All depends on what the cars being used for really. If I had the engine out the car for some reason then it's a worth while upgrade for peace of mind. The bolts stretch and have their own method of tightening, I'd have thought it would be the same process/torque for stock rods as forged. Worth checking tho
@steffrally what can I do if after I put the pistons attached to the crank, there is resistance to rotate? I feel that I need to push much harder than you do on the video
If everything has been lubed while building then it should turn smoothly, if it feels like your having to push hard I'd be pulling it back apart and measuring the big and little end gaps. I'd disconnect the pistons from the crank, and push them up out the way, see if they move freely, then try the crank on it's own to try narrow down where the problem lies. Checking ring and shell gaps is vital
@@Steffrallye Without the pistons, the crankshaft rotate freely and easily, i guess there is something could be wrong with the rods, although the pistons go up and down without any kind of unusual resistance
visionptcastlehill I’m using a Ktec Gen90 plug and play Ecu. It’s not the best on the market to handle these large injectors but it’s coping fine and covers most untill you start getting above 300bhp
@@Steffrallye hmmm. After watching the video I thought it was that. Is that oil baffle plate thing that clips onto the pump a standard part. ? I'm wondering if that is stopping oil splashing against bottom end n it's getting hottor than usual
@@percylfc7165 yes it's a standard baffle, clips are normally very good with oil but if one goes it normally is cylinder 3. The original engine was second hand so maybe damage was done before I bought it but also there wasnt tabbed shells so nothing really to stop them spinning
You missed 3 letters from the closing screen :D Any idea where I could get an engine from? I've been looking for a week, but haven't been able to find a decently priced decent mileage one
ahh bugger! can't even edit that now. ill just have to trim it sadly. Thank you! If you after just a standard engine the owners clubs are very good, tho most people use the Facebook pages these days. Sometimes it just takes putting a wanted post up and your be surprised what people have. Sadly i haven't got or know of one at the moment off the top of my head. Thank you for watching and the input.
I have put up a post on the Cliosport owners club, but only got one response, which is a full car that I can't really take home. In a ph1 owners group I got 1 guy, who has one with 120k miles on it, so I'm kinda scared of that one to be honest.
Yer its always nice to have a low milage replacement or one you can have confidence in. Remember tho you can use any of the engines from the 172 ph 1, 172 ph 2 and the 182.
kronoCSGO you just have to swop over the parts that differ, the block and the head are the same. Only difference I can think of is the 172 has the chimney type breather into the inlet. But this wouldn’t cause a issue putting the 182 into 172 as it still will be sealed off.
@@andrewtweedie8485 hey, been a little while since I did this but I have it written down somewhere, I roughly think it was 1 - 0.35mm, 2 - 0.40mm and oil - 0.35 but don't hold me to that 😅
So glad ur keeping f4r alive
Luckily managed to save this one
Hi, what clearances did you perform for the main bearings and conrod bearings? Thanks
F7R rod bearing?
How wise is using ARP bolts on stock rods? Heard some people say that you have to tighten them more than OEM bolts, and u screw up the rod??
All depends on what the cars being used for really. If I had the engine out the car for some reason then it's a worth while upgrade for peace of mind. The bolts stretch and have their own method of tightening, I'd have thought it would be the same process/torque for stock rods as forged. Worth checking tho
@steffrally what can I do if after I put the pistons attached to the crank, there is resistance to rotate? I feel that I need to push much harder than you do on the video
If everything has been lubed while building then it should turn smoothly, if it feels like your having to push hard I'd be pulling it back apart and measuring the big and little end gaps. I'd disconnect the pistons from the crank, and push them up out the way, see if they move freely, then try the crank on it's own to try narrow down where the problem lies. Checking ring and shell gaps is vital
@@Steffrallye Without the pistons, the crankshaft rotate freely and easily, i guess there is something could be wrong with the rods, although the pistons go up and down without any kind of unusual resistance
@@charlyfastdrivelp720 I'd be measuring the shell gap for the little ends then.
Nice. Subscribed
what ecu are you using? and did you have to modify the factory loom?
visionptcastlehill I’m using a Ktec Gen90 plug and play Ecu. It’s not the best on the market to handle these large injectors but it’s coping fine and covers most untill you start getting above 300bhp
And did you have to modify the factory loom?
visionptcastlehill no it’s a straight plug and play. Only thing I did was tap into the loom to add a electric Boost controller
Also what turbo exhaust manifold did you use?
@@visionptcastlehill I'm using a Ktec log manifold and down pipe. Theres also engine dynamics available
Why did he break the Conrod in the first place ?
Never found out sadly, oil starvation seems to be the only thought,
@@Steffrallye hmmm. After watching the video I thought it was that. Is that oil baffle plate thing that clips onto the pump a standard part. ? I'm wondering if that is stopping oil splashing against bottom end n it's getting hottor than usual
@@percylfc7165 yes it's a standard baffle, clips are normally very good with oil but if one goes it normally is cylinder 3. The original engine was second hand so maybe damage was done before I bought it but also there wasnt tabbed shells so nothing really to stop them spinning
You missed 3 letters from the closing screen :D
Any idea where I could get an engine from? I've been looking for a week, but haven't been able to find a decently priced decent mileage one
ahh bugger! can't even edit that now. ill just have to trim it sadly. Thank you!
If you after just a standard engine the owners clubs are very good, tho most people use the Facebook pages these days. Sometimes it just takes putting a wanted post up and your be surprised what people have. Sadly i haven't got or know of one at the moment off the top of my head. Thank you for watching and the input.
I have put up a post on the Cliosport owners club, but only got one response, which is a full car that I can't really take home. In a ph1 owners group I got 1 guy, who has one with 120k miles on it, so I'm kinda scared of that one to be honest.
Yer its always nice to have a low milage replacement or one you can have confidence in. Remember tho you can use any of the engines from the 172 ph 1, 172 ph 2 and the 182.
The 182 wouldn't work would it? I tought with that one I cant use my inlet manifold
kronoCSGO you just have to swop over the parts that differ, the block and the head are the same. Only difference I can think of is the 172 has the chimney type breather into the inlet. But this wouldn’t cause a issue putting the 182 into 172 as it still will be sealed off.
What engine is this?
Darren Astbury its mostly Clio 172 F4R engine.
@@Steffrallye Hi mate, what measurements did you gap your piston and oil rings to ?
@@andrewtweedie8485 hey, been a little while since I did this but I have it written down somewhere, I roughly think it was 1 - 0.35mm, 2 - 0.40mm and oil - 0.35 but don't hold me to that 😅
👍👍👍,(...?, no speak englis)❤ clio sport blue edition MEXICO