Excellent explanation. My father (an old time mechanic) first showed me how they worked by heating one up with a torch. Just like you did here. And we crushed an old one in a vice just as you. Mind you that was 50 years ago, but your explanation took me right back to that day with my dad. ;)
Did not know that the origin of these bearings was Chrysler Motor. So much came from the US manufacturing industry that was shared throughout the world. Make America Great Again!
I worked in a plant that made some of these and when they come out of the sintering oven, cooling section, they would travel down a conveyor and then drop into a "V" conveyor tank with 90-weight oil in it. They were in it long enough to absorb some oil, per specifications, then come out the other side for final cooling and packaging.
@@gregorywells7905 Yes, capillary or wicking would pull the oil in. At the time of manufacture, the first oiling would fill the empty cavities, then this oil would ozz out with temperature rise as the rotating shaft heated it and as it cooled the oil would be wicked back into the cavities. The brass and bronze material is also perfect, steel is not, as it would absorb the carbon atoms in the oil readily into its lattice.
In the 42 year of my mechanical and machinist apprenticeship, always grateful to learn more. Used lots of these bushings over the years and this was still a very interesting video, thanks Pete! Years ago working with Ice Cream wrapping machines, we have a visit by an Engineer from the Anderson Wrapping Machine Company, USA. The story he told was old Mr. Anderson going ballistic and wanting to fire anyone caught drilling or reaming these Oilite Bushings. Their approved method was to broach the bushing so as not to obscure the oil pores and lead to shaft failure. I don't know where you would get these small diameter broaches!
In the '70's I worked for Xerox. We had a copier that used an oilite bushing/bearing. It was on a dashpot, (remember those?). The page was scanned by a light and mirror assembly that was pulled by a cable and at the end of scan a solenoid released the wind up and springs pulled the mirror assy back. At the end the assy hit the dashpot to slow it down to start again. The oilite thinger kept the shaft straight and would require cleaning from the paper dust every 5K scans. In the '80's it changed to stepper motors in both directions.
Sintered bearings are normally press fit on the OD which slightly reduces the ID for application. Rather than reaming, bearings were ball sized with precision balls pressed thru the ID. This method did not tear the inner substrate and rendered a smooth and precise bearing area for shaft rotation. Great presentation sir.
Once again Mr. Pete demonstrates that he knows more about a topic where I think that I am highly informed. Your video image microscope is a toy that I have not previously seen. It worked well for this video. Good job Lyle!
Well Mr Pete after watching you for near 10 years you have never failed to impress me. This is a new high, you can now be titled our resident metalurgest. Hats off.
That was a great video. Very good explanation of the different bearings. That magnification was really interesting. I always wondered if you needed ab oil hole for those but now see its nit At all necessary. Never too old to learn!!! Thanks so much!
"Always saving for the right moment, which never seems to come." Same here. Except that I justify all my saving by seeing it as an act of stewardship for folks who will come after me. Truth be known, of all the boxes of salvaged parts and thousands of fasteners I would have to guess that I probably use a very minimal percentage of all of that in my creations and repairs. I'll never use it all up. Hopefully after I leave this earth it will all get passed on to someone else who can use it. And so on and so on. As always, I love your content Mr Pete!
another interesting video . many years ago I worked in an automotive electrical rebuild shop, they used to have a can of oil soaking oilite bushings for the common starters at each rebuild bench
Oilite bearings were a common component of slot cars for many years, typically used with 1/8 and 3/32 inch axles. My research indicates that the voids in the sintered material were created by mixing plastic powder into the bronze powder to be sintered into a solid and under the heat and compression of the process, the plastic would vaporize, leaving the voids that formed the metal sponge. Based on old and failing memory, the best bearing material was created with an 18% plastic component. We rabid slot racers often liked to replace the low-quality factory Oilite 'fill' with higher quality oil. The usual technique was to place the bearing on the clean tip of a soldering iron until the factory oil boiled out and then to drop it into an appropriate solvent, acetone or something similar. Once cooled, reheat the bearing on the soldering iron tip again and when hot, drop it into a better oil, typically a modern synthetic like one of the Mobil 1 products, which would be sucked into the the Oilite. One point: Oilite bearings do tend to wear shafts running in them more than well-fitted, well-lubricated solid bearing bronze bushings. The theory is that the porous Oilite does not allow for the presence of the hydrodynamic wedge that forms within a well-lubricated solid bushing, thus preventing most metal-to-metal contact. The benefit of the Oilite is that consistent lubrication of the bushing is far less critical.
Very interesting comment, thank you very much. I did not know that about the plastic. One of my follow-up videos was going to be on the oil film of plain Babbitt bearings such as automobile crankshaft.
Hi Mrpete when i bought my lathe from my mates Grandad there was all sorts of metals, there was some screw top tubs and tubs they had solid bar oilite in oil i did make two bushing for somebody and yes its different to machine thanks Mrpete cheers
Pete, in Mansfield, Ohio not far from me is or was a bronze foundry called Bunting Bearing.When I worked for a steel supply in Mansfield we sold round forgings to Bunting I assume to make crucibles. AL B.
Have to laugh ...there are others as crazy, who scrap stuff and "stock" reusable parts. Often times those bearings have seen very little use. ....still wish you were one of my shop teachers.
Saving for the right moment that never seems to come, love it6, you and me both. Some ( my wife) might say hoarder but we know the value of this stuff :)
I’m retired now, but I used to keep a stash of various diameter cast bronze bar stock in the shop. Very handy, especially if you needed to make a “bastard size” bush. Also had a couple of 2” Meehanite continuous cast iron bars. People don’t realize the value of such material.
Just fascinating! The microscope really does show their structure completely unambiguously. I thought it might be too subtle and hard to capture on screen but the surface is a genuine sponge! I think there is a _lot_ of potential to show machining processes and their end-results through the microscope. For instance a series of images showing the polishing down of a surface with first coarse sandpaper and then through the finer grades down to jewellers rouge would be fascinating to see up-close. The profile of threads and perhaps the matching cutting tool would be another area where an up-close view was beneficial.
@@mrpete222 I haven't, but I will certainly check it out! While I continued to think about the topic it struck me that the tool or especially the blade sharpening process would be very interesting to see under the microscope as well. The different profiles of edge and removing the burr are quite hard to explain so it would be helpful to physically see them.
Great subject and history on it, and the micro shots were very good, and useful. I remember these from the small machines I serviced back in the 70s, and still have a few hanging around.
I had always wondered where the name Oil-lite came from. I have several old cast iron miter boxes (Goodell-Pratt, Stanley, and Millers Falls) that advertised that they had Oil-lite bearings. Very interesting.
i remember the first one i chaged as a young auto apprentice, the bodd told me to set the bushing on my thumb making kind of a seal against the skin. and filled the cavity with new oil. then my index finger closed the to p of the bushing and slight pressure, i could see the oils weeping out of seemingly nowhere. that was almost 40years ago
Thanks, Mr Pete. This answers a lot of old questions I've had about these, except for why some items have a warning that goes something like "Contains permanently oiled bearings. Do not oil." It also explains why my dieing window air conditioner would squeak after turning on, but then get quiet after it "warmed up". That blower shaft is now frozen though, so I'm curious what type of oil would best revive it, with a minimum of tear-down. I'm thinking either mineral oil or lathe oil that's been diluted with acetone may seep in from the outside and possibly leave the oil behind while cleaning off some of the "it's stuck" residue.
I usually pull the motor apart & clean the shaft with some scotchbrite or steel wool to remove the residue, then out a few drops of 5W20 synthetic oil in the bearings. They work like new again for a few years.
On a lot of small motors, in addition to the oilite bearing, there is an area around the bearing packed with some kind of wicking material (sometime it looks sometimes like wood saw dust others a wool wick) that is saturated with oil. If you go to the trouble to take the motor out of the AC unit, it would be good to remove the cover off the packing (its press fit) and saturate that with oil. It will make the motor go a lot longer before it needs attention again.
Sintered bearings are useful like ball bearings are useful. Other useful bearing types are sintered carbon-graphite bearings. The carbon-graphite is similar to the material that DC motor brushes are made out of. In a water pump, for example, the sintered graphite is lubricated by water (and graphite). Sintered metal bearings filled with graphite are also available. I have fixed vane-type water pumps that are internally made of sintered carbon-graphite. This was a great video. Your previous video on keyways was good too. But, round keys similar to square keys are useful. For example, a round-keyway for a pulley can be made using a milling cutter instead of a broach. Also, for example, a pulley and a shaft can be drilled lengthwise together to form the round keyway in the pulley and the shaft in one operation.
What makes them super cool to me is how "simple" the concept is, but how effective they are too. My Ultimaker 2 3D printer used them as part of the X/Y gantry assembly. My original Thingomatic 3D printer used them on all the axis, but I opted to change them to Igus polymer bearings.
At 5:31 "...saving for the right moment which never seems to come." It's easy to make the right moment occur. Just throw them away and the moment they're needed will be within the next 24 hours.
Totally enjoyed learning about this product Mr Pete and loved the microscope viewing also. I’ve seen a couple of these with the lip and wondered what they were for. Thanks for the lesson.
Have had a few where the replacement I made was done with self lubricating engineering plastic, as the application needed lubrication, but also could not contaminate, so Vesconite was the choice to machine them out of. Even replaced the plain nylon ones with Vesconite, so they would wear less, and got a better fit on the shaft, as the originals were not exactly close tolerance. Oilite is great, but always the factory fill of oil is not enough, best to take them, place in a cup of oil, and microwave them till hot, so that you can get the full charge of oil in. Or soak overnight in a warm place, though microwave works faster. When you buy a motor with oilite always helps to add exta oil from new, the manufacturers seem to think the bush production oil is enough, and never add any extra, I always find the felts in the motor are clean and white, with a black ring where that bush got hot and glazed itself. New bush, or scrape the glaze off, and oil it works well again.
I’ve had success in machining these for custom applications. Some oil leeches out during turning. I don’t remember where I saw it, but I’ve been able to re-infuse these by putting them in a cup of 30W non-detergent oil then placing the cup in a vacuum bell jar. Under vacuum the parts are “deaerated” and the voids are filled with oil. You can watch the air bubble out of the parts. It seems to work very well for me.
These are used exclusively in my very accurate Myford S7 lathe - there are over a dozen of them in there I think. Ive always wondered how critical it is to oil them via the oil cups.. Looks like its not that critical, and how neat is it that heat from friction auto-lubricates the shaft? Thanks for the cool vid, and props for the blowtorch idea.
Excellent explanation. My father (an old time mechanic) first showed me how they worked by heating one up with a torch. Just like you did here. And we crushed an old one in a vice just as you. Mind you that was 50 years ago, but your explanation took me right back to that day with my dad. ;)
👍👍👍👍
nice story - thanks for sharing!
my Dad did the same things with me, but I was too young and dumb to appreciate a lot of what he told me!
Did not know that the origin of these bearings was Chrysler Motor. So much came from the US manufacturing industry that was shared throughout the world. Make America Great Again!
I worked in a plant that made some of these and when they come out of the sintering oven, cooling section, they would travel down a conveyor and then drop into a "V" conveyor tank with 90-weight oil in it. They were in it long enough to absorb some oil, per specifications, then come out the other side for final cooling and packaging.
Very interesting, that they use 90 weight
Oh, so no pressure or vacuum was used, just simply dunked in an oil bath?
@@ianbutler1983 It's likely that capillary action was sufficient to 'charge' the bearing with the oil.
@@gregorywells7905 Yes, capillary or wicking would pull the oil in. At the time of manufacture, the first oiling would fill the empty cavities, then this oil would ozz out with temperature rise as the rotating shaft heated it and as it cooled the oil would be wicked back into the cavities. The brass and bronze material is also perfect, steel is not, as it would absorb the carbon atoms in the oil readily into its lattice.
When i was a kid, it was cereal and Saturday morning cartoons. Now, it’s coffee and Saturday morning Mr Pete videos. Life is good.
👍👍👍
In the 42 year of my mechanical and machinist apprenticeship, always grateful to learn more.
Used lots of these bushings over the years and this was still a very interesting video, thanks Pete!
Years ago working with Ice Cream wrapping machines, we have a visit by an Engineer from the Anderson Wrapping Machine Company, USA.
The story he told was old Mr. Anderson going ballistic and wanting to fire anyone caught drilling or reaming these Oilite Bushings.
Their approved method was to broach the bushing so as not to obscure the oil pores and lead to shaft failure.
I don't know where you would get these small diameter broaches!
Very interesting story, thank you
I really like the footage under the microscope. I will give your video an A+.
In the '70's I worked for Xerox. We had a copier that used an oilite bushing/bearing. It was on a dashpot, (remember those?). The page was scanned by a light and mirror assembly that was pulled by a cable and at the end of scan a solenoid released the wind up and springs pulled the mirror assy back. At the end the assy hit the dashpot to slow it down to start again. The oilite thinger kept the shaft straight and would require cleaning from the paper dust every 5K scans.
In the '80's it changed to stepper motors in both directions.
This is something new I don’t know about. I love the short subject series. Thank you Mr Pete.
They were a game changing invention, literally metal sponge. Thank you for a very informative video!
Sir, this video was so well done I have no doubt you are most definitely still in your prime.👍
👍😄
Sintered bearings are normally press fit on the OD which slightly reduces the ID for application. Rather than reaming, bearings were ball sized with precision balls pressed thru the ID. This method did not tear the inner substrate and rendered a smooth and precise bearing area for shaft rotation. Great presentation sir.
Thanks
Very interesting fact, thanks.
Once again Mr. Pete demonstrates that he knows more about a topic where I think that I am highly informed.
Your video image microscope is a toy that I have not previously seen. It worked well for this video.
Good job Lyle!
👍👍
Knew about these, but never took the time to actually look hard at one, thanks for the opportunity👍
Well Mr Pete after watching you for near 10 years you have never failed to impress me. This is a new high, you can now be titled our resident metalurgest. Hats off.
😀😀😀
That was a great video. Very good explanation of the different bearings. That magnification was really interesting. I always wondered if you needed ab oil hole for those but now see its nit At all necessary. Never too old to learn!!! Thanks so much!
Thank you Mr Pete. We appreciate you.
I use to work for a sentering company. After heat treatment the bearings are placed in a pressurized hot oil bath to force the oil into the pours.
👍
1960-1962 Pressed many Bunting bushings into refurbed cigar making machine castings during rebuilds. Used some Boston too. Thanks
👍👍
Around that same time I helped my grandfather repair and rebuild cigar machines as well. I think they were made by AMF.
@@manuelmaseda4875 Correct,. Our customers were located in Reading, Philadelphia, Florida and Puerto Rico, the cigar industry was on the downturn.
"Always saving for the right moment, which never seems to come."
Same here. Except that I justify all my saving by seeing it as an act of stewardship for folks who will come after me. Truth be known, of all the boxes of salvaged parts and thousands of fasteners I would have to guess that I probably use a very minimal percentage of all of that in my creations and repairs. I'll never use it all up. Hopefully after I leave this earth it will all get passed on to someone else who can use it. And so on and so on.
As always, I love your content Mr Pete!
I was literally reading about these last night while rebuilding my Atlas mill that uses these type of bearings. Great info. Thank you as always!
Mr. Oilite was a brilliant man.
Yes
Very nice and informative video Mr Pete! Loved the microscopy! My shop is also well stocked for every conceivable problem that never comes.
👍👍
Still the best shop teacher with a great topic. Thanks for sharing.
😀😀
another interesting video . many years ago I worked in an automotive electrical rebuild shop, they used to have a can of oil soaking oilite bushings for the common starters at each rebuild bench
Very interesting. You're still a great teacher!
Very interesting. You are a storehouse of metalurgical knowledge.
They are a wonder. I love oilites for all kinds of modeling projects. No fuss and in the right applications they last for ever.
Oilite bearings were a common component of slot cars for many years, typically used with 1/8 and 3/32 inch axles.
My research indicates that the voids in the sintered material were created by mixing plastic powder into the bronze powder to be sintered into a solid and under the heat and compression of the process, the plastic would vaporize, leaving the voids that formed the metal sponge. Based on old and failing memory, the best bearing material was created with an 18% plastic component.
We rabid slot racers often liked to replace the low-quality factory Oilite 'fill' with higher quality oil. The usual technique was to place the bearing on the clean tip of a soldering iron until the factory oil boiled out and then to drop it into an appropriate solvent, acetone or something similar. Once cooled, reheat the bearing on the soldering iron tip again and when hot, drop it into a better oil, typically a modern synthetic like one of the Mobil 1 products, which would be sucked into the the Oilite.
One point: Oilite bearings do tend to wear shafts running in them more than well-fitted, well-lubricated solid bearing bronze bushings. The theory is that the porous Oilite does not allow for the presence of the hydrodynamic wedge that forms within a well-lubricated solid bushing, thus preventing most metal-to-metal contact. The benefit of the Oilite is that consistent lubrication of the bushing is far less critical.
Very interesting comment, thank you very much. I did not know that about the plastic. One of my follow-up videos was going to be on the oil film of plain Babbitt bearings such as automobile crankshaft.
Hi Mrpete when i bought my lathe from my mates Grandad there was all sorts
of metals, there was some screw top tubs and tubs they had solid bar oilite
in oil i did make two bushing for somebody and yes its different to machine
thanks Mrpete cheers
Thanks
Great stuff MrPete! You also reminded me that I have to replace the worn out Oilite bearings in my ancient Craftsman belt drive grinder.
You explained that very well...you should have been a teacher...😁 Good video Mr Pete !
😀😀
Love the comment saving for the right moment... that never seems to come!
True
Love your short subject series! Looking forward to seeing you at Arn Fest 2022.
👍
So cool Mr. Pete! I use these all the time. What an excellent invention
Thanks, Mr. Pete! You're a great teacher! I never knew the history of these bearings or how they are produced. I'm adding this video to my favorites.
Pete, in Mansfield, Ohio not far from me is or was a bronze foundry called Bunting Bearing.When I worked for a steel supply in Mansfield we sold round forgings to Bunting I assume to make crucibles. AL B.
Thanks
Excellent explanation. Thanks very much. Keep your videos rolling out...
That was an amazing video! Love the microscope demonstration!
Thanks
Have to laugh ...there are others as crazy, who scrap stuff and "stock" reusable parts. Often times those bearings have seen very little use. ....still wish you were one of my shop teachers.
👍👍
Reminds me of the piston Sleeve's, especially tractor motors.
Great video Mr.Pete Thank you for showing.
Brilliant! Thanks for sharing 👍 🇬🇧
My dad taught me about Oillite bearings. Did not know they were a Chrysler invention!
Nice demo. Great material and a 1000 uses.
😀
Thank you very much, Sir. Another quality video.
Thanks Mr Pete excellent material I need to replace the steering shafts bushing in my mower I think I'll use this type.
Thanks I did not know that Chrysler Motors developed them. Thanks Mr. Pete.
Saturday morning class informative
Saving for the right moment that never seems to come, love it6, you and me both. Some ( my wife) might say hoarder but we know the value of this stuff :)
Hi Mr Pete, fascinating. More like that please.
Very Cool and interesting! Thanks Mr. Pete.
I enjoyed it, I have re-lubricated many motor bearings with the idea that I was refilling the sintered bronze. Ron W4BIN
I’m retired now, but I used to keep a stash of various diameter cast bronze bar stock in the shop. Very handy, especially if you needed to make a “bastard size” bush. Also had a couple of 2” Meehanite continuous cast iron bars. People don’t realize the value of such material.
Just fascinating! The microscope really does show their structure completely unambiguously. I thought it might be too subtle and hard to capture on screen but the surface is a genuine sponge!
I think there is a _lot_ of potential to show machining processes and their end-results through the microscope. For instance a series of images showing the polishing down of a surface with first coarse sandpaper and then through the finer grades down to jewellers rouge would be fascinating to see up-close. The profile of threads and perhaps the matching cutting tool would be another area where an up-close view was beneficial.
Thank you very much for some useful suggestions. Perhaps you saw my older video where I use an optical comparator?
@@mrpete222 I haven't, but I will certainly check it out!
While I continued to think about the topic it struck me that the tool or especially the blade sharpening process would be very interesting to see under the microscope as well. The different profiles of edge and removing the burr are quite hard to explain so it would be helpful to physically see them.
If I would have had a metal shop teacher like you I would have chose metal vs Woodwork!!! Ty mr Pete
😀😀
Great subject and history on it, and the micro shots were very good, and useful. I remember these from the small machines I serviced back in the 70s, and still have a few hanging around.
Thanks
I wondered about them, Mr Pete. Thankyou!
Very informative and thorough. Microscope pictures really made the whole idea come together. Thanks.
Thanks
Highly interesting. Thanks for posting. 👍
I had always wondered where the name Oil-lite came from. I have several old cast iron miter boxes (Goodell-Pratt, Stanley, and Millers Falls) that advertised that they had Oil-lite bearings. Very interesting.
👍
i remember the first one i chaged as a young auto apprentice, the bodd told me to set the bushing on my thumb making kind of a seal against the skin. and filled the cavity with new oil. then my index finger closed the to p of the bushing and slight pressure, i could see the oils weeping out of seemingly nowhere. that was almost 40years ago
Thanks, Mr Pete. This answers a lot of old questions I've had about these, except for why some items have a warning that goes something like "Contains permanently oiled bearings. Do not oil."
It also explains why my dieing window air conditioner would squeak after turning on, but then get quiet after it "warmed up". That blower shaft is now frozen though, so I'm curious what type of oil would best revive it, with a minimum of tear-down. I'm thinking either mineral oil or lathe oil that's been diluted with acetone may seep in from the outside and possibly leave the oil behind while cleaning off some of the "it's stuck" residue.
I usually pull the motor apart & clean the shaft with some scotchbrite or steel wool to remove the residue, then out a few drops of 5W20 synthetic oil in the bearings. They work like new again for a few years.
On a lot of small motors, in addition to the oilite bearing, there is an area around the bearing packed with some kind of wicking material (sometime it looks sometimes like wood saw dust others a wool wick) that is saturated with oil. If you go to the trouble to take the motor out of the AC unit, it would be good to remove the cover off the packing (its press fit) and saturate that with oil. It will make the motor go a lot longer before it needs attention again.
Good information, thank you Mr. Pete.
Sintered bearings are useful like ball bearings are useful. Other useful bearing types are sintered carbon-graphite bearings. The carbon-graphite is similar to the material that DC motor brushes are made out of. In a water pump, for example, the sintered graphite is lubricated by water (and graphite). Sintered metal bearings filled with graphite are also available.
I have fixed vane-type water pumps that are internally made of sintered carbon-graphite.
This was a great video. Your previous video on keyways was good too. But, round keys similar to square keys are useful. For example, a round-keyway for a pulley can be made using a milling cutter instead of a broach. Also, for example, a pulley and a shaft can be drilled lengthwise together to form the round keyway in the pulley and the shaft in one operation.
👍👍
What makes them super cool to me is how "simple" the concept is, but how effective they are too. My Ultimaker 2 3D printer used them as part of the X/Y gantry assembly. My original Thingomatic 3D printer used them on all the axis, but I opted to change them to Igus polymer bearings.
Thanks, Lyle. I never knew that about sintered bearings. Jon
FASCINATING! And up to your usual amazing standards. Thanks for the video.
Thanks
Great video Mr. Pete! Thanks 🙌✨
Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us🤗😎🤗😎
Gosh yeah! Neat video!
I didn't realize they would soak oil back up again.
Love that microscope. Neat!
Thank you for sharing. Enjoyed.👍👀
Well done Mr. Pete! Very informative, especially like the microscope.
These were used on the pilot truck of my steam engine. Enjoyed the video
Love this educational video, especially the microscope Footage!
Very instructive !
Thank you 👍👍👍
Good ole Mr Pete !
At 5:31 "...saving for the right moment which never seems to come." It's easy to make the right moment occur. Just throw them away and the moment they're needed will be within the next 24 hours.
lol
I used to sell, deliver and set up gym equipment and they put those bearings in the pivot/fulcrum areas of the machine/equipment.
👍
That was so impressive Mr. Pete!
Thanks
Good information,mrpete.Thank you.
Totally enjoyed learning about this product Mr Pete and loved the microscope viewing also. I’ve seen a couple of these with the lip and wondered what they were for. Thanks for the lesson.
Thanks
Informative and fun. Thanks, 'Teach'!
That was a good lesson for me, I am new to this, thanks a lot.
Thanks
Have had a few where the replacement I made was done with self lubricating engineering plastic, as the application needed lubrication, but also could not contaminate, so Vesconite was the choice to machine them out of. Even replaced the plain nylon ones with Vesconite, so they would wear less, and got a better fit on the shaft, as the originals were not exactly close tolerance. Oilite is great, but always the factory fill of oil is not enough, best to take them, place in a cup of oil, and microwave them till hot, so that you can get the full charge of oil in. Or soak overnight in a warm place, though microwave works faster. When you buy a motor with oilite always helps to add exta oil from new, the manufacturers seem to think the bush production oil is enough, and never add any extra, I always find the felts in the motor are clean and white, with a black ring where that bush got hot and glazed itself. New bush, or scrape the glaze off, and oil it works well again.
Thanks
I’ve had success in machining these for custom applications. Some oil leeches out during turning. I don’t remember where I saw it, but I’ve been able to re-infuse these by putting them in a cup of 30W non-detergent oil then placing the cup in a vacuum bell jar. Under vacuum the parts are “deaerated” and the voids are filled with oil. You can watch the air bubble out of the parts. It seems to work very well for me.
I am now a little smarter. Thanks, Lyle!
Excellent explanation and demonstration, thank you!
Thanks
Well done Mr. Pete!
Good video
Thanks Mrpete for sharing
Very good video, I have often seen these type bearings bur until now, had no O'Dea of their importance
😀😀👍
Saving hardware for "the right moment" is both a blessing and a curse. But we do it anyway.
Yes
Good stuff Professor.
Thank you Lyle
Thank you Mr. Pete love the microscope view very well done
Thanks
These are used exclusively in my very accurate Myford S7 lathe - there are over a dozen of them in there I think. Ive always wondered how critical it is to oil them via the oil cups.. Looks like its not that critical, and how neat is it that heat from friction auto-lubricates the shaft? Thanks for the cool vid, and props for the blowtorch idea.
👍👍
Great video Mr. Pete, love the microscope pictures!
Thanks
Thank you for posting
Another thumbs up for the microscope pictures. Please use them where needed in the future. 👍
Thanks
Thank you.
Lots of those in use in Snowblowers. I had also heard that some were impregnated with Graphite.
Thanks