The union between the top link and the top of the implement is the FULCROM between the rear lift arms and the trail wheel. You explained this very well.
One more point to look at. Allow the implement to rest on the soil then adjust the top link. Some swing will occur depending on how high the three point is raising the piece. If accuracy is needed, as in using a box blade, this helps keep stuff where it needs to be. Some equipment does not need that much accuracy but its nice to know how to do the adjustments. Remind folks to NOT get between the tractor and the attachment while the engine is running. Turn off the tractor, set the brake, then adjust. I've seen plenty of farm accidents as and EMT that could have been avoided by following these steps and not cutting safety corners.
I think you described how the center link works correctly and I have to remember to make the changes when I put my tiller on the tractor. All new tractor owners have a problem connecting up implements and have to get assistance from others who know how to make those adjustments correctly. I am not a novice, but do need help at times and in my case the internet is my only source of help in using my tractor and accessories.
AWESOME! I had to purchase a replacement top link since I installed a Pat's quick attach system. I just got the longer top link today and was curious what to do with the small bar that came with the top link, now I see it is the adjustment tool (duh!). I'll put that tool in my tractor tool box. THANK YOU!
A couple observations. If you feather your implement so it's just touching the ground, your adjustable top link will turn much easier. Your not fighting the weight of the implement. A 3 point hitch has no down pressure, so technically it doesn't push, it's gravity. One should also make the adjustments with the implement close to operating position. If you notice the implement changes pitch as you raise and lower do to the arc affect.
Best upgrade I have ever done was adding a hydraulic top link. Can make length adjustments from the driver’s seat (great for box scrapers and also use it on a cement mixer to dump/raise the mixer) or let an attachment free-float (great for rotary brush cutter).
It will also be a benefit to "hard-face" or weld an additional skid plate to the factory skid plates to get a much longer life from them whether it's your tiller or your brush hog.Inspect them before each use.The metal in them is pretty soft and as the get dragged,they're s a lot of friction and wear.
Excellent video. It might be a bit obvious but the turnbuckle has a right hand thread at one end and a left hand thread at the other to facilitate lengthening or shortening.
I have a 62-64 Ford 4000 Industrial. There are 3 holes for the top link to attach to the tractor. How do you decide which hole to use?? I mainly use a box blade.
Just an opinion to consider. I would flip your top link end for end so that the little securing bolt/arm can be tightened down on top of the center. Second, rain will in time get inside and cause rusting and a freeze up on one or both ends. That is why it is good to keep both adjustment screws well greased. The securing bolt/arm will hold it from moving. Third if one does freeze up don't just extend one end as it will allow one to bend easier. Take the top link apart and get it back to working properly.
put the implement onto the ground if you're attempting to shorten the turnbuckle length... taking some weight off of the screw will make it easier to adjust. Conversely, if attempting to lengthen the turnbuckle, raising the implement may assist in easing the effort necessary to adjust.
Wow, this was great! I guess for many it was a "duh" video, but it was still really well explained, and the visuals added so much! Tremendously well done!
The top link is a turnbuckle. A coupling with female screw threads used to connect two rods, lengths of boat rigging, etc., lengthwise and to regulate their length or tensionbuckle.
You should do one for us first time owners on how to attach the bushhog correctly. at highest setting, its only a few inches high. the owners manual assumes i know all of this. good vid here, thanks!
Thanks for this video - the only explanation of toplink I found on UA-cam! Also the discussion here is very useful. The first comment from @John Colvin (can be found also here en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three-point_hitch) says: "the top link of three-point hitch prevents the tractor from flipping backwards on the drive wheels if the implement being dragged were to hit a rock or other immovable obstruction." See an example of tractor flipping while pulling too much weight: ua-cam.com/video/swj0dYdpioM/v-deo.html The toplink forces the tractor back to the ground, it "redirects the flipping force into downward force on the drive wheels" which increases the tractive force. See the wikipedia article linked above.
The angle you refer to is determined by how you set the height of the lift arms relative to the tailwheel. Less HP required and less blade wear is achieved with a slight forward tilt of the bush hog. Aft tilt will achieve more mulching at the expense of more blade wear over time. The top link adjustment will determine how well the bush hog negotiates going over uneven ground without scalping or lifting up as the front wheels go lower than the rear tractor wheels.
This adjustment makes a huge diff when using a box blade. You need lits of tilt if you are trying to cut into the ground and no tilt if you are simply trying to level an area.
+J&J Acres If a big adjustment is needed, I adjust until the top link is hard to turn then raise the lift arms and set the implement down again. The angle is reset. This way the weight of the implement is supported, perhaps I am just weak, but sometimes it is the only way to make the desired adjustment (I am old😉).
I have another related question that I've been unable to find an answer for. On the top link, what is that little teardrop shaped metal piece for? Mine just dangles. I see a couple of different shapes of these but yet to find it's purpose.
Paul Weatherby Noooooo, no grease. At all, sit the implement on the ground, that Will resolve that tensión problem, the grease. Will change the level that you Need to work with the implement.
Paul is correct - keep it well greased - in time water will get in and cause one or both ends to rust and freeze up - I believe that the locking bolt should also be on the top to keep some water out plus lock the center piece.
If you take a decent hammer and drive that handle that came with the toplink through the hole you are using to adjust it it will be captured and you dont have to worry about losing it.
using a five feet rake on my mitsubishi but the sand/soil keep leaving wave formations not dead flat but raked well. I have it set using top link to just sit an inch below tyres when in the down position, could i take off the top link or use a section of chain in place of threaded bar so it would still lift out the ground when needed.
So what happens when u have it set wrong and u put the implement down cockeyed like that u can end up bending or break the points where it connects the top link right? Especially if u put downward pressure and that top link is being pushed too hard because the implement isn't square to the ground. Am I correct?
My toplink has a a lock nut on one side that just won't turn, which means only one of the threaded sides move. The nut is really on there and I can't for the life of me get it off. Any suggestions?
Thanks for your explanation. That bolt-thingy is called a turnbuckle or a drag link, depending on who’s asking. So happens that today I was trying to get my friend’s tractor bush hog set and we couldn’t do it. When we lift the implement it touches the tires and that just can’t be good. I figured out what that link does and used it to pivot the implement away from the tires on the up position, but then it’s not level to the ground when it goes down. We gave up when it got dark and will go back to it next year. 😜 Now my question: On the tractor itself there are three mounting points for this turnbuckle, what difference would it make to use any of them? Thanks.
Always read your owners manuals for the equipment you have for proper way to use the equipment, If you don't have owners manuals for the equipment you have, get them or download them off line.
To improve this opportunity- With adjustment of tools- then a hydraulic top links is recommended. Makes the work much easier with adjustmentA very good alternative here is BYBERG AS in Norway, www.byberg.no Also produc telescopic cylinders, “Duplostag of Norway”.
Hi JJ. great video explaining the tilt arm. how about the adjustment arms left and right having a problem with getting my bush hog level out on the left side. when turning the adjustment arms to the right are you moving the arms up?. and turning right should be turning them down. any help would be appreciated.
The main propose of the top link of three-point hitch is to prevent the tractor from flipping backwards on the drive wheels if the implement being dragged were to hit a rock or other immovable obstruction.
Your explanation mentions the 3 point "pushing" an implement into the ground. FALSE. Gravity allows the implement to sink to, or in some cases, into the ground. The modern day three point systems are pressurized in a one way (UP) only hydraulic system.
Dislike because of improper use of that ur "double sided bolt". U used the wrong end of it. It has those pins to prevents it from dropping from its hole in top link arm and prevent that kind of improper use. Holes in it get ruined using it that. It should go trough both holes. English is not perfect, I'm from Finland, the homeland of Valtra tractors.
Four and a half minutes of info but because I didn't put the handle through the top link permanently it's a thumbs down. Yay! Thanks for visiting my channel!
The union between the top link and the top of the implement is the FULCROM between the rear lift arms and the trail wheel.
You explained this very well.
Searched many videos on this and finally now have a very good understanding of what it does. Great instructional video! Thank you so much.
One more point to look at. Allow the implement to rest on the soil then adjust the top link. Some swing will occur depending on how high the three point is raising the piece. If accuracy is needed, as in using a box blade, this helps keep stuff where it needs to be. Some equipment does not need that much accuracy but its nice to know how to do the adjustments. Remind folks to NOT get between the tractor and the attachment while the engine is running. Turn off the tractor, set the brake, then adjust.
I've seen plenty of farm accidents as and EMT that could have been avoided by following these steps and not cutting safety corners.
I think you described how the center link works correctly and I have to remember to make the changes when I put my tiller on the tractor. All new tractor owners have a problem connecting up implements and have to get assistance from others who know how to make those adjustments correctly. I am not a novice, but do need help at times and in my case the internet is my only source of help in using my tractor and accessories.
AWESOME! I had to purchase a replacement top link since I installed a Pat's quick attach system. I just got the longer top link today and was curious what to do with the small bar that came with the top link, now I see it is the adjustment tool (duh!). I'll put that tool in my tractor tool box. THANK YOU!
Just bought my first John Deere 1023e and it's the first time I've actually used to 3 point hitch your video is very informational thank you
Awesome, I'm glad it helped! Enjoy the tractor!
OMG. Hours later and this is the video I have been looking for!!!! Thank you ever so kindly!!!
EXCELLENT EXPLANATION!
AMAZINGLY PUT.
IMPRESSED WITH YOUR TEACHING.
WELL DONE.
THANK YOU!
I am so glad I found this!! Late to the party but this was very helpful for me. Now to see how that impacts my brush hog performance.
Glad it was helpful!
A couple observations.
If you feather your implement so it's just touching the ground, your adjustable top link will turn much easier. Your not fighting the weight of the implement.
A 3 point hitch has no down pressure, so technically it doesn't push, it's gravity.
One should also make the adjustments with the implement close to operating position. If you notice the implement changes pitch as you raise and lower do to the arc affect.
Double Dog Farm ....all good points but some tractors do have 3 point linkages with down pressure.
Came to this video just for that question and you even showcased the implement I am using. Thanks.................
Happy it all worked out so well for you :-D Thanks for watching!
Just got my first tractor and implements. This was a big help. Thanks for taking the time to make this and explain it.
Thank you for letting me know that the video helped!
Thank you for this video. I had my rotary cutter adjusted improperly and this helped me fix it!
I have the same issue, going to correct it immediately.
Best upgrade I have ever done was adding a hydraulic top link. Can make length adjustments from the driver’s seat (great for box scrapers and also use it on a cement mixer to dump/raise the mixer) or let an attachment free-float (great for rotary brush cutter).
It's a shame that I don't have another hydraulic port - not sure it's worth it to me to invest in one.
It will also be a benefit to "hard-face" or weld an additional skid plate to the factory skid plates to get a much longer life from them whether it's your tiller or your brush hog.Inspect them before each use.The metal in them is pretty soft and as the get dragged,they're s a lot of friction and wear.
DesertDigger1 Would you not lose depth, by doing so?
Excellent video. It might be a bit obvious but the turnbuckle has a right hand thread at one end and a left hand thread at the other to facilitate lengthening or shortening.
Thanks for making sure everybody was aware!
I have a 62-64 Ford 4000 Industrial. There are 3 holes for the top link to attach to the tractor. How do you decide which hole to use?? I mainly use a box blade.
The top link is also used for draught control of ground engageing implements. Plough subsoilers etc
Thanks for taking the time to explain all that in such detail.... Much appreciated.
Thank you for watching!
Great explanation. As a new tractor owner this info will be put to good use (hopefully today)!
Happy to hear it was of some value!
Outstanding! They just dropped off my new Kubota, and it's not set for my bush-hog. Now I know what to do.
I'm happy it helped! Thanks for watching :-D
Just an opinion to consider.
I would flip your top link end for end so that the little securing bolt/arm can be tightened down on top of the center.
Second, rain will in time get inside and cause rusting and a freeze up on one or both ends.
That is why it is good to keep both adjustment screws well greased. The securing bolt/arm will hold it from moving.
Third if one does freeze up don't just extend one end as it will allow one to bend easier. Take the top link apart and get it back to working properly.
All excellent points and tips, thank you for sharing!
great video, But could you tell me which hole on the tractor does the top link go. I have three holes. Thanks
The hole that best levels your implements
put the implement onto the ground if you're attempting to shorten the turnbuckle length... taking some weight off of the screw will make it easier to adjust. Conversely, if attempting to lengthen the turnbuckle, raising the implement may assist in easing the effort necessary to adjust.
Wow, this was great! I guess for many it was a "duh" video, but it was still really well explained, and the visuals added so much! Tremendously well done!
The top link is a turnbuckle. A coupling with female screw threads used to connect two rods, lengths of boat rigging, etc., lengthwise and to regulate their length or tensionbuckle.
Thanks for the explanation and demo.
A very clear explanation.
Buddy. This is an amazing video. (3 day owner trying to figure out a box blade.)
turnbuckle is the wording you were looking for
*THANK YOU!!!*
I'm sure Cathy wouldn't know what a turnbuckle is.
You should do one for us first time owners on how to attach the bushhog correctly. at highest setting, its only a few inches high. the owners manual assumes i know all of this. good vid here, thanks!
From my experience the answer is EVERYBODY hates hooking up equipment to their PTO ;-)
Great explanation! I didn't know how important this was! Very helpful
thanks for the video
I'm glad it was helpful :-) Thanks for watching!
Thanks for this video - the only explanation of toplink I found on UA-cam! Also the discussion here is very useful. The first comment from
@John Colvin (can be found also here en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three-point_hitch) says: "the top link of three-point hitch prevents the tractor from flipping backwards on the drive wheels if the implement being dragged were to hit a rock or other immovable obstruction."
See an example of tractor flipping while pulling too much weight: ua-cam.com/video/swj0dYdpioM/v-deo.html
The toplink forces the tractor back to the ground, it "redirects the flipping force into downward force on the drive wheels" which increases the tractive force. See the wikipedia article linked above.
When adjusting for a brush hog can you tell me what the cutting angle should be for the brush hog blade? Level or little upward in back? Thanks.
The angle you refer to is determined by how you set the height of the lift arms relative to the tailwheel. Less HP required and less blade wear is achieved with a slight forward tilt of the bush hog. Aft tilt will achieve more mulching at the expense of more blade wear over time. The top link adjustment will determine how well the bush hog negotiates going over uneven ground without scalping or lifting up as the front wheels go lower than the rear tractor wheels.
This adjustment makes a huge diff when using a box blade. You need lits of tilt if you are trying to cut into the ground and no tilt if you are simply trying to level an area.
Way to go Cathy!
thanks for the video. it is much easier to adjust if the implement is on the ground😉
Don't you find that the ground is in the way of letting it turn?
+J&J Acres If a big adjustment is needed, I adjust until the top link is hard to turn then raise the lift arms and set the implement down again. The angle is reset. This way the weight of the implement is supported, perhaps I am just weak, but sometimes it is the only way to make the desired adjustment (I am old😉).
pfs896 Ah, that makes more sense to me now, thanks!
I have another related question that I've been unable to find an answer for. On the top link, what is that little teardrop shaped metal piece for? Mine just dangles. I see a couple of different shapes of these but yet to find it's purpose.
Once you get the top link to the proper length it's used as a locking nut
It's good to keep it well greased, too. There can be a lot of tension when turning it.
Paul Weatherby Noooooo, no grease. At all, sit the implement on the ground, that Will resolve that tensión problem, the grease. Will change the level that you Need to work with the implement.
Paul is correct - keep it well greased - in time water will get in and cause one or both ends to rust and freeze up - I believe that the locking bolt should also be on the top to keep some water out plus lock the center piece.
If you take a decent hammer and drive that handle that came with the toplink through the hole you are using to adjust it it will be captured and you dont have to worry about losing it.
Thank you. I was wondering if I was "supposed to" do that - didn't seem like there was any other way but didn't want to ruin something.
+J&J Acres no problem thanks for sharing your videos.
using a five feet rake on my mitsubishi but the sand/soil keep leaving wave formations not dead flat but raked well. I have it set using top link to just sit an inch below tyres when in the down position, could i take off the top link or use a section of chain in place of threaded bar so it would still lift out the ground when needed.
So what happens when u have it set wrong and u put the implement down cockeyed like that u can end up bending or break the points where it connects the top link right? Especially if u put downward pressure and that top link is being pushed too hard because the implement isn't square to the ground. Am I correct?
Excellent, excellent instructional video.
Thank you so much!
that answered my question thanks!!
great information.. thanks
That’s what I was looking for, thanks!
Great video... thank you!
My pleasure!
Wow! Soooo, Yeahhhhh. You made this video so complicated. Not necessary. As a farmer I know this video should’ve been short sweet and simple
Not everyone is a farmer so maybe it benefited people other than know it all's.
that pin belongs in the top link, you are using it wrong. you have to drive that pin through both holes just like a bench vise
Yup, I know, but thank you anyway :-D
Thank you!
My toplink has a a lock nut on one side that just won't turn, which means only one of the threaded sides move. The nut is really on there and I can't for the life of me get it off. Any suggestions?
It's used to level whatever implement you have attached to the tractor 3 point hitch
Good explanation.
Thanks!
Thanks for your explanation. That bolt-thingy is called a turnbuckle or a drag link, depending on who’s asking.
So happens that today I was trying to get my friend’s tractor bush hog set and we couldn’t do it. When we lift the implement it touches the tires and that just can’t be good. I figured out what that link does and used it to pivot the implement away from the tires on the up position, but then it’s not level to the ground when it goes down. We gave up when it got dark and will go back to it next year. 😜
Now my question:
On the tractor itself there are three mounting points for this turnbuckle, what difference would it make to use any of them?
Thanks.
Thanks for helping me with that to as I'm a new tractor owner 👍
Happy to hear it!
If you set the implement down you can turn the buckle by hand. It’s much faster and easier.
well done keep up the good work
Excellent explanation. Thanks for the visuals.
Thank you so much for the explanation! It was well said. Or well explained.
Great explanation. Thanks
Thank you!
I got tired fighting the Top Link, so I made it Electric, and if ever stops working I’ve got the manual bar mounted on the tractor.
Great explanation, and a really nice tractor. Thanks for the video. Kim
We call that a turnbuckle or a threaded binder
Great explanation, thanks!
well explained thank you.
You are very welcome.
I'm having a real hard time hooking my King Kutter bush hog up to manasse Ferguson sub compact tractor
Very well explained mate! thank you very much...:)
You are welcome very much!
Thanks for the explanation!
You're very welcome, thanks for watching!
good info, thanks!
Always read your owners manuals for the equipment you have for proper way to use the equipment, If you don't have owners manuals for the equipment you have, get them or download them off line.
This is great
A "Turnbuckle" is what the top link is.
Excellent!! Now, that makes sense! :D
Its called a "Bottle Screw"
To improve this opportunity- With adjustment of tools- then a hydraulic top links is recommended.
Makes the work much easier with adjustmentA very good alternative here is BYBERG AS in Norway, www.byberg.no
Also produc telescopic cylinders, “Duplostag of Norway”.
Top link turn buckle .
Nice video
Thank you!
Hi JJ. great video explaining the tilt arm. how about the adjustment arms left and right having a problem with getting my bush hog level out on the left side. when turning the adjustment arms to the right are you moving the arms up?. and turning right should be turning them down. any help would be appreciated.
The main propose of the top link of three-point hitch is to prevent the tractor from flipping backwards on the drive wheels if the implement being dragged were to hit a rock or other immovable obstruction.
A Top Link is a Turnbuckle.
Your explanation mentions the 3 point "pushing" an implement into the ground. FALSE. Gravity allows the implement to sink to, or in some cases, into the ground. The modern day three point systems are pressurized in a one way (UP) only hydraulic system.
It’s really a turnbuckle
How could you explain that without ever saying the length of the bar is being changed; the whole point of the bar's adjustment threads and nuts.
Never take tractor advice from a man wearing sandals
Kidding 😂
Mine bent.
Is that top link in the top hole on the tractor? It should be in the bottom hole for all ground engaging implements.
I'm not like some viewers on your channel that think they know every darn thing
Save yourself some time from his useless introduction and just go to 1:55 to get to the actual answer.
Dislike because of improper use of that ur "double sided bolt". U used the wrong end of it. It has those pins to prevents it from dropping from its hole in top link arm and prevent that kind of improper use. Holes in it get ruined using it that. It should go trough both holes.
English is not perfect, I'm from Finland, the homeland of Valtra tractors.
Four and a half minutes of info but because I didn't put the handle through the top link permanently it's a thumbs down. Yay! Thanks for visiting my channel!