Surf Simply's Question Time: Reef Breaks + Does Wave Size Influence Surfboard Size?
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- In this weeks episode of Question Time, Harry talks through surfboard size relative to wave size, and the wave mechanics of reef breaks. If you have a surfing related question, don't forget to write it in the comments.
If you're interested in our coaching and seminars, visit surfsimply.com or email info@surfsimply.com for more information.
Questions from this episode:
Is there a rule for length of surfboard relative to size of wave, if all the other characteristics are identical? Rheda Borges
How do waves break at reef breaks? Will Duncan
would love a session on forecasting and extrapolating this to a local coastline tide times etc.
Hi Kato, we are just starting a handful of wave forecasting episodes for the Surfing Explained series. The first one is released tomorrow at 2pm!
Perfect, thanks!
Would also love a tutorial on drills and exercises for a surf skate. I have a smoothstar which even with no advice has made a difference
Yes I definitely agree with this!
Harry, as usual great info. Been following you guys ever since your first podcast. I have a question hope you can help. Is there a golden rule on how many waves come in a set relative to the swell size and period???
Very interesting. Thanks. Now can you explain the voodoo going on during nose riding?
We might do in the future Ron, we run 1-1 workshops if you’re curious where we go through the science mechanics of noserides! If you would like more information, email us on Info@surfsimply.com
If I'm a tall surfer but have a naturally narrow stance. How can I overcome the issue whereby my front foot is where it should be for the gas pedal, but my back foot is too far forward for turns? When I move my back foot back and leave the front foot where it is (and should be) my stance feels uncomfortably wide. Should I be surfing a shorter but thicker board instead?
you are the cutest nerdiest surfer ever
Oh that's interesting, I would have thought a board with less volume than your daily driver would be better on big days so you can duck-dive deeper and get out the back more efficiently? What are your thoughts on that?
So for summer i enjoyed 36liter.6.0
For 2_4 fit.And in the winter i need let say 34liter 6.1 with more rocker?for 4_5fit waves?
The need for rocker is relative to the steepness of the wave, not specifically the wave size. As you can have a big wave thats soft, or a small wave thats steep. So if your waves get steeper as they get bigger, then yes more rocker could help. But if the waves stay the same softness, then more rocker is not necessary.
@@SurfSimply this is what i try to explain my friends
They buy all many kind of knife 🔪 new boards.and they dont enjoy surfing as i
Thx for the answer.
Sorry for being a surfer, bad at math, but what do you mean by the ratio's 7 :1 and others mentioned in the video?
Ha ha I'm actually serious! Please divulge!
Damm this is a one hella of a good education lesson.
Teach us how and where to find beaches with potentially good waves by looking at underwater floor maps.
This might be a bit far fetched. But seriously. How do u find a good beach to surf if u dont know anyone who has already been there.
Isn’t it better to surf bigger boards so that you can earn your turn? Isn’t it not better to drill down the fundamentals with a longer board?
Absolutely Miguel
Outstanding explanation! Love your channel. My question - would you explain the difference between a quad and thruster fin set up. Thanks!
ua-cam.com/video/bg5pcEep7-A/v-deo.html
Hi BP, if you follow Stuart’s link you’ll find our episode on the function of fins where we explain those differences! Thanks Stuart for linking!
I really love to see your videos even my English not so good.I have a suggestion is good to put some picture beside when you make some example like who ride the board for more fit to the wave(sorry I forgot the name😅).
I'm not too sure what size board i should get for a barreling reef break, I'm thinking about either a 6.0 pyzel ghost just to get down the line but I'm worried that's going to be too small. What size do you think. Also the reefs i surf are powerful, but not Hawaiian powerful kind of wave
Hi Fresh, If you think it might be too small, then it’ll probably be too small. More volume for getting in early, and a longer rail line for better grip and speed generation whilst in the tube are often undervalued. Choose wisely and let us know the results!!
@@SurfSimply thanks bra
Very good explanation about how the waves break!
lots of good stuff to discuss with waves and surfing - wave groups, directional spreading, frequency spreading:)!
Yes indeed!
really enjoying the show! Can you teach/explain how to read swell projections and surf reports? I've tried teaching myself a few times but walk away still not getting it.
Thanks for the suggestion Aiden, we've just started a series on forecasting! Here is Episode 1: ua-cam.com/video/7KSiiUMO7Bc/v-deo.html
Thank you very much for the great content!! For me it would be very interesting to understand, why waves are building sets of waves, after traveled a long distance threw the ocean?
Hi Niklas, we are producing a series on waves and surf forecasting right now. Episode 1 is already out, and Episode 2 is out on Friday. Ep 1: ua-cam.com/video/7KSiiUMO7Bc/v-deo.html
Kelly’s board winning pipe in 2009 wasn’t called the wizard sleeve! It was called the Deep Six!
He was surfing Micronesia that year on a 10ft wave with a 5’4 Wizard Sleeve.
Thanks Stephen!
Surf Simply no worries, I happen to know since I was looking to get one made for me a few years later for an Indo trip 😁. Unfortunately or rather fortunate that it wasn’t possible, and ended up with a regular step up board.
Thank you ! Very helpful !
Two questions for you!!
- What happens if the wave hits a big change in deepness abruptly (maybe the ocean floor changes from sand to rock which is a couple meters higher)?
- Which are the advantages and disadvantages of futures vs fcs fin systems?
Thanks so much for your videos, they really help!!!!!
For question 1, waves like Pipeline and Teahupo'o break with exactly what you're asking about; a huge amount of energy release in a short space - both from a reef beginning out of fairly deep water.
Question 2: There is no specific advantage outside of practicality. The FCS 2 fin box is incredibly quick to instal and remove so they are my personal preference (not a company endorsement). Both manufacturers feature many different designs so you would be short on options with either brand.
@@SurfSimply Thank you!!
Super interesting. Thanks.
My pleasure!
Yew first!
Aaawkay
You guys are awesome. Thank you
Thanks Kevin!
Awesome, thank you, I love watching these! I'd love to learn a bit more about navigating beach breaks specifically. Why is it, for example, in New York (where I live) most beaches generally close out with anything over 10 seconds, however in Costa Rica or Mexico (Puerto Escondito), they easily handle longer period swell? Also, with beach breaks constantly changing, do you have any tips or tricks on how to navigate the lineup? I never understand how some people just intuitively move around a beach break as the session progresses and find the wave as it moves with the sandbar so effortlessly!