Your perseverance with that motor is inspiring, keep on it, I'm sure you will figure it out. I like the way you solve problems such as this without throwing a bunch of money at it. Way-to-go TOO, keep on!
You mention that the bottom carb is not pulling as hard as the top, Looked like you were noticing some splash back on the airbox cover toward the end of the video. Might be another symptom of that reed with light showing through the bottom intake causing that issue. For trouble shooting purposes are you able to swap those two reed cages around to see if the carbs pull differently? if not how about the leaf valve it's self?
Hey Al. Originally its been the top cylinder with less pull. I think after I swapped the carb linkage rod for the shorter one it was holding the top carb open just a hair more causing it to pull a little harder then the bottom and I may have not resynced them yet. Anyway, I appreciate how observant you are, wish everybody was like that! And yes I was looking at the box cover, splashback seems a bit harsh, I would call it a light mist, Hahaha. Nothing unusual for a two stroke. I dont think I've ever seen one that had a bone dry silencer cover. And the lovely reed, with the hairline of sunlight showing through. Haha Yes, I could have swapped or corrected it, which your not suppose to do, so they say. I've done it a few times with no problems, bent/corrected it I mean. But on much worse valves then that one, and more than just one hanging open and I mean hanging to where fuel was spitting out the carb! So long story short, after doing the blow back test, carbs on and carbs off, I just didn't feel it was necessary to mess with it. Could it have been the reason for the bottom carb pulling slightly more, maybe. But those carbs are set to idle at closed butterflies. Running them one cylinder at at time the top carb couldn't keep up, at idle or at advanced throttle. In my opinion, it was running to different to blame it on the one bottom reed being slightly open. I guess the long story short just got long again! Hahaha Anyway I dont know if you've been following or just tuned in on this episode. It's a lot to deal with when all these different things start to happen at the same time. Started with a slight hesitation and slowly progressed to this over a couple weeks. And to top it off, we caught a guy stealing parts off it last night. Got my brand new omc coils and was trying to get my battery. Unbelievable ! Stay tuned for that! Thanks again !
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 Thanks for the reply. I've been watching the whole series. Along with the others over the past few yrs. I enjoy the channel very much and look forward to each episode. Keep at it, you'll figure it out. Sorry to hear about thieves, I have no patience for them.
Did you do a vacuum test yet ? On the carbs and block ? I’m still thinking lower crank seal or fuel pump diaphragm failure and fuel is being sucked into the block from the backside of pump . It looked like a hose wasn’t connected laying in the pan ? Just my thoughts !
feel your pain. had a 70s 50hp electric shift at the shop, was running one 1 cyl, ive been on cdi tech line confirming my dva tests over and over - stator kicks 185v disconnected. throw on a pack - 0.5v. 3 packs in a row now. its a joke!
It sounds like the throttle cable on the motor the dial needs to be turned a couple turns it’s stalling when going into neutral. The rpms drop to fast causing it to stall. Check to see if the screw holding the cable mounts to the motor are tight and the black dials are adjusted good.
It would be nice to have a timing light attached when it revs up to see if it is spark advancing or fuel air related? Hang in there you will figure it out you always do 👍
It's too rich is why you're having to give it air to get it to restart.....check the float levels in the carbs. People love dicking around with those and getting the height wrong. I bought the Johnson version or this new in 1978 and still have it. Still runs great.
Hey. Thanks for watching and commenting. I've been through the carbs a couple of times. Just did a carb swap on the top cylinder with no change. Anyway, just caught a guy stealing my new coils and going for the battery when I got there. He was in a boat and took off. We raced to catch him at the ramp but he was gone. The guys fishing there at the ramp, said he left in a big hurry. He had his buddies waiting for him with the trailer. F***ing Bastard. Totally planned out. He probably watches my videos. I'll catch up with you later. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
Those problems never end man! I’am having problem with my evinrude 60 hp not idling so I can shift gears before it dies, i’am rebuilding the carbs and the reeds seem ok, just trying to get it to idle so I can shift the dam gears!! Just hoping that fixes the problem. Otherwise it runs great!
Both lower driveshaft bearings are SHOT, both show the light brown overheating color. u can hear them go clunck when you turn motor by hand. i had the exact same thing with a 3 cil 60 horse. It too had good compression, but it ran real rowdy and stalled with idle that motor ur trying to fix...has one leg in outboard heaven VRO gets them every time
Alright I have it figured out since I actually seen and heard it good. Disconnect your solenoid when it’s doing this and I bet you a dollar it won’t do it again. It sounds like the solenoid for the choke is being activated causing the rpms to jump up it also sounds like it’s popping into gear when the rpms are reaving up. I guarantee you the solenoid is causing more gas to be pulled into the motor when this is happening. Could be something in your remote. Wish I was there to help with it buddy. Good luck
Hey. Thanks for the tip! But the 79 is still manual choke butterflies, although it does have a solenoid to activate them with a key push. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
It seemed a bit stiff when turning by hand. A great quicky field test for the condition of any outboard is to, with it in neutral, plugs in, spin the flywheel by hand. just the partial turn in between compressions. It should spin freely, silky smooth. With a quick snap spin and release, it should bounce back off of compression. With good bearings and cylinders, You can easily feel the momentary pulse of the magnets in the flywheel as they pass, if equipped.....How did that fuel pump check out? Good luck.
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. There was a part of the video where I did something similar but using the starter, but it got edited out. I was showing how the piston bounces back and seems to end up in the same position. Kind of the same thing. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
Yes sir I would like to get ahold of you because my motor jump timing and I've been watching your videos and I can't comprehend it I want to see if you have fix it for me
Damn. I wish I had the magic solution, but there’s lots of “can be’s” with the way it’s running. If it’s racing out of control it must be getting excessive fuel or air to raise the RPM above idle. I know two strokes are finicky about case leaks and seal leaks. I’d just go back and look at everything again warm and hot. Maybe even check for leaks under a vacuum rather then pressure. I’m gonna have a talk with those outboard gods! They need to knock this $hit off and help you figure this one out!
i have a 75 40hp that im fighting a lean sneeze with, only the bottom cylinder. in my readings, ive learned burnt piston skirts can cause issues. i did too find the reed assembly was a lil wet where it shouldnt have been. have yet to put parts at it but see where were at after that i guess. not sure if it can be done on an outboard, but on 2 stroke bikes, people do leakdown tests, pressureize the crankcase to determine if theres a leak. its driving me nuts too, sometimes it will idle okay, sometimes it coughs like crazy, runs like a friggen top anywhere besides idle
It sounds like it's leaning out after a hard run. I would almost think the fuel pump may not be keeping up and it leans out for a second until the fuel fills the carbs??
Hey. Thanks for watching and commenting. Yeah its funny how that just started happening. That pump was on the 40hp I'm gonna swap it out and see what happens. Thanks again and stay tuned !
Sorry it is giving problems.. I had 25 do that had a scratch on exhaust side of piston where you could not see. Finally went .20 over and board it out.
take off the flywheel and check the sensor coil inner magnet... might have shifted, and of course the key while your in there. you can try the flywheel from the 40hp, just make sure to lap the tapers. also, i'd check the idle timing... should be i think 0-4 degrees btdc, whatever the manual says. should help the starting issue if its like 6 or 8 btdc now
Hey. The stator is all one piece, you know with everything encased in a mold type stuff. So no separate parts under there. The key and groove are in great shape and Idle timing is 3 +/- 1. 40 was sold weeks ago. Thanks again Bro! Stay tuned !
Any chance your timing arm could be sticking after you pull the throttle to idle? I had one doing that and the grease was old and sticky and the timing arm was really slow about coming back to the stop
I think your running lean on fuel. When you run your fuel level is dropping in the bowl and the carbs can deliver more fuel to the engine. In gear there is not enough fuel to keep her running at high rpm. I like your video. Check the float levels on the carbs and look for anything that could cause a restriction. Fuel pump could be suspect as well. Remember lean is mean.
At this point you have to be thinking something under the flywheel isn’t working out so well, a lose screw or key way to small something is moving around. Some times walking away from it for a bit helps me get a clear head as to what it’s trying to tell me. I know you will figure it out. If not I just watch some of your videos 😂.
Hey. Thanks for watching and commenting. There is no primer. The 79 is still manual choke. Although there is a solenoid that closes them with the key push. Really appreciate it. Stay tuned !
Hey Thanks for tuning in! I've eliminated any problems with the the tank/fuel line/vent/primer bulb a few episodes back. It's been good ever since. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
Hey George. Thanks for tuning in. Yeah wasnt sure if that was the starter or a reed valve honking at me. Finally figured it out. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
sounds like a fuel problem , 2 stroke love any over amount of fuel when cold , when they are at running temperature they need their air/fuel cocktail exactly as it should be to run smooth , open reed valves no good , you should not see light true the reeds , clean that over yeared gooky sealant off ,replace gasket with original , fix the reed , swap out or replace , when you back off the throttle the butterflies should disengage evenly ,but youre engine still gets fuel or fuel vapor after you disengage , when you disengage the timing also disengages , when engine is at running temperature it will get to much fuel to even run stationary , so much fuel so little air the idle lever opens butterflies allowing air to yoin flooded engine so it starts and reves up burning all that excessive fuel as soon you take away the air (idle lever back down)engine floods , the reeds are just as important as a good fuel pump , the electronic going bad when on running temperature is almost impossible , either it works or it don't work (marine outboards) thats how they build them , exeptions like , i own a 2009 yamaha 2 stroke 85 hp it has a cdi that has limp mode when cdi goes bad you can still limp home , great videos enjoy watching them and shared my though
I agree with MegaSensimila's comment about the gooky sealant, and the bad reed. Those need to be fixed first. That reed that was showing light through on the bottom intake is an issue. TOO noticed a difference in how the bottom carb was pulling compared to the top carb. Leaky reed will allow fuel backwash into the carb making it possibly pool up and maybe causing those hi rev episodes. Another symptom of a bad reed is hard starting and a bog, It's possible you may see some fuel spraying onto the front of that air box when the reeds are not working correctly. Dangar Marine explains the concept of how they work here ua-cam.com/video/a-l1WqKaPVI/v-deo.html
My opinion put a tach on the dash see her rpms are with different props 😉 she could be loading up on you Test different props ? Had a 76 115 Omc that had us frustrated till we started to see her RPM ratio from full throttle take off to max speed did we found a balance in both ; never looked back she came out the hole well got on plane fast but just lost 2mph
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Maybe the rings are stuck on that piston. Try soaking it for a few days. There's all kinds of recipes out there for loosening stuck rings. Look some up, you may have to try a couple of different ones to see what works. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
Poor idle , hard cold starting , lack of power is worn piston skirts. For the reed valves to be bad they have to blow gas back out of the carburetors Leads to lack of primary compression
Hey John. Long time. Yes, I know. Power has never been the problem. It runs like champ. Started with a slight hesitation and progressed into hard start/poor idle within a couple weeks, cold and/or hot. Went after the fuel system first, got down to the reeds, no spitting out, carbs on or off. Isn't excessive smoking also a sign of worn skirts? I also thought it was strange when I took the reeds off, the crank and rod/caps were very dry and very clean. Not oily. Is there a way water could be entering the case? Bearings still sound good. Anyway just a slight setback here. Caught an asshole stealing parts off the 55 last night, he got my new set of omc coils and was going after my battery when I caught him. he took off and we tried to catch him at the ramp. The guys fishing there told us we just missed him. He had another guy waiting at the ramp with the trailer ready to go. It was totally planned out. F***ing Prick
It's not the needle it's not the float I want to say it may be a bad trigger but if it was a bad trigger then why are you able to get up top speed but you never know just might be the trigger
I had a motor that was doing something similar to that. I had to choke it to get it to start and it wouldn't idle for crap. But I had just rebuilt the motor and it was running super fantastic then it was not. Turns out the flywheel key was sheared and it was built with what is known as wasted spark which means both spark plugs always fired together so it could run with the flywheel 180 degrees from where it should be but it ran crappy like I said. I must have pulled those carbs apart 10 times. May not be your problem but what if it is. Here is a good test to see if top crank seal is leaking. ua-cam.com/video/AWuRd7yjHlQ/v-deo.html
Did you ever swap out the coils and pack ????? Do that simple enough before you drive yourself crazy, LOLLL... eliminate that possibility my friend first then move on only my take on it.....GP
Hey. No I haven't put the new OMC coils in yet. I want to be sure there's nothing burning up my coils first, after what happened with that new aftermarket coil. I mean aftermarket is aftermarket but I've never burned one up. P-pack may be an issue. haven't gotten that far yet but something is going on. Thanks again for tuning in!
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 Nothing Nothing worse than trying to start a slightly flooded motor thats dropping a cylinder intermittently after she run a little and got hot when you dont know it, HA! Those 55 dont run good on one cylinder hard starting etc. I hate going threw that thinking its this, then that, then this syndrome too, LOL .Anyway youll figure it out again these are old engines with sometimes multiple issues especially the 40HP and up & bigger guys loaded with problems sometimes as you know....Good Luck! ..GP
TOO stop looking at the motor and start looking at the control box. You keep saying that fast start lever lol that actually might be the issues especially if it's the old johnson control box.
Hahaha. What's up DB. The Feds still haven't picked you up yet. Hahaha I keep telling them where your at! Haha Thanks again for tuning in! No on the gas, I'm sure I've probably pumped 10 gallons through that thing by now. Thanks again & Stay tuned for the next episode!
I’m no outboard Mechanic by far but I had a similar problem with my evenrude 175 and it turned out as a slight leak in the fuel line and slowly dropping the prime ....
@@poweredparachute1 Hey Robert. Thanks for tuning in and commenting. Yeah the tank/fuel line/primer bulb was the first thing I went after and eliminated. That was a few vids back. Everythings been good in that department since. Anyway just caught a dude stealing parts off the 55 at the dock. He was going for my battery when I walked up on him. he took off and we tried to catch him at the ramp. the guys fishing there saw him and said he left in a big hurry. he had his buddies waiting for him with the trailer. so it was all planned out. he did get away with my new omc coils. F***ing Prick! Thanks again for tuning in!
It’s a dam sham when people pinch stuff . I’m working on the evinrude 175 6 cylinder ATM and I’m having sneezing problem only just when the engine is dead cold for about first 3 minutes then it cleans it self out ( it’s got me beat) When it runs and idle fine and when start up even if it sits for 20 minutes and starts it’s works fine but dead cold it’s a bitch .... lol
Your perseverance with that motor is inspiring, keep on it, I'm sure you will figure it out. I like the way you solve problems such as this without throwing a bunch of money at it. Way-to-go TOO, keep on!
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Yeah That's the problem, I don't have a bunch of money to Throw at it! Hahaha. Thanks & Stay tuned !
That thing is like me only feels good every once in a while you will figure it out you always do thanks for the videos following the saga
Hey Sam. Thanks again !
Bad Gas Dude!
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Bad gas? Are you talkin bout me or the motor! Hahaha! Thanks again !
You mention that the bottom carb is not pulling as hard as the top, Looked like you were noticing some splash back on the airbox cover toward the end of the video. Might be another symptom of that reed with light showing through the bottom intake causing that issue. For trouble shooting purposes are you able to swap those two reed cages around to see if the carbs pull differently? if not how about the leaf valve it's self?
Hey Al. Originally its been the top cylinder with less pull. I think after I swapped the carb linkage rod for the shorter one it was holding the top carb open just a hair more causing it to pull a little harder then the bottom and I may have not resynced them yet. Anyway, I appreciate how observant you are, wish everybody was like that! And yes I was looking at the box cover, splashback seems a bit harsh, I would call it a light mist, Hahaha. Nothing unusual for a two stroke. I dont think I've ever seen one that had a bone dry silencer cover. And the lovely reed, with the hairline of sunlight showing through. Haha Yes, I could have swapped or corrected it, which your not suppose to do, so they say. I've done it a few times with no problems, bent/corrected it I mean. But on much worse valves then that one, and more than just one hanging open and I mean hanging to where fuel was spitting out the carb! So long story short, after doing the blow back test, carbs on and carbs off, I just didn't feel it was necessary to mess with it. Could it have been the reason for the bottom carb pulling slightly more, maybe. But those carbs are set to idle at closed butterflies. Running them one cylinder at at time the top carb couldn't keep up, at idle or at advanced throttle. In my opinion, it was running to different to blame it on the one bottom reed being slightly open. I guess the long story short just got long again! Hahaha Anyway I dont know if you've been following or just tuned in on this episode. It's a lot to deal with when all these different things start to happen at the same time. Started with a slight hesitation and slowly progressed to this over a couple weeks. And to top it off, we caught a guy stealing parts off it last night. Got my brand new omc coils and was trying to get my battery. Unbelievable ! Stay tuned for that! Thanks again !
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 Thanks for the reply. I've been watching the whole series. Along with the others over the past few yrs. I enjoy the channel very much and look forward to each episode. Keep at it, you'll figure it out. Sorry to hear about thieves, I have no patience for them.
It’s the real life saga, baby!!!!
Hahaha. Yeah Baby ! Thanks again for tuning in!
Did you do a vacuum test yet ? On the carbs and block ? I’m still thinking lower crank seal or fuel pump diaphragm failure and fuel is being sucked into the block from the backside of pump . It looked like a hose wasn’t connected laying in the pan ? Just my thoughts !
Dont have the tools for a vacuum test other then my hand held up to the carb. Hahaha It's called old school vacuum test! Hahaha Thanks again !
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 I think mine cost me $40 ( cone style sync and vacuum ) !
feel your pain. had a 70s 50hp electric shift at the shop, was running one 1 cyl, ive been on cdi tech line confirming my dva tests over and over - stator kicks 185v disconnected. throw on a pack - 0.5v. 3 packs in a row now. its a joke!
Wow! Thanks for tuning in. It will drive you krazy! Thanks again & Stay tuned !
You will get it sorted out soon enough!
Hey. Thanks again for tuning in. I hope so! Stay tuned !
It sounds like the throttle cable on the motor the dial needs to be turned a couple turns it’s stalling when going into neutral. The rpms drop to fast causing it to stall. Check to see if the screw holding the cable mounts to the motor are tight and the black dials are adjusted good.
Hey. Thanks for watching and commenting. Will do! Stay tuned !
There were issues with the intake gaskets leaking on those motors.OMC’s solution was to double gasket the intake.
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Yeah I threw some sealer on it. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
Is that 30 hp to
finally , been waiting , great videos
Thanks for tuning in!
It would be nice to have a timing light attached when it revs up to see if it is spark advancing or fuel air related? Hang in there you will figure it out you always do 👍
Hey. Thanks for watching and commenting. Really appreciate it. Stay tuned !
My heart broke when i saw you grab the ore :( I’m so sorry...
Hahaha. So did mine! Thanks again for tuning in!
It's too rich is why you're having to give it air to get it to restart.....check the float levels in the carbs. People love dicking around with those and getting the height wrong.
I bought the Johnson version or this new in 1978 and still have it. Still runs great.
Hey. Thanks for watching and commenting. I've been through the carbs a couple of times. Just did a carb swap on the top cylinder with no change. Anyway, just caught a guy stealing my new coils and going for the battery when I got there. He was in a boat and took off. We raced to catch him at the ramp but he was gone. The guys fishing there at the ramp, said he left in a big hurry. He had his buddies waiting for him with the trailer. F***ing Bastard. Totally planned out. He probably watches my videos. I'll catch up with you later. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
Those problems never end man! I’am having problem with my evinrude 60 hp not idling so I can shift gears before it dies, i’am rebuilding the carbs and the reeds seem ok, just trying to get it to idle so I can shift the dam gears!! Just hoping that fixes the problem. Otherwise it runs great!
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Yeah these things can be a real pain in the azz sometimes. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
Both lower driveshaft bearings are SHOT, both show the light brown overheating color.
u can hear them go clunck when you turn motor by hand.
i had the exact same thing with a 3 cil 60 horse.
It too had good compression, but it ran real rowdy and stalled with idle
that motor ur trying to fix...has one leg in outboard heaven
VRO gets them every time
Hey. Thanks for watching and commenting. Really appreciate it. Stay tuned !
Alright I have it figured out since I actually seen and heard it good.
Disconnect your solenoid when it’s doing this and I bet you a dollar it won’t do it again. It sounds like the solenoid for the choke is being activated causing the rpms to jump up it also sounds like it’s popping into gear when the rpms are reaving up. I guarantee you the solenoid is causing more gas to be pulled into the motor when this is happening. Could be something in your remote. Wish I was there to help with it buddy. Good luck
That motor shouldn't have a primary on those cars
Primer on the carbs.
what primer? this has choke plates! primer didn't start till 84'
Hey. Thanks for the tip! But the 79 is still manual choke butterflies, although it does have a solenoid to activate them with a key push. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
@@ct1762 I was referring to the solenoid that pulls the choke in. I get my words confused sometimes.
It seemed a bit stiff when turning by hand. A great quicky field test for the condition of any outboard is to, with it in neutral, plugs in, spin the flywheel by hand. just the partial turn in between compressions. It should spin freely, silky smooth. With a quick snap spin and release, it should bounce back off of compression. With good bearings and cylinders, You can easily feel the momentary pulse of the magnets in the flywheel as they pass, if equipped.....How did that fuel pump check out? Good luck.
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. There was a part of the video where I did something similar but using the starter, but it got edited out. I was showing how the piston bounces back and seems to end up in the same position. Kind of the same thing. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
Yes sir I would like to get ahold of you because my motor jump timing and I've been watching your videos and I can't comprehend it I want to see if you have fix it for me
Hey. What kind of motor do you have? Thanks for watching and commenting. Really appreciate it. Stay tuned !
Damn. I wish I had the magic solution, but there’s lots of “can be’s” with the way it’s running. If it’s racing out of control it must be getting excessive fuel or air to raise the RPM above idle. I know two strokes are finicky about case leaks and seal leaks. I’d just go back and look at everything again warm and hot. Maybe even check for leaks under a vacuum rather then pressure. I’m gonna have a talk with those outboard gods! They need to knock this $hit off and help you figure this one out!
Hahaha. Thanks ! Yeah they must not be listening to me. Thanks again !
i have a 75 40hp that im fighting a lean sneeze with, only the bottom cylinder. in my readings, ive learned burnt piston skirts can cause issues. i did too find the reed assembly was a lil wet where it shouldnt have been. have yet to put parts at it but see where were at after that i guess. not sure if it can be done on an outboard, but on 2 stroke bikes, people do leakdown tests, pressureize the crankcase to determine if theres a leak.
its driving me nuts too, sometimes it will idle okay, sometimes it coughs like crazy, runs like a friggen top anywhere besides idle
Hey. Yes it can be done. Thanks for watching and commenting. Really appreciate it. Stay tuned !
It sounds like it's leaning out after a hard run. I would almost think the fuel pump may not be keeping up and it leans out for a second until the fuel fills the carbs??
Hey. Thanks for watching and commenting. Yeah its funny how that just started happening. That pump was on the 40hp I'm gonna swap it out and see what happens. Thanks again and stay tuned !
Check compression while it's hot. Might be a head gasket. Leaking after it warms up.
Hey. Ok I'll check that out. Thanks again for tuning in!
Sorry it is giving problems.. I had 25 do that had a scratch on exhaust side of piston where you could not see. Finally went .20 over and board it out.
Hey Mark. Thanks for tuning in! Wow never had a problem like that. I guess anything is possible. Thanks again & Stay tuned for the next episode!
Do you fix the problem I have the same problem in a evinrude 1988 50 hp...any tips can help me thanks ..
Hey. I tore it apart. Could'nt find anything wrong other than that hairline crack. It's all in the videos. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
Thank you sir..
I will suggest to check for a crack in you fuel pump. Those plastic parts are notorious for cracking. That will cause an intermittent air leak
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Yeah its new but I'm gonna double check it! Thanks again & Stay tuned !
Possible weak fuel pump not pumping enough to keep it running at idle.
Yep. Thanks for tuning in!
I think you have a nettle valve sticking. They sometimes look good but aren't. They stick momentarily at the top. Mite be worth a try
Hey. Thanks for watching and commenting. Really appreciate it. Stay tuned !
take off the flywheel and check the sensor coil inner magnet... might have shifted, and of course the key while your in there. you can try the flywheel from the 40hp, just make sure to lap the tapers. also, i'd check the idle timing... should be i think 0-4 degrees btdc, whatever the manual says. should help the starting issue if its like 6 or 8 btdc now
Hey. The stator is all one piece, you know with everything encased in a mold type stuff. So no separate parts under there. The key and groove are in great shape and Idle timing is 3 +/- 1. 40 was sold weeks ago. Thanks again Bro! Stay tuned !
Any chance your timing arm could be sticking after you pull the throttle to idle? I had one doing that and the grease was old and sticky and the timing arm was really slow about coming back to the stop
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Yeah it sticks a little bit. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 always never miss a video I'm always tinkering with boats and need all the help I can get lol
Giving up is hard to do my man.
Never! Hahaha. Thanks again for tuning in!
could it be air bubbles forming in the lines just after a run at the carbs and causing a lean condition momentarily?
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. I don't have a clue! Hahaha. But I'm gonna figure it out. Thanks again and Stay tuned !
I think your running lean on fuel. When you run your fuel level is dropping in the bowl and the carbs can deliver more fuel to the engine. In gear there is not enough fuel to keep her running at high rpm. I like your video. Check the float levels on the carbs and look for anything that could cause a restriction. Fuel pump could be suspect as well. Remember lean is mean.
Hey. Yeah it's crazy. Thanks again for watching and commenting. Stay tuned !
At this point you have to be thinking something under the flywheel isn’t working out so well, a lose screw or key way to small something is moving around. Some times walking away from it for a bit helps me get a clear head as to what it’s trying to tell me. I know you will figure it out. If not I just watch some of your videos 😂.
Hey. Yeah. Time to take a break. I've got some work projects coming up anyway. Thanks again !
Primer selinoid I had my 28 doing that
Hey. Thanks for watching and commenting. There is no primer. The 79 is still manual choke. Although there is a solenoid that closes them with the key push. Really appreciate it. Stay tuned !
I thank u still dealing with a seal issue but hell if I know wat happened there at the end no gas 😁
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Plenty of gas! What happened is still yet to be determined! So Stay tuned !
I have two ideas . sure acts like its got a bad crank seal with that hard starting . and or a weak coil
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Yeah I'll be checking everything out. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
Tank vent???
Hey Thanks for tuning in! I've eliminated any problems with the the tank/fuel line/vent/primer bulb a few episodes back. It's been good ever since. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 I seen that lol, always fun to watch!
i think an electric component is breaking down when she gets hot
Maybe...
Hey. Thanks for watching and commenting. She's talking to u 2! Really appreciate it. Stay tuned !
Check fuel pump??
All Good! Thanks again !
That noise is a bad bearing in the starter.
Hey George. Thanks for tuning in. Yeah wasnt sure if that was the starter or a reed valve honking at me. Finally figured it out. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
sounds like a fuel problem , 2 stroke love any over amount of fuel when cold , when they are at running temperature they need their air/fuel cocktail exactly as it should be to run smooth , open reed valves no good , you should not see light true the reeds , clean that over yeared gooky sealant off ,replace gasket with original , fix the reed , swap out or replace , when you back off the throttle the butterflies should disengage evenly ,but youre engine still gets fuel or fuel vapor after you disengage , when you disengage the timing also disengages , when engine is at running temperature it will get to much fuel to even run stationary , so much fuel so little air the idle lever opens butterflies allowing air to yoin flooded engine so it starts and reves up burning all that excessive fuel as soon you take away the air (idle lever back down)engine floods , the reeds are just as important as a good fuel pump , the electronic going bad when on running temperature is almost impossible , either it works or it don't work (marine outboards) thats how they build them , exeptions like , i own a 2009 yamaha 2 stroke 85 hp it has a cdi that has limp mode when cdi goes bad you can still limp home , great videos enjoy watching them and shared my though
Hey. Thanks for watching and commenting. Really appreciate it. Stay tuned !
I agree with MegaSensimila's comment about the gooky sealant, and the bad reed. Those need to be fixed first. That reed that was showing light through on the bottom intake is an issue. TOO noticed a difference in how the bottom carb was pulling compared to the top carb. Leaky reed will allow fuel backwash into the carb making it possibly pool up and maybe causing those hi rev episodes. Another symptom of a bad reed is hard starting and a bog, It's possible you may see some fuel spraying onto the front of that air box when the reeds are not working correctly. Dangar Marine explains the concept of how they work here ua-cam.com/video/a-l1WqKaPVI/v-deo.html
Time for a old man nap 👍
Hahahahaa LMFAO! Your Right! Thanks again for watching & Stay tuned !
Sounds like its scraping in there lol.
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. No scraping Hahaha! Thats just high compression pushing through. 170 psi on both cylinders. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
NICE HAT
Thanks !
"MRS EVINRUDE" hahaha😂😅
Hey. Thanks for watching and commenting. Really appreciate it. Stay tuned !
My opinion put a tach on the dash see her rpms are with different props 😉 she could be loading up on you Test different props ? Had a 76 115 Omc that had us frustrated till we started to see her RPM ratio from full throttle take off to max speed did we found a balance in both ; never looked back she came out the hole well got on plane fast but just lost 2mph
Hey. Thanks for tuning in!. And thanks for the advice. Really appreciate it. Stay tuned !
Sounds like crank seals maybe change carbs bunk auto n small eng
Hey. Thanks for tuning in!
And IGN coil es going bad as gets warmer
Hey. Thanks for tuning in!
my 1977 55hp Evy has 120 and 90 compression...:(
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Maybe the rings are stuck on that piston. Try soaking it for a few days. There's all kinds of recipes out there for loosening stuck rings. Look some up, you may have to try a couple of different ones to see what works. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
You need to richen up your mixture screws alittle
Hey. Thanks for watching and commenting.There are 0 adjustments on these carbs. It's all fixed orifices/jets. Really appreciate it. Stay tuned !
Front of carb top slotted screw is your idle mixture screws
@@stevejones9832 No
Poor idle , hard cold starting , lack of power is worn piston skirts.
For the reed valves to be bad they have to blow gas back out of the carburetors
Leads to lack of primary compression
Hey John. Long time. Yes, I know. Power has never been the problem. It runs like champ. Started with a slight hesitation and progressed into hard start/poor idle within a couple weeks, cold and/or hot. Went after the fuel system first, got down to the reeds, no spitting out, carbs on or off. Isn't excessive smoking also a sign of worn skirts? I also thought it was strange when I took the reeds off, the crank and rod/caps were very dry and very clean. Not oily. Is there a way water could be entering the case? Bearings still sound good. Anyway just a slight setback here. Caught an asshole stealing parts off the 55 last night, he got my new set of omc coils and was going after my battery when I caught him. he took off and we tried to catch him at the ramp. The guys fishing there told us we just missed him. He had another guy waiting at the ramp with the trailer ready to go. It was totally planned out. F***ing Prick
It's not the needle it's not the float I want to say it may be a bad trigger but if it was a bad trigger then why are you able to get up top speed but you never know just might be the trigger
You may be right! And I'm gonna find out! Hahaha Stay tuned !
Maybe it'd run better if you had it painted up.
Hahaha. Maybe!
Acts like crank seals
Hey Dan. Thanks for tuning in! Yeah I'm gonna replace it. So Stay tuned ! Thanks again.
I had a motor that was doing something similar to that. I had to choke it to get it to start and it wouldn't idle for crap. But I had just rebuilt the motor and it was running super fantastic then it was not. Turns out the flywheel key was sheared and it was built with what is known as wasted spark which means both spark plugs always fired together so it could run with the flywheel 180 degrees from where it should be but it ran crappy like I said. I must have pulled those carbs apart 10 times. May not be your problem but what if it is.
Here is a good test to see if top crank seal is leaking. ua-cam.com/video/AWuRd7yjHlQ/v-deo.html
Hey. Thanks for watching and commenting. I'm just gonna swap the seal out, there cheap and easy to replace. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
Did you ever swap out the coils and pack ????? Do that simple enough before you drive yourself crazy, LOLLL... eliminate that possibility my friend first then move on only my take on it.....GP
Hey. No I haven't put the new OMC coils in yet. I want to be sure there's nothing burning up my coils first, after what happened with that new aftermarket coil. I mean aftermarket is aftermarket but I've never burned one up. P-pack may be an issue. haven't gotten that far yet but something is going on. Thanks again for tuning in!
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 Nothing
Nothing worse than trying to start a slightly flooded motor thats dropping a cylinder intermittently after she run a little and got hot when you dont know it, HA! Those 55 dont run good on one cylinder hard starting etc. I hate going threw that thinking its this, then that, then this syndrome too, LOL .Anyway youll figure it out again these are old engines with sometimes multiple issues especially the 40HP and up & bigger guys loaded with problems sometimes as you know....Good Luck! ..GP
oil the starter
Yeah. I was about to oil it with a sledge hammer ! Hahaha Thanks again for tuning in!
She's being hateful
Like an ex wife!
@@centralcoastcamper9631 🤣🤣🤣🤣🙄
Hahaha! Hey. Thanks for watching and commenting. Really appreciate it. Stay tuned !
TOO stop looking at the motor and start looking at the control box. You keep saying that fast start lever lol that actually might be the issues especially if it's the old johnson control box.
Yes! I agree. Thanks again for tuning in!
I agree as well
55 hp??..maybe 5.5..
Yeah a 5.5 that pushes my Starcraft 34 mph! Hahaha SI!
Maybe you have some bad gas???????
Hahaha. What's up DB. The Feds still haven't picked you up yet. Hahaha I keep telling them where your at! Haha Thanks again for tuning in! No on the gas, I'm sure I've probably pumped 10 gallons through that thing by now. Thanks again & Stay tuned for the next episode!
I’m no outboard Mechanic by far but I had a similar problem with my evenrude 175 and it turned out as a slight leak in the fuel line and slowly dropping the prime ....
@@poweredparachute1 Hey Robert. Thanks for tuning in and commenting. Yeah the tank/fuel line/primer bulb was the first thing I went after and eliminated. That was a few vids back. Everythings been good in that department since. Anyway just caught a dude stealing parts off the 55 at the dock. He was going for my battery when I walked up on him. he took off and we tried to catch him at the ramp. the guys fishing there saw him and said he left in a big hurry. he had his buddies waiting for him with the trailer. so it was all planned out. he did get away with my new omc coils. F***ing Prick! Thanks again for tuning in!
It’s a dam sham when people pinch stuff . I’m working on the evinrude 175 6 cylinder ATM and I’m having sneezing problem only just when the engine is dead cold for about first 3 minutes then it cleans it self out ( it’s got me beat) When it runs and idle fine and when start up even if it sits for 20 minutes and starts it’s works fine but dead cold it’s a bitch .... lol
@@poweredparachute1 Yeah I've had that happen before with 25 hp motors. Sometimes it takes awhile for them to clear their throats!
Bottm
Thanks for tuning in!