Yooo seems like my and Panzermeister36's upload schedule lined up just right and we posted the same video today 😅 If you're interested check out his vid as well for a slightly different approach: ua-cam.com/video/8IvBMYtBNmI/v-deo.html
That was great. I'm sure most of us will agree, but shorter videos covering just one technique like this are great as they're concise and not confusing. It's a single step of the process, so it being its own video (separate from the lower hull weathering) makes more sense. Seeing you add the grass reminded me that I need to add some snow to my T-40 tracks. I completely forgot lol :)
Stupid grass wouldn't hold in place and after finishing the model there were like 5 strands that made it to the very end, but I didn't want to go the extra mile and use superglue to fix them. Can't wait for some bigger tracks, these small ones are like... you spend some time on them, but in the end it still looks kinda meh cuz they're just too tiny 😅 Snow makes everything look better, go for it!
Hey chemist here again: You can probably make the burnishing fluid from white vinegar and steel wool. Leave it in over night, brush the vinegar on. Tin (the main part of white metal) is subject to Iron Accretion, that is to say, if there is dissolved iron oxide in contact with it the iron oxide (good old rust) will start to stick. It is probably in the form of Iron Acetate (which is greenish and used to stain wood, like the solution in the bottle), and that's safe and easy to make. They might have a stronger acid, so it's faster, but since home made is dirt cheap you can just leave it in over night.
I just did a binge watch from the Ball tank to the Baby StuG. Your videos and explanations are getting better and better. The improvement in your voice overs is great. Thank you for the great videos and overall content.
I'm going to strip all the paint from the tracks from my unfinished Karl Gerät and redo it, once I come home for semester break. Thanks, this is exactly what I needed!
The most enjoyable part of your videos is your delivery and explanations, (you're also a dedicated modeler with serious chops). Your techniques are informative and have made me a slightly better modeler as well. Thanks for being here.,
Thanks so much for this tutorial Uncle Night Shift! I have just purchased a set of Friulmodel tracks for a Kfz 250 halftrack, which I have yet to assemble and weather. I was a bit intimidated about the weathering process, but you have shown me that it can be done effectively with a little patience. I love your videos, and like all your subscribers and fans, I admire your skills and the lighthearted way in which you share them with us. Keep the coming! Cheers from Australia.
Thanks to you, i began re-building my totally failed AMX-13 from Tamiya. I built it 4 years ago and I made terrable red and black camo (idk why) so I started from beginning. I just wanted to say thank you that you gave me these useful tips and tricks to make models better. Keep you good job and have nice day 😊😊😊
I've personally found that using straightened out staples instead of the wire that the tracks come with works really well and means that more often than not you dont need to use much if any super glue, also, on the subject of calling burnished surface "like a Primer" well, its called Red Oxide Primer for a reason, its actually a method that has been used to "prime" metal Surfaces for a really long time. Really enjoyed this video, Thanks a lot Martin! ~J
Many people seem to enjoy the staple method. However you don't need to use superglue in most cases, friction holds the wire in place if the tracks are wide enough.
@@NightShiftScaleModels very true, "hair-pinning" the wire tends to help, putting a bend in the middle of the wire so it acts as a spring. Though I also like the staples because they tend to be the right length, so no excess clipping.
Another great video, man. I wish more youtubers would follow your method of creating content. I like to listen to instructional videos like yours when I am at the bench. I can't do that with a lot of other channels that just display subtitles. Any way, love the channel and keep them coming.
I use this same technique but never thought to brush the burnishing fluid on. The stuff ain't cheap so that's the way I'll go from now on. Thanks for the money-saving tip Martin! Cheers! What if you added the grass after the first coup[e coats of paint with PVA, that may help things stick better.
I love the burnished look so much that I think I would hardly have added anything to it. Love your attention to detail, though! Keep the good stuff coming!
One of the airbrush sized sand blasters works great for roughing them up to get paint to adhere. Cold bluing also gets them nice and dark like real ones.
The outside of the tracks is in rubber (covered with mud they look good), the inner of the tracks would be metal too where the wheels are in contact... It's still a good work! 🤩
Wow! I had no idea that this product existed. This is one of the many reasons why I love your videos. You show a lot of various useful products and tools.
Another good video as always. Please, could you make a short special video to show your stuff et tips about taking photos like your camera, set up (light box or other thing), etc.? Thank you man ! I'm a big fan !!
yey a nightshift video, and I'm early and always willin' to learn new tips and recipes. You're hands down my fave painter for all things weathering, metal parts(welds), texturing and attention to detail.
Great result with those simple techniques. The tracks looks awesome. Can't wait to see this model finished. Could you tell us what will be your next project?
Novacan black patian for lead and pewter, a craft project for blackening stained glass beading, is cheap and works as good or better than the expensive "model" brands.
Out here debating whether you should have made it a separate video or not and question the need for it to be a separate one Meanwhile im over here out of my gorde because papa nightshift posted another video :P
Hey Night Shift. I’m not sure if you’re aware of this technique or not, but I haven’t seen you use it, so will try to explain it. If you hold a toothpick or similar in front of the nozzle of your airbrush (about 5mm out from the needle) when spraying, it will collect paint on the toothpick, and then the air pressure flicks it off in splotches. The result is similar to when you’re flicking with a paint brush, but you can direct it more easily. I hope it makes sense. Give it a go and let me know what you think (unless you already do it, in which case tell me to shut up and crawl back under my rock :D )
I prefer metal tracks, countless times the tracks end up costing more than the model itself. That part is not cool. I use your rusty track technique and love it. I Will certainly try the muddy version soon. Thanks for the video
I think made a solicitación to the UN or the FMi or also mr geogito Soros to reduce the price of the metal tracks, I think is my last alternative. Great work Martin !!!
Hi Uncle - Fruil tracks are great... expensive, but great. However never used burnishing fluid before - might give it a go, looks pretty easy. You and Panzermeister36 doing some weird thought transferance? Great vid, thanks for sharing.
Before I started using the burnishing fluid the paint wouldn't hold on the bare shiny metal and would easily flake off. It definitely makes working with them easier and more efficient. And it's just a coincidence 😃
It is the small things that makes model interesting👌 can you do a video about heavy cast texture some near time, and point out if its different for u.s. and soviet tanks, please 🥺🙏
Uncle Night Shift. Talk on the Stretch Sprue. If you dont mind in what way to you Stretch the Sprue?? And how long it to get of the thickness?? Havent done it for a long time. Got the hang of it. But to burn the fingers OUCH!!! On a fix income so doing the old ways. By this and by mixing of paints. For now looking at spure.!!
Paradne video ako vzdy :) Uplne mega :) Som len trocha zufaly ze tie Wilder veci co pouzivas sa nikde nedaju zohnat v Europe :) Vedel by mi ich ale asi kamarat doniest. Vedel by si mi prosimta odporucit nejake univerzalne veci od nich, alebo akoze zakladne co vyuzijem krizom krazom? Ked uz to budem objednavat tak nech naraz :)
I think that with your experience it would be nice to share your thoughts about vinyl tracks, that this sh.. does not glue well, they can be short or too long, not all paint holds on them, etc.
I sprayed my tank with red primer to emulate German red primer since I am going for that late war look. I wanted to spray certain areas with black then resorts them with the primer in an attempt to do some shadows or simple modulation? I don’t have an airbrush do you think this is possible with just cans? Is there a good way to remove paint without destroying the plastic? Thanks for all the help!
If you plan on using that as an underlying coat for Dark yellow then yeah. You can maybe spray black paint from the bottom and then spray the Oxide red from above, however this will only work as a sort of pre-shading if you're going to cover it with camouflage. If you're going for a factory fresh tank in oxide primer, then I'd create the shadows with oil paints, WAY more control.
I had another idea. Have you tried electrolytic plating these pot metal links... or other metal parts? I recently played around with plating things with copper and iron with a simple setup. If you plated the links with iron you should be able to rust them with bleach. The effect should be quite gnarly... and dirty... and would need to be sealed somehow unless you want to leave scale skid marks on everything... lol... that might be neat actually for a display.
did you say "just a creepy recap" (10:20)? I can't make out but it was funny none the less in my mind. great looking tracks.. the small details like the graphite make the difference between downstairs den model on a curio cabinet and a concourse model. just wondering do you get paid for any modeling?
@@NightShiftScaleModels yeah was just wondering if anyone paid for your art. you ever venture outside armor? i'd love to see your take on something like an f1 or sportbike.. since they have incredible detail. creepy recap sounds funnier tho. great work my friend.
@@mestapho2011 Thanks, I tried different things in the past but ended up enjoying armor the most. I might try to do something else in the future, but we'll have to wait for that!
I’ve got some Vallejo mud texture, and I’m going to use that for mud effects but I’m not sure if it can be Cleaned and blended like with what you used?
Uncle night shift, I just got an airbrush. The only paints I have are enamels and cheap acrylics, are these good for airbrushing or should I get something else?
I am a complete newby as far as using an airbrush; but I know two very experienced modellers. Both recommend Tamiya as they feel it's reliable, straightforward to use and provides a decent finish.
Couldn't you just soak it in vinegar? It would take more time but will be next to free. Alternatively you could use an acid etch primer... or a super etch. It should cover on the super glue as well... maybe spray them before assembly?
@@NightShiftScaleModels You are the exact opposite of lazy :) I enjoy your videos but have too many other hobbies. It is nice to experience the hobby vicariously though. Keep up the good work!
Yooo seems like my and Panzermeister36's upload schedule lined up just right and we posted the same video today 😅
If you're interested check out his vid as well for a slightly different approach: ua-cam.com/video/8IvBMYtBNmI/v-deo.html
I thought collaboration was afoot! 😎
@@SmallSoldier that would have required thinking ahead :D
@@Panzermeister36 😄👌
That was great. I'm sure most of us will agree, but shorter videos covering just one technique like this are great as they're concise and not confusing. It's a single step of the process, so it being its own video (separate from the lower hull weathering) makes more sense.
Seeing you add the grass reminded me that I need to add some snow to my T-40 tracks. I completely forgot lol :)
Stupid grass wouldn't hold in place and after finishing the model there were like 5 strands that made it to the very end, but I didn't want to go the extra mile and use superglue to fix them. Can't wait for some bigger tracks, these small ones are like... you spend some time on them, but in the end it still looks kinda meh cuz they're just too tiny 😅
Snow makes everything look better, go for it!
@@NightShiftScaleModels Bigger tracks...like Panther tracks maybe? ;)
Hey chemist here again: You can probably make the burnishing fluid from white vinegar and steel wool. Leave it in over night, brush the vinegar on. Tin (the main part of white metal) is subject to Iron Accretion, that is to say, if there is dissolved iron oxide in contact with it the iron oxide (good old rust) will start to stick. It is probably in the form of Iron Acetate (which is greenish and used to stain wood, like the solution in the bottle), and that's safe and easy to make. They might have a stronger acid, so it's faster, but since home made is dirt cheap you can just leave it in over night.
I'm so happy ive found this channel, im very new into modeling, and youve been an amazing help
I just did a binge watch from the Ball tank to the Baby StuG. Your videos and explanations are getting better and better. The improvement in your voice overs is great. Thank you for the great videos and overall content.
I'm going to strip all the paint from the tracks from my unfinished Karl Gerät and redo it, once I come home for semester break. Thanks, this is exactly what I needed!
Brave soul!
Since it's June as I am typing this, how did the strip&repaint go?
The most enjoyable part of your videos is your delivery and explanations, (you're also a dedicated modeler with serious chops).
Your techniques are informative and have made me a slightly better modeler as well. Thanks for being here.,
Thanks for this - this is really helpful as I move to weather my first set of completed Friul tracks
Thanks so much for this tutorial Uncle Night Shift!
I have just purchased a set of Friulmodel tracks for a Kfz 250 halftrack, which I have yet to assemble and weather. I was a bit intimidated about the weathering process, but you have shown me that it can be done effectively with a little patience.
I love your videos, and like all your subscribers and fans, I admire your skills and the lighthearted way in which you share them with us.
Keep the coming!
Cheers from Australia.
Thanks to you, i began re-building my totally failed AMX-13 from Tamiya. I built it 4 years ago and I made terrable red and black camo (idk why) so I started from beginning. I just wanted to say thank you that you gave me these useful tips and tricks to make models better. Keep you good job and have nice day 😊😊😊
Looks awesome, Uncle. Best modeller ever.
Uncle NightShift cheers!!! This build is coming out great as usual like all your builds do! Looking forward to the finish!
I've personally found that using straightened out staples instead of the wire that the tracks come with works really well and means that more often than not you dont need to use much if any super glue, also, on the subject of calling burnished surface "like a Primer" well, its called Red Oxide Primer for a reason, its actually a method that has been used to "prime" metal Surfaces for a really long time.
Really enjoyed this video, Thanks a lot Martin!
~J
Many people seem to enjoy the staple method. However you don't need to use superglue in most cases, friction holds the wire in place if the tracks are wide enough.
@@NightShiftScaleModels very true, "hair-pinning" the wire tends to help, putting a bend in the middle of the wire so it acts as a spring. Though I also like the staples because they tend to be the right length, so no excess clipping.
Martine, jako vždy nádherné video a skvělý komentář. Díky moc a těším se na závěrečnou epizodu této minisérie!
Ďakujem!
Another great video, man. I wish more youtubers would follow your method of creating content. I like to listen to instructional videos like yours when I am at the bench. I can't do that with a lot of other channels that just display subtitles. Any way, love the channel and keep them coming.
I’m a humble man,
I click,
I like,
then I watch the video :)
:D Same here
Funny, I remember somebody watching ASMR Amy saying just about the same thing.....
I use this same technique but never thought to brush the burnishing fluid on. The stuff ain't cheap so that's the way I'll go from now on. Thanks for the money-saving tip Martin! Cheers! What if you added the grass after the first coup[e coats of paint with PVA, that may help things stick better.
I love the burnished look so much that I think I would hardly have added anything to it. Love your attention to detail, though! Keep the good stuff coming!
One of the airbrush sized sand blasters works great for roughing them up to get paint to adhere. Cold bluing also gets them nice and dark like real ones.
As always, another great video. You have inspired me to get the Borgward version of this model. Thanks Martin
The outside of the tracks is in rubber (covered with mud they look good), the inner of the tracks would be metal too where the wheels are in contact... It's still a good work! 🤩
Wow! I had no idea that this product existed. This is one of the many reasons why I love your videos. You show a lot of various useful products and tools.
Spectacular! Amazing work! I wish I was your friend and neighbor!
Another good video as always. Please, could you make a short special video to show your stuff et tips about taking photos like your camera, set up (light box or other thing), etc.? Thank you man ! I'm a big fan !!
A quick update/tutorial but still very informative and useful.
Thank you.
Tony
Watching your videos both inspires and terrifies me about painting vehicles.
Каждое видео очень полезное и интересное! Рад, что есть такой контент!
Finaly after long time had some time to enjoy the full video in peace and calm of the friday evening
yey a nightshift video, and I'm early and always willin' to learn new tips and recipes. You're hands down my fave painter for all things weathering, metal parts(welds), texturing and attention to detail.
You beautifully looking human! Thank you! Just took delivery of my first set of Friulmodel tracks and you come up with this! Awesome!
Very nice! I'll try your techniques on my T34-85, it's my first time weathering a big tank so fingers crossed! Very helpful tutorial :)
Another great video 👍 I found it very helpful in weathering my Panther tracks.
Excellent as always. G’day from Australia mate.
Amazing work. Absolutely brilliant. I wish I could do that. Maybe after years of practice. Thank you for sharing. 👍🏻
MARTIN!!! You beautiful human. Those tracks are amazing!
Yay! It is Friday and uncle Night Shift is back! EDIT (after finishing video) great build mate! It looks handsome af. Cheers!
Great result with those simple techniques. The tracks looks awesome.
Can't wait to see this model finished.
Could you tell us what will be your next project?
When you said "shorter video" I yelled "NO!" out loud
Oh.. you answered my question. Thanks.
Great result, very informative and helpfull, also the length of your videos is absolute ok for me, keep your way please
Instant like! Great footage, thank you for sharing!
And of course, it's relaxing to watch someone else do this....
It is that moment, when I think it is a pity there is no Friulmodels tracks in 1/72 scale... Great video! ;)
Thank you , Martin .
Again a great video!
Great job, my friend, great job! ... And now... a dioramaaaaaaaa for this!!
Hugs.
Excellent!
Novacan black patian for lead and pewter, a craft project for blackening stained glass beading, is cheap and works as good or better than the expensive "model" brands.
1k likes
0 dislikes
Good job mate👌
Out here debating whether you should have made it a separate video or not and question the need for it to be a separate one
Meanwhile im over here out of my gorde because papa nightshift posted another video :P
I enjoy what you do here on your channel, Cheers bud :-)
Outstanding job!!
Hey Night Shift. I’m not sure if you’re aware of this technique or not, but I haven’t seen you use it, so will try to explain it. If you hold a toothpick or similar in front of the nozzle of your airbrush (about 5mm out from the needle) when spraying, it will collect paint on the toothpick, and then the air pressure flicks it off in splotches. The result is similar to when you’re flicking with a paint brush, but you can direct it more easily. I hope it makes sense. Give it a go and let me know what you think (unless you already do it, in which case tell me to shut up and crawl back under my rock :D )
I prefer metal tracks, countless times the tracks end up costing more than the model itself. That part is not cool.
I use your rusty track technique and love it. I Will certainly try the muddy version soon. Thanks for the video
I think made a solicitación to the UN or the FMi or also mr geogito Soros to reduce the price of the metal tracks, I think is my last alternative. Great work Martin !!!
Muddy! Nice work as always :)
wasn't expecting a video today but yaaaay
why not? I post every Friday 😄
@@NightShiftScaleModels the week went very fast for me😂 purchased a new model and been building it since
Again....WOW ❤️
As usual a very good video. Additional i like the summary at the end of the video.
Love in it 😉👌
Hi Uncle - Fruil tracks are great... expensive, but great. However never used burnishing fluid before - might give it a go, looks pretty easy.
You and Panzermeister36 doing some weird thought transferance?
Great vid, thanks for sharing.
Before I started using the burnishing fluid the paint wouldn't hold on the bare shiny metal and would easily flake off. It definitely makes working with them easier and more efficient.
And it's just a coincidence 😃
Bookmarked!!
It is the small things that makes model interesting👌 can you do a video about heavy cast texture some near time, and point out if its different for u.s. and soviet tanks, please 🥺🙏
Uncle Night Shift. Talk on the Stretch Sprue. If you dont mind in what way to you Stretch the Sprue?? And how long it to get of the thickness?? Havent done it for a long time. Got the hang of it. But to burn the fingers OUCH!!! On a fix income so doing the old ways. By this and by mixing of paints. For now looking at spure.!!
Привет! Крутое видео!🙌👍 Спасибо тебе)
i challenge you, to work with tamiya rubber band tracks! i would love to see what you can do with them.
Yes
Paradne video ako vzdy :) Uplne mega :) Som len trocha zufaly ze tie Wilder veci co pouzivas sa nikde nedaju zohnat v Europe :) Vedel by mi ich ale asi kamarat doniest. Vedel by si mi prosimta odporucit nejake univerzalne veci od nich, alebo akoze zakladne co vyuzijem krizom krazom? Ked uz to budem objednavat tak nech naraz :)
First. I win nothing!
Panzermeister36 💵💵💵💵here’s your cash prize😉😂
Hahaaaa second!
@@havanadog7987 great, I'll need that cash to buy Friulmodel tracks....cause they're usually like twice the price of the kit. RIP
I just got the motivation to paint my Sherman firefly so I go to airbrush it and then boom. Power cut.
Another great vid.....just one little thing....did you notice that one of the tracks is on the wrong way around...just saying.
You can use cold blue for guns and it does the same thing
I think that with your experience it would be nice to share your thoughts about vinyl tracks, that this sh.. does not glue well, they can be short or too long, not all paint holds on them, etc.
off topic but whats your favorite tank you've built so far?
Bonjour, c'est quoi cet sorte de crayon que vous frotter sur les chenilles ? Merci et beau travail.
why not sand the inner side of the tracks like you did with the cleats? and what do you think about using diluted plaster for mud?
I sprayed my tank with red primer to emulate German red primer since I am going for that late war look. I wanted to spray certain areas with black then resorts them with the primer in an attempt to do some shadows or simple modulation? I don’t have an airbrush do you think this is possible with just cans? Is there a good way to remove paint without destroying the plastic? Thanks for all the help!
If you plan on using that as an underlying coat for Dark yellow then yeah. You can maybe spray black paint from the bottom and then spray the Oxide red from above, however this will only work as a sort of pre-shading if you're going to cover it with camouflage. If you're going for a factory fresh tank in oxide primer, then I'd create the shadows with oil paints, WAY more control.
I had another idea. Have you tried electrolytic plating these pot metal links... or other metal parts? I recently played around with plating things with copper and iron with a simple setup. If you plated the links with iron you should be able to rust them with bleach. The effect should be quite gnarly... and dirty... and would need to be sealed somehow unless you want to leave scale skid marks on everything... lol... that might be neat actually for a display.
That actually sounds really intimidating!
@@NightShiftScaleModels lol... hmmmm... now I want to try it.
when are you going to post the vids on the tiger f13?
After the burnishing do you need to rinse tracks in water to neutralise any chemical reaction?
Uncle Shift, can you make a video about the trumpeter BMP-3 Armor Upgrade kit?
The one I built about 2 years ago? What about it? 😁
Great video and I learned even more!!!! Now question would that burnishing fluid work on metal parts on a 15mm flames of war war gaming tank or no?
It should, but I haven't had much trouble with the tracks on my tanks not holding paint. I use Rust-Oleum black for priming, though.
Hi Martin, great result as always! When you apply the product of wilder to the tracks, do you have to remove the excess product with water?
Yeah it's good to wash them in soapy water afterwards!
Hey Night Shift, where did you get your silicone brush??
did you say "just a creepy recap" (10:20)? I can't make out but it was funny none the less in my mind. great looking tracks.. the small details like the graphite make the difference between downstairs den model on a curio cabinet and a concourse model. just wondering do you get paid for any modeling?
Quick recap 😄
I don't really do commissions or anything of that sort if that's what you're asking.
@@NightShiftScaleModels yeah was just wondering if anyone paid for your art. you ever venture outside armor? i'd love to see your take on something like an f1 or sportbike.. since they have incredible detail. creepy recap sounds funnier tho. great work my friend.
@@mestapho2011 Thanks, I tried different things in the past but ended up enjoying armor the most. I might try to do something else in the future, but we'll have to wait for that!
I’ve got some Vallejo mud texture, and I’m going to use that for mud effects but I’m not sure if it can be Cleaned and blended like with what you used?
It's acrylic, so it needs to be cleaned up with water before it dries.
How do you keep your models dust free before painting?
I wash them in soapy water just before painting.
@@NightShiftScaleModels what if you have many small details and it's very fragile?
@@BossyBennyyt Then I'm extra careful 😁I mostly use big soft brushes and carefully work the foam into every crevice and then just rinse with water.
@@NightShiftScaleModels ok, thanks for answering
Uncle night shift, I just got an airbrush. The only paints I have are enamels and cheap acrylics, are these good for airbrushing or should I get something else?
I think Tamiya paints are your best bet. If you begin with good quality paints from the get go, you'll learn how to work with your AB much faster 👌
Night Shift sweet. Thanks for the tip!
I am a complete newby as far as using an airbrush; but I know two very experienced modellers.
Both recommend Tamiya as they feel it's reliable, straightforward to use and provides a decent finish.
Build a challenger 2 from RFM :D
Couldn't you just soak it in vinegar? It would take more time but will be next to free. Alternatively you could use an acid etch primer... or a super etch. It should cover on the super glue as well... maybe spray them before assembly?
Well yeah, there are multiple options, vinegar + salt, another one is some mixture of chemicals, but I never tried those cuz I'm lazy lol
@@NightShiftScaleModels You are the exact opposite of lazy :) I enjoy your videos but have too many other hobbies. It is nice to experience the hobby vicariously though. Keep up the good work!
SOOOOO early
2nd
They call that "burnishing fluid" when what it does is exactly opposite of what the word "burnishing" means?
Yeah, that was confusing me, too.
Hairy tracks
Why don’t you like to use wet pigments as mud?
Yiu
gravel and sand fixer? watered down white glue wouldn't work just as well? gravel and sand fixer - - - that seems like extra expense to me
i guess i shouldn't argue because your models are killer a$$ :)
basic you say? I toke a full notebook of tips! :|
creepy uncle night shift
I cannot personally justify spending $50.00+ USD for metal tracks. Plus many seem overscale.
Early...