Excellent lesson sir! It is brilliant of you to use LED diodes in building your demonstration full bridge rectifier, as it allowed you to visually demonstrate how alternating current psses through the alternate current paths for every polarity change (frequency/hertz), once you dropped the frequency below a human's persistence of vision threshold. You would have been the #1, ULTIMATE electronics theory teacher for me back in 1977!!! Thank You IMSAI Guy for showing the action of the full bride rectifier in this neat video! I just love your videos and teaching style. I bet a lot of people could learn from your "visual" approach to teaching fine sir! Fred (Edited for a typographical error.)
I was pushed to be mindful of the "negative" side when I was working out, in general, a heat pump defrost board. HVAC low voltage is 24 VAC, the board rectified it to operate relays, and also create rails for chips and thermistors. The 24 VAC signals came into the board to ground through power resistors with voltage divider/zener diode taps to the PIC chip pins. But those sensing circuits were to the DC negative rail instead of the AC common even though they were separate from the rectifier. That forced me to not neglect the path back from the DC negative to the AC common as it is usually called. I built a LED full bridge rectifier like in this video to help my mind visualize and accept.
My awakening to the importance of return-path was when my wife complained that the headlights on her car didn't work. I worked on that problem for 3 evenings after work before I noticed that when I pulled up on the headlight dimmer switch the heater fan would run. ???? A couple hours study of the wiring diagram convinced me the only way that could happen is if a ground connection was not good. Checking a multiple lug ground terminal mounted to the body in the left side of the footwell I saw that water had leaked through where the radio antenna was mounted in the fender and dripped right down on to it causing a lot of corrosion. Cleaned it up and the headlights worked just fine.
Great way to visualize the principal. I wish the video was up when i studied power supplies. I was recently looking at the lectenna which is basically a schottky diode working at RF frequencies which rectifies RF power and lights up the LED. You can imagine that it's very ineffective and only works from about a few mm from the power source, however, I was thinking of making a bridge rectifier from schottky diodes and trying to increase the efficiency. What do you think about it?
I have seen flickering well over 5000hz but that is only possible when the object is moving (I see the light on multiple points at once in that case). The highest frequency I have seen while not moving is about 240hz. A lot of lights are driving me absolutely insane.
Out of curiosity, was this a sign wave? I realize that the LEDs have, probably, 3V to turn on, but it seemed they were only on for a brief time. Thanks, for this video, it makes be think of bridges in a different way.
with no capacitor you would have AC. the capacitor stores the energy and creates DC. any capacitor would work. a polarized capacitor is just cheaper and you use them when you can.
Did you power that right from the function generator, or do you have something doing the low-impedence heavy lifting? I have a newish function generator, but I find that I am afraid of killing it. Perhaps if I keep a 50 ohm resistor in there? I may go this route, but even 2 clean watts would be decent as long as it was linear / class-a www.dmcinfo.com/latest-thinking/blog/id/9462/low-cost-function-generator-amplifier-diy ...and try to keep the frequency low enough to keep the G-men from knocking on my door. I think I have some TIP-120s/TIP-125s around, perhaps some old LM358s. Hmmm. chemelec.com/Projects/Amplifier/Amplifier-1.png For the MKII, perhaps some kind of opto-coupling. This is interesting, too: electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/188938/how-to-increase-the-rated-output-voltage-current-by-connecting-multiple-op-amps
powered directly. I've wanted to build a lab amplifier (I have several RF ones) for audio frequencies. HP had a nice one in the olden days. Used it to drive motors to test control circuits.
Just watched the link you sent. Interestingly I had discussed my idea with a friend and he also suggested using a op549. Guess I'll have to get one. Looks indestructible. I had planned on using an audio amp IC with short circuit protection but the op549 seems more lab grade
Simple, well done visual explanation of a component people use without thinking about.
Outstanding demonstration with a training aid that makes understanding what's going on very simple. Thanks for another great video!
Excellent lesson sir! It is brilliant of you to use LED diodes in building your demonstration full bridge rectifier, as it allowed you to visually demonstrate how alternating current psses through the alternate current paths for every polarity change (frequency/hertz), once you dropped the frequency below a human's persistence of vision threshold. You would have been the #1, ULTIMATE electronics theory teacher for me back in 1977!!! Thank You IMSAI Guy for showing the action of the full bride rectifier in this neat video! I just love your videos and teaching style. I bet a lot of people could learn from your "visual" approach to teaching fine sir! Fred
(Edited for a typographical error.)
Excellent explanation and demonstration. The best I've ever seen.
How to boil it down to the bare bones. Excellent presentation. Thank you.
I was pushed to be mindful of the "negative" side when I was working out, in general, a heat pump defrost board. HVAC low voltage is 24 VAC, the board rectified it to operate relays, and also create rails for chips and thermistors. The 24 VAC signals came into the board to ground through power resistors with voltage divider/zener diode taps to the PIC chip pins. But those sensing circuits were to the DC negative rail instead of the AC common even though they were separate from the rectifier. That forced me to not neglect the path back from the DC negative to the AC common as it is usually called.
I built a LED full bridge rectifier like in this video to help my mind visualize and accept.
Very good demo of rectification. Makes the process very clear. Thanks for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
Once more you've produced aninteresting and informative video. Keep them coming!
You have a knack for thinking if things that make us go : "Why didn't i think if that"...lol
Excellent demo! One of my favorite channels. Always like teardowns too
Thank you
Nice idea for a simple video, and helpful for many.
I would mention that adding a few words about the PIV of diodes could also be helpful.
ua-cam.com/video/HsMbxcVAjtE/v-deo.html
My awakening to the importance of return-path was when my wife complained that the headlights on her car didn't work. I worked on that problem for 3 evenings after work before I noticed that when I pulled up on the headlight dimmer switch the heater fan would run. ???? A couple hours study of the wiring diagram convinced me the only way that could happen is if a ground connection was not good. Checking a multiple lug ground terminal mounted to the body in the left side of the footwell I saw that water had leaked through where the radio antenna was mounted in the fender and dripped right down on to it causing a lot of corrosion. Cleaned it up and the headlights worked just fine.
What a great and practical demostration.
Unique, creative demonstration!
👏👏👏👏
Brilliant video, so easy to understand. Good work, keep them coming.
Well explained !!
That was rather interesting. Thank you.
That’s freaking cool. Never thought of doing that.
very nice explanation, this little things will help a lots of users. Regards Helmut
Great explanation! Can you explain the difference between electron flow and current flow??
no thanks
That's a cool bridge rectifier :-)
I've been bit by that concept on power supplies of induction melting supplies years ago. Thanks for the look. Good stuff.
I like to think about how it must have felt to the first person to discover the simple but clever application of diodes. Flicker is flicker LOL
Great way to visualize the principal. I wish the video was up when i studied power supplies.
I was recently looking at the lectenna which is basically a schottky diode working at RF frequencies which rectifies RF power and lights up the LED. You can imagine that it's very ineffective and only works from about a few mm from the power source, however, I was thinking of making a bridge rectifier from schottky diodes and trying to increase the efficiency. What do you think about it?
yes, even better: www.analog.com/en/products/monitor-control-protection/ideal-diode-bridge.html#
I have seen flickering well over 5000hz but that is only possible when the object is moving (I see the light on multiple points at once in that case). The highest frequency I have seen while not moving is about 240hz. A lot of lights are driving me absolutely insane.
Out of curiosity, was this a sign wave? I realize that the LEDs have, probably, 3V to turn on, but it seemed they were only on for a brief time. Thanks, for this video, it makes be think of bridges in a different way.
Sine
As usual, an excellent explanation. What were you using to give 8 volts a/c that allowed you to bring it down to 1 Hz?
HP 33120A Generator
@@IMSAIGuy Will most generators do that?
@@JohnVK5JAK my old HP 8111 goes to 16V
@@IMSAIGuy A quick related question. If I want to test HF band filters (up to 30Mhz) I need a generator that goes up to at least that. Right?
@@JohnVK5JAK yes of course, a good tool for testing filters is the NanoVNA
Newbie question: why would you use a polarized capacitor in this case?
with no capacitor you would have AC. the capacitor stores the energy and creates DC. any capacitor would work. a polarized capacitor is just cheaper and you use them when you can.
@@IMSAIGuy Bingo! Fred
@@IMSAIGuy thanks!
Did you power that right from the function generator, or do you have something doing the low-impedence heavy lifting?
I have a newish function generator, but I find that I am afraid of killing it. Perhaps if I keep a 50 ohm resistor in there?
I may go this route, but even 2 clean watts would be decent as long as it was linear / class-a
www.dmcinfo.com/latest-thinking/blog/id/9462/low-cost-function-generator-amplifier-diy
...and try to keep the frequency low enough to keep the G-men from knocking on my door.
I think I have some TIP-120s/TIP-125s around, perhaps some old LM358s. Hmmm.
chemelec.com/Projects/Amplifier/Amplifier-1.png
For the MKII, perhaps some kind of opto-coupling.
This is interesting, too: electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/188938/how-to-increase-the-rated-output-voltage-current-by-connecting-multiple-op-amps
powered directly. I've wanted to build a lab amplifier (I have several RF ones) for audio frequencies. HP had a nice one in the olden days. Used it to drive motors to test control circuits.
Just watched the link you sent. Interestingly I had discussed my idea with a friend and he also suggested using a op549. Guess I'll have to get one. Looks indestructible. I had planned on using an audio amp IC with short circuit protection but the op549 seems more lab grade