Check the back bolts on the intake / exhaust manifold for the squeal. Thought it was a pulley at first. Turned out to be loose bolts on back side of motor on exhaust / intake manifold on my LJ. Tightened it up and it went away.
It’s long been thought as an upgrade for ZJ’s and WJ’s to get rid of those CV style axles and put the u-joint style in. The binding at full lock for us old timers is just the norm. Kit not being about to fast forward thru commercials in the pre DVR days. Unless someone shows me data that shows me that CV style joints are stronger, I’ll stay with u-joints. If standard cv nights were stronger than usual-joints I think rock crawlers would’ve switched long ago. RCV was able to reinvent the CV joint and strengthen it. Just playing devil’s advocate here. Not trying to be a Debbie downer. 😂
Only one way to find out I suppose. It mostly for me came down to ease and money $110 for shafts/joints with a “lifetime warranty” vs $100 for new u-joints and time to swap them or $500 for new shafts with u-joints. Everything I’ve read says u-joints are really only stronger in a straight line. I’ve figured cv are less serviceable/difficult to maintain so not as popular for crawlers. For cost and ease it’s worth a shot for me. This video from @dexjs convinced me to give it a try. ua-cam.com/video/MmhbdFnUEIE/v-deo.htmlsi=uCgfnR1aMD_ktII3
CV joints are definitely stronger than a comparable U-joint. Think about it... More points of contact (6, usually), and they *always* share the load pretty equally. Whereas with a U-joint, only two points of contact, and when angled, one bears much more of the load than the other, plus they don't rotate at a constant speed any time other than when perfectly straight (which is why you have to match angles at either end of a driveshaft, and have both joints in phase, lest you suffer drive line vibes), which means they see a pulsating load. I mean why else would the heavier and potentially V8-powered ZJ or WJ have them when a much lighter TJ or XJ with a less powerful engine has U-joints? The reason rock crawlers use them, is because U-joints are all that is available for the higher-rated heavy duty axles like Dana 60 and up. The Birfield and Rzeppa style CV joints don't scale well, as to be made of thick enough metal to withstand 1-ton and up applications, they would be too heavy and expensive to be practical. Basically, axle shaft U-joints are available in higher rated axles, but within a given application where there is a choice between CVs and U-joints, the CV will be stronger. You can't take a U-joint meant for a Dana 60 and stick it in a Dana 30; it simply won't fit.
@4WDriver Going off what Dex and his brother were talking about, they did a full video about this concerning the Dana 30. They were explaining which version was most likely to break in certain situations. They race them and beat them badly so I'll trust their personal opinions. You also tried saying I was wrong but just repeated what I said then started talking about axles that are irrelevant to the subject. Btw they make RCVs for 1 ton Dana 60s so did you not know that? This conversation is becoming confusing because your second paragraph went in all different directions. Also more points of contact doesn't always make something stronger because of it.
I had a friend who switched his XJ to CV's. The CV's broke more often than u joints, but like they say, it doesn't break anything else, and you can drive home from the trail. I broke a lot of dana 30 axles before I learned to tack weld the u joint caps in place. If you're u joints are binding at full lock , adjust the limit bolts or weld a nut on the knuckle to limit the travel. It's not rocket science.
While diagnosing a front vs rear driveline vibration issue, i removed my rear driveline and drove my XJ from the front axle. The cardan hop was unbearable at just a few degrees off steering center. The boots tear and the cage on CV's can break.
I thought about doing the replacement in my yj. Only big issue is i wouldn't be able to disagauge my front axle . Cause of the short axle side has the disconnect built in. Im not sure of a reasonable cost effective way to put locking hubs on it ????
I don’t think this works on the early model Dana 30. As for cheap selectable hubs I haven’t found a “cheap” option. I did find an axle locally a few months back though with them for like $400 but I don’t see that often.
I alway thought it was funny...people "upgrade" shafts from ujoint to rcv...and "upgrade" drive shafts from cv to ujoints! Are we just "upgrading" to say we did?
I mostly did this because it was the most cost/time effective way to replace the joints. But the angles a driveshaft operate make a u-joint stronger vs the angles for steering argue to make a cv joint stronger. I try to only “upgrade” once something actually breaks or already needs replaced.
Think of which can see a greater angle. Also on a drive shaft, it's not a true CV, it's a double cardan. But I see the irony. Park in the driveway and drive on the parkway...
@@ifixit775 i don’t know much about jeeps after 2000 but I think the newer jeeps do use a CV style driveshaft and people often change them over to a u joint style.
Not a rzeppa at all. CV has 6 balls, rz has 3 bearings in a Y configuration. Rz is not good at high angles. Toyota fwd have CV on the outer, rz on the inner.
Check the back bolts on the intake / exhaust manifold for the squeal. Thought it was a pulley at first. Turned out to be loose bolts on back side of motor on exhaust / intake manifold on my LJ. Tightened it up and it went away.
I’ll have to give that a check. Thanks!
It’s long been thought as an upgrade for ZJ’s and WJ’s to get rid of those CV style axles and put the u-joint style in. The binding at full lock for us old timers is just the norm. Kit not being about to fast forward thru commercials in the pre DVR days. Unless someone shows me data that shows me that CV style joints are stronger, I’ll stay with u-joints. If standard cv nights were stronger than usual-joints I think rock crawlers would’ve switched long ago. RCV was able to reinvent the CV joint and strengthen it. Just playing devil’s advocate here. Not trying to be a Debbie downer. 😂
Only one way to find out I suppose. It mostly for me came down to ease and money $110 for shafts/joints with a “lifetime warranty” vs $100 for new u-joints and time to swap them or $500 for new shafts with u-joints. Everything I’ve read says u-joints are really only stronger in a straight line. I’ve figured cv are less serviceable/difficult to maintain so not as popular for crawlers. For cost and ease it’s worth a shot for me. This video from @dexjs convinced me to give it a try. ua-cam.com/video/MmhbdFnUEIE/v-deo.htmlsi=uCgfnR1aMD_ktII3
U-Joints are stronger when the wheel is half way to lock to obviously straight and CVs are stronger in a tight turn.
CV joints are definitely stronger than a comparable U-joint. Think about it... More points of contact (6, usually), and they *always* share the load pretty equally. Whereas with a U-joint, only two points of contact, and when angled, one bears much more of the load than the other, plus they don't rotate at a constant speed any time other than when perfectly straight (which is why you have to match angles at either end of a driveshaft, and have both joints in phase, lest you suffer drive line vibes), which means they see a pulsating load. I mean why else would the heavier and potentially V8-powered ZJ or WJ have them when a much lighter TJ or XJ with a less powerful engine has U-joints? The reason rock crawlers use them, is because U-joints are all that is available for the higher-rated heavy duty axles like Dana 60 and up. The Birfield and Rzeppa style CV joints don't scale well, as to be made of thick enough metal to withstand 1-ton and up applications, they would be too heavy and expensive to be practical.
Basically, axle shaft U-joints are available in higher rated axles, but within a given application where there is a choice between CVs and U-joints, the CV will be stronger. You can't take a U-joint meant for a Dana 60 and stick it in a Dana 30; it simply won't fit.
@4WDriver Going off what Dex and his brother were talking about, they did a full video about this concerning the Dana 30. They were explaining which version was most likely to break in certain situations. They race them and beat them badly so I'll trust their personal opinions.
You also tried saying I was wrong but just repeated what I said then started talking about axles that are irrelevant to the subject. Btw they make RCVs for 1 ton Dana 60s so did you not know that?
This conversation is becoming confusing because your second paragraph went in all different directions. Also more points of contact doesn't always make something stronger because of it.
I had a friend who switched his XJ to CV's. The CV's broke more often than u joints, but like they say, it doesn't break anything else, and you can drive home from the trail. I broke a lot of dana 30 axles before I learned to tack weld the u joint caps in place. If you're u joints are binding at full lock , adjust the limit bolts or weld a nut on the knuckle to limit the travel. It's not rocket science.
While diagnosing a front vs rear driveline vibration issue, i removed my rear driveline and drove my XJ from the front axle. The cardan hop was unbearable at just a few degrees off steering center. The boots tear and the cage on CV's can break.
That’s interesting mine was happening even in 2wd. Time will tell if this was a good idea or not. But for now the price was right.
That squeal/hum sound like a bad water pump bearing or other pulley bearing
That’s what I’m figuring also. Just wanted someone else to confirm haha. I replaced the tensioner pulley and new belt. So thinking water pump is next.
I thought about doing the replacement in my yj. Only big issue is i wouldn't be able to disagauge my front axle . Cause of the short axle side has the disconnect built in. Im not sure of a reasonable cost effective way to put locking hubs on it ????
I don’t think this works on the early model Dana 30. As for cheap selectable hubs I haven’t found a “cheap” option. I did find an axle locally a few months back though with them for like $400 but I don’t see that often.
The long side had the axle disconnect and no there is no cheap way to do a selectable hub
I alway thought it was funny...people "upgrade" shafts from ujoint to rcv...and "upgrade" drive shafts from cv to ujoints! Are we just "upgrading" to say we did?
I mostly did this because it was the most cost/time effective way to replace the joints. But the angles a driveshaft operate make a u-joint stronger vs the angles for steering argue to make a cv joint stronger. I try to only “upgrade” once something actually breaks or already needs replaced.
Keep thinking it's funny and not understanding basic shit haha
Think of which can see a greater angle. Also on a drive shaft, it's not a true CV, it's a double cardan. But I see the irony. Park in the driveway and drive on the parkway...
@@ifixit775 i don’t know much about jeeps after 2000 but I think the newer jeeps do use a CV style driveshaft and people often change them over to a u joint style.
is the RCV joint itself similar to Rzeppa joint or double Cardigan?
Similar to a rzeppa if not the same thing. Not like a double cardigan there is no u joint to be had.
Cardan, not a sweater.
@@justplain8793 😂 tomatoes potatoes. I didn’t even catch that in the question.
Not a rzeppa at all. CV has 6 balls, rz has 3 bearings in a Y configuration. Rz is not good at high angles. Toyota fwd have CV on the outer, rz on the inner.
@@ifixit775 appreciate.