Brings back so many memories Vince! Been really ill this past few years, and had to retire from the Emergency Services after 33 years, but had some electrical background before joining. So setting the garage up and sorting some old kit out left in loft, the wife now understands why men hoard stuff lol. My parents have their old clock, which stopped working (1974), so first thing to sort.
A lot of times with the harder plastics like that little black piece that you were trying to glue back on. I use the PVC/ABS Glue for pipes and plumbing because it melts it just a little bit and then sticks. It doesn’t work on everything but it sure come in handy fixing a lot of things for me.
Hi Vince ! Just a quick comment to let you know that I do enjoy very much the type of smooth music you use during your videos. SOme nice classical pieces. Really helps staying calm while trying the items at the vcery same that you do !!!! Greetings from Canada . 🙂
You could align the alarm dial with the numbers by removing the clear screen part of the clock. Hold the big black dial on the side of the clock in place with one hand and forcible move the numbers dial with your finger of the other hand. It seems to be only a snug fit on round white part of the quartz clock mechanism. A little dab of wd-40 on the round white bit may help with the forced rotation of the dial.
I Think you did a great job on this one! When you found out the fault being that broken plastic piece, I was going like: "Oh God, he will not be able to fix this.", beacuse I once had a similar flip clock and I remember that quite alot of force was required to turn the mechanism. But you managed to fix it, wonderful!! And just for your information: the vintage flip clocks used to work based on an AC motor that was synchronized by the frequency of the AC power (50 or 60 Hz); those clocks also had another way of flipping the hours. If I am not mistaken, the hours also turned together with the minutes (but slower like the hour hand on a normal clock also turns slower than the minute hand) and then there was a mechanism to prevent an hour card from flipping over as long as the minutes were not past 59... I'm not sure how they did that, but those kind of flip clocks don't make that loud clicking noise when the hours flip over. As soon as my vintage flip clock brakes, I am going to explore it and see how things exactly work; but right now, it works like brand new. :-)
I like your videos, you always get sure to understand how it works before you repair it. Now one trick for the future repairs - If you need strong glue get double component type of glue, like JB weld. You can actually build up parts just from glue with JB, like 3d printing by hand. Use the classic product formula.
square pencils are square so that they do not roll off the desk or table or roll off your piece of lumber if used oon a building side, we have similar pencils here in Canada and you see them often at the big box building shops/stores ...
Really nice Vince :D You are starting to remember me a repair shop that was near my house when I was a kid, an old man that repaired anything that you got broken: radios, tv's, bikes, washing machines... Is good to see someone that doesn't fears to try repair anything.
What I do when repairing axles like that is take a thin drill bit (Google pin vise) and drill a hole, glue a piano wire of the same size as the hole in it and simply repeat the process for the other part. The first part of this could've even be done with the whole gear assembly apart so it would be easier to work with, assemble the gear and then just glue the last bit onto the protruding wire. For increased strength, nick the wire in a few places so that the glue has more to grip on.
Vince you git, I'm now £9 poorer as a result of your blatent advert for Argos there lol. Great fix and thanks for the heads up, I've been after a flip clock for ages and I now know how to fix it when the Bush Chinesium plastic inevitably breaks!
Frustratingly brilliant. Really enjoyed your determination Vince. I was going to run out an buy one for £8 but in light of how annoying that alarm would be I’m going to pass 😂
Thanks for this, I broke one of the digits by turning the alarm the wrong way but it's working fine now. Have also had this a year and now know there's a light!
I watched a guy fix an older one of these a while back with super glue and baking soda to build up a completely new piece..Seemed to work fine so might be something to think about trying in the future for broken or missing plastic parts.
I think the earlier comment was right - the pin broke because the adjuster was turned the incorrect way - and the reason you couldnt feel the 'home' for the broken surfaces was because when you twist break plastic like that it distorts and doesnt snap identically either side.
For the broken piece if you have small enough drill bits, you could drill a pilot hole wide enough to have a screw head into the plastic, the centre of that drill a finer hole to take the thread of a screw and drill a similar hole in the spindle shaft then screw together with a suitable plastic self tapper. If you add a smidgen of epoxy to the mating faces that shaft will never break again.
long shot but ive fixed similar things by drilling through from the outside and carefully letting a screw make its own thread the other side. Bit of super glue on the way in helps loads. Have also just roughed up a small bit cut off a fishing hook shank, roughed it up with some sand paper and glued that in too.
Maybe you should adjust the alarm another way... if its only out by 15 minutes... carefully adjust the flip minutes in reverse (manually), and leave the alarm alone? i.e. if the time says 3:30 - reverse the flip minutes so it says 3:15 (leaving the alarm dial alone - you probably need to carefully remove the bar so the minutes can go in reverse). Then you know it should be sync'd. Great job and very interesting to watch!
@My Mate VINCE if that's just a regular clock mechanism then i believe the bit that broke push's in as if it would be the second hand that way all the gears would be assembled first and the bit that broke went on last sorry if this is confusing
Just a Tip here Vince, A tip with regards to "Plastic Axle" components that need to be joined back together, My tip is... Don't use glue, But rather a staple, staples come in various sizes, and the beauty of staples are their somewhat flat shape.. Anyway long story short, A staple can be cut and then an end heated up and embedded into one end of the broken axle and then once deep enough trimmed and then the other end heated up and then married to marry the axle whole again, just a word of warning here, Too hot and the plastic can boil to a sloppy mess, also if the staple is not hot enough the staple wont embed deep enough to tie the axle together to the right length, therefore a fine tipped Hot air using a hot air work station is a must, don't forget to use capstan "heat shielding tape if at all possible", I also recommend you do some dry runs using sacrificial axles before you jump on in to a repair, using the method of Metal/Plastic Or Nylon Melding, Once mastered to the standards of a craftsman it might make for an interesting How to Video..
hi Vince,i always enjoy your video's,its very informative and fun,only listen to ur video's i hear a zoom,its a bit annoying especially when you listen with headphones,keep up good work,greetings from Holland
Get yourself a pin vice (basically a very small, handheld drill) so that you can drill into the plastic parts and reinforce with a piece of metal or, as someone else commented, a screw. They're only a couple of quid and really useful.
The standard carpenters pencil is squared off in a specific shape to not only prevent it from rolling off but the wider side is one inch and the smaller width is a half inch to help with evenly dividing/spacing wood.
Some are dimensioned 1/2” x 1/4” and possibly a metric version for the UK and Europe. These specific dimensions can be used to produced even spacing between planks on sub flooring, decking and the like.
@@Mymatevince alarm wires...black - ground, red - motor positive, white - trigger out for alarm......this would mean that the alarm works from alarm dial independently of time displayed...therefore the time can be synchronised to the alarm or vice versa.
Use baking powder in combination with super glue to build up a new nodge. Just dip super glue on a non sticky surface and push the knob in, then into the powder, then glue and so on. Afterwards cut the newly build plastic to shape.
Carpenter pencils aren't round, not just to stop them rolling, but the dimensions allow it to be used as a spacer or a scribe. Due to it's larger dimensions it's not only easy to handle, but it can mark rough surfaces such as brick (useful when marking out for fitting joists)...
Is it just me, or have they hidden the snooze button around the back? If they have, I would BE Bill Murray in Groundhog Day, and be smashing the thing up to stop it bleeping lol! Great video Vince :)
If I may make a suggestion when gluing stuff together it is a good idea to take a knife and scratch the two faces you will be gluing together it gives it more surface area to stick together ( I think lol) that or even use a coarse piece of sandpaper. Also great vid :)
Hey Vince nice video as always, i saw alot of comments telling you to heat a needle and stick it in the middle of the axle, maybe put 2 trough the bit that connects to the fliping mechanism that way it will not spin arround on itself, also without the glass part in you could fine tune the alarm (i think) while holding steady the wheel that you set the alarm and turning the indication wheel inside if you understand what i mean... dono if any of this makes sense but just wanted to give you some ideeas aswell :) ... as always love your videos and Good Luck. Bob
Yes Bob, that does make sense. Because it is a friction fit, if you held onto it hard enough then you could rotate the inner axle without the actual Alarm display wheel actually moving, as long as the gears were strong enough and didn't strip themselves. Very good idea :-)
I had a similar flip clock in the 80s, which worked directly on the mains, so there wasn't an external power supply as this one has. It worked very well indeed from what I remember, and was Japanese made.
Awesome!! Ground hog day like clock!!! I wonder if that piece broke off because it was wound the wrong way - maybe there's resistance the other direction? Fantastic ending - you've got an ACTUAL ground hog day alarm clock there - ie. you feel like is ground hog day adjusting that damn alarm over and over to try and make it perfect lol! Did you manage to adjust the 1 minute difference between the hour thing? ie. when it goes to :00 does the hour wrap at the same time, or a few seconds later still? I could imagine waking and looking at the alarm and saying to myself - oh, thank god its 06:00 still, close eyes, go back to sleep, 3 seconds later its 07:00 lol!!!!!!
Haha that would be nasty, an hour just stolen from you. The best feeling is waking up on Saturday and thinking it is Friday...then realising it isn't and staying in bed :-) No it is still 5 to 10 seconds delay before the hour flips, I think that is how it is designed. The gear that changes the time can't be spun the wrong way round as it has a little ratchet thing on it to stop that when fully assembled. The alarm can be spun the wrong way but I can't see why this would cause a problem, the instructions definitely stated not to turn the alarm the wrong way though. Maybe that is how it snapped????? I was thinking after opening it up for the ninth time that it is a similar torture to Groundhog Day. Still didn't get it lined up well enough - still bugging me!!!
For future Repairs try Super Glue and use Bakingsoda like an Activator: The Super Glue is in a few Seconds hard "like Steel" and you can build up the Material. And other Soloution: you can try Acetone for ABS Plastics. It "melt" the ABS so you don´t need a hopeless Try with the Soldering Iron.
The British Rail indicators were called the Solaris and quite an expensive system by the Italian firm of the same name, I remember them installing it in London mainline stations at first and it was a marvel as it could be centrally controlled, train approaching controlled or using a simple interface in the station office locally controlled. Waterloo and Victoria had hugely complex ones but it did mean the old way of using pre-painted slat boards slid into the grooves by very nimble workers, could be done away with. At London Bridge, the Solaris during winter rush hours used to steam like billy-o as they were almost in constant use and the motors would overheat.
Thanks Ian, interesting. Something charming about them isn't there. Has your watch buying/fixing eased off a little bit, or are those Russian watches still tempting you?
If you can peel the alarm decal off its mount you can then spin the time until the alarm goes off then reapply the alarm decal at the appropriate time. You will have to put the clock back together without the clear plastic covering the time to get at the alarm dial, then stick the decal on. You may even have to split the decal into two pieces so that the alarm time is the first part to be applied.
I still have a little orange Philips flipclock from the 70's. Still working fine after 50 years or so. The only sign of age is the light. The lightbulb got weak and only in total dark does it give some light. But not enough to light the display. But that is OK. Maybe someday i,ll replace it. Works perfectly otherwise. Keeping time very well. My all steel Solari C.Udine station flipclock also still works. But the metal plates make such a noise when flipping, that it would keep us awake.
There are gel versions of superglue (31:49). I suggest you use those instead whenever you need to glue small pieces because it won't "drain" into every hole jamming some fine mechanism up
The other thing is the hour flip having a 5 second delay or so. I don't know for sure, but that might be due to the HD-1688 Quartz timer. You ran it, making it go round for testing and seeing what it was doing, before gluing the broken piece back on - and maybe its "out of sync"? You might need to make it do a full rotation (and a teeny TINY bit more) then put the HD-1688 back in. Only issue is, it's a few second delay, and I can see that being a pain to get spot on - so I'd probably leave that one alone personally!
Regaljester75 super glue was invented specifically to hold skin together, it was used on the battlefield so intestines and stuff could be put back inside after being blown apart........
Regaljester75 I've stuck (accidentally) my fingers together more than once while using the glue, I can still remember the wave of panic as to wether or not I can get them unstuck......lol....... Take care n good luck.......
to fix that shaft, since you couldnt drill into it, maybe you couldve used a needle? Heat up the needle to where the plastic will melt so you can insert it. it would make it stronger if that worked I think
Having issues with putting together two small plastic parts I'd suggest pinning them together. This is where you drill small holes in both pieces and put metal pins in the holes. Look up some videos on miniatures and pinning the parts together. That should help you out getting a more solid repair for plastic parts.
if the alarm dial has a printed sticker with the hours marked on it and wrapped around it, then maybe it was stuck on incorrectly in the factory. could you un-peal it and stick it on correctly? without taking it all apart.
I really should take my old digital alarm clock/radio apart and try to fix the switch for the alarm set/radio. It's a bit finicky and doesn't always light the alarm indicator fully. It's probably 10 years old+ at this point and only cost £5 new but worth having a play. Could be a dry solder joint or something.
Greay vid as always. Okay this may seem like a stupid idea but couldn't you set the alarm, ie find out the point where it clicks and the alarm sounds. Then simply change the clock's time to whatever time is displayed that is triggering the alarm. So rather than fiddling with the alarm position you are adjusting the time to match. Now if you set the alarm say for 12 it will trigger at twelve as they both match.
some times you can use a very small drill to drill a hole right through the snapped bit and then glue in a piece of stiff single core wire , i normally put little grooves in the wire with a needle file, so when you glue it in it has something to grip to, a thin resin or super glue depending on material ,
This one is very interesting, as i've always wanted to see the guts of one of these, but knew that I'd likely never get it working again if I took one apart.
Pretty sure you can get a pin drill and go through both plastic parts and then stick a piece of metal down. I also think that lose black gear looked a bit chewed up near the beginning 12:22
I'm sure I still have my vintage flip clock in the attic - I got used to the sound and could tell the time just from the sound of the digits flipping (especially on the hour!). I have Alexa now ...
How to sync up the alarm: Put it together (even without the alarm indicator wheel) , set the time to 12:00 by the time setting, then "adjust the alarm" till it just turns on (observe the correct adjustment direction - the alarm wheel should always go "backwards"), then put on the display wheel at the 1200 position, assemble everything together and you are done. But don't expect much precision, these mechanical alarm clocks were even officially specified (when still made by reputable makers) with +/- 20 minutes or even more (for the alarm to go off) in the manuals. The cheepeese makers make in the best case the same tolerance mechanisms, but don't hesitate to claim "better than 1minute", but that is nonsense...
yes it is push fit ... it was plastic pin but it is broken now. Numbers are attached like hands onto mechanism, yes it is regular clock mechanism. Baking soda + super glue makes it strong as stone! I've rebuild even cogs teeth with this method, its very strong combination on molecular level. Yes there is a medical Super Glue that sticks big cut wounds. I had a treaded wound like that. Alarm is easy to calibrate, just turn the knob until you hear clap and sound, remove batteries from clock and put all hands on 12 including the alarm hand
When you are doing the plastic to plastic I would use a paperclip straight out and heated up and pushed right in the middle till you get it to were you need it m8t
hello, I am from Greece and I have bought for the first time exactly this product, but because I am afraid if the product should be connected to the Greek outlet, could you please answer me 🙏
Carpenter pencils are easier to grip than standard pencils, because they have a larger surface area. and they can fit behind your ear and you can draw a strate line on the floor
It looks as if that little bit was glued on the shaft after the fact. I'm assuming that the cloak motor could be used for many other clocks and therefore is at the helm of the company the uses it for whatever purpose that may be. So it seems like they just added it afterwards 🤷♂️
What I would have done in this situation is to drill a hole down both parts, as large as possible. Then I would have inserted a metal dowel down the center of both, with some epoxy on each. So, instead of just a surface to surface gluing, you'd have alot more surface area and torque available with my method. You always manage to get them fixed, I just figured I'd toss in my 2 cents :) drill both ends, find suitable metal dowel, apply epoxy to the dowel and insert
Super glue was used in Vietnam to seal wounds, the problem being though that the only dissolving agent was acetone and prob extremely painful lol Head wounds I have used as a nurse kinda quick setting epoxy that sets almost like a scab but tougher, we were told to use the glue instead of butterfly strips which were next to useless on hairy heads but the wound not warranting a full suture. One of the most aggravating things is suturing head and brow wounds, the skin is so tight against the bone it is very fiddly :(
for restoring parts that have not enough meat on it, you should try mixing superglue with baking soda. Put a dub of glue on a part, sprinkle baking soda, wait till it's dry and repeat, you should build more and more material with every cycle.
Would it be possible to 3D print out a new part for that Flip Clock, if you had a 3D Printer and Cad-key 586+Dongle you would be able to create the G-code that will let you print out a new part.
there shouldn't be a delay in the alarm going off it should be exactly as the numbers flip over i had one of these for many years i loved watching the numbers turn.
I remember taking apart a multiple cd player radio and couldn't figure out why the cds weren't playing when I put it back together I forgot a metal bracket and some screws and well it started working I have no clue how it got fixed or what was wrong with it but it actually played cds again and let me pick 1-5 depending on what disk I wanted to play
to fix this i would have drilled a hole in the broken of piece and the axel then put a split in it with some glue. I think the way it was made is the broken of piece had a split there was pushed in to the axel.
15min in so don't know result but I'd drill a hole with a small bit through center of broken bit and shaft then run a small metal rod (like paperclip) through it for strength and add epoxy
The rectangular part that you glued, seems to me to have been the head of a "pin" that was glued in the hole for the unused second-hand shaft. I hate glue - preferring a mechanical solution.
Brings back so many memories Vince! Been really ill this past few years, and had to retire from the Emergency Services after 33 years, but had some electrical background before joining. So setting the garage up and sorting some old kit out left in loft, the wife now understands why men hoard stuff lol. My parents have their old clock, which stopped working (1974), so first thing to sort.
Carpenter pencils are not round so they won’t roll off if you were up on a roof or something like that
Couldn't you buy a cylindrical pencil and shave off some of the wood?
@@louistournas120 Yes. Or just buy a square one and use it.
You can also sharpen it in different was for different functions. Scribing on different materials and angles.
Is the correct answer. The lead is also thicker and softer than normal pencils so the marks made with them are more profound.
I had asked my builder friend the same question the other day too and got the same answer. :D
If it involves cogs and motors,Vince is your man......patience of a saint.something I haven’t got-thanks for the video Vince
As someone who as a kid loved taking things apart, I love your channel, thank you so much Vince
This takes me back, I took so many flip clocks apart as a kid, never fixed any just pulled them apart.
Same here lol, and quickly putting the screws back in after every spring bounced off the ceiling, followed by "Wasn't me, just stopped working" 😂
As small tip for the future: use small pin and use the heat of soldering iron to pierce through the plastic. Works always.
I remember my grandparents having the 70s version. It was neat to watch. I was but a very young lad, fond memories lol.
A lot of times with the harder plastics like that little black piece that you were trying to glue back on. I use the PVC/ABS Glue for pipes and plumbing because it melts it just a little bit and then sticks. It doesn’t work on everything but it sure come in handy fixing a lot of things for me.
Hi Vince ! Just a quick comment to let you know that I do enjoy very much the type of smooth music you use during your videos. SOme nice classical pieces. Really helps staying calm while trying the items at the vcery same that you do !!!! Greetings from Canada . 🙂
I love how excited you get Vince! Great vid again as always!
You could align the alarm dial with the numbers by removing the clear screen part of the clock. Hold the big black dial on the side of the clock in place with one hand and forcible move the numbers dial with your finger of the other hand. It seems to be only a snug fit on round white part of the quartz clock mechanism. A little dab of wd-40 on the round white bit may help with the forced rotation of the dial.
I Think you did a great job on this one! When you found out the fault being that broken plastic piece, I was going like: "Oh God, he will not be able to fix this.", beacuse I once had a similar flip clock and I remember that quite alot of force was required to turn the mechanism. But you managed to fix it, wonderful!! And just for your information: the vintage flip clocks used to work based on an AC motor that was synchronized by the frequency of the AC power (50 or 60 Hz); those clocks also had another way of flipping the hours. If I am not mistaken, the hours also turned together with the minutes (but slower like the hour hand on a normal clock also turns slower than the minute hand) and then there was a mechanism to prevent an hour card from flipping over as long as the minutes were not past 59... I'm not sure how they did that, but those kind of flip clocks don't make that loud clicking noise when the hours flip over. As soon as my vintage flip clock brakes, I am going to explore it and see how things exactly work; but right now, it works like brand new. :-)
I like your videos, you always get sure to understand how it works before you repair it. Now one trick for the future repairs - If you need strong glue get double component type of glue, like JB weld. You can actually build up parts just from glue with JB, like 3d printing by hand. Use the classic product formula.
square pencils are square so that they do not roll off the desk or table or roll off your piece of lumber if used oon a building side, we have similar pencils here in Canada and you see them often at the big box building shops/stores ...
Really nice Vince :D
You are starting to remember me a repair shop that was near my house when I was a kid, an old man that repaired anything that you got broken: radios, tv's, bikes, washing machines... Is good to see someone that doesn't fears to try repair anything.
Thanks geniwab :-)
Great video Vince. Love a flip clock. So much nostalgia.
Thanks. They are great :-)
Hi Vince, another great video; you could also try acetone on ABS parts for a chemical weld. Thanks for the content :)
What I do when repairing axles like that is take a thin drill bit (Google pin vise) and drill a hole, glue a piano wire of the same size as the hole in it and simply repeat the process for the other part. The first part of this could've even be done with the whole gear assembly apart so it would be easier to work with, assemble the gear and then just glue the last bit onto the protruding wire. For increased strength, nick the wire in a few places so that the glue has more to grip on.
Great tips, thank you :-)
Vince you git, I'm now £9 poorer as a result of your blatent advert for Argos there lol. Great fix and thanks for the heads up, I've been after a flip clock for ages and I now know how to fix it when the Bush Chinesium plastic inevitably breaks!
Haha, Sorry!!! They should be giving me a cut. Bit of a bargain for £8.99 even with an iffy alarm :-)
Frustratingly brilliant. Really enjoyed your determination Vince.
I was going to run out an buy one for £8 but in light of how annoying that alarm would be I’m going to pass 😂
Thank you Mike, a nice 70's one on your channel would fit nicely...hint hint :-)
Thanks for this, I broke one of the digits by turning the alarm the wrong way but it's working fine now. Have also had this a year and now know there's a light!
I watched a guy fix an older one of these a while back with super glue and baking soda to build up a completely new piece..Seemed to work fine so might be something to think about trying in the future for broken or missing plastic parts.
I think the earlier comment was right - the pin broke because the adjuster was turned the incorrect way - and the reason you couldnt feel the 'home' for the broken surfaces was because when you twist break plastic like that it distorts and doesnt snap identically either side.
For the broken piece if you have small enough drill bits, you could drill a pilot hole wide enough to have a screw head into the plastic, the centre of that drill a finer hole to take the thread of a screw and drill a similar hole in the spindle shaft then screw together with a suitable plastic self tapper. If you add a smidgen of epoxy to the mating faces that shaft will never break again.
long shot but ive fixed similar things by drilling through from the outside and carefully letting a screw make its own thread the other side. Bit of super glue on the way in helps loads. Have also just roughed up a small bit cut off a fishing hook shank, roughed it up with some sand paper and glued that in too.
I have the clock from Back To The Future. It is a Panasonic. We've had that since the 80s.
Maybe you should adjust the alarm another way... if its only out by 15 minutes... carefully adjust the flip minutes in reverse (manually), and leave the alarm alone? i.e. if the time says 3:30 - reverse the flip minutes so it says 3:15 (leaving the alarm dial alone - you probably need to carefully remove the bar so the minutes can go in reverse). Then you know it should be sync'd. Great job and very interesting to watch!
@My Mate VINCE if that's just a regular clock mechanism then i believe the bit that broke push's in as if it would be the second hand that way all the gears would be assembled first and the bit that broke went on last sorry if this is confusing
Thanks. Not confusing at all. Yes apparently the snapped bit is just a push fit into the shaft :-)
Great job vince
Just a Tip here Vince, A tip with regards to "Plastic Axle" components that need to be joined back together, My tip is... Don't use glue, But rather a staple, staples come in various sizes, and the beauty of staples are their somewhat flat shape.. Anyway long story short, A staple can be cut and then an end heated up and embedded into one end of the broken axle and then once deep enough trimmed and then the other end heated up and then married to marry the axle whole again, just a word of warning here, Too hot and the plastic can boil to a sloppy mess, also if the staple is not hot enough the staple wont embed deep enough to tie the axle together to the right length, therefore a fine tipped Hot air using a hot air work station is a must, don't forget to use capstan "heat shielding tape if at all possible", I also recommend you do some dry runs using sacrificial axles before you jump on in to a repair, using the method of Metal/Plastic Or Nylon Melding, Once mastered to the standards of a craftsman it might make for an interesting How to Video..
hi Vince,i always enjoy your video's,its very informative and fun,only listen to ur video's i hear a zoom,its a bit annoying especially when you listen with headphones,keep up good work,greetings from Holland
Hi Vince, why you don't drill 1mm hole inside shaft and find proper screw? You could also add super glue to super strength.
Get yourself a pin vice (basically a very small, handheld drill) so that you can drill into the plastic parts and reinforce with a piece of metal or, as someone else commented, a screw. They're only a couple of quid and really useful.
The standard carpenters pencil is squared off in a specific shape to not only prevent it from rolling off but the wider side is one inch and the smaller width is a half inch to help with evenly dividing/spacing wood.
Some are dimensioned 1/2” x 1/4” and possibly a metric version for the UK and Europe. These specific dimensions can be used to produced even spacing between planks on sub flooring, decking and the like.
When you need to make a plastic weld repair that small, use a half mill drill bit on both sides. Put in a glued peg for strength.
I keep superglue around for dealing with diy/ fix/ crafting injuries. It does well, but you get some interesting crystallisation...
Great Job My Mate VINCE
They are not round for 2 reasons, one so it doesnt roll and the 2nd is the flat lead runs along a t square or straight edge more precisely
TO SMALL TO DRILL .BUT USE A NEEDLE PIN.CUT IT TO SIZE AND HEAT IT UP WITH A LIGHTER TILL RED HOT.THEN STICK IT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE SHAFT
Thanks Sonja :-)
@@Mymatevince alarm wires...black - ground, red - motor positive, white - trigger out for alarm......this would mean that the alarm works from alarm dial independently of time displayed...therefore the time can be synchronised to the alarm or vice versa.
Use baking powder in combination with super glue to build up a new nodge. Just dip super glue on a non sticky surface and push the knob in, then into the powder, then glue and so on. Afterwards cut the newly build plastic to shape.
Carpenter pencils aren't round, not just to stop them rolling, but the dimensions allow it to be used as a spacer or a scribe. Due to it's larger dimensions it's not only easy to handle, but it can mark rough surfaces such as brick (useful when marking out for fitting joists)...
Thanks Fifury, I just watched a YT link on carpenters pencils and now I know how useful they are, especially the half/quarter inch spacing :-)
@@Mymatevince Spook - I think that video was posted a year ago today!
Is it just me, or have they hidden the snooze button around the back? If they have, I would BE Bill Murray in Groundhog Day, and be smashing the thing up to stop it bleeping lol! Great video Vince :)
If I may make a suggestion when gluing stuff together it is a good idea to take a knife and scratch the two faces you will be gluing together it gives it more surface area to stick together ( I think lol) that or even use a coarse piece of sandpaper. Also great vid :)
Hey Vince nice video as always, i saw alot of comments telling you to heat a needle and stick it in the middle of the axle, maybe put 2 trough the bit that connects to the fliping mechanism that way it will not spin arround on itself, also without the glass part in you could fine tune the alarm (i think) while holding steady the wheel that you set the alarm and turning the indication wheel inside if you understand what i mean... dono if any of this makes sense but just wanted to give you some ideeas aswell :) ... as always love your videos and Good Luck. Bob
Yes Bob, that does make sense. Because it is a friction fit, if you held onto it hard enough then you could rotate the inner axle without the actual Alarm display wheel actually moving, as long as the gears were strong enough and didn't strip themselves. Very good idea :-)
I had a similar flip clock in the 80s, which worked directly on the mains, so there wasn't an external power supply as this one has. It worked very well indeed from what I remember, and was Japanese made.
A great fix Vince love the video 🙂
Awesome!! Ground hog day like clock!!! I wonder if that piece broke off because it was wound the wrong way - maybe there's resistance the other direction? Fantastic ending - you've got an ACTUAL ground hog day alarm clock there - ie. you feel like is ground hog day adjusting that damn alarm over and over to try and make it perfect lol! Did you manage to adjust the 1 minute difference between the hour thing? ie. when it goes to :00 does the hour wrap at the same time, or a few seconds later still? I could imagine waking and looking at the alarm and saying to myself - oh, thank god its 06:00 still, close eyes, go back to sleep, 3 seconds later its 07:00 lol!!!!!!
Haha that would be nasty, an hour just stolen from you. The best feeling is waking up on Saturday and thinking it is Friday...then realising it isn't and staying in bed :-) No it is still 5 to 10 seconds delay before the hour flips, I think that is how it is designed. The gear that changes the time can't be spun the wrong way round as it has a little ratchet thing on it to stop that when fully assembled. The alarm can be spun the wrong way but I can't see why this would cause a problem, the instructions definitely stated not to turn the alarm the wrong way though. Maybe that is how it snapped????? I was thinking after opening it up for the ninth time that it is a similar torture to Groundhog Day. Still didn't get it lined up well enough - still bugging me!!!
For future Repairs try Super Glue and use Bakingsoda like an Activator: The Super Glue is in a few Seconds hard "like Steel" and you can build up the Material. And other Soloution: you can try Acetone for ABS Plastics. It "melt" the ABS so you don´t need a hopeless Try with the Soldering Iron.
The British Rail indicators were called the Solaris and quite an expensive system by the Italian firm of the same name, I remember them installing it in London mainline stations at first and it was a marvel as it could be centrally controlled, train approaching controlled or using a simple interface in the station office locally controlled. Waterloo and Victoria had hugely complex ones but it did mean the old way of using pre-painted slat boards slid into the grooves by very nimble workers, could be done away with. At London Bridge, the Solaris during winter rush hours used to steam like billy-o as they were almost in constant use and the motors would overheat.
Thanks Ian, interesting. Something charming about them isn't there. Has your watch buying/fixing eased off a little bit, or are those Russian watches still tempting you?
If you can peel the alarm decal off its mount you can then spin the time until the alarm goes off then reapply the alarm decal at the appropriate time. You will have to put the clock back together without the clear plastic covering the time to get at the alarm dial, then stick the decal on. You may even have to split the decal into two pieces so that the alarm time is the first part to be applied.
I still have a little orange Philips flipclock from the 70's. Still working fine after 50 years or so. The only sign of age is the light. The lightbulb got weak and only in total dark does it give some light. But not enough to light the display. But that is OK. Maybe someday i,ll replace it. Works perfectly otherwise. Keeping time very well. My all steel Solari C.Udine station flipclock also still works. But the metal plates make such a noise when flipping, that it would keep us awake.
Nothing like working with junk, good video though. I've been interested about the way these clocks work.
Awesome video as always 👍🏻❤️
Thanks mate :-)
Do you ever have to watch your videos back to remind you where parts go? That’s the reason I record my fixes lol
There are gel versions of superglue (31:49). I suggest you use those instead whenever you need to glue small pieces because it won't "drain" into every hole jamming some fine mechanism up
The other thing is the hour flip having a 5 second delay or so. I don't know for sure, but that might be due to the HD-1688 Quartz timer. You ran it, making it go round for testing and seeing what it was doing, before gluing the broken piece back on - and maybe its "out of sync"? You might need to make it do a full rotation (and a teeny TINY bit more) then put the HD-1688 back in. Only issue is, it's a few second delay, and I can see that being a pain to get spot on - so I'd probably leave that one alone personally!
I use superglue for small cuts and abrasions, better and cleaner than a plaster.
Even works on deeper cuts instantly stops bleeding too.
Regaljester75 super glue was invented specifically to hold skin together, it was used on the battlefield so intestines and stuff could be put back inside after being blown apart........
@@shaunlenton8865 yes I remember hearing this when I was a kid, that's why I swear by the stuff.
Regaljester75 I've stuck (accidentally) my fingers together more than once while using the glue, I can still remember the wave of panic as to wether or not I can get them unstuck......lol....... Take care n good luck.......
I have done the same for years. Superglue is an instant fix for badly cracked heels also. Instant pain relief.
Maybe look into a "Pin Vise hand drill" to drill a hole. Hobbyist use them to drill holes in the feet of a miniature to place them on a new base
to fix that shaft, since you couldnt drill into it, maybe you couldve used a needle? Heat up the needle to where the plastic will melt so you can insert it. it would make it stronger if that worked I think
Having issues with putting together two small plastic parts I'd suggest pinning them together. This is where you drill small holes in both pieces and put metal pins in the holes. Look up some videos on miniatures and pinning the parts together. That should help you out getting a more solid repair for plastic parts.
if the alarm dial has a printed sticker with the hours marked on it and wrapped around it, then maybe it was stuck on incorrectly in the factory. could you un-peal it and stick it on correctly? without taking it all apart.
was thinking similar, maybe dial is aligned first, synchronised, then the label applied...
I really should take my old digital alarm clock/radio apart and try to fix the switch for the alarm set/radio. It's a bit finicky and doesn't always light the alarm indicator fully. It's probably 10 years old+ at this point and only cost £5 new but worth having a play. Could be a dry solder joint or something.
Greay vid as always. Okay this may seem like a stupid idea but couldn't you set the alarm, ie find out the point where it clicks and the alarm sounds. Then simply change the clock's time to whatever time is displayed that is triggering the alarm.
So rather than fiddling with the alarm position you are adjusting the time to match.
Now if you set the alarm say for 12 it will trigger at twelve as they both match.
some times you can use a very small drill to drill a hole right through the snapped bit and then glue in a piece of stiff single core wire , i normally put little grooves in the wire with a needle file, so when you glue it in it has something to grip to, a thin resin or super glue depending on material ,
That 3rd battery you got out of the clock poked my OCD so hard when other 2 are in 1 compartment and 3rd one just sits randomly :D
Haha, yeah it doesn't seem right to just have one empty space :-)
This one is very interesting, as i've always wanted to see the guts of one of these, but knew that I'd likely never get it working again if I took one apart.
Tgis video helped me to fix mine! Thanks very much man
Pretty sure you can get a pin drill and go through both plastic parts and then stick a piece of metal down. I also think that lose black gear looked a bit chewed up near the beginning 12:22
When that small piece broke off the end the motor driven part kept on turning and wore itself smooth. It seems to make sense.
I'm sure I still have my vintage flip clock in the attic - I got used to the sound and could tell the time just from the sound of the digits flipping (especially on the hour!). I have Alexa now ...
"Love watching your videos" i agree!!
How to sync up the alarm: Put it together (even without the alarm indicator wheel) , set the time to 12:00 by the time setting, then "adjust the alarm" till it just turns on (observe the correct adjustment direction - the alarm wheel should always go "backwards"), then put on the display wheel at the 1200 position, assemble everything together and you are done.
But don't expect much precision, these mechanical alarm clocks were even officially specified (when still made by reputable makers) with +/- 20 minutes or even more (for the alarm to go off) in the manuals.
The cheepeese makers make in the best case the same tolerance mechanisms, but don't hesitate to claim "better than 1minute", but that is nonsense...
yes it is push fit ... it was plastic pin but it is broken now. Numbers are attached like hands onto mechanism, yes it is regular clock mechanism. Baking soda + super glue makes it strong as stone! I've rebuild even cogs teeth with this method, its very strong combination on molecular level. Yes there is a medical Super Glue that sticks big cut wounds. I had a treaded wound like that. Alarm is easy to calibrate, just turn the knob until you hear clap and sound, remove batteries from clock and put all hands on 12 including the alarm hand
Thanks technixbul :-)
When you are doing the plastic to plastic I would use a paperclip straight out and heated up and pushed right in the middle till you get it to were you need it m8t
A needle pin works better
@@sonjamuller399 that would work as well yeah yeah all I can say to you is a paperclip in anything like that would have solved it
hello, I am from Greece and I have bought for the first time exactly this product, but because I am afraid if the product should be connected to the Greek outlet, could you please answer me 🙏
Carpenters pencils are also exactly half an inch and a quarter inch wide/thick
Carpenter pencils are easier to grip than standard pencils, because they have a larger surface area. and they can fit behind your ear and you can draw a strate line on the floor
It looks as if that little bit was glued on the shaft after the fact. I'm assuming that the cloak motor could be used for many other clocks and therefore is at the helm of the company the uses it for whatever purpose that may be. So it seems like they just added it afterwards 🤷♂️
What I would have done in this situation is to drill a hole down both parts, as large as possible. Then I would have inserted a metal dowel down the center of both, with some epoxy on each. So, instead of just a surface to surface gluing, you'd have alot more surface area and torque available with my method. You always manage to get them fixed, I just figured I'd toss in my 2 cents :) drill both ends, find suitable metal dowel, apply epoxy to the dowel and insert
Super glue was used in Vietnam to seal wounds, the problem being though that the only dissolving agent was acetone and prob extremely painful lol Head wounds I have used as a nurse kinda quick setting epoxy that sets almost like a scab but tougher, we were told to use the glue instead of butterfly strips which were next to useless on hairy heads but the wound not warranting a full suture. One of the most aggravating things is suturing head and brow wounds, the skin is so tight against the bone it is very fiddly :(
Could make an interesting video, 'trying to super glue an open head wound'. I would probably end up sticking my finger to the patients eye lid!!!!
I laughed when you had to count the number of sides of an HEXagon especially after calling it by the right name too haha
The hour changing a few seconds after is totally normal as mine does the same!!
that's just asking to be late for work if you glance before the hour changes ! lol
Cool mat! Could you 3D print another part?
I'd shorten the white unused hour axle to get more area for the minute axle for the glue to stick. And maybe print a new sticker for the alarm times.
for restoring parts that have not enough meat on it, you should try mixing superglue with baking soda. Put a dub of glue on a part, sprinkle baking soda, wait till it's dry and repeat, you should build more and more material with every cycle.
Would it be possible to 3D print out a new part for that Flip Clock, if you had a 3D Printer and Cad-key 586+Dongle you would be able to create the G-code that will let you print out a new part.
3:09 so they don't roll off things like roofs.
Never mind Vince getting sent tools, when is the My Mate Vince Official Tool kit Available? 👍🤔
Nice Vince
Does that clock make noise while minutes are going on??
great video
I'm famous, that's my comment! Thanks to @IAmStuart87 for sending you the flip clock, legend!
Haha, thanks for the idea :-)
there shouldn't be a delay in the alarm going off it should be exactly as the numbers flip over i had one of these for many years i loved watching the numbers turn.
I remember taking apart a multiple cd player radio and couldn't figure out why the cds weren't playing when I put it back together I forgot a metal bracket and some screws and well it started working I have no clue how it got fixed or what was wrong with it but it actually played cds again and let me pick 1-5 depending on what disk I wanted to play
to fix this i would have drilled a hole in the broken of piece and the axel then put a split in it with some glue. I think the way it was made is the broken of piece had a split there was pushed in to the axel.
15min in so don't know result but I'd drill a hole with a small bit through center of broken bit and shaft then run a small metal rod (like paperclip) through it for strength and add epoxy
That was my fix as well. Mabe crush the ends flat so when pressed in the drilled hole, it couldn't slip.
Get yourself a pin vice and jewlers bits on line. Cheap as chips buddy!
hey vince i have a 70s or 80s flip clock that dont flip either you can have it for a video if your interested in it for your collection
Yes, that's right, first aid in a field (so the hurt won't bleed out before evac to med site).
The rectangular part that you glued, seems to me to have been the head of a "pin" that was glued in the hole for the unused second-hand shaft. I hate glue - preferring a mechanical solution.