awesome job, thanks for putting out all these videos, one of the best on youtube. Regarding your centering pins, you are driving them towards the exhaust, you need to drive them towards the intake. They are tapered so will pop right out when hitting the right way. Found this in the repair manual. Looking forward to more of your vids. Thanks again.
Brandon is one bad dude hopefully there's no negative comments on here keep doing what you doing Brandon appreciate you you put me where I'm at today and I appreciate everything that you put up.
Bro, Taper / alignment pins. you took them out backwards. they punch out from block / cyl side towards intake. Try it, funny how much easier it goes. They are called taper pins because the block side is smaller in a taper than the carb side. When you knock them out backwards you destroy the hole it goes in and now, aligning that case half just became harder. Many times it cracks the case half. just fyi Rod bolts... any 12 point socket works as long as its thinwalled lol. For thick walled 3/8 sockets a moment on a grinding wheel to slightly thin it out works well. Then you have the 2 dollar version that works forever. no 4 piston with the little indent. The ring alignment pin/ring groove pin came out i think. Happens rarely but.... Anyway, you always do a great job. Keep it up! About the cross flow engines... Best OMC or anyone ever made for longevity and a workhorse that just keeps on going. It always saddens me to see buildable machines be retired. I am retired too lol but still building when I can. Whenever I come across one in Florida or wherever I try to buy and if it is not totally abuse or eaten by salt I rebuild them. Don't make lots of money on them but I know that whoever gets it in the end will have something that will last them for decades if they just take care of it. Wish I were closer, would trade you out of all you get.
I'm watching this and I hear him say that he's going to scrap the engine because he broke a couple of bolts off. I broke 4 of the head bolts alone, and another two the heads came off on the 6" bolts that holds the powerhead to the lower unit. I'm bringing it to a machine shop so they can remove the broken bolts. First time working on an outboard engine. I've worked on cars that were 45 years old that were easier than this sob. As I'm writing this I'm still trying to find a way to get the powerhead separated from the lower unit. It has 18 years since this was put together.
I enjoy this video series but do you have a series for assembling and rebuilding the motor? I have a 225 Johnson and would like to watch. Do you correspond via email or other means? Thanks for posting.
No, this was in my early days of UA-cam. I recorded videos of taking apart motors for my parts stash. My theory was once I was able to monetize the channel, I would start spending the time & money on repair videos. Looking back on it, I should have recorded and saved more for later use. Anywho, I have a rebuild video of a 115HP, basics of that are the same.
@@BrandonsGarage I figured you must have assembled or taken apart enough of them cause I know I would have to take pictures along the way and organize with labels. Yes I will check out your video on the 115? I’m going to change reed valves if you happen to have a video on that? Pretty straightforward but I like to hear what others have to say about it. Thanks for the reply.
Brandon, whats the significance of the rubber deflectors in the water jacket below each cylinder? I cant find anything on them. Do they NEED to be installed when rebuilding?
Great Video. Wounder if you can help me with a stuck Crank Shaft in my '85 Johnson V4 140. I'm trying to remove the lower unit to replace the water pump and with all bolts removed the lower unit is hanging tight to the motor. I can't figure out a way to get to the top of the shaft to spry it with the PB Blaster. I've tried to beat the lower unit and to pry it loose but can only get the lower unit to come down about a 1/2 inch. Any help would be appreciated. Only other thing I can think of to try is run the engine and shift between forward and reverse several times to try loosen things up.
Never use an impact to disassemble an aluminum engine! You need to be able to feel the bolt resistance. If they start to bind, turn 'em back in, a turn and a half, then keep backing out. You will break less bolts, and waste less time re-tapping threads. And when assembling, always default to INCH pounds! I've watched a complacent guy grab the FOOT pounder, and commence to snapping and stripping bolt after bolt. 🤦♂️
I think he knew that motor was toast so he didn't care. If he was keeping it he would have used hand tools or an air ratchet. Yes, all kinds of things can snap when using an impact. I have 2 parts motors I am taking apart with air.
awesome job, thanks for putting out all these videos, one of the best on youtube. Regarding your centering pins, you are driving them towards the exhaust, you need to drive them towards the intake. They are tapered so will pop right out when hitting the right way. Found this in the repair manual. Looking forward to more of your vids. Thanks again.
Brandon is one bad dude hopefully there's no negative comments on here keep doing what you doing Brandon appreciate you you put me where I'm at today and I appreciate everything that you put up.
Bro, Taper / alignment pins. you took them out backwards. they punch out from block / cyl side towards intake. Try it, funny how much easier it goes. They are called taper pins because the block side is smaller in a taper than the carb side. When you knock them out backwards you destroy the hole it goes in and now, aligning that case half just became harder. Many times it cracks the case half. just fyi
Rod bolts... any 12 point socket works as long as its thinwalled lol. For thick walled 3/8 sockets a moment on a grinding wheel to slightly thin it out works well. Then you have the 2 dollar version that works forever.
no 4 piston with the little indent. The ring alignment pin/ring groove pin came out i think. Happens rarely but....
Anyway, you always do a great job. Keep it up!
About the cross flow engines... Best OMC or anyone ever made for longevity and a workhorse that just keeps on going. It always saddens me to see buildable machines be retired. I am retired too lol but still building when I can. Whenever I come across one in Florida or wherever I try to buy and if it is not totally abuse or eaten by salt I rebuild them. Don't make lots of money on them but I know that whoever gets it in the end will have something that will last them for decades if they just take care of it. Wish I were closer, would trade you out of all you get.
Thanks!
do you ever rebuild one or do you just take them apart, I'd like to watch that process see if it is something I could do
Keep up the good work, really enjoying these!
I'm watching this and I hear him say that he's going to scrap the engine because he broke a couple of bolts off. I broke 4 of the head bolts alone, and another two the heads came off on the 6" bolts that holds the powerhead to the lower unit. I'm bringing it to a machine shop so they can remove the broken bolts. First time working on an outboard engine. I've worked on cars that were 45 years old that were easier than this sob. As I'm writing this I'm still trying to find a way to get the powerhead separated from the lower unit. It has 18 years since this was put together.
are you going to have it bored .030 over? those were good motors once you ditch the vro
I enjoy this video series but do you have a series for assembling and rebuilding the motor? I have a 225 Johnson and would like to watch. Do you correspond via email or other means? Thanks for posting.
No, this was in my early days of UA-cam.
I recorded videos of taking apart motors for my parts stash. My theory was once I was able to monetize the channel, I would start spending the time & money on repair videos.
Looking back on it, I should have recorded and saved more for later use.
Anywho, I have a rebuild video of a 115HP, basics of that are the same.
@@BrandonsGarage I figured you must have assembled or taken apart enough of them cause I know I would have to take pictures along the way and organize with labels.
Yes I will check out your video on the 115?
I’m going to change reed valves if you happen to have a video on that? Pretty straightforward but I like to hear what others have to say about it. Thanks for the reply.
Snap on 5/16 twelve point socket and tapper pin comes out back to front
what was your compression?
The crankcase taper pins were stuck because you were driving them the wrong way. They drive out from the back side to the front side of the block.
Brandon, whats the significance of the rubber deflectors in the water jacket below each cylinder? I cant find anything on them. Do they NEED to be installed when rebuilding?
yes!
the manual lists location.
Yes new ones are important with out them it won't let motor heat up to the right temperature
Great Video. Wounder if you can help me with a stuck Crank Shaft in my '85 Johnson V4 140. I'm trying to remove the lower unit to replace the water pump and with all bolts removed the lower unit is hanging tight to the motor. I can't figure out a way to get to the top of the shaft to spry it with the PB Blaster. I've tried to beat the lower unit and to pry it loose but can only get the lower unit to come down about a 1/2 inch. Any help would be appreciated. Only other thing I can think of to try is run the engine and shift between forward and reverse several times to try loosen things up.
And you removed the shift rod-pin correct?
Yep it was easy. Once loose I used a flex rod with a grabber to hold it and I pulled it out.
Never use an impact to disassemble an aluminum engine! You need to be able to feel the bolt resistance. If they start to bind, turn 'em back in, a turn and a half, then keep backing out. You will break less bolts, and waste less time re-tapping threads. And when assembling, always default to INCH pounds! I've watched a complacent guy grab the FOOT pounder, and commence to snapping and stripping bolt after bolt. 🤦♂️
I think he knew that motor was toast so he didn't care. If he was keeping it he would have used hand tools or an air ratchet. Yes, all kinds of things can snap when using an impact. I have 2 parts motors I am taking apart with air.
Hope you’re heads aren’t warped now
I hope you’re heads aren’t warped now.
If you had heated each bolthead with a torch first you'd had gotten them all out...
thanks for shareing
I wish this 175 evinrude was an etec or wish it could be converted to an etec
Why is it junk? Because a couple bolts broke? Broken bolts on outboards are par for the course. Your throwing away good money.
Piston walls werent good.
a complete overhaul would have fixed it. But, 2 engines to make one good one is a cheaper option.
Dont believe I would throw it away.
Oh I didnt, just have no plans on ever fixing it.
Defeated by an exhaust manifold......pathetic