Great video man! I generally use whatever is closest to the bench at the time! I’ve tried using barge recently and yes it stinks and is probably terrible for you, but you can’t beat the bond. Once it’s dry, you can just take all the clips off and not have to worry about your thread catching on them while you are stitching! Great work man, keep it up!
I use the same glue formula as you and have been doing it for six weeks or so. I love this adhesive although it took some getting used to how hard this grabs on to anything it touches. In the beginning it got stuck to anything, especially the paper towels I was used to have lying all over the place to away excess glue with. I also have one different type of water based glue which I think has some merit and that is the Seiwa Leather Adhesive. Seiwa are the ones who make Tokonole and diamond shaped chisels and other things (that appear identical to the Kyoshin Elle tools) in Japan. This glue you can stick together right away and it starts to bond after a while. So you apply it and then you have 10 to 20 minutes to move parts around before they are stuck. I have only used this one once but it could be useful if for example you have to align some very tricky parts that need to be aligned varefully. I have no idea how permanent or flexible it is tho but it seemed very strong when I used it once on a bag. The instructions on the label are Japanese but I took a photo of it and Google translated it. I only mention it since you asked about other glues we use. Always good to know about alternatives. However most things can probably be done with the 1816B and proper planning.
I'd actually really like to try the Seiwa glue! I didn't know it acted like that! Plus Tokonole is so good, I can't imagine their other products aren't quality. Thanks for the comment!
@@BlackFlagLeatherGoods Intercom makes the water based contact adhesive for Tandy. It is either made in France or Italy. It dries quicker than any other contact cement I have tried and is water based. The other near perfect, water based contact cement is Aquiline 315 from Germany. Both water based contact adhesives work as well as regular VOC cements. I use Masters contact cement since Steve at Bedo's recommended it. Not a big fan of Barge. 2 cents added.
I went the opposite direction. I started with water-based and only recently tried Barge. After two batches of Barge, I’m going back to water-based. I always stitch, so my biggest concern with adhesives lies with burnishing. I found that burnishing with canvas worked better with Barge, while a slicker seems to work better with water-based glues. I can always get that glass-smooth look with water-based, but it’s hit and miss with Barge. Between that, the fumes, and the increased mess I experience with Barge, I’m canning it until I find some use for it down the road.
I found the same thing with burnishing. It's almost like because it's rubbery, burnishing sort of pulls it out. I did find I could eliminate that by applying a thin coat of wax, but I figured why bother. I'm living the water-based
I pretty much only use water based leather adhesives. The Renia and Seiwa are both great quality. Easy to apply, good viscosity, minimal effect on edges during burnishing and completely unscented. I notice my customers always put the leather items to their nose first. I try to honor their expectations with the leathers natural tannin aroma, rather than the smell of toxic bonding agents. I might have one tube of Barge laying around, but only use it for attaching non leather items (plastic ID shields) to leather. It holds better (pro tip) Cheers!🍺👍
Mmm. The glue depends on what you're doing. Contact cements are for a permanent hold, a joining of the two pieces to make them act and react as one. White glue types don't hold near as well and are mostly for temporary holds, like gluing the leather together so that you can stitch it. That glue pulls apart for you when you're stretching pockets in wallets and whatnot, so that the only thing holding it together now is the stitching, etc. If you wanted to put two layers together, like say, for a belt, then using a white glue wouldn't do because it would come apart in no time, whereas a contact cement will hold it pretty much forever. Quality typically comes with downsides. You want the glue to last? You're going to have to use one that has fumes. Ha.
White glue and wood glue is weak. Water based contact adhesive is also white but is as strong as contact cement. You also use it the same way and have to let it sit until it is almost completely dry before gluing your pieces together.
Im a fan of the water based contact adhesive Tandy sells. But for larger areas i use spray glue. Super 77 from 3M. It goes on super thin and cleans up quick. I may have to try this stuff tho. Always looking for alternative ways to do things.
Man the Tandy stuff seems popular. I might have to run in there after work one day and grab some. Spray glue sounds brilliant! I had never considered it.
I have tried quite a few different glues and for most of what I am doing I really like Angelus Clear Shoe Cement. The only downside is it is only available in 4oz bottles.
Personally, I've been using Fischleim (Fish glue) since I've started leather work and it's pretty much the perfect mix for me. It's cheap, elastic, hardens pretty fast and (important for me) it's historically accurate. Only thing I dislike about it is the fact that it stinks a little :-) but that goes away once it's hardened.
@@BlackFlagLeatherGoods Personally it reminded me of Knochenleim (Bone glue), price and smell wise, only that it is more elastic. If you need something that's like stone when it's hardened, I can recommend bone glue :-D
I've honestly never even looked into making a jacket before. I know Zeebee leather made one completely by hand a couple years ago. I think he used a nubuck leather. Check it out here: www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/saddle-stitched-leather-jacket.100982/
But what about strength? For example what if you were doing a boot or shoe, and really needed something to stick? From what I'm seeing most people swear by Barge for strength in applications like that.
To be fair the “contact cement” you are using “LePage” is the worse contact cement and doesn’t work like a normal cement does. I prefer barge cement. Just use a respirator with it. Water based contact cement is good too. As long as it’s a contact cement though and not a wood glue or elmers glue type of glue that moves around once you glue it. Renia Aquilim is the best. The 315 or 130 are the best. There are a bunch of different types for different uses so make sure you get the right one for you if you try it. There are some permanent bond glues, semipermanent glues, semi permanent glue that can be separated within 24 hours but if kept stuck together for longer than 24 hours, bond permanently, etc. There is a permanent glue with a cross link hardener inside of it used for things that will experience a lot of friction and heat. The 315 is the standard permanent bond contact cement while the 130 is the same thing but with the cross link hardener added (the hardener can also be bought by itself in a small bottle and added manually to the 315)
when i was a kid, htere was this tub of glue that i thought was a syrup type sweet. long story short i ended up eating some. maybe i should have read the label lol!!!
Great video man! I generally use whatever is closest to the bench at the time! I’ve tried using barge recently and yes it stinks and is probably terrible for you, but you can’t beat the bond. Once it’s dry, you can just take all the clips off and not have to worry about your thread catching on them while you are stitching!
Great work man, keep it up!
Another informational video. I use the Tandy one and enjoy it!
The tandy one sounds popular. I might have to give it a shot
Always so helpful!
I use the same glue formula as you and have been doing it for six weeks or so. I love this adhesive although it took some getting used to how hard this grabs on to anything it touches. In the beginning it got stuck to anything, especially the paper towels I was used to have lying all over the place to away excess glue with.
I also have one different type of water based glue which I think has some merit and that is the Seiwa Leather Adhesive. Seiwa are the ones who make Tokonole and diamond shaped chisels and other things (that appear identical to the Kyoshin Elle tools) in Japan. This glue you can stick together right away and it starts to bond after a while. So you apply it and then you have 10 to 20 minutes to move parts around before they are stuck.
I have only used this one once but it could be useful if for example you have to align some very tricky parts that need to be aligned varefully. I have no idea how permanent or flexible it is tho but it seemed very strong when I used it once on a bag. The instructions on the label are Japanese but I took a photo of it and Google translated it.
I only mention it since you asked about other glues we use. Always good to know about alternatives. However most things can probably be done with the 1816B and proper planning.
I'd actually really like to try the Seiwa glue! I didn't know it acted like that! Plus Tokonole is so good, I can't imagine their other products aren't quality.
Thanks for the comment!
I use Intercom Ecostick 1816B, have tried Kyoshin Elle too but prefer the Intercom.
Pretty game changing. I'm impressed at how well it bonds. I wasn't expecting water based to be as strong.
@@BlackFlagLeatherGoods Intercom makes the water based contact adhesive for Tandy. It is either made in France or Italy. It dries quicker than any other contact cement I have tried and is water based. The other near perfect, water based contact cement is Aquiline 315 from Germany. Both water based contact adhesives work as well as regular VOC cements. I use Masters contact cement since Steve at Bedo's recommended it. Not a big fan of Barge. 2 cents added.
I went the opposite direction. I started with water-based and only recently tried Barge. After two batches of Barge, I’m going back to water-based. I always stitch, so my biggest concern with adhesives lies with burnishing. I found that burnishing with canvas worked better with Barge, while a slicker seems to work better with water-based glues. I can always get that glass-smooth look with water-based, but it’s hit and miss with Barge. Between that, the fumes, and the increased mess I experience with Barge, I’m canning it until I find some use for it down the road.
I found the same thing with burnishing. It's almost like because it's rubbery, burnishing sort of pulls it out. I did find I could eliminate that by applying a thin coat of wax, but I figured why bother. I'm living the water-based
I pretty much only use water based leather adhesives. The Renia and Seiwa are both great quality. Easy to apply, good viscosity, minimal effect on edges during burnishing and completely unscented. I notice my customers always put the leather items to their nose first. I try to honor their expectations with the leathers natural tannin aroma, rather than the smell of toxic bonding agents. I might have one tube of Barge laying around, but only use it for attaching non leather items (plastic ID shields) to leather. It holds better (pro tip) Cheers!🍺👍
You keep getting more and more pretty each video
I use the Tandy branded glue. I was surprised how well it worked!
Just found your channel. If you are worried about fumes have you tried basting tape? It's odorless and no squeeze out either. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for the kind words! I actually just picked up some basting tape (mainly for zippers), but I'll give it a shot in place of glue elsewhere too!
Is there a drying time before you put pieces together, or can you go ahead and stick them together and clamp?
There's a bit of drying time. Maybe just slightly longer than contact cement but still pretty much the same.
Mmm. The glue depends on what you're doing. Contact cements are for a permanent hold, a joining of the two pieces to make them act and react as one. White glue types don't hold near as well and are mostly for temporary holds, like gluing the leather together so that you can stitch it. That glue pulls apart for you when you're stretching pockets in wallets and whatnot, so that the only thing holding it together now is the stitching, etc. If you wanted to put two layers together, like say, for a belt, then using a white glue wouldn't do because it would come apart in no time, whereas a contact cement will hold it pretty much forever. Quality typically comes with downsides. You want the glue to last? You're going to have to use one that has fumes. Ha.
White glue and wood glue is weak. Water based contact adhesive is also white but is as strong as contact cement. You also use it the same way and have to let it sit until it is almost completely dry before gluing your pieces together.
@@AlexanderMason1 Haven't ever heard of a water based being as strong as contact cement... and certainly haven't ever found any that were. Haha.
@@Jento I’m sure you haven’t, but it’s there, and it’s been around for quite a while now. Tests prove what I said as well.
Im a fan of the water based contact adhesive Tandy sells.
But for larger areas i use spray glue. Super 77 from 3M. It goes on super thin and cleans up quick.
I may have to try this stuff tho.
Always looking for alternative ways to do things.
Man the Tandy stuff seems popular. I might have to run in there after work one day and grab some.
Spray glue sounds brilliant! I had never considered it.
@@BlackFlagLeatherGoods come in on a wednesday or thursday. bring me a coffee and ill show ya where we keep the good stuff! lol
Haha deal!!
I have tried quite a few different glues and for most of what I am doing I really like Angelus Clear Shoe Cement. The only downside is it is only available in 4oz bottles.
Cool! I'll check it out! Thanks for watching!
@@BlackFlagLeatherGoods no problem. I really liked your content.
Thank you! I really appreciate that!
I'm 74 and new ... to leather crafting ,but I have been using e6000. Any bad thoughts?
I mean as long as it works for you, I'd say go for it. I'd maybe wear gloves using that stuff is all.
U gotta try 1816 trust me
Personally, I've been using Fischleim (Fish glue) since I've started leather work and it's pretty much the perfect mix for me. It's cheap, elastic, hardens pretty fast and (important for me) it's historically accurate. Only thing I dislike about it is the fact that it stinks a little :-) but that goes away once it's hardened.
I've never heard of it! I'll have to check it out!
@@BlackFlagLeatherGoods Personally it reminded me of Knochenleim (Bone glue), price and smell wise, only that it is more elastic. If you need something that's like stone when it's hardened, I can recommend bone glue :-D
Great video!
Thank you, brother!
Can you tells me. Which one I can use for leather jackets.
I've honestly never even looked into making a jacket before. I know Zeebee leather made one completely by hand a couple years ago. I think he used a nubuck leather. Check it out here:
www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/saddle-stitched-leather-jacket.100982/
I like to use carpenters wood glue. If I run out and there's some Elmers glue around. I'll use that also.
But what about strength? For example what if you were doing a boot or shoe, and really needed something to stick? From what I'm seeing most people swear by Barge for strength in applications like that.
The Renia 315 is contact cement.
I guess they are calling it that aren't they? When I say contact cement I'm referring to solvent-based cements.
To be fair the “contact cement” you are using “LePage” is the worse contact cement and doesn’t work like a normal cement does. I prefer barge cement. Just use a respirator with it. Water based contact cement is good too. As long as it’s a contact cement though and not a wood glue or elmers glue type of glue that moves around once you glue it. Renia Aquilim is the best. The 315 or 130 are the best. There are a bunch of different types for different uses so make sure you get the right one for you if you try it. There are some permanent bond glues, semipermanent glues, semi permanent glue that can be separated within 24 hours but if kept stuck together for longer than 24 hours, bond permanently, etc. There is a permanent glue with a cross link hardener inside of it used for things that will experience a lot of friction and heat. The 315 is the standard permanent bond contact cement while the 130 is the same thing but with the cross link hardener added (the hardener can also be bought by itself in a small bottle and added manually to the 315)
Aquilim is excellent, and no harmful fumes.
I've heard it's the best. I think this ecostick 1816b is pretty similar.
when i was a kid, htere was this tub of glue that i thought was a syrup type sweet. long story short i ended up eating some. maybe i should have read the label lol!!!
Thanks 👽
Been using Seiwa Ace since pretty much day one. Tried contact cement, couldn't get use to the taste. #dadoftwo
Hahaha it's a bit spicy 😂