub screws to hold. Used super glue to harden to wood around the holes before tapping for grub screws. Works great.
@@CrimsonCustomGuitars tap the hole, flood the threads w superglue, and re-chase the threads once the glue hardens. Works great with 3d printed parts too!
Once, I was forced to make a tool with which to extract a broken tap from a hole so I cut two perpendicular slots into the end of a steel tube I found, then ground down the four little pieces created by those cuts so they were small enough to fit into the spaces between the taps cutting surfaces, it did work surprisingly well and yes, I was rather proud of myself after having extracted the broken 8-32 tap!
I use a broken microplane from my chef bag . I used an eye glass flathead to open up the little blades just a touch . It's much faster and cleaner than anything I've used hogging away wood while carving necks and bodies . Even better than a saw rasp or file .
I once made a downhole cutter to install some down lights in my lounge out of an old piece of hacksaw blade. Head to snap the hacksaw blade off by folding it backwards and forwards. But luckily got the right length. And then used an old piece of twig outside in the hacksaw mounting blade hole and fashioned a crude handle out of duct tape. Worked an absolute treat and was so much easier to use than the recommended craft knife. I see that similar things are available for sale but I was broke at the time.
I would have probably put the blade in the dremel tool, cut the slot with it and have the whole job finished already 😅 However, then there wouldn't have been a video to watch for half an hour on a Thursday night, so thank you for this.
I want one just for the beautiful wood and finish. And you can never have too many different types of tools. Sometimes a tool used the "wrong" way is the right tool for the job. If you drill holes in the saw blade and use a removable pin to lock it, you can rotate the blade when it gets dull. I've got a bunch of thin small pieces of oak, like a mini version of parquet, that could be used in pairs to make similar tools. Like mounting small sanding discs and wheels, for precise applications where a Dremel is too powerful. Great stuff ✌✌
My "One Jig to Rule Them all". Its just a home made router flattening jig. But the sides are high enough that i have used it to 1. Flatten all the material for a Les Paul build, 2. Use it as a perfectly flat gluing base for the body, 3. Use a home made sine plate to router in the neck relief and matching neck pocket and 4. Use it as a top down mount for cutting the binding on the carved top. Many uses for an offcut of melamine and some planed 1x4 pine. I think at least half the fun of building things is coming up with solutions to the problems we come across.
I'm definitely going to make one. Don't have such a nice piece of maple for it, but there's always beech or ash, which we normally use for tool handles.
Really enjoy seeing the full thought process of making tools for a specific use. As for the question you posed about using another tool (welders parallel clamp) to achieve the same outcome. IMHO I feel it best to actually make a new tool like you have done cause this allows for the setting and fine tuning of the tools use and it can always be set and ready to use. if one combines tools to make another, then if you need the original tools you have to disassemble the new tool and reset it if needed again in the future. Besides, who doesn't prefer making their own tools?
@@JamesMears76 I’ve found out the name for it is a tracing wheel. It's used to transfer markings from a pattern onto fabric or to create perforations along the fabric. So I guess only faintly reminiscent…
I think I'll make one. But I think I might put a slight 10 degree angle on the handle. It'll require a proper finger joint, as it will need to be made from 2 pieces of wood, though.
At the end of last year beging of this I restored a saw. This left me with a problem as I now needed to sharpen it. I had no saw vice. My response to this problem make one.
As far as seeing the cut, maybe mount the blade on the outside. Would there be any benefit shortening the tip of the handle so as to be able to use the handle vertically?
I've been wondering what that metal square on your bench was at 14 minutes. I thought the stop would fold up with a hole underneath so you could bolt something through the work top or put those crowbar type clamps through it for work holding.
I made a plane similar to a coachmaker's plan to cut a chamfer on a 50' long white oak plank. The chamfer would have been cut prior to fastening the plank on the hull, but our anarchist collective went awry. It worked well, although it took most of the day to plane the chamfer.
I know I made some sort of tool many years ago, I just don't remember if it was for a carpentry project or an automotive mechanical project, one of the problems of getting older is gaps in memory.
It's a nice wee tool but I can't help but wonder if one of those small fret saws would have done the job just as well? Or is the blade too thick on those?
While appreciating your preference for using hand tools couldn't the same result be achieved by using the Dremel saw blade with a Dremel tool as intended?
I really miss seeing guitars being made, the longer series like the Complication, etc. Am I following the wrong channel, does Crimson do it on another channel that I just haven't followed? Or is it that Ben is too busy with things that he can't devote that much time to a longer build right now? I like the way it used to be with tool content being made once in a while but the main uploads were guitar builds. I'm asking genuinely, I just may be out of the loop and not know how things work on the UA-cams here.
The current "Hand tool only" build is a long build series, it's just not continuous. It started as a one-day kind of thing, and now has gone on (off and on) for a couple of years and a couple dozen episodes.
The tool is designed to cut a vertical slit through 6 mm veneer on an upcoming build. Even a flexi-cable Dremel is too big to do that - but an oscillating tool with the correct type of blade might work.
I think that would be good for cutting fret slots in very hard aluminum. All my fret saws just glide over it leaving only scratches. Not that any one cares about making aluminum fret boards I'm just trying it, it has been frustrating.
@@normbarrows2 I tried milling I broke the bit :-( There are fret saws for rotary arm saws. I do have a extremely good Festool miter. I actually have the patent for no tang frets, Parker stole it from me and never gave me a penny. Its very hard to remove the tang perfectly but I may resort to that. I ordered a new bit and am going to try again with the milling. I think there is a learning curve for doing this with such hard aluminum. I'll look for a fret saw that fits my Festool. Thanks for the feedback.
@@anthonyb5279 Ken Parker uses a Dremel to grind the bottoms of fret ends after nipping the tangs - a concave bottom helps ensure the end sits flat on the fingerboard. I still don't quite get how slots and tangs would work in aluminum. Milling a fretless "sawtooth" fingerboard is another option. Ben used one on a build. I once notched a fingerboard then glued in rod stock for frets. As long as the notches are uniform in width and depth, it works fine.
@@normbarrows2 Well did an experiment first. I cut a slot into the hard aluminum and tested the stainless frets and they grabbed really good it was hard to get them back out. I just need to cut slower so the bit don't break. I ordered a new bit well a few as they seem very fragile. I Looked for some of those radial blades WOOOO some of them were over $400!
I don't know about lately, but he was getting it reworked/fixed a while back (and head blew up like a beach ball from some kind of anaphylactic reaction)
I would like to have one just to ask people what it is, and enjoy the faces and head scratches. 😅 Before finally revealing, I'd say: medieval eye surgery🤣
Vice grips and Dremel blade vs custom tool: Just admit you enjoy 18th and 19th century woodworking tools. They're slower, but much more Zen. Eggbeater drill, and bit & brace are the only two I don't really care for.
I stopped watching crimson videos a few years ago, I thought I would give this a watch. I remember now why I stopped. Ben’s talking puts me to sleep cause he is soooooooooooooo boring. 🥱
Had the same situation when I bought my nut slotting files. 3 thin ones are very wobbly so built holders out of old fretboard offcuts. 3 grub screws to hold. Used super glue to harden to wood around the holes before tapping for grub screws. Works great.
you are one of the cool ones.. not enough people believe that wood can be tapped.. it opens up so many possibilities :)
@@CrimsonCustomGuitars tap the hole, flood the threads w superglue, and re-chase the threads once the glue hardens. Works great with 3d printed parts too!
Once, I was forced to make a tool with which to extract a broken tap from a hole so I cut two perpendicular slots into the end of a steel tube I found, then ground down the four little pieces created by those cuts so they were small enough to fit into the spaces between the taps cutting surfaces, it did work surprisingly well and yes, I was rather proud of myself after having extracted the broken 8-32 tap!
I'd have absolutely no use for it........ Still want one.
A "tool of purpose" is always a joy to use.
Thanks for validating my collecting of beautiful bits of wood and tools.
Our pleasure!
I use a broken microplane from my chef bag . I used an eye glass flathead to open up the little blades just a touch . It's much faster and cleaner than anything I've used hogging away wood while carving necks and bodies . Even better than a saw rasp or file .
I once made a downhole cutter to install some down lights in my lounge out of an old piece of hacksaw blade. Head to snap the hacksaw blade off by folding it backwards and forwards. But luckily got the right length.
And then used an old piece of twig outside in the hacksaw mounting blade hole and fashioned a crude handle out of duct tape.
Worked an absolute treat and was so much easier to use than the recommended craft knife.
I see that similar things are available for sale but I was broke at the time.
Superglue is a wretched smell, but the quickness and solidness of the finish can't be beat
How tall does a luthier have to be to qualify as "minI?"
I would have probably put the blade in the dremel tool, cut the slot with it and have the whole job finished already 😅 However, then there wouldn't have been a video to watch for half an hour on a Thursday night, so thank you for this.
Exactly, came here to say that. Although I suppose this hand-controlled tool is much safer and less prone to "oops"
Definetly going to be making one, looks beautiful Ben!
I want one just for the beautiful wood and finish.
And you can never have too many different types of tools.
Sometimes a tool used the "wrong" way is the right tool for the job.
If you drill holes in the saw blade and use a removable pin to lock it,
you can rotate the blade when it gets dull.
I've got a bunch of thin small pieces of oak,
like a mini version of parquet,
that could be used in pairs to make similar tools.
Like mounting small sanding discs and wheels,
for precise applications where a Dremel is too powerful.
Great stuff
✌✌
My "One Jig to Rule Them all". Its just a home made router flattening jig. But the sides are high enough that i have used it to 1. Flatten all the material for a Les Paul build, 2. Use it as a perfectly flat gluing base for the body, 3. Use a home made sine plate to router in the neck relief and matching neck pocket and 4. Use it as a top down mount for cutting the binding on the carved top. Many uses for an offcut of melamine and some planed 1x4 pine. I think at least half the fun of building things is coming up with solutions to the problems we come across.
Always fun!! (Ben, looking fit. Hope things are good for you.)
I love that tool. It's beautiful
Think it'd work nicely as a fret slot cleaning/deepening tool? Looks amazing
How about using it to cut a three or five way switch slot?
I'm definitely going to make one. Don't have such a nice piece of maple for it, but there's always beech or ash, which we normally use for tool handles.
I love a bit of ash for a tool handle.. and I've already come across several times where this came in useful :)
Great tool Ben
Nice little tool. I made one like it with a hack saw blade. It has come in handy.
Probably would use the tool, but there is something to be said for finishing a build
Thanks for sharing.
I like that it cuts on pull stroke on one side and push on the other side...
Really enjoy seeing the full thought process of making tools for a specific use. As for the question you posed about using another tool (welders parallel clamp) to achieve the same outcome. IMHO I feel it best to actually make a new tool like you have done cause this allows for the setting and fine tuning of the tools use and it can always be set and ready to use. if one combines tools to make another, then if you need the original tools you have to disassemble the new tool and reset it if needed again in the future. Besides, who doesn't prefer making their own tools?
Crimson guitars do fine pizza cutters😂
Suitable for muffin based pizzas 😁
I seem to recall a sewing tool something like that, maybe for marking seams? Only the cutting wheel rolled.
A rotary knife for cutting fabrics?
@@JamesMears76 I’ve found out the name for it is a tracing wheel. It's used to transfer markings from a pattern onto fabric or to create perforations along the fabric. So I guess only faintly reminiscent…
I think I'll make one. But I think I might put a slight 10 degree angle on the handle. It'll require a proper finger joint, as it will need to be made from 2 pieces of wood, though.
Want one. I don't have pretty scrap, but I do have the other parts. Weekend project? Hmm.
That would be a decent tool for cutting small switch slots, or fret slots.
At the end of last year beging of this I restored a saw. This left me with a problem as I now needed to sharpen it. I had no saw vice. My response to this problem make one.
Thats one spicy chop stick....
As far as seeing the cut, maybe mount the blade on the outside.
Would there be any benefit shortening the tip of the handle so as to be able to use the handle vertically?
Yes.....I've had to make a brake piston rewind tool on two separate occasions
I've been wondering what that metal square on your bench was at 14 minutes. I thought the stop would fold up with a hole underneath so you could bolt something through the work top or put those crowbar type clamps through it for work holding.
I made a plane similar to a coachmaker's plan to cut a chamfer on a 50' long white oak plank. The chamfer would have been cut prior to fastening the plank on the hull, but our anarchist collective went awry. It worked well, although it took most of the day to plane the chamfer.
Anyone else just see a small tool and immediately want one 😂
I know I made some sort of tool many years ago, I just don't remember if it was for a carpentry project or an automotive mechanical project, one of the problems of getting older is gaps in memory.
It's a nice wee tool but I can't help but wonder if one of those small fret saws would have done the job just as well? Or is the blade too thick on those?
Regarding making the tool or using the welders pliers: I’d use the welders tool and show the one I made to others.
While appreciating your preference for using hand tools couldn't the same result be achieved by using the Dremel saw blade with a Dremel tool as intended?
always make the tool, better ergonomics creates better work
X-acto makes some very thin razor saw blades. Not sure if thinner than Dremel.
Is it just a thinner version of the "mini saw" you (I assume it's you x) ) used to cleanup fret saw cuts ?
I really miss seeing guitars being made, the longer series like the Complication, etc. Am I following the wrong channel, does Crimson do it on another channel that I just haven't followed? Or is it that Ben is too busy with things that he can't devote that much time to a longer build right now? I like the way it used to be with tool content being made once in a while but the main uploads were guitar builds. I'm asking genuinely, I just may be out of the loop and not know how things work on the UA-cams here.
The current "Hand tool only" build is a long build series, it's just not continuous. It started as a one-day kind of thing, and now has gone on (off and on) for a couple of years and a couple dozen episodes.
I actually made one similar out of a hacksaw blade
Why not, you know, use the Dremel?
I suspect he's making this for the hand tool only build
The tool is designed to cut a vertical slit through 6 mm veneer on an upcoming build. Even a flexi-cable Dremel is too big to do that - but an oscillating tool with the correct type of blade might work.
What's wrong with a good old Azebiki?
I think that would be good for cutting fret slots in very hard aluminum. All my fret saws just glide over it leaving only scratches. Not that any one cares about making aluminum fret boards I'm just trying it, it has been frustrating.
Try a milling machine, a very thin metal blade on a radial arm saw, or forego slots and just glue frets in place.
@@normbarrows2 I tried milling I broke the bit :-( There are fret saws for rotary arm saws. I do have a extremely good Festool miter. I actually have the patent for no tang frets, Parker stole it from me and never gave me a penny. Its very hard to remove the tang perfectly but I may resort to that. I ordered a new bit and am going to try again with the milling. I think there is a learning curve for doing this with such hard aluminum. I'll look for a fret saw that fits my Festool. Thanks for the feedback.
@@anthonyb5279 Ken Parker uses a Dremel to grind the bottoms of fret ends after nipping the tangs - a concave bottom helps ensure the end sits flat on the fingerboard. I still don't quite get how slots and tangs would work in aluminum. Milling a fretless "sawtooth" fingerboard is another option. Ben used one on a build. I once notched a fingerboard then glued in rod stock for frets. As long as the notches are uniform in width and depth, it works fine.
@@normbarrows2 Well did an experiment first. I cut a slot into the hard aluminum and tested the stainless frets and they grabbed really good it was hard to get them back out. I just need to cut slower so the bit don't break. I ordered a new bit well a few as they seem very fragile. I Looked for some of those radial blades WOOOO some of them were over $400!
What happened with the head tattoo?
I don't know about lately, but he was getting it reworked/fixed a while back (and head blew up like a beach ball from some kind of anaphylactic reaction)
I would like to have one just to ask people what it is, and enjoy the faces and head scratches. 😅
Before finally revealing, I'd say: medieval eye surgery🤣
Was it just me who saw the thumbnail and read "mini weiner saw"? 🤣
You could cut a thin crust pizza
Vice grips and Dremel blade vs custom tool: Just admit you enjoy 18th and 19th century woodworking tools. They're slower, but much more Zen. Eggbeater drill, and bit & brace are the only two I don't really care for.
Slot cutting anyone? Getting a handle on things. Way better than a slot in a dowel as it wont roll in the hand or on the bench as much.
My Moroccan neighbors have better tools than me 😅 when they challenge me I suddenly fnd myself voting labour
I stopped watching crimson videos a few years ago, I thought I would give this a watch. I remember now why I stopped. Ben’s talking puts me to sleep cause he is soooooooooooooo boring. 🥱