Thanks for watching legends Hot the comments, what should I do? Personally I think I should press on with the original plan and lay the new braid where needed.
😂the trials and tribulations 😂 great update brother…looking forward to seeing what you decide to do… I noticed quite a few good suggestions in the messages… hhmmm
I would be patient and wait for the correct size braid and replace all the braid on the track, you have so much time invested already and it is a wood track, you will want to get it right and you will be happy you did in the end. good luck whichever way you go,
Looks like you're having a great time putting this track together despite the challenges you have encountered! Just great to see it all come together! There are always issues to contend with which provide great stories to tell when the build is complete! Keep at it! Looking forward to the next installment!
What i would do as I’ve done with all my track builds, if the braid is still good on the corner you are going to rip up but is not long enough to put under the track. 8:40 pull it up a few inches and drill a hole with enough length to tuck under and add a new piece to the same hole and to the join and under. Saves a lot of work and braid. I’d also wait and try get 1/4 inch braid. I can provide a pic if needed
Since you bought the braid already, you could wait for the size you want from SCB if they'll exchange it. In the meantime, the quickest and easiest reversable fix to get the track running while you wait.
I would definitely pass on option 2. Why? Every joint is an oppurtunity for issues with conductivity. You are overlooking another option that I would call Option 1B. Make a small set of rollers to pass the braid through that compresses the braid slightly and will widen the braid. Think of the old school washing machine that had a hand operated wringer.
@@roberthill2219 you're not going to adjust the height (thickness) any more then 1mm. Probably more like .5mm Plus braids in cars can always be bent down just a hair more for contact.
SCG. It seems that you are making this harder than need be. My suggestion is this. Align all the joints by using 1/8 or whatever your slot width is and fasten all the parts, ie screw it down. Drill your 1/4 " holes at the start and end of each lane, excluding the area where you may have a dead strip for timing. Put enough braid through the start hole to allow for connections , say 6". Then run your braid all the way around to the exit hole and feed down , again leaving 6". Your track is not large enough to reguire a bunch of power taps. One continuous braid on each side of the slot is more than sufficient. Make sure the braid is either flush or a hair below the track surface, flush is best. It creates no Ridge for tires to jump when sliding. With the narrower braid, you can put it to the outside of the gains wher the original braid went. Or wait for the right size braid. Do not thin the braid since your gains are already cut. Best of luck mate . Dont make more work for yourself. Cheers Bob
Use some CRC or other such electronic parts cleaner on your corroded braid, stop worrying about the braid being too narrow, use set screws and jumpers at every joint. I just helped putting together 3 used routed tracks... relax, Mate!
Travis, I was going to describe the hole drilling method of bridging gaps, but I just found Harry at Home Racing World has a video of it and pictures worth a thousand words : ua-cam.com/video/UF081fWaLYo/v-deo.html Although Harry is using the method for just power taps, you could lift up about 60 mm or so of braid at each end of joints then use the hole also for new braid to bridge the gaps between the pieces and the lifted sections of existing braid. This helps make all the braid pieces have enough extra length un fixed down braid available to take them well below the track for reliable electrical joining. No bumps of braid on braid with this method and the joined sections only need a small length of new braid to bridge the gap of where the old braid was lifted to provide below the wood access. The new braid going down the same holes, twisting or folding in the hole if needed. The holes being so small and out of the slot , should not provide any problems for the cars. The slightly narrow braid you have should not be a problem for short lengths need to cover the joins. So no expense and delay of sending back and getting a new supply of braid. Hope this helps.
do it once do it right option A mate if you can't get new braid to size I no you eager to get it up and running but do it once my friend so you never have to re do again
Thanks for watching legends
Hot the comments, what should I do?
Personally I think I should press on with the original plan and lay the new braid where needed.
Press on and I am sure it will be fine, nothing is ever perfect and no reason it won't be fine.
😂the trials and tribulations 😂 great update brother…looking forward to seeing what you decide to do… I noticed quite a few good suggestions in the messages… hhmmm
I would be patient and wait for the correct size braid and replace all the braid on the track, you have so much time invested already and it is a wood track, you will want to get it right and you will be happy you did in the end. good luck whichever way you go,
I'd use what you've got as it's only a small section of track to do, at least then you could get to use your track.
Adapt and overcome.... Excellent video Trav!!! Mistakes/hiccups are gonna happen... In the end, if it works, It's irrelevant.
Stay Slotted 🐷🤙🏻
Love the positive attitude legend..full steam ahead
@@thatslotcarguy Always 💯🐷🤙🏻
Looks like you're having a great time putting this track together despite the challenges you have encountered! Just great to see it all come together! There are always issues to contend with which provide great stories to tell when the build is complete! Keep at it! Looking forward to the next installment!
Hi Travis for me it would be option 3 but you must go with what you are most comfortable with. great video again mate 👍
In Many tracks it is used copper tape, the conductivity is good with that
Hi ya Travis
If it was be I would do option 2 to get going then when time allows do option 1
👍👍
Travis…idea three sounds best to me. You will be happier having the track as you like it best.
G'day Travis option 3 safe bet
What i would do as I’ve done with all my track builds, if the braid is still good on the corner you are going to rip up but is not long enough to put under the track. 8:40 pull it up a few inches and drill a hole with enough length to tuck under and add a new piece to the same hole and to the join and under. Saves a lot of work and braid. I’d also wait and try get 1/4 inch braid. I can provide a pic if needed
Since you bought the braid already, you could wait for the size you want from SCB if they'll exchange it. In the meantime, the quickest and easiest reversable fix to get the track running while you wait.
I would definitely pass on option 2. Why? Every joint is an oppurtunity for issues with conductivity. You are overlooking another option that I would call Option 1B. Make a small set of rollers to pass the braid through that compresses the braid slightly and will widen the braid. Think of the old school washing machine that had a hand operated wringer.
Awesome idea
It's the HEIGHT of the braid that's most important...
@@roberthill2219 you're not going to adjust the height (thickness) any more then 1mm. Probably more like .5mm
Plus braids in cars can always be bent down just a hair more for contact.
@@thatslotcarguy I have my moments 😂
Your track is going to be awesome! I’ll grab my DiFalco controller and be right over!
Tracks is gone now bud lol
Just go for it I doubt you will even notice the high spots. If so just adds some character to the track
If the braid isn't correct u can always use copper tape
SCG. It seems that you are making this harder than need be.
My suggestion is this.
Align all the joints by using 1/8 or whatever your slot width is and fasten all the parts, ie screw it down.
Drill your 1/4 " holes at the start and end of each lane, excluding the area where you may have a dead strip for timing. Put enough braid through the start hole to allow for connections , say 6".
Then run your braid all the way around to the exit hole and feed down , again leaving 6".
Your track is not large enough to reguire a bunch of power taps.
One continuous braid on each side of the slot is more than sufficient.
Make sure the braid is either flush or a hair below the track surface, flush is best. It creates no Ridge for tires to jump when sliding. With the narrower braid, you can put it to the outside of the gains wher the original braid went.
Or wait for the right size braid. Do not thin the braid since your gains are already cut.
Best of luck mate .
Dont make more work for yourself.
Cheers
Bob
My track is coming together now quickly. I just don't want to rush ANYTHING!
Any pics to share
@@thatslotcarguy gladly if I can figure out how to do it.
Can't you solder the briad under the table and wire up to right areas
Don't forget hit the like !
Cheers mate
Awesome video content bro
Option 3 if possible. If this is not possible I would go for Option 1.
Can't wait 🤩🚘
Use some CRC or other such electronic parts cleaner on your corroded braid, stop worrying about the braid being too narrow, use set screws and jumpers at every joint. I just helped putting together 3 used routed tracks... relax, Mate!
You keep saying relax, I'm cool as a cucumber legend, just bring you guys along for the ride
I bet you can get the correct size from them. Wait to see and if not option one.
Correct size would most diffently be available , my little error lol
@@thatslotcarguy No problem Travis I'm so enjoying your journey and all the fun you are having. It all makes for a better world!
Travis, I was going to describe the hole drilling method of bridging gaps, but I just found Harry at Home Racing World has a video of it and pictures worth a thousand words :
ua-cam.com/video/UF081fWaLYo/v-deo.html
Although Harry is using the method for just power taps, you could lift up about 60 mm or so of braid at each end of joints then use the hole also for new braid to bridge the gaps between the pieces and the lifted sections of existing braid. This helps make all the braid pieces have enough extra length un fixed down braid available to take them well below the track for reliable electrical joining.
No bumps of braid on braid with this method and the joined sections only need a small length of new braid to bridge the gap of where the old braid was lifted to provide below the wood access. The new braid going down the same holes, twisting or folding in the hole if needed. The holes being so small and out of the slot , should not provide any problems for the cars.
The slightly narrow braid you have should not be a problem for short lengths need to cover the joins. So no expense and delay of sending back and getting a new supply of braid.
Hope this helps.
Don’t rush, do it right. Option 3.
Option 3
do it once do it right option A mate if you can't get new braid to size I no you eager to get it up and running but do it once my friend so you never have to re do again
Wait and rebraid the entire track.
If wider braid is not available, rebraid the entire track with the thinner braid.
I WOULD GO WIDE AS POSS
A slight gap won't kill you, it's the HEIGHT of the installed braid that's important...