I clip the legs on the under board and then suck the solder from the anchors, then shield and hot air on the port side for removal. I haven't needed the low melt solder thus far.
You should switch to a flat tip for your iron rather than using the small, curved tip. It distributes heat to a wider area of the solder pad and makes reflow easier. You could also try to wick solder off the pads and out of the holes before using the hot air tool so theres less solder mass to heat and reflow. Also, if yoh use a piece of kapton tape to hold the new connector exactly where you need it, you'll have a much easier time soldering it in place.
@@HectorNector_22 easy really. I just used a jewellers screwdriver in between the port and board adding some pressure as I heated up the anchor points. It's not pretty coming off, but easy enough. Loads of people don't have hot air stations, don't worry. Just take your time and be careful not to lift any tracks.
I just finished the mod. I didn't have heat gun, but with (improvised) braid and bit of patience i desoldered original port without much effort. It's amazing, now i don't need this weird nintendo charger!
For the part starting at 3:09, couldn't you instead just use the wick to absorb all the solder once you've gotten it melted? Why go through the extra step of heating with the air for a really long time, which also seems to damage the board a bit and could melt those important components?
I did try this and I did get it to work. Though it took a LOT of finangling to get it off. I believe it may be easier with a desolder gun to completely remove the solder from the joints, but both using a hot air gun and using a solder wick are pretty risky in my book.
Okay I followed the instructions as well as the instructions from the other videos but the light doesnt turn on when i put in a USB-C cable. I read that The USB-C to USB-A cables work but The USB-C to USB-C don't. I tried both and turned the cables upside down What, still no orange light is lighting up indicating that it's charging. What am I doing wrong?
“Advanced process.” I got a soldering station of Amazon that included all the supplies and did this as my first soldering job along with a save batteries for a a few games. Didn’t rip any pad or mess up the board. Don’t get me wrong it was tricky because everything is so damn small, but got it in there and it charges and my audio works with both in the console and with headphones. (Patting self on back). 😂
I’ve considered using a heat gun for other mods (i.e. GBAccelerator, to remove the X1 crystal before installing), but others have told me using a heat gun on PCBs with components this small is dangerous. Seeing it used for this mod makes me feel a bit better, since it looks like it didn’t mess up nearby components like the EM8 chip at all. Would that EM8 chip become useless if I keep the heat gun on that general area for too long? Going to try this mod soon but given the price of used GBA SPs and PCBs I don’t wanna mess up
Heat guns can cause damage if you don't have your settings set correctly, but generally you should be okay to use hot air on components. If your hot air station has air speed settings, etc. I would keep them low as not to move around other components. You shouldn't damage any components if you keep the heat moving at all times, holding it in one area is usually what leads to damage. - Jaden
I always look at this type of stuff and think its super hard, then i remember that ive actually done simular stuff, so i can probably do it myself, if i upgrade my soldering iron first
I don't understand how the sound comes into the jack if the pin that gives the sound isn't directly soldered to it, only the vcc is. how is the sound going to the jack?
You might have figured this out by now but this mod only does charging. No Audio through the usb-c. There's other usb-c mods that allow audio but this mod is easier for people who don't care about audio
So I did this with a soldering iron and lifted the back 2 pads, it charges just fine but audio doesn’t work, and the screen seems off for some reason, any advice or help?
Both should work but in my experience it’s more easy to remove little amounts of solder with solder wick. Best you could use is a electronic desoldering gun, if you have some spare money. They are kinda expensive but definitely a gamechanger for anyone who works on small electronics :)
@@HandHeldLegend I managed it! Took me what felt like an eternity using a solder sucker, desoldering wick and carefully wiggling it with tweezers, no pads lifted thankfully 😅
@@MrOtanein I have also completely screwed this up trying to use just a solder iron. Tried it again on another board with a heat gun and a ton of flux and it came off niiiiiiiiiiice and easy.
I installed this yesterday and it charges and everything correctly but now the speaker intermittently doesn't work. Is there anything around the port that would affect the speaker?
Literally did this for the first time yesterday for a customer lol
I've always wondered what do you need to study in order to make this kind of mods, it looks so cool.
Good stuff
I clip the legs on the under board and then suck the solder from the anchors, then shield and hot air on the port side for removal. I haven't needed the low melt solder thus far.
You should switch to a flat tip for your iron rather than using the small, curved tip. It distributes heat to a wider area of the solder pad and makes reflow easier. You could also try to wick solder off the pads and out of the holes before using the hot air tool so theres less solder mass to heat and reflow. Also, if yoh use a piece of kapton tape to hold the new connector exactly where you need it, you'll have a much easier time soldering it in place.
Thanks for the video..
I managed to complete this mod today thanks to you. And though I only had an iron and no air gun, everything went smoothly 👍
How was it not using hot air every video I've seen uses it but I don't have one either
@@HectorNector_22 easy really. I just used a jewellers screwdriver in between the port and board adding some pressure as I heated up the anchor points. It's not pretty coming off, but easy enough. Loads of people don't have hot air stations, don't worry. Just take your time and be careful not to lift any tracks.
I feel like I can handle this type of mod. Great video. I feel like you explained it very well
Thanks yall. Made me a bit more comfortable
I just finished the mod. I didn't have heat gun, but with (improvised) braid and bit of patience i desoldered original port without much effort. It's amazing, now i don't need this weird nintendo charger!
For the part starting at 3:09, couldn't you instead just use the wick to absorb all the solder once you've gotten it melted? Why go through the extra step of heating with the air for a really long time, which also seems to damage the board a bit and could melt those important components?
Have you tried it yet? I haven't ordered it yet but if it's a better alternative I just might do that
probably run a bigger risk of lifting one of the pads off
Could also try a solder sucker idk
I did try this and I did get it to work. Though it took a LOT of finangling to get it off. I believe it may be easier with a desolder gun to completely remove the solder from the joints, but both using a hot air gun and using a solder wick are pretty risky in my book.
Would desolder gun be better for this than a desolderbraid?
Okay I followed the instructions as well as the instructions from the other videos but the light doesnt turn on when i put in a USB-C cable. I read that The USB-C to USB-A cables work but The USB-C to USB-C don't. I tried both and turned the cables upside down What, still no orange light is lighting up indicating that it's charging. What am I doing wrong?
Any clue where I can pay for this service? I have done some very basic soldering mods on my GB and GBA but this looks too tough. 😒
“Advanced process.” I got a soldering station of Amazon that included all the supplies and did this as my first soldering job along with a save batteries for a a few games. Didn’t rip any pad or mess up the board. Don’t get me wrong it was tricky because everything is so damn small, but got it in there and it charges and my audio works with both in the console and with headphones. (Patting self on back). 😂
Fantastic. Thanks for the video. This is exactly what I was looking for.
Such an amazing job. An artisan
Isn't the charging port of the gba sp supposed to act as a port for the link cable too? Does this mod removes this functionality?
Lost my C56 cap when doing this. Everything seems to work fine. Waiting on replacement cap to come in.
I’ve considered using a heat gun for other mods (i.e. GBAccelerator, to remove the X1 crystal before installing), but others have told me using a heat gun on PCBs with components this small is dangerous. Seeing it used for this mod makes me feel a bit better, since it looks like it didn’t mess up nearby components like the EM8 chip at all. Would that EM8 chip become useless if I keep the heat gun on that general area for too long? Going to try this mod soon but given the price of used GBA SPs and PCBs I don’t wanna mess up
Heat guns can cause damage if you don't have your settings set correctly, but generally you should be okay to use hot air on components. If your hot air station has air speed settings, etc. I would keep them low as not to move around other components. You shouldn't damage any components if you keep the heat moving at all times, holding it in one area is usually what leads to damage. - Jaden
@@HandHeldLegend Very pertinent points. Proper shielding is a must along with all the points you conveyed. Cheers!
I always look at this type of stuff and think its super hard, then i remember that ive actually done simular stuff, so i can probably do it myself, if i upgrade my soldering iron first
If one if the compactors were to get brushed off like the one that connects to P3. If that even possible to be fix?
Anyone know if high amp USB c chargers are okay to charge with this setup?
I don't understand how the sound comes into the jack if the pin that gives the sound isn't directly soldered to it, only the vcc is. how is the sound going to the jack?
You might have figured this out by now but this mod only does charging. No Audio through the usb-c. There's other usb-c mods that allow audio but this mod is easier for people who don't care about audio
Will you be making Neo Geo Pocket Color battery covers soon? Any chance of a replacement Game Gear screen for later model systems?
1:25 i blew at the screen 😂
Will this mod work if the EM8 on the motherboard is missing?
Hi. Which solder do you use? Which reference please?
try to use lead free solder as it is less toxic
So I did this with a soldering iron and lifted the back 2 pads, it charges just fine but audio doesn’t work, and the screen seems off for some reason, any advice or help?
This mod only does changeing no audio. Might be able to wire it in manually. Would need to verify the pinout.
Do you need solder wick or can you use a desoldering pump?
Both should work but in my experience it’s more easy to remove little amounts of solder with solder wick. Best you could use is a electronic desoldering gun, if you have some spare money. They are kinda expensive but definitely a gamechanger for anyone who works on small electronics :)
What would be the best way to remove the original port without a heat gun? I’ve only got a soldering iron to hand.
We don't recommend attempting to take off the original port without a hot air gun, the chances of damaging the charging circuit are quite high.
@@HandHeldLegend I managed it! Took me what felt like an eternity using a solder sucker, desoldering wick and carefully wiggling it with tweezers, no pads lifted thankfully 😅
@@HandHeldLegend I have to confirm this 😢 Tried to do mine with a soldering iron and killed the pads…
@@MrOtanein I have also completely screwed this up trying to use just a solder iron. Tried it again on another board with a heat gun and a ton of flux and it came off niiiiiiiiiiice and easy.
Could you use a USB C to 3.5mm adapter for headphones or does that make it essential to do a headphone jack mod?
This is on the charging port, I doubt you'd hear much!
This mod definitely kills head phone jack compatible for the charging connector
The origanal changing port is also the audio out. This mod only does the changing. They do have mods that do both.
I installed this yesterday and it charges and everything correctly but now the speaker intermittently doesn't work. Is there anything around the port that would affect the speaker?
Have the same issue, as well as the screen being slightly off, I don’t know why either, if you figure it out, I’d appreciate it if you let me know
Check for solder balls. That or metal flakes are the biggest cause for intermittent issues
What does it mean if the you add the battery back, Orange light turns on for a second then turns off?
When that happens the circuit is not complete somewhere. It sends, thus the light comes on, but does not complete and the light goes off.
Charging light turns on and then off. Why?
No battery installed.
What does it mean if the orange light stays on with no battery connected?
It probably just means the SP can run without a battery. Makes sense in a handheld that usually was in kiosks and stuff.
What flux do you use?
Personally I use ChipQuik SMD-291, however pretty much any flux should work (excluding plumbing flux) - Jaden
Welp, my sp is now a paperweight.
back yard scientist?
Is 91% alcohol fine?
Yup, that'll do the trick!