Psychrometrics guys. The dryness of air has to do with the temperature gain. Only way this 'dry' statement is true is if the HW can't produce the same high temperature of air. Furnaces do not allow combustion gases to have mixing with air. Great craftsmanship though. Kudos on that piping plan
I'm glad someone said it, that irked me. Another thing that would add to dryer air in the winter is air-leakage to the outside as well which is less of a problem in newer high performance homes.
I consider myself extremely lucky that my thermodynamics professor found time at the end of the term to cover psychometrics! It really simplifies the connection between heating/cooling air and the humidity.
Wow! Amazing setup and attention to detail. I'd love a follow-up video where we hear from the homeowners in a few months/next year as to how well the system works. My issue with this type of system - and it may be because of my 16-year-old AquaTherm system's deficiencies, is that the air exiting the registers is not as warm as a traditional gas-fired furnace. As such, it takes an inordinate amount of time to heat my home, which is about 1,300 sq ft.
Thank you, thank you, thank you! Sincerely, Thank You, to you Nick, and the entire team. This was a fantastic, and very informative video. It answered a lot of my questions, but also gave me new ones; most importantly, it has given me a starting point. I now know what is possible. Thank you for taking the time, the energy, and the effort to put these videos together. Sincerely, it is absolutely most appreciated. Thank you. -C.M.
Love the idea of putting the ERV into the return of the HVAC system so it 1) eliminates the need for its own ductwork, and 2) conditions the air before it enters the home so you always have a comfortable home. I’m a little unclear about the answer about how it all works when the AC isn’t running though. Was he saying that the ERV ducts go directly to the return grills themselves?
Awesome Video. However it sounds like you were on to something with the ERV dumping air through the existing air handler returns. When the air handler is off the ERV should probably send a 24v signal to the air handler to turn on its fan. Does the ERV generate enough CFM to drop through the returns?
If you subtract all the future set ups they installed, the cost difference is not that significant to use their set up. The radiant in the garage is definitely not necessary, but popular among high end clients. The combi boiler can only run off natural gas. So im assuming is supplied by the street, otherwise they need to have a tank somewhere. If we assume its supplied by a main gas line running in the street, you then dont technically need a chimney because its a direct vent. This saves you a lot in some cases. This client would most likely have a chimney for wood burning anyway though. I would think its justified straight away. The combi boilers are sometimes less than a good oil fired. Also take way less space.
New fans have 10-12 CFM/WATT! Which is great, I replaced a 70 cfm at 60 watts bath fan with a new digital at 6 watts. It would cost at 10cent/kwh 24/7 $5/yr to run. A cheap way is to use the Hampton bay 50 cfm 1sone 6 watts to ventilate use a wemo wifi wall switch and program times
Hell, Love the build. One of your last videos showed the Viega guy in basement saying there was "4" zones in basement? Is it one zone with 4 areas? Thanks! Mike
Guys, heating air does not remove moisture from it. It doesn't matter if it's a boiler/coil unit, a gas furnace, a heat pump... no heating appliance dries the supply air. The only way a forced air system can dry a house is if the airflow results in room-to-room pressure imbalances and increased air infiltration; cold dry air infiltration in winter months can dry inside air.
Spray foam insulation, likely open cell spray foam but could also be closed cell. (Main difference is open cell is water permeable and needs thicker layer for same R-value but cheaper, closed cell is denser and water & air tight so you can get more R value is tighter area) There’s lots of different brands out there but just search for spray foam installers in your area and you can find some (because you mix and install on site, the spray foam guys usually only do spray foam, and guys who work with regular batt won’t do spray foam, as there’s for sure an art to getting spray foam right)
No trap on condensate drain on AHU in basement, negative side of the blower, need a trap to drain properly. Running traps are never good to use either, clog easier and usually not deep enough to overcome the blower.
Pretty slick system - I'm still waiting to see a system that does both hot water and ice buffer generation for "on-demand" with a water-to-water heat pump at the core, a solar tube heat collector on the roof and a low-temperature air-to-water heat pump - running off a few solar panels and a steerable CHP plant (95%/5% to 5%/95% heat/power). Hydronic-radiant heat in the floors and hydronic-radiant cooling in the ceilings, with a much smaller water-to-air heat exchanger and an energy recovery unit plumbed into a dehumidifier for fresh air conditioning. Variable speed pumps on all fluid circuits, variable speed fans on all air circuits, and large diffusers for low air movement speeds in the occupied spaces. Comfort, energy efficiency, indoor air quality, power all in one system.
America has it in a college dormitory in Pittsburgh. It was over thought out and the cooling panels in the ceilings had trouble getting their controls to communicate with the B.A.S. the cost is to great for a regular home to make sense for the average home. For the climate they are in the best for efficiency and initial cost IMO is to have a high efficiency furnace with a variable speed ecm blower with an inverter heat pump.
they both looked like deer caught in headlights when you asked about what happens when the attic air handler isnt running and the erv is still (continuously) sending air to it. their answer that its sent back through the returns at more than likely a colder/hotter temp than heated/cooled room requirements (causes the air handler to run more often) makes no good sense whatsoever. hrv`s and erv`s are fickle (but necessary) pieces of equipment that have to be installed properly. the proper erv wouldve been independent of the air handler. really disappointed in their half ass design. it would serve you well to steer clear of these two knuckleheads in the future. anyhowways your question was spot on Mr. Brainiac
I agree. ERV's work best when connected to an A/H which runs 24/7, else they just circulate the air back to the ERV when the A/H is shut down (path of least resistance). An A/H with a DC variable speed motor is most efficient. Or, run separate air handling lines to/from the ERV.
Everything very efficient - still way more expensive than in the 70s. These over engeneerd houses are the reason a smaller percentage can afford a starter house. Step by step going the way Germany is building. ( much lower home ownership) ( great houses) ( I first saw this heat exchange in 93 in Germany - used in buildings)
That is a ridiculous amount of equipment to get ventilation, water and heat around a home! Wouldn't need half of the budget that total system cost in the UK. Wow. Not a hater, I love pretty much all your videos, but I couldn't believe what I was seeing here.
Ross is just like his dad. Very informative professional. Great job love the details.
I've seen this guy on TOH. Who is his dad?
@@thaitichi richard trethewey
American plumber
Your show is inspiring for all builders and hopefully the younger one as well.
Psychrometrics guys. The dryness of air has to do with the temperature gain. Only way this 'dry' statement is true is if the HW can't produce the same high temperature of air. Furnaces do not allow combustion gases to have mixing with air.
Great craftsmanship though. Kudos on that piping plan
I'm glad someone said it, that irked me. Another thing that would add to dryer air in the winter is air-leakage to the outside as well which is less of a problem in newer high performance homes.
I consider myself extremely lucky that my thermodynamics professor found time at the end of the term to cover psychometrics! It really simplifies the connection between heating/cooling air and the humidity.
Wow! Amazing setup and attention to detail. I'd love a follow-up video where we hear from the homeowners in a few months/next year as to how well the system works. My issue with this type of system - and it may be because of my 16-year-old AquaTherm system's deficiencies, is that the air exiting the registers is not as warm as a traditional gas-fired furnace. As such, it takes an inordinate amount of time to heat my home, which is about 1,300 sq ft.
I like the amount of thought that went into making this efficient.
Me 2
Great job by the HVAC
The entire job of plumbing it look beautiful even the wood behind it
Hey guys - that was a terrific explanation of these HVAC systems. THANK YOU!
Thank you, thank you, thank you! Sincerely, Thank You, to you Nick, and the entire team. This was a fantastic, and very informative video. It answered a lot of my questions, but also gave me new ones; most importantly, it has given me a starting point. I now know what is possible. Thank you for taking the time, the energy, and the effort to put these videos together. Sincerely, it is absolutely most appreciated. Thank you. -C.M.
Love the idea of putting the ERV into the return of the HVAC system so it 1) eliminates the need for its own ductwork, and 2) conditions the air before it enters the home so you always have a comfortable home.
I’m a little unclear about the answer about how it all works when the AC isn’t running though. Was he saying that the ERV ducts go directly to the return grills themselves?
Awesome Video. However it sounds like you were on to something with the ERV dumping air through the existing air handler returns. When the air handler is off the ERV should probably send a 24v signal to the air handler to turn on its fan. Does the ERV generate enough CFM to drop through the returns?
This is an awesome episode Nick. These guys did a fantastic job on this one.
I like the transom above the garage door. Are they insulated? is the 2x4 header used to suport them over the 8+ft garage door span? Thanks in advance
Wow very, very, very nice setup!!!! My only concern being a South Florida HVAC contractor is, How long before the upfront cost justify the install?
If you subtract all the future set ups they installed, the cost difference is not that significant to use their set up. The radiant in the garage is definitely not necessary, but popular among high end clients. The combi boiler can only run off natural gas. So im assuming is supplied by the street, otherwise they need to have a tank somewhere. If we assume its supplied by a main gas line running in the street, you then dont technically need a chimney because its a direct vent. This saves you a lot in some cases. This client would most likely have a chimney for wood burning anyway though. I would think its justified straight away. The combi boilers are sometimes less than a good oil fired. Also take way less space.
Cool setup! On the downside the replacement cost of that equipment in 15-20 years is going to put an HVAC tech's kid through college.
New fans have 10-12 CFM/WATT! Which is great, I replaced a 70 cfm at 60 watts bath fan with a new digital at 6 watts. It would cost at 10cent/kwh 24/7 $5/yr to run. A cheap way is to use the Hampton bay 50 cfm 1sone 6 watts to ventilate use a wemo wifi wall switch and program times
Hell,
Love the build.
One of your last videos showed the Viega guy in basement saying there was "4" zones in basement? Is it one zone with 4 areas? Thanks!
Mike
Guys, heating air does not remove moisture from it. It doesn't matter if it's a boiler/coil unit, a gas furnace, a heat pump... no heating appliance dries the supply air.
The only way a forced air system can dry a house is if the airflow results in room-to-room pressure imbalances and increased air infiltration; cold dry air infiltration in winter months can dry inside air.
Why use forced air heat in some parts of the home? Why not radiant heat on all floors?
Can somebody tell me what is the white insulation foam under the roof ? I m looking for fire proof insulation. Thanks
Spray foam insulation, likely open cell spray foam but could also be closed cell. (Main difference is open cell is water permeable and needs thicker layer for same R-value but cheaper, closed cell is denser and water & air tight so you can get more R value is tighter area) There’s lots of different brands out there but just search for spray foam installers in your area and you can find some (because you mix and install on site, the spray foam guys usually only do spray foam, and guys who work with regular batt won’t do spray foam, as there’s for sure an art to getting spray foam right)
No trap on condensate drain on AHU in basement, negative side of the blower, need a trap to drain properly. Running traps are never good to use either, clog easier and usually not deep enough to overcome the blower.
Pretty slick system - I'm still waiting to see a system that does both hot water and ice buffer generation for "on-demand" with a water-to-water heat pump at the core, a solar tube heat collector on the roof and a low-temperature air-to-water heat pump - running off a few solar panels and a steerable CHP plant (95%/5% to 5%/95% heat/power). Hydronic-radiant heat in the floors and hydronic-radiant cooling in the ceilings, with a much smaller water-to-air heat exchanger and an energy recovery unit plumbed into a dehumidifier for fresh air conditioning. Variable speed pumps on all fluid circuits, variable speed fans on all air circuits, and large diffusers for low air movement speeds in the occupied spaces. Comfort, energy efficiency, indoor air quality, power all in one system.
CERV ll would be nice to see as well, but Americans so behind so not in our life time
Dork
America has it in a college dormitory in Pittsburgh. It was over thought out and the cooling panels in the ceilings had trouble getting their controls to communicate with the B.A.S. the cost is to great for a regular home to make sense for the average home. For the climate they are in the best for efficiency and initial cost IMO is to have a high efficiency furnace with a variable speed ecm blower with an inverter heat pump.
Why heat the garage? Shouldn't it be warmed by the adjacent walls?
What brand is that coil unit??
Sweet!!! Thank you... Is the plenum box custom made or do you have a company link?
Comfortability?
If you run condensing boiler at 180 degrees, it won't be condensing and then it'll be 83% efficient, not 95%
they both looked like deer caught in headlights when you asked about what happens when the attic air handler isnt running and the erv is still (continuously) sending air to it. their answer that its sent back through the returns at more than likely a colder/hotter temp than heated/cooled room requirements (causes the air handler to run more often) makes no good sense whatsoever. hrv`s and erv`s are fickle (but necessary) pieces of equipment that have to be installed properly. the proper erv wouldve been independent of the air handler. really disappointed in their half ass design. it would serve you well to steer clear of these two knuckleheads in the future. anyhowways your question was spot on Mr. Brainiac
I agree. ERV's work best when connected to an A/H which runs 24/7, else they just circulate the air back to the ERV when the A/H is shut down (path of least resistance). An A/H with a DC variable speed motor is most efficient. Or, run separate air handling lines to/from the ERV.
Everything very efficient - still way more expensive than in the 70s.
These over engeneerd houses are the reason a smaller percentage can afford a starter house.
Step by step going the way Germany is building. ( much lower home ownership) ( great houses)
( I first saw this heat exchange in 93 in Germany - used in buildings)
That is a ridiculous amount of equipment to get ventilation, water and heat around a home!
Wouldn't need half of the budget that total system cost in the UK. Wow.
Not a hater, I love pretty much all your videos, but I couldn't believe what I was seeing here.
Holy incorrect statements Batman!