exactly how i thought it should be done, I think this is the best way to do it with the least work. Some are undoing compressor and removing it from the bottom, some people are removing catalytic converter but you dont need to do that. This is the best way. Thanks
Very useful video - what I also found was that the 2 bolts to the rear of the alternator (nearest exhaust) sit in split conical bushes. Once you've literally slackened them both, you can pull the alternator out with those 2 bolts and bushes still attached. When you fit the new one, install both bolts and bushes into the alternator and they will slide through the mounting. Half a turn each and both are fully tightened. Only discovered this after the pain of spending 30 mins removing 1 bolt! 🤦♂️
My alternator failed yesterday after doing a whistle sound for a while, so I ordered a replacement and meanwhile it comes, I 've watch many youtube tutorials doing this job by removing compressor and even the wheel and guard. But after examining my car I was wondering if if possible to do this job from above. Yor video confirmed me that certainly it is possible so thank you.
very useful video, I struggled to release the bolt from the inner part of the alternator, now I know what I need , plus The cofiguration on mine is spot on, good job mate
Last few weeks my alternator was acting weirdly. Then lat few days started to stink like burning cables. Then abs was gone and esp. Then power steering was gone on idle. Over 3000rps everything would come back but battery got flat eventually. Can I be 100% sure that's alternator I need ?
For the last bolt on the bottom if you dont have a flexi head spanner push the Alternator towards the front of the car and you can get in with a normal spanner it will still take 20 mins to get the bolt out though as i found out
That 4th bottom right bolt` I can not get a spanner to reach any tips on getting to that bast-rd bolt, my good battery has been damaged as well now it charges on the bench to 12,42 as soon as i disconnect it drops to 11,58,and when it was left in the car it shows 0,40
I’m trying to do this on a Mini Cooper D R56 2008 and all is well until the last bolt. I can’t see it (will check again with better lighting) and I can’t get my hand down there to fell where it is. When tilting the alternator forward it stops when it bumps into something below (compressor pipes maybe?) so there is very little room to get a tool down to the last bolt. What tool did you use for that - same as the other ”inner” bolt?
@@ORileysAutos Possibly - but the pipe (or whatever it is) preventing me from tilting the alternator further forward would still be there making it hard to reach the bolt. Getting the thing out of the engine bay is next problem - it might not be possible without removing more stuff…
@@charsobishi Yes, I ended up using a Wifi endoscope from above to see what I was doing and had the alternator in its original position (not tilted forward). I could get a tool in there from the front althoguh it was tight for my hand and arm. The bolt doesn’t need to be loosened that much - just to get the conical thing to slide be a bit free from the head of the bolt - then the bolt can go through the opening of the hole when the alternator is wriggled out. It took time and patience, I had help holding the endoscope and phone so I saw what was happening.
@@anderspetersson9700 Thanks for your help, managed to get that little bugger. Have put the new Alternator in there now. Sadly didn't have enough time to put all the rest of the stuff back. So going to have to wait until my day off.
great video i think this is the issue with my Mrs car it had no power to start but jumped started fine then as she drove it home the power steering stopped working and several warning lights came on the windows were slow to go up and it won't re start on its own
Same happened to my wife. Power steering / ABS warning first then steering went then all lights. After a battery charge the battery light comes on when driving. Alternator is the cause.
Yes it is. I just did my C30 today. Thye bolt head sizes are not the same as in thid video, but most it the same. Also take note of Les Najair answer here above. It will save you a few hours and tears.
@@charsobishi Cant find the video now. But it boils down to that you don't have to remove the bolt that is closets to the DPF, you just have to undo it about one turn. Then you can slide the alternator out to the left, from the DPF. The head oft he bolt goes thru the hole. Use a prying bar, it it rakes alot of force.
What a horrible job indeed, did this on my Volvo V50 and had to remove air con compressor support bolts, and slide the compressor forward to access bottom right bolt which is crap.. total crap working on card these days nothing easy 😡😡
Thanks for a great guide. Did my Volvo C30 1.6d today. I would also like to recommend this video when it comes to the belt tensioner: ua-cam.com/video/wfI2N_yigRk/v-deo.html
exactly how i thought it should be done, I think this is the best way to do it with the least work. Some are undoing compressor and removing it from the bottom, some people are removing catalytic converter but you dont need to do that. This is the best way. Thanks
Thank you
It isn't near the cat adnans
Very useful video - what I also found was that the 2 bolts to the rear of the alternator (nearest exhaust) sit in split conical bushes. Once you've literally slackened them both, you can pull the alternator out with those 2 bolts and bushes still attached. When you fit the new one, install both bolts and bushes into the alternator and they will slide through the mounting. Half a turn each and both are fully tightened. Only discovered this after the pain of spending 30 mins removing 1 bolt! 🤦♂️
My alternator failed yesterday after doing a whistle sound for a while, so I ordered a replacement and meanwhile it comes, I 've watch many youtube tutorials doing this job by removing compressor and even the wheel and guard. But after examining my car I was wondering if if possible to do this job from above. Yor video confirmed me that certainly it is possible so thank you.
Thanks for watching
This method works perfect, you save my life , Many thanks!!
Właśnie teraz zepsuł mi się alternator, bardzo pomocny film. Dzięki.
👍🏻
very useful video, I struggled to release the bolt from the inner part of the alternator, now I know what I need , plus The cofiguration on mine is spot on, good job mate
Thanks for the feedback 😀
Made it so much easier than other videos on this job
Thank you for watching 👍🏻
Last few weeks my alternator was acting weirdly. Then lat few days started to stink like burning cables. Then abs was gone and esp. Then power steering was gone on idle. Over 3000rps everything would come back but battery got flat eventually. Can I be 100% sure that's alternator I need ?
For the last bolt on the bottom if you dont have a flexi head spanner push the Alternator towards the front of the car and you can get in with a normal spanner it will still take 20 mins to get the bolt out though as i found out
That 4th bottom right bolt` I can not get a spanner to reach any tips on getting to that bast-rd bolt, my good battery has been damaged as well now it charges on the bench to 12,42 as soon as i disconnect it drops to 11,58,and when it was left in the car it shows 0,40
I’m trying to do this on a Mini Cooper D R56 2008 and all is well until the last bolt. I can’t see it (will check again with better lighting) and I can’t get my hand down there to fell where it is. When tilting the alternator forward it stops when it bumps into something below (compressor pipes maybe?) so there is very little room to get a tool down to the last bolt. What tool did you use for that - same as the other ”inner” bolt?
I'm pretty sure you have to remove the front bumper and inner arch on a mini?
@@ORileysAutos Possibly - but the pipe (or whatever it is) preventing me from tilting the alternator further forward would still be there making it hard to reach the bolt. Getting the thing out of the engine bay is next problem - it might not be possible without removing more stuff…
@@anderspetersson9700 Hi, I've just had this exact problem with my Peugeot 308. Did you have any luck?
@@charsobishi Yes, I ended up using a Wifi endoscope from above to see what I was doing and had the alternator in its original position (not tilted forward). I could get a tool in there from the front althoguh it was tight for my hand and arm. The bolt doesn’t need to be loosened that much - just to get the conical thing to slide be a bit free from the head of the bolt - then the bolt can go through the opening of the hole when the alternator is wriggled out. It took time and patience, I had help holding the endoscope and phone so I saw what was happening.
@@anderspetersson9700 Thanks for your help, managed to get that little bugger. Have put the new Alternator in there now. Sadly didn't have enough time to put all the rest of the stuff back. So going to have to wait until my day off.
great video i think this is the issue with my Mrs car it had no power to start but jumped started fine then as she drove it home the power steering stopped working and several warning lights came on the windows were slow to go up and it won't re start on its own
Same happened to my wife. Power steering / ABS warning first then steering went then all lights. After a battery charge the battery light comes on when driving. Alternator is the cause.
@@CurboroughSprinter Yes it was it's been changed and has been fine since thanks
Is this the same engine as the 1.6 diesel Volvo c30
Yes it is
Great vid thanks will attempt at the weekend 👍
Yes it is. I just did my C30 today. Thye bolt head sizes are not the same as in thid video, but most it the same. Also take note of Les Najair answer here above. It will save you a few hours and tears.
@@Tobbera is there a video of Les Nejirs example? Im really struggling
@@charsobishi Cant find the video now. But it boils down to that you don't have to remove the bolt that is closets to the DPF, you just have to undo it about one turn. Then you can slide the alternator out to the left, from the DPF. The head oft he bolt goes thru the hole. Use a prying bar, it it rakes alot of force.
What a horrible job indeed, did this on my Volvo V50 and had to remove air con compressor support bolts, and slide the compressor forward to access bottom right bolt which is crap.. total crap working on card these days nothing easy 😡😡
Thanks alot!
Happy to help
Made it look EZ Bro
Thank you
Thanks for a great guide. Did my Volvo C30 1.6d today. I would also like to recommend this video when it comes to the belt tensioner: ua-cam.com/video/wfI2N_yigRk/v-deo.html
Thank you