It’s possible you would want to increase the fuel tank size on the pump, under heavy load the fuel would likely run out in 6-8 hours, if it pours all night overnight it could run out of fuel. I would entertain a second cover for the electronics also as the plan is to leave it out in hurricane rains
If I were him, I'd install the pump inside, and invest in an exhaust system to get it out. Then he could permanently plumb this thing in, and with a battery floatcharger hooked to it, could have it ready to roll at a moment's notice. Not only could the pump be taken out by weather as you mention, if this is running without him around, as designed, it might "walk away."
@@Nevir202 You want the water intake to be as short and direct as possible, it already struggled to prime with this short hose when he did a demonstration.
@@FrozenHaxor There are a lot of things you could do to mitigate that issue. Putting the thing inside, either of the shop or a purpose built enclosure is the only thing that is going to mitigate those other issues I mentioned.
@@FrozenHaxor OK, maybe after half a million in legal fees and a decade in court, the judge will actually force him to do something about it. What are you going to do in the meantime?
I haven't lived in a flood zone for a long while, but I'm adding this to my brain toolbox in case I need it in the future. Brainstorming ideas to make it even better: 1) If it does not have a built in 120 VAC wall charger, it might be worth the $10-20 to get a battery minder to ease the maintenance load on that 12 VDC battery. 2) For redundancy, instead of one big pump it may be better to have multiple smaller pumps and rig the floats at slightly different heights. So you have fault tolerance in case one fails, and phased startups to conserve fuel and give you more time to react in truly dire floods. 3) The family over at Tiny Shiny Home has rigged some awesome wifi or cellularly controlled electronics, I think Jonathan uses Victron components and they come out to $30-50 for an app controlled setup. They've rigged notifications if an error light goes off, you could probably do similar with the signal for the floats tripping. And they have also rigged human commanded remote start in line with the manual start button/switch like what you used on your pump.
That is great insurance, Chris. Not a heft price for that level of protection. Happy to see you finally have a little peace of mind when a rainstorm hits.🙏 Don’t know if you’re gonna move your shop to your amazing property once you develop that land. Looks like higher ground and a lot more land!⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Yeah, flooding is a pain. My old man had his garage flood a couple times but then installed a massively overkill 70KVA generator from an old hospital and a bunch of pumps. Worth the investment. Also means we can power the whole neighbourhood if need be.
Having worked with pump systems for many years the weak point is the float switches. I presume it's the same in the US as the UK that mercury tilt switches are banned. Before that happened float switches were very reliable, now they all have a steel ball in a track which operates a switch and they are prone to sticking especially in a backup situation where they sit unused for long periods. One thing you could do is use two float switches in parallel in each position, as long as one works the pump will start. New ones annually might be advisable. Also some sort of remote camera system so that you can check it has started.
I got 3 electric basement pumps now all with a socket and a 20m cord. So if the power should go out I can just run those plugs upstairs and power them from a generator. Then I also bought a similar sized petrol pump like yours. I added wheels to mine and a little rack on top where I can hang all the pipes. So you can move the whole pump by yourself without anything draging. Also added a gas canister and a big water jug for priming.
Something to consider is those long plastic tubes one fills with water and acts like a flood barrier. They are relatively inexpensive. I have seen those effectively protect a house from rising water.
@@jeremyspecce I tested that actually and while on standby the battery lasted about 5 days before it was too low to crank the engine. With the solar maintainer I put on there that problem was eliminated for under $40!
The best thing you could do is increase the holding capacity of your underground system. There are several types of systems, ones that use large manifolds with pipe connecting to you "outlet" point. There is also a create systems (looks like milk creates) placed in a lined excavation and then filled in around it with clean stone. Talk to a civil engineer to figure out what would be best. I've been in excavation 27 years and have installed many different sized underground systems.
Good point! I wasn't clear in the video but when I have the gas powered pump set up and ready to go I have a hard piped 3" PVC line that also goes up to the street where the water can easily get into the municipal storm drain system. That system drains to the ocean about half a mile from my shop.
How big is the pit this will pull from? Obviously you want the dry basins to fill first but I would be worried that the sump pit isn't large enough and would lead to a bunch of short cycling. Perhaps putting the floats on the sump pit but the 3" suction line in the dry basin with access to a large volume of water to give the system some breathing room when at capacity.
Hey Chris. Sorry to see how much trouble it's causing you. But, when you first got your shop I asked what about water and flooding. Yeah, those sump pits can't handle deluge and flooding when it gets bad.
@@googacct the total lift of the pump from the suction port to the discharge port is less than 10’, so based on the chart/curve in the manual I should get about 300 - 325 gallons per minute. 18,000 gallons per hour conservatively. Based on the speed in which it emptied the 55 gallon pail I’d say that’s accurate
1" of rain on 3,000 sq ft would amount to 1,870 gallons of water. But the amount of water that flows in from the non-building area would be in addition to what comes off the building. If you estimated that there would be 2 - 3 times the amount of water coming in addition to off the roof - say another 4,000 to 6,000 gallons it would probably handle 2" of rain per hour and maybe 3" per hour. If there is more or less water coming in besides off the roof that would change that calculation.
Not to knock the other denizens of Long Island, but that would disappear rather quickly where I live. Do you have proper security, a cage or even better gates to your driveway at your location? I am a firm believer in the adage of out of sight is out of mind with a nice piece of equipment like that, I would make a nice cover system that keeps it out of weather and eyesight but still allows easy access to service and maintain. As far as flooding, your driveway is so low already but going lower allows more water to pool before flooding you out. you can go with a built up system, that stores water lower down, but that might limit the size of machines you can move around up top. Where you live, the freeze cycles might destroy a water pervious concrete that allows water storage until the pumps can finish, so I am really at a loss of where to tell you to go with it all. You could just dig lower and make a loading dock, that has its problems too. Rent the second floor out and move up there?
If i were him, I'd install it inside, and plumb and wire it into the building, with exhaust to the outside. Then it could always be ready to rock at a moment's notice, and not any more vulnerable to being stolen than all the rest of the expensive stuff in the shop.
Bro you must have gotten slammed this summer! I’m south shore but away from the bay, so we didn’t have any issues… but anywhere with hills got slammed. How ironic is it that we’ve barely had rain since then?
@ haha of course that happened! I just washed my car again. It’s so dry the dust on everything is craaaazy. By the way I’m like 8 minutes from Corey’s shop. If you’re ever out this way have him let me know, would love to say hi. Hopefully we can reschedule you for a club visit in the new year!
What part of the country is his shop located? I'm a mile high in Northeastern NM... we just got ~42" dump of snow this past Wednesday thru Friday... a ten year storm.
Great split screen action for the demo, pro stuff there. IIWMI'D increase gas tank size, that looks pretty small in run time, & I'd install a good size precast concrete pump tank in that driveway to increase run time but reduce cycling. I'd also think about a stand mount, elevating the pump to keep ground level storage accessible, don't know what the lift spec is (higher pump reduces flow due to increase lifting friction). Glad to see you gaining on this vexing problem
@@MakeEverything I agree and I'm glad you found a solution. After 15 years and much trenching and re-running of drainage, I think we fixed the problem. And then we moved. I still couldn't shake the anxiety. 15 years is a long time.
I made an adapter for my generator with a hose into the gas cap, replacing the vent. The hose draws fuel from 6 gallon outboard motor tank and works great. It basically increased the run time on my Honda EU2000 by almost tenfold.
Ouch. They're proud of those things. Priced at $5,005.00 from one source. That's nice insurance to keep you working, though. I hope your neighbor kicked in half the price for the water he's allowing onto your property. In most locales, neighbors can't flood you.
You need to update your info on pumps. If there is a petrol or diesel pump, there’s an electric equivalent. That pump is as basic as you can get when it comes to auto pumps, you’d be better off with something like a Godwin cd103.
What I saw was you had no where to pump the water because you were the bottom of the pool with nowhere to pump the water that didn't lead right back to you. The streets and yards and drains were leading to you. Where can you pump the excess water when all of your dry wells are full?
Why not get one of those aqua barriers that you can just fill with the water to ensure that your shop stays dry. Or you can get the kind of barriers that were used by that Tampa Bay Hospital installed to protect them from the ground floors from being completely flooded by the Storm Surges from Hurricane Helene and Hurricane Milton? Determine how high the water will get in that area, and then get the barriers you need that is double the maximum height that the flood waters may reach. But if that option is to expensive, then go about inspecting all around the building to find all possible points where water can make ingress into your shop. And then make the needed repairs or upgrades to those weak points.
@@1LEgGOdt the problem is my shop has 5, 8’ wide wooden doors, and the storms that flood the shop aren’t necessarily big predicted hurricanes. So the only way to use an aqua barrier would be to leave it installed for months at a time, and then I wouldn’t be able to actually get inside to work
To keep your shop from flooding...you're using something designed to keep things from flooding. Genius idea. Not sure why it took this long to figure it out.
It would only take one time for that to happen to me in my shop & after that I would move immediately who in their right mind would want to put up with that s***over and over??? Just move problem solved! Shops move all the time!
So cool - broke my heart every time you showed the flooding. I wanted to drive down and help somehow. Glad you have protection now!
Multiquip is some top equipment, their proces reflects that. Their older desiel genset are damn near bomb proof
It’s possible you would want to increase the fuel tank size on the pump, under heavy load the fuel would likely run out in 6-8 hours, if it pours all night overnight it could run out of fuel. I would entertain a second cover for the electronics also as the plan is to leave it out in hurricane rains
If I were him, I'd install the pump inside, and invest in an exhaust system to get it out.
Then he could permanently plumb this thing in, and with a battery floatcharger hooked to it, could have it ready to roll at a moment's notice.
Not only could the pump be taken out by weather as you mention, if this is running without him around, as designed, it might "walk away."
@@Nevir202 You want the water intake to be as short and direct as possible, it already struggled to prime with this short hose when he did a demonstration.
@@FrozenHaxor There are a lot of things you could do to mitigate that issue. Putting the thing inside, either of the shop or a purpose built enclosure is the only thing that is going to mitigate those other issues I mentioned.
@@Nevir202 Honestly I would start out by suing the neighbor, mf had a whole waterfall going off his property during the rain.
@@FrozenHaxor OK, maybe after half a million in legal fees and a decade in court, the judge will actually force him to do something about it.
What are you going to do in the meantime?
I haven't lived in a flood zone for a long while, but I'm adding this to my brain toolbox in case I need it in the future. Brainstorming ideas to make it even better:
1) If it does not have a built in 120 VAC wall charger, it might be worth the $10-20 to get a battery minder to ease the maintenance load on that 12 VDC battery.
2) For redundancy, instead of one big pump it may be better to have multiple smaller pumps and rig the floats at slightly different heights. So you have fault tolerance in case one fails, and phased startups to conserve fuel and give you more time to react in truly dire floods.
3) The family over at Tiny Shiny Home has rigged some awesome wifi or cellularly controlled electronics, I think Jonathan uses Victron components and they come out to $30-50 for an app controlled setup. They've rigged notifications if an error light goes off, you could probably do similar with the signal for the floats tripping. And they have also rigged human commanded remote start in line with the manual start button/switch like what you used on your pump.
That is a badass setup! Ive owned several mq trash pumps. Top of the line imo.
That is great insurance, Chris. Not a heft price for that level of protection. Happy to see you finally have a little peace of mind when a rainstorm hits.🙏
Don’t know if you’re gonna move your shop to your amazing property once you develop that land. Looks like higher ground and a lot more land!⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
thats the most awesome pump i have ever seen..
9:52 hello dear 🌹/ add a small solar panel and charger controller for the battery 😍!!! what do you think????
Sweet, Honda motor too. That should be rock solid with non ethanol fuel.
That thing is genius.
Great Job Chris , Great Presentation , Stay safe my friend
Yeah, flooding is a pain. My old man had his garage flood a couple times but then installed a massively overkill 70KVA generator from an old hospital and a bunch of pumps. Worth the investment.
Also means we can power the whole neighbourhood if need be.
Impressive, well done !
Having worked with pump systems for many years the weak point is the float switches. I presume it's the same in the US as the UK that mercury tilt switches are banned. Before that happened float switches were very reliable, now they all have a steel ball in a track which operates a switch and they are prone to sticking especially in a backup situation where they sit unused for long periods. One thing you could do is use two float switches in parallel in each position, as long as one works the pump will start. New ones annually might be advisable. Also some sort of remote camera system so that you can check it has started.
I got 3 electric basement pumps now all with a socket and a 20m cord. So if the power should go out I can just run those plugs upstairs and power them from a generator. Then I also bought a similar sized petrol pump like yours. I added wheels to mine and a little rack on top where I can hang all the pipes. So you can move the whole pump by yourself without anything draging. Also added a gas canister and a big water jug for priming.
Something to consider is those long plastic tubes one fills with water and acts like a flood barrier.
They are relatively inexpensive. I have seen those effectively protect a house from rising water.
I’m sure you have a battery maintainer, but how long will it go on standby mode with just the battery?
@@jeremyspecce I tested that actually and while on standby the battery lasted about 5 days before it was too low to crank the engine. With the solar maintainer I put on there that problem was eliminated for under $40!
The best thing you could do is increase the holding capacity of your underground system. There are several types of systems, ones that use large manifolds with pipe connecting to you "outlet" point. There is also a create systems (looks like milk creates) placed in a lined excavation and then filled in around it with clean stone. Talk to a civil engineer to figure out what would be best. I've been in excavation 27 years and have installed many different sized underground systems.
That neighbor flooding you looks like straight lawsuit to me, he cannot do that legally.
Do you keep a battery maintainer on the 12V battery? Would suck if the battery is dead when you need the pump.
@@nordishkiel5985 yes I do! I keep a solar battery trickle charger on it when I leave it on standby for long periods of time.
Thats a good invention
Is that system is rain proof.?
@@wolfy99 yes, it’s ideal for it to have some sort of shelter but it’ll survive outside in rain
1:33 can we talk about how when it rains your neighbors property turns into a water fall over the retaining wall?
So your sump pump moves the water to the street. But it's not clear to me where you are discharging water to, from the powerful gas-powered pump?
Good point! I wasn't clear in the video but when I have the gas powered pump set up and ready to go I have a hard piped 3" PVC line that also goes up to the street where the water can easily get into the municipal storm drain system. That system drains to the ocean about half a mile from my shop.
How big is the pit this will pull from? Obviously you want the dry basins to fill first but I would be worried that the sump pit isn't large enough and would lead to a bunch of short cycling. Perhaps putting the floats on the sump pit but the 3" suction line in the dry basin with access to a large volume of water to give the system some breathing room when at capacity.
I hope no one steals ot
Hey Chris. Sorry to see how much trouble it's causing you.
But, when you first got your shop I asked what about water and flooding.
Yeah, those sump pits can't handle deluge and flooding when it gets bad.
For your location, how many inches of rain per hour do you estimate the pump will be able to handle?
@@googacct the total lift of the pump from the suction port to the discharge port is less than 10’, so based on the chart/curve in the manual I should get about 300 - 325 gallons per minute. 18,000 gallons per hour conservatively. Based on the speed in which it emptied the 55 gallon pail I’d say that’s accurate
1" of rain on 3,000 sq ft would amount to 1,870 gallons of water. But the amount of water that flows in from the non-building area would be in addition to what comes off the building. If you estimated that there would be 2 - 3 times the amount of water coming in addition to off the roof - say another 4,000 to 6,000 gallons it would probably handle 2" of rain per hour and maybe 3" per hour.
If there is more or less water coming in besides off the roof that would change that calculation.
Not to knock the other denizens of Long Island, but that would disappear rather quickly where I live. Do you have proper security, a cage or even better gates to your driveway at your location? I am a firm believer in the adage of out of sight is out of mind with a nice piece of equipment like that, I would make a nice cover system that keeps it out of weather and eyesight but still allows easy access to service and maintain.
As far as flooding, your driveway is so low already but going lower allows more water to pool before flooding you out. you can go with a built up system, that stores water lower down, but that might limit the size of machines you can move around up top. Where you live, the freeze cycles might destroy a water pervious concrete that allows water storage until the pumps can finish, so I am really at a loss of where to tell you to go with it all. You could just dig lower and make a loading dock, that has its problems too. Rent the second floor out and move up there?
If i were him, I'd install it inside, and plumb and wire it into the building, with exhaust to the outside.
Then it could always be ready to rock at a moment's notice, and not any more vulnerable to being stolen than all the rest of the expensive stuff in the shop.
I deleted my post b/c you found the "Auto-Start" I was asking about - if it existed? Thanks man
Bro you must have gotten slammed this summer! I’m south shore but away from the bay, so we didn’t have any issues… but anywhere with hills got slammed. How ironic is it that we’ve barely had rain since then?
@@BenNawrath the WEEK I got this pump and did the new drywells it stopped raining. It’s insane. I swear I did this….
@ haha of course that happened! I just washed my car again. It’s so dry the dust on everything is craaaazy. By the way I’m like 8 minutes from Corey’s shop. If you’re ever out this way have him let me know, would love to say hi. Hopefully we can reschedule you for a club visit in the new year!
What part of the country is his shop located? I'm a mile high in Northeastern NM... we just got ~42" dump of snow this past Wednesday thru Friday... a ten year storm.
Great split screen action for the demo, pro stuff there. IIWMI'D increase gas tank size, that looks pretty small in run time, & I'd install a good size precast concrete pump tank in that driveway to increase run time but reduce cycling. I'd also think about a stand mount, elevating the pump to keep ground level storage accessible, don't know what the lift spec is (higher pump reduces flow due to increase lifting friction). Glad to see you gaining on this vexing problem
anchor the inlet and the entire line down. it will kick itself out of the water.
You must have some mold in your shop after all these floods, do you worry about that?
He’s gotten it dry quickly after floods with dehumidifiers, open doors, heaters, air movers, etc. There is no drywall in the area that gets wet.
I know the anxiety of checking weather and radar maps. Peace.
@@slownsteady100 it’s no way to live!
@@MakeEverything I agree and I'm glad you found a solution. After 15 years and much trenching and re-running of drainage, I think we fixed the problem. And then we moved. I still couldn't shake the anxiety. 15 years is a long time.
A battery maintainer/charger will help the battery's health and be ready for action.
A cool piece of gear, just needs a mod to T into an external fuel tank. No way you're running very long on that 1.4 gallon tank.
I made an adapter for my generator with a hose into the gas cap, replacing the vent. The hose draws fuel from 6 gallon outboard motor tank and works great. It basically increased the run time on my Honda EU2000 by almost tenfold.
Slick...
Ouch. They're proud of those things. Priced at $5,005.00 from one source. That's nice insurance to keep you working, though.
I hope your neighbor kicked in half the price for the water he's allowing onto your property. In most locales, neighbors can't flood you.
You need to update your info on pumps. If there is a petrol or diesel pump, there’s an electric equivalent. That pump is as basic as you can get when it comes to auto pumps, you’d be better off with something like a Godwin cd103.
What I saw was you had no where to pump the water because you were the bottom of the pool with nowhere to pump the water that didn't lead right back to you. The streets and yards and drains were leading to you. Where can you pump the excess water when all of your dry wells are full?
`propane conversion so you never have to rebuild the carb
How much $?
A quick Google search show $5k
@ Great video bro!
The neighbor dumping water on the drive is creating a public nuisance. Take them to court.
Why not get one of those aqua barriers that you can just fill with the water to ensure that your shop stays dry.
Or you can get the kind of barriers that were used by that Tampa Bay Hospital installed to protect them from the ground floors from being completely flooded by the Storm Surges from Hurricane Helene and Hurricane Milton?
Determine how high the water will get in that area, and then get the barriers you need that is double the maximum height that the flood waters may reach.
But if that option is to expensive, then go about inspecting all around the building to find all possible points where water can make ingress into your shop. And then make the needed repairs or upgrades to those weak points.
@@1LEgGOdt the problem is my shop has 5, 8’ wide wooden doors, and the storms that flood the shop aren’t necessarily big predicted hurricanes. So the only way to use an aqua barrier would be to leave it installed for months at a time, and then I wouldn’t be able to actually get inside to work
And then he waits a week or so for the water to dissipate.
👍👏
Could be cheaper to move 😊
ah the joys of easy 3phase power. this shit can be run on wall plug
400gpm 😭
To keep your shop from flooding...you're using something designed to keep things from flooding. Genius idea. Not sure why it took this long to figure it out.
It would only take one time for that to happen to me in my shop & after that I would move immediately who in their right mind would want to put up with that s***over and over??? Just move problem solved! Shops move all the time!