Mike, So many good tips in one video. Your many years of practical experience are an invaluable resource. The masses are anxiously waiting for electronics class, lesson one !
THanks a Million! Just purchased a Uniden Washington base unit at a community wide yard sale. Fellow who had it swore it worked last time he used it, however the dust patterns showed that it had been in the garage for awhile as I could have written my name on the top. So in that condition I talked him down to a 20 dollar bill and brought home my new toy. RIght now I am living in our Class A motor home in Arizona, trying to avoid the cold and snow in South Dakota. Since the unit you are doing on this video is very much like the Washington, I followed your lead and cleaned her out. Didn't do a cap replacement because I don't have access to any caps right now, the inside was actually much cleaner then the case, I had cleaned the case with a damp rag before undoing all the screws which were indeed all present and accounted for. There was a light coat of dust over the entire inside, and she looked to be untouched since day one, in fact all the screws gave that factory fresh snap when I unscrewed them. After the cleaning, I power he up, and can get static all over the bands, she does seem to key up (after hooking her up to a magnamount CB antenna by Radio Shack (another classic!) I could not beg a contact despite the fact I can see Interstate 40 from my door, and all I get is static. I will try to get a better antenna for her and the meter light is burned out, however the meter seems to be in great order. The fellow I got her from said he used it for dispatch for the community watch for all of it's life but had just received a better unit as a gift from his wife last year so decided to part with this set. Getting to my question - I would like to replace that bulb with an LED but I don't know the voltage that is running the lamp? I have some LED's along and some resistors so I could easily do the work if I knew the voltage. I am just to lazy I guess to dig out my meter and put that across the leads, and they are buried so well on the underside of the board. Perhaps I will just pull the bottom off, that is the ony part of the check I failed to do, then dig out my meter and find out for myself.
+Jerry Ericsson Most radios run the illumination lighting off of the 13.8 volt rail. For a white LED a 820 ohm resistor usually works well. Really depends on the specs of the LED.
Jerry Ericsson You should get antenna matcher it would help swr problems tune your swr lower maybe thats why can't hear you on the Interstate you should get tram cat twin antenna that help your motor home they alot better magnamount antenna you can't get very much ranger tram cat antenna they look like coil type antennas that goes on trucker drivers.
Most all of what you cover here applies to any piece of used electronics. Thanks for sharing, your matter of fact presentation is a great teaching style. Sadly, in most venues where one would buy a used radio someone has already plugged it in before someone can get their hands on it with a wiser approach. Thanks for taking the time (and expen$e) to share your knowledge Mike!
Mike Love your videos you are very smart and intelligent In Electronics,I’m an old CB repairman myself Now I’m a ham operator good video God bless Tennessee.
Rule of thumb as I was taught is NEVER use anything larger than a 5 amp fuse, even if you’re running an “internal” amplifier and a beefed up radio it’ll never draw more than 5 if it’s working properly, and if you blow a fuse take it to a radio shop
Hello, I'm attempting to repair, a Nash and Harrison [?] nixie tube multimeter. It looks great, really clean [outside and inside]. But I'm a complete NOOB in electronics, tho I have been trying to learn more about it. And I just wanted to thank you, because your videos are full of useful instructions as to how to approach, a diagnostic and/or repair of vintage electronic equipment. You speak clearly and at a normal pace [seems to me like, most other electronic "tutorial" vids, are made by caffeine-fuelled "experts" showing off, for other experts - why make an instructional video, for others in your field? I wonder] and I truly appreciate it. Just wanted you to know, also, I've now subscribed to your channel. Thank you kindly and be safe.
LOL, that reminds me of a chap that wanted to flog a 2 meter rig. He too claimed that it was a 'good lill' goer' as the expression goes....only ...when he lifted it up to show me... the water pissed out of the vent holes..... Maybe not the best buy ever ! Paddy
Great video! Also, when I look at a radio, I often times will look at the condition of the plated chassis on the back & condition of the screws and connectors. If heavily oxidized or rusted, I'll usually pass (the insides/electronics could be even worse!). However, you've also educated me to understand/accept that (for example) a smoker's radio (from the 70's-80's) is pretty common because of people's lifestyles back then. So, if the radio is otherwise clean... then, it's definitely worthwhile if it's a rare or unusual radio. BTW - I recently picked up a pretty clean Pearce Simpson Bearcat 23B. It was a smoker's radio, but it also had the owner's SS # engraved on bottom and back. Again, that was a sign of the times' because back then CB's were expensive (especially a nice base station or higher end mobile rig) and high-theft items. So, taking that into account, and the fact that it's not normally noticeable, it doesn't bother me. Maybe it adds a different kind of petina to the radio?? lol PS: The FCC sticker with owner's name, address and FCC CB callsign are also on the radio. Again... "more petina". :)
Acohol/ Freon ,I wish I could still find it it was use to clean video head evaporates fast ,and resistors that get not I like metal film maybe the next size,up But I play with tube radios .but your videos still help a lot.
I had an old Denon amplifier that had all Denon branded audio capacitors. I didn't think they made capacitors, but they were probably made with their name on them by Panasonic, Nichicon or Elna.
I have a question about what type of vacuum cleaner to use to get rid of the dust. We have a hoover upright with a detachable hose that we got at a yard sale and the center brush on the bottom doesn't work. We also have a shop vac with a hose but it doesn't have a crevice tool. It came with one but 10 years ago we moved and we lost it. Well its not lost its some where in the garage or the basement. Now if we can find the crevice tool should we use the hoover to help clean off the dust if it will fit? Does any one know if the tools are interchangeable from a shop vac not sure the model but its red and has a descent sized can but we had to throw away the filter so that might affect how much dust it could get off the circuit board. I'm not sure how many gallons it hold but we used it to clean out the basement and only had to dump out the dirt once. The basement is not that big but we haven't cleaned it in probably three years since one time it flooded. We didn't use the shop vac to suck out the water though. For that we rented a pump. Back to the hoover the brush on the bottom doesn't spin and I thought it was the belt but when I took it apart I couldn't find the belt. So I looked up the model on the internet but couldn't connect because comcast still hadn't switched us from verizon yet. We called comcast and they said the third party verification failed. So I went to redo it but it turns out the bill was in my wifes name and they had to talk to her. That would have been fine but she was at work. So we tried to call her at work but when we did the conference call we got her voice mail. So when I was on hold I realized the hoover doesn't have a belt. So I tried to plug it in and test it when it was upside down but I couldn't reach the power switch. Once I got the vacuum upright I realized I might need a volt meter. We used to have one in our basement before we moved. But alot of things got mixed up when we condensed the things from the attic in our old house. So after I found it I tried to see if the lower motor was getting voltage. But it wasn't . Or should I just use a can of dust off?
The steps you make are very well explained. For people new to (cb or hamradio) repair this is very usefull. Please complete the next steps with this transceiver. I am looking forward to your electronic course. Maybe an idea is to explain the basics and translate that to a actual radio circuit. You get the idea. Thanks Mike for sharing your experience en knowledge. See you next time.
Well, I finally had to subscribe to your channel 'cause I watch so many of yer videos. I need to see a few of you working on guitar amps 'cause I play a guitar, an Ibanez. I use a solid state Crate amp 150 watts. I have an old isolation transformer with 3 different 2 prong sockets at voltages from 105, 110 and 120. I took one side of the bell off and mounted an on off toggle switch for its line cord. Guess if I had to use it for a 3 prong power cord I'd have to use an adapter. Can I do this safely? I have my wife's parents' CB single sideband radios that were bought brand new. As soon as I can find them and the D-104 in the storage shed I'm gonna take it apart and check it out. I may need to replace all the caps since it is from the mid 70's.
Great video. Would you (or anyone else reading this) happen to know how to get rid of that annoying popping sound every time the channel is changed on these types of CB radios? I have a President P400 (same as the Uniden Washington) that does this, just like the Madison, and the Cobra 142 GTL. It's not a problem contact cleaner can fix, as cleaner has been applied in the past. Thanks for your help.
Oh, wow, thank you. I've asked people in the past, but nobody seems to know. They do say stuff like "It can be done", but that is it, lol. Thanks again.
Well, I opened up the radio, but there is a blank spot where R197 should be. Perhaps my particular PCB omitted it for some reason. Thanks for your help, regardless.
To get the maximum transfer of heat from a transistor to a heat sink use the thinnest layer of white thermal compound you can manage. A layer so thin you can barely see it is best. I tested this with expensive computer processors in the 90's and it's true. Metal to metal is best. The next best is a microscopic layer of heat compound. Look for Arctic Silver on eBay. Heat pads suck. They insulate almost as much as they transfer.
this is not correct. If you place a CPU bare die, or even one with a heat spreader " metal to metal " you will no longer have a processor. If you mount a transistor to a heat-sink that has a common collector and do not use an insulator between bare metal and the transistor body; you will no longer have a transistor
Nope. Have you done the test for yourself? I know what common knowledge says. I hear it myself. But have you done the tests for yourself? I have. The very least heat compound you can manage, an almost transparent layer, works best and transfers the most heat. Only bare metal to metal transfers more heat but then you get microscopic air gaps because the metal parts aren't 100% flat. A THIN layer of heat compound fills those air gaps and adds to the transfer. A thick layer of paste becomes an insulator and that you do not want!
I have three different Madisons, President and Uniden. Which one would be the best to keep, the older ones or the newer ones? I want to send one to you for a check up, however I don't know the history of theses radios.
Great tips Mike, thank you. The conductive glue that should be removed is it replace with something else or not replaced at all. Thanks for sharing your wisdom with us. Joel
+In Joel's Garage In base stations I don't replace it with anything. In mobile radios that are subjected to a lot of vibration I use hot glue. Nice thing about hot glue is its easy to remove later. Just add a drop or two of isopropyl alcohol, let it set for a few seconds and it pops right off. It doesn't melt the glue, it just breaks it's bond somehow.
Hey Mike, how would one get in contact with you? I have a Uniden Washington my mom and dad bought me for Christmas many moons ago and its been through its share of hack cb golden screwdrivers over the years. I'd love to have it restored! Thanks!
I have a 2527 Galaxy it has sit for a while someone told me that the capacitors go out when they sit without being used. Purchased a antron 99 and all I get is static need your opinion sir thank you very much love your videos.
Hi Mike, Great advice on buying a unknown radio. I have a question to ask you, I have been working on a President P300 SSB mobile radio. It came to my shop not working and after a clean and realignment the radio worked fine for 4 weeks then stopped working. Turning the radio off for 30 minutes it would work for 5 minutes and stop Transmitting again. The radio has no TX audio on both AM and SSB. (Note: Dead carrier on AM, nothing on SSB) The radio has the Uniden PC-833AF board. The radio receives and has PA audio but nothing getting to the transmit. I have recapped the whole radio and still no audio on TX. Do you have any ideas where i might look? Thanks Mike.
Unfortunately I did not know that or about you when I ordered I my caps. LOL 70% of them are audio grade Nichicon from Mouser. Once I found out about you and started watching your video's I stopped that. LOL
thanks for the excellent instructions. I was aware of the aging problem of electrolytic capacitors but I am wary of replacing them and then finding it has affected the alignment negatively, I have an old 23 channel cb, if I am not capable of aligning the radio after electrolytic capacitor replacement am I better off leaving the old caps in?
Hey, Mike. Thank you for the tutorial! What type of heat transfer paste do you recommend? I have some for CPUs, but I would assume that there are particular types... Thank you. 73 de KF4LBG Larry (Saltshaker) North Florida
Whoever cool bro I think it's a 148 model you fix it I know it works need to put a new mic connector on and I don't know what else it doesn't do SWR meters at working and can't calibrate it but I know it transmits
I love this type of video, can you talk about the min equipment needed to get into servicing cb's And can we buy used or should we buy used? EBay? Can we service the test equipment? Or should it be professionally aligned or calibrated
Depends on your technical ability, alignment of test equipment requires SOME TEST equipment, if you can afford a piece of gear that has recent calibration certs, do that. Starter Kit: 8 Digit frequency counter. Audio signal gen. RF Signal gen capable of 1 KHz audio signal at 30% modulation. Sinad meter. @ LEAST 60 MHz bandwidth Oscilloscope. RF sampler. (make one) SDR (poor mans band-view scope, prefer a spectrum analyzer though) 73
Your videos are good. You seem to be. A very very good tech. What do you charge to look at and fix. A radio. And do you do the basic swing mod. Cause that's all I need. But the right way. No clipped limiter.
I don't do "swing" mods. All they do is increase adjacent channel splatter and increase harmonic emissions. End result is it distorts the transmitted audio and actually lowers power on channel.
Should the line to line and line to chassis caps be replaced? Especially if they're not X or Y, respectively, rated. I personally would, but I'm curious of your opinion.
Are there speciality schools that teach how to repair electronics? I'm retired (and unfortunately very limited physically) I'm looking for something to keep me occupied. I've always like to do things the right way the first time but I have no idea where to go in this field.
biggest will be ac wall make sure the plug is not lose where it plug at wall and as well make sure the cord is not chew by mouse or rats that will cause lol problem with radio like madison I own this radio of last model of madison
Mike, I see alot where there is a push to go back and get the old 70's, 80's CB sets restored and going again. This is old technology where today there is direct conversion technology where an $8.00 RTL-SDR dongle can be converted to recieve on 27 Mhz. Perhaps you could have a UA-cam show where you convert one of these dongles and show folks the CB band with the direct conversion SDR with panadapter view of the whole 40 channels and with waterfall display. Much more efficient tool set for modern HF communication
Don't own and have never used a SDR dongle. I have never understood using a computer as a radio. Nothing beats using a real radio as a radio. Using a computer as a radio is clunky, complicated and requires lots of other accessories. Who want's to wait for their computer to boot up to use it as a radio. I reach over, turn the radio on and it's just that, on. People restore old radios because that's what they want, old radios. They usually hate new radios because they are such poor quality. Let's see if that dongle is working in 30, 40 or even 50 years, doubtful. If it transmits it would also be illegal to use on the CB band because it's not type accepted by the FCC. And getting smooth, crisp clear audio out of a horrible direct conversion digitized radio is impossible. There's only one thing that sounds amazing on air, glass. No one has simulated the sound of a vacuum tube successfully.
The only time I use IP is on old tube stuff. Mostly to get junk out of sockets. Just like you bottom side only 99% of the time. Their is one guy that does questionable work. He is well known for using things like drive way cleaner, Purple Power etc.....That said he almost always replaces all the wiring as part of his package. When I was a little kid one of the first things Dad taught me was " Never clean your tools with solvent unless you are takig them apart to rebuild them or grease them! I use compressed air from an air compressor first. Anything the air compressor does not get I than take a brush too. In fact just the other day it had been 2 years since I blew out my PC or my Blu Ray Player. The Blu Ray was almost dust free but had no grease left on the geared tray and would hardly eject. 30 seconds of air and some grease works like new. THe PC was full of dust 5 minutes later it was running cooler and the fans where spinning much quiter. Just blowing dust out of gear every couple of years can make a huge difference in how it works andhow long it lasts because of heat. Dust can also become conductive and short out parts or make them read out of range!
And of course I just realized I was on the WRONG browser page when I made this comment...teach me to preposition all your videos for easy watching! ;-)
So I am looking for some rf parts and such to send to you for repair/check/modification. I am 6 foot tall maybe 6 foot 1 if I do not slouch. I can not find the parts inthe closet. Being too lazy to go out to the garage for a latter I start stacking up boxes so I can reach the back of the closet shelves! So I find the items and get down. So while putting boxes back away I wondered what I was standing on. Russian Miltary Primers that I use in my F-Class Rifle!!! You know you have too much money in primers and powder when bricks of primers become stepping platform for you! LOL I never dreamed I would have stacked large boxes of primers in my closet area! LOLI also found some bulk 45-70 brass and bullets I had lost! This was in my electronics closet. LOL I normaly keep that sort of stuff in my flamable liquids cabinet. Oops! I suspect when they came in the mail Mom just put them in my closet with out telling me. Since I have my own place now I just forgot they where their! LOL Could have been worse could of been standing on a crate of TNT or ferminated mercury! LOL
No nonsense, common sense, packed with knowledge. One of the best electronics channel on planet earth. Bar none. Cheers!
Mike, So many good tips in one video. Your many years of practical experience are an invaluable resource. The masses are anxiously waiting for electronics class, lesson one !
THanks a Million! Just purchased a Uniden Washington base unit at a community wide yard sale. Fellow who had it swore it worked last time he used it, however the dust patterns showed that it had been in the garage for awhile as I could have written my name on the top. So in that condition I talked him down to a 20 dollar bill and brought home my new toy. RIght now I am living in our Class A motor home in Arizona, trying to avoid the cold and snow in South Dakota. Since the unit you are doing on this video is very much like the Washington, I followed your lead and cleaned her out. Didn't do a cap replacement because I don't have access to any caps right now, the inside was actually much cleaner then the case, I had cleaned the case with a damp rag before undoing all the screws which were indeed all present and accounted for. There was a light coat of dust over the entire inside, and she looked to be untouched since day one, in fact all the screws gave that factory fresh snap when I unscrewed them. After the cleaning, I power he up, and can get static all over the bands, she does seem to key up (after hooking her up to a magnamount CB antenna by Radio Shack (another classic!) I could not beg a contact despite the fact I can see Interstate 40 from my door, and all I get is static. I will try to get a better antenna for her and the meter light is burned out, however the meter seems to be in great order. The fellow I got her from said he used it for dispatch for the community watch for all of it's life but had just received a better unit as a gift from his wife last year so decided to part with this set.
Getting to my question - I would like to replace that bulb with an LED but I don't know the voltage that is running the lamp? I have some LED's along and some resistors so I could easily do the work if I knew the voltage. I am just to lazy I guess to dig out my meter and put that across the leads, and they are buried so well on the underside of the board. Perhaps I will just pull the bottom off, that is the ony part of the check I failed to do, then dig out my meter and find out for myself.
+Jerry Ericsson
Most radios run the illumination lighting off of the 13.8 volt rail. For a white LED a 820 ohm resistor usually works well. Really depends on the specs of the LED.
Jerry Ericsson You should get antenna matcher it would help swr problems tune your swr lower maybe thats why can't hear you on the Interstate you should get tram cat twin antenna that help your motor home they alot better magnamount antenna you can't get very much ranger tram cat antenna they look like coil type antennas that goes on trucker drivers.
this guy saves lives . this guy saves radio . this guy saves you money . this guy teaches you . we need more video from this guy 🙂
Most all of what you cover here applies to any piece of used electronics. Thanks for sharing, your matter of fact presentation is a great teaching style. Sadly, in most venues where one would buy a used radio someone has already plugged it in before someone can get their hands on it with a wiser approach.
Thanks for taking the time (and expen$e) to share your knowledge Mike!
Mike Love your videos you are very smart and intelligent In Electronics,I’m an old CB repairman myself Now I’m a ham operator good video God bless Tennessee.
Mike this video helped me alot buddy. Its a shame no new videos on here if you moved where? Thanks again
Great video!! I'm really into watching and learning!!! Thank You sir.
Wow. I just bought a CD radio from the thrift store yesterday. My curiosity is freaking out. I can’t wait to open the sucker
You lend so much insight to your videos. I learn so much listening to your talks.
Thank you!
So how to somebody send the radio to you to have worked on I have an old mobile unit and Grant XL and I got it at a garage sale
I like these vids. I'm a newbie so all of the tips/advice is very beneficial. Thanks you.
Rule of thumb as I was taught is NEVER use anything larger than a 5 amp fuse, even if you’re running an “internal” amplifier and a beefed up radio it’ll never draw more than 5 if it’s working properly, and if you blow a fuse take it to a radio shop
Wish u would come back to do live video
You're the man Mike
Hello,
I'm attempting to repair, a Nash and Harrison [?] nixie tube multimeter. It looks great, really clean [outside and inside]. But I'm a complete NOOB in electronics, tho I have been trying to learn more about it. And I just wanted to thank you, because your videos are full of useful instructions as to how to approach, a diagnostic and/or repair of vintage electronic equipment. You speak clearly and at a normal pace [seems to me like, most other electronic "tutorial" vids, are made by caffeine-fuelled "experts" showing off, for other experts - why make an instructional video, for others in your field? I wonder] and I truly appreciate it. Just wanted you to know, also, I've now subscribed to your channel. Thank you kindly and be safe.
Man you are a wealth of information and a pleasure to watch
LOL, that reminds me of a chap that wanted to flog a 2 meter rig.
He too claimed that it was a 'good lill' goer' as the expression goes....only ...when he lifted it up to show me... the water pissed out of the vent holes.....
Maybe not the best buy ever !
Paddy
It looks great
Great video! Also, when I look at a radio, I often times will look at the condition of the plated chassis on the back & condition of the screws and connectors. If heavily oxidized or rusted, I'll usually pass (the insides/electronics could be even worse!).
However, you've also educated me to understand/accept that (for example) a smoker's radio (from the 70's-80's) is pretty common because of people's lifestyles back then. So, if the radio is otherwise clean... then, it's definitely worthwhile if it's a rare or unusual radio.
BTW - I recently picked up a pretty clean Pearce Simpson Bearcat 23B. It was a smoker's radio, but it also had the owner's SS # engraved on bottom and back. Again, that was a sign of the times' because back then CB's were expensive (especially a nice base station or higher end mobile rig) and high-theft items. So, taking that into account, and the fact that it's not normally noticeable, it doesn't bother me. Maybe it adds a different kind of petina to the radio?? lol
PS: The FCC sticker with owner's name, address and FCC CB callsign are also on the radio. Again... "more petina". :)
Great video, as usual. Could you do one on finding replacements & substitutions for obsolete parts?
Always liked Mikes videos...
Isolation xformer. Fantastic advice.
Great information
Hifi. I found a radio that has a noise floor that is very calming, like white noise.
great vid Mike, love these. you speak a lot of common sense! thank you.
That is a sexy radio!
Thank you!
I like to clean my radios with gasoline, because with my electronic skills lighting the radio on fire is better than my working on it. 😝
Great video as always Mike
Excellent tips! Thanks for sharing!
If I hear glue anymore I’ll snap out 😂😂😂😂
Acohol/ Freon ,I wish I could still find it it was use to clean video head evaporates fast ,and resistors that get not I like metal film maybe the next size,up But I play with tube radios .but your videos still help a lot.
I had an old Denon amplifier that had all Denon branded audio capacitors. I didn't think they made capacitors, but they were probably made with their name on them by Panasonic, Nichicon or Elna.
23:18 I believe that glue is called Sonybond? 🤔 Apparently, it can become conductive through age? 🤔
1:20 Don't forget 'screwdrivered'. 😉
I have the madison before this model, always wanted this model on this video
Very good information.
I have a question about what type of vacuum cleaner to use to get rid of the dust. We have a hoover upright with a detachable hose that we got at a yard sale and the center brush on the bottom doesn't work. We also have a shop vac with a hose but it doesn't have a crevice tool. It came with one but 10 years ago we moved and we lost it. Well its not lost its some where in the garage or the basement. Now if we can find the crevice tool should we use the hoover to help clean off the dust if it will fit? Does any one know if the tools are interchangeable from a shop vac not sure the model but its red and has a descent sized can but we had to throw away the filter so that might affect how much dust it could get off the circuit board. I'm not sure how many gallons it hold but we used it to clean out the basement and only had to dump out the dirt once. The basement is not that big but we haven't cleaned it in probably three years since one time it flooded. We didn't use the shop vac to suck out the water though. For that we rented a pump. Back to the hoover the brush on the bottom doesn't spin and I thought it was the belt but when I took it apart I couldn't find the belt. So I looked up the model on the internet but couldn't connect because comcast still hadn't switched us from verizon yet. We called comcast and they said the third party verification failed. So I went to redo it but it turns out the bill was in my wifes name and they had to talk to her. That would have been fine but she was at work. So we tried to call her at work but when we did the conference call we got her voice mail. So when I was on hold I realized the hoover doesn't have a belt. So I tried to plug it in and test it when it was upside down but I couldn't reach the power switch. Once I got the vacuum upright I realized I might need a volt meter. We used to have one in our basement before we moved. But alot of things got mixed up when we condensed the things from the attic in our old house. So after I found it I tried to see if the lower motor was getting voltage. But it wasn't . Or should I just use a can of dust off?
3:20 Also don't forget tinfoil and 6 inch nails as fuses! 😱
great vid , we learned a lot... thank you
The steps you make are very well explained. For people new to (cb or hamradio) repair this is very usefull. Please complete the next steps with this transceiver. I am looking forward to your electronic course. Maybe an idea is to explain the basics and translate that to a actual radio circuit. You get the idea. Thanks Mike for sharing your experience en knowledge. See you next time.
Well, I finally had to subscribe to your channel 'cause I watch so many of yer videos. I need to see a few of you working on guitar amps 'cause I play a guitar, an Ibanez. I use a solid state Crate amp 150 watts. I have an old isolation transformer with 3 different 2 prong sockets at voltages from 105, 110 and 120. I took one side of the bell off and mounted an on off toggle switch for its line cord. Guess if I had to use it for a 3 prong power cord I'd have to use an adapter. Can I do this safely? I have my wife's parents' CB single sideband radios that were bought brand new. As soon as I can find them and the D-104 in the storage shed I'm gonna take it apart and check it out. I may need to replace all the caps since it is from the mid 70's.
Good to learn video
Real men wash the radio out im the tub with bubble bath at the rubber ducky
douche it out.
They call me Mr. Bubble! Lol.
Matt: I love "bubbles"
on my "ducky"!! 🤣😉
So are you gonna cut n polish the heat sinks for the wow factor too? I did mine, Alway enjoy your videos Mike, Thanks.
Great video. Would you (or anyone else reading this) happen to know how to get rid of that annoying popping sound every time the channel is changed on these types of CB radios? I have a President P400 (same as the Uniden Washington) that does this, just like the Madison, and the Cobra 142 GTL. It's not a problem contact cleaner can fix, as cleaner has been applied in the past. Thanks for your help.
Oh, wow, thank you. I've asked people in the past, but nobody seems to know. They do say stuff like "It can be done", but that is it, lol. Thanks again.
Well, I opened up the radio, but there is a blank spot where R197 should be. Perhaps my particular PCB omitted it for some reason. Thanks for your help, regardless.
To get the maximum transfer of heat from a transistor to a heat sink use the thinnest layer of white thermal compound you can manage. A layer so thin you can barely see it is best. I tested this with expensive computer processors in the 90's and it's true. Metal to metal is best. The next best is a microscopic layer of heat compound. Look for Arctic Silver on eBay. Heat pads suck. They insulate almost as much as they transfer.
this is not correct.
If you place a CPU bare die, or even one with a heat spreader " metal to metal " you will no longer have a processor. If you mount a transistor to a heat-sink that has a common collector and do not use an insulator between bare metal and the transistor body; you will no longer have a transistor
too much thermal grease is not good, but so is not enough.
Nope. Have you done the test for yourself? I know what common knowledge says. I hear it myself. But have you done the tests for yourself? I have. The very least heat compound you can manage, an almost transparent layer, works best and transfers the most heat. Only bare metal to metal transfers more heat but then you get microscopic air gaps because the metal parts aren't 100% flat. A THIN layer of heat compound fills those air gaps and adds to the transfer. A thick layer of paste becomes an insulator and that you do not want!
Please recap my 138 xlr 😅😅😅
Is there not a hole in the board under the rectifier so you do not need to unsolder it?
This is the glue killer 😅😅😅😅
I have three different Madisons, President and Uniden. Which one would be the best to keep, the older ones or the newer ones? I want to send one to you for a check up, however I don't know the history of theses radios.
You need two young girls to pee on that radio 😂😂
What about replacing the speaker with a three way speaker?
Great tips Mike, thank you. The conductive glue that should be removed is it replace with something else or not replaced at all. Thanks for sharing your wisdom with us. Joel
+In Joel's Garage
In base stations I don't replace it with anything. In mobile radios that are subjected to a lot of vibration I use hot glue. Nice thing about hot glue is its easy to remove later. Just add a drop or two of isopropyl alcohol, let it set for a few seconds and it pops right off. It doesn't melt the glue, it just breaks it's bond somehow.
Hey Mike, how would one get in contact with you? I have a Uniden Washington my mom and dad bought me for Christmas many moons ago and its been through its share of hack cb golden screwdrivers over the years. I'd love to have it restored! Thanks!
I have a 2527 Galaxy it has sit for a while someone told me that the capacitors go out when they sit without being used. Purchased a antron 99 and all I get is static need your opinion sir thank you very much love your videos.
Hi Mike, Great advice on buying a unknown radio.
I have a question to ask you, I have been working on a President P300 SSB mobile radio.
It came to my shop not working and after a clean and realignment the radio worked fine for 4 weeks then stopped working. Turning the radio off for 30 minutes it would work for 5 minutes and stop Transmitting again. The radio has no TX audio on both AM and SSB. (Note: Dead carrier on AM, nothing on SSB) The radio has the Uniden PC-833AF board.
The radio receives and has PA audio but nothing getting to the transmit. I have recapped the whole radio and still no audio on TX.
Do you have any ideas where i might look?
Thanks Mike.
I’m tired of glue 😂😂😂😂
Unfortunately I did not know that or about you when I ordered I my caps. LOL 70% of them are audio grade Nichicon from Mouser. Once I found out about you and started watching your video's I stopped that. LOL
thanks for the excellent instructions. I was aware of the aging problem of electrolytic capacitors but I am wary of replacing them and then finding it has affected the alignment negatively, I have an old 23 channel cb, if I am not capable of aligning the radio after electrolytic capacitor replacement am I better off leaving the old caps in?
Like I said before the less IF transformers there is the better so SDR based Citizens Band Transceivers are the way to go, Panasonic capacitors.
Can I use a spliced 14v handheld charger as the wall-to-cb power supply?
So it's not like a Glade air freshener? I can't just "plug it in, plug it in?"
Hey, Mike.
Thank you for the tutorial!
What type of heat transfer paste do you recommend?
I have some for CPUs, but I would assume that there are particular types...
Thank you.
73 de KF4LBG
Larry (Saltshaker)
North Florida
Personally I use Dow Corning 340 heat sink compound but any name brand would do.
Whoever cool bro I think it's a 148 model you fix it I know it works need to put a new mic connector on and I don't know what else it doesn't do SWR meters at working and can't calibrate it but I know it transmits
Crystals can also go too far out of spec to correct too, Even if its been sat in a cupboard for 30 years .
I love this type of video, can you talk about the min equipment needed to get into servicing cb's
And can we buy used or should we buy used? EBay? Can we service the test equipment? Or should it be professionally aligned or calibrated
Depends on your technical ability, alignment of test equipment requires SOME TEST equipment, if you can afford a piece of gear that has recent calibration certs, do that.
Starter Kit:
8 Digit frequency counter.
Audio signal gen.
RF Signal gen capable of 1 KHz audio signal at 30% modulation.
Sinad meter.
@ LEAST 60 MHz bandwidth Oscilloscope.
RF sampler. (make one)
SDR (poor mans band-view scope, prefer a spectrum analyzer though)
73
Your videos are good. You seem to be. A very very good tech. What do you charge to look at and fix. A radio. And do you do the basic swing mod. Cause that's all I need. But the right way. No clipped limiter.
I don't do "swing" mods. All they do is increase adjacent channel splatter and increase harmonic emissions. End result is it distorts the transmitted audio and actually lowers power on channel.
Can all the parts be acquired to replace on these older vintage beautiful CB radios?
Should the line to line and line to chassis caps be replaced? Especially if they're not X or Y, respectively, rated. I personally would, but I'm curious of your opinion.
Are there speciality schools that teach how to repair electronics? I'm retired (and unfortunately very limited physically) I'm looking for something to keep me occupied. I've always like to do things the right way the first time but I have no idea where to go in this field.
Where’s the glue😂😂😂😅😅
biggest will be ac wall make sure the plug is not lose where it plug at wall and as well make sure the cord is not chew by mouse or rats that will cause lol problem with radio like madison I own this radio of last model of madison
How much glue do you have 😂😂😂
Hello MikeRadioRepair..i been trying to contact you...are you still doing repairs?
Just glue it 😂😂
Mr ma glue 😅😅😅
Glue man 😂😂😂😂
Do resistors change tolerance over the years? If so, is it enough to worry about?
Typically, resistors will not change over the years, provided they weren't subject to over current or over voltage.
Get a mouse 🐁 to eat the glue 😂😂😂😂
I still have a 45 year old CB. Why would someone want to start up something like that when you can buy a new one?
Why put more gas in your car when you can buy a new one?
@@1893Mauser
You get a good CB for $150 to $200. Keep the old one as an antique.
Mike, I see alot where there is a push to go back and get the old 70's, 80's CB sets restored and going again. This is old technology where today there is direct conversion technology where an $8.00 RTL-SDR dongle can be converted to recieve on 27 Mhz. Perhaps you could have a UA-cam show where you convert one of these dongles and show folks the CB band with the direct conversion SDR with panadapter view of the whole 40 channels and with waterfall display. Much more efficient tool set for modern HF communication
Don't own and have never used a SDR dongle. I have never understood using a computer as a radio. Nothing beats using a real radio as a radio. Using a computer as a radio is clunky, complicated and requires lots of other accessories. Who want's to wait for their computer to boot up to use it as a radio. I reach over, turn the radio on and it's just that, on. People restore old radios because that's what they want, old radios. They usually hate new radios because they are such poor quality. Let's see if that dongle is working in 30, 40 or even 50 years, doubtful. If it transmits it would also be illegal to use on the CB band because it's not type accepted by the FCC. And getting smooth, crisp clear audio out of a horrible direct conversion digitized radio is impossible. There's only one thing that sounds amazing on air, glass. No one has simulated the sound of a vacuum tube successfully.
I'd rather gamble on an eBay radio than give my money to a casino. I don't go to casinos so I need some knowledge and test equipment.
The only time I use IP is on old tube stuff. Mostly to get junk out of sockets. Just like you bottom side only 99% of the time.
Their is one guy that does questionable work. He is well known for using things like drive way cleaner, Purple Power etc.....That said he almost always replaces all the wiring as part of his package.
When I was a little kid one of the first things Dad taught me was " Never clean your tools with solvent unless you are takig them apart to rebuild them or grease them! I use compressed air from an air compressor first. Anything the air compressor does not get I than take a brush too.
In fact just the other day it had been 2 years since I blew out my PC or my Blu Ray Player. The Blu Ray was almost dust free but had no grease left on the geared tray and would hardly eject. 30 seconds of air and some grease works like new. THe PC was full of dust 5 minutes later it was running cooler and the fans where spinning much quiter. Just blowing dust out of gear every couple of years can make a huge difference in how it works andhow long it lasts because of heat. Dust can also become conductive and short out parts or make them read out of range!
Glue glue glue 😢😢😢
Whoever did the LED mod had to go WAY out of his way to find/use that point as a supply for the light, sheesh!
And of course I just realized I was on the WRONG browser page when I made this comment...teach me to preposition all your videos for easy watching! ;-)
There’s no glue on it
Hey Mike what is your contact information. Thanks
So I am looking for some rf parts and such to send to you for repair/check/modification. I am 6 foot tall maybe 6 foot 1 if I do not slouch. I can not find the parts inthe closet. Being too lazy to go out to the garage for a latter I start stacking up boxes so I can reach the back of the closet shelves! So I find the items and get down. So while putting boxes back away I wondered what I was standing on. Russian Miltary Primers that I use in my F-Class Rifle!!! You know you have too much money in primers and powder when bricks of primers become stepping platform for you! LOL I never dreamed I would have stacked large boxes of primers in my closet area! LOLI also found some bulk 45-70 brass and bullets I had lost! This was in my electronics closet. LOL I normaly keep that sort of stuff in my flamable liquids cabinet. Oops! I suspect when they came in the mail Mom just put them in my closet with out telling me. Since I have my own place now I just forgot they where their! LOL Could have been worse could of been standing on a crate of TNT or ferminated mercury! LOL
Want to borrow my glue gun 😅😅😅😅
Hi mike I always see r videos can u get in touch with me I have a microphone that’s need repair
Some people use WD40 lol and think its fine NOPE!
Do you cut meat 🥩
You are a butcher 😂😂😂
Hey 👋 Mike.
Do you still work on cb radios?