Andrew that's one clever tool . I'm Chris by the way we meet at the summer bash and we're chatting about gears for quite a while. Always good to pick your brain.
You should never use a Reamer on those Chucks, even by hand. They make a Stone specifically for that. You can see this method on Steve Summers UA-cam channel as he rebuilds a Jacobs 18N. He stones the Jaw Grooves. By pure luck I met a Jacobs Engineer years ago, and have stayed in touch with him for over 20 years, so I have learned about everything there is to know about Jacobs Chucks, especially the Super Chucks, due to the fact that I own every size they make from the 8-1/2N all the way up to the 20N, and have duplicates & triplicates in most of them. I have a 14N, 16N, & 18N all still new in the box even though they are probably 30+ years old. Bought those from a Machine Shop that was closing along with several other used ones and some Albrechts. Just thought I’d pass along that knowledge that impressed upon me by a Jacobs Engineer to not ever use any Drill Bits, Reamers, or Files. Use a Stone only! You can get them from KBC Tools I’m pretty sure.
Question, the NEW style has the bearing races where the OLD doesn't? My 14N needs rebuilding so I wanted to try to get the correct kit the 1st time. It has the bearing races. Also, once cleaned and repaired if the chuck is put in a mill (1/2 collet or R8) and a 1/2 or so accurate rod (end mill) was put in it have you any idea what the run out may be. What is typical, acceptable, ..... etc.? Very clearly presented video, THANKS!
Tom, both new and old 14N superchucks have bearings. The old has individual bearings without a race, the NEW version has the race. They are different in terms of the repair parts you would order. The published runout on a brand new 14N is 0.003" at half capacity www.jacobschuck.com/ball-bearing-keyed/10.html While this is the published value for a new chuck, I have seen better on the older ones in practice. Now a lot goes into getting the final runout including the machine and spindle --- as well as the condition of the chuck jaws. Debris and drill bits that have slipped are the normal cause of excessive runout for the chuck itself. One little burr can make a big difference. Give it a good inspection a careful stoning and you can probably beat the published numbers.
I got it apart and found a lot of thick grease. Being bought a while ago on eBay was my first mistake. I really did not see any obvious damage to the housing, bearings, etc., however the jaw faces did not look very good to me. I also found each jaws to be super tight (really!!) in the housing, one being worse than the other 2. I had to use quite a bit of force with tools to get them out. Checked on the reamer you mentioned and the cost of it plus new jaws would be more that a new chuck. As it is not my only chuck, this one is going to the chuck graveyard for part at best. At least some of it the rest to file 13. Thank you for checking and I will be saving the link you sent.
Got a #19 Super Chuck that has one jaw that will not extend with the other two and is jammed in so the chuck will only retract - open? - half way. The chuck isn't rusted or been beaten on. Any suggestions how to get the thing apart so I can assess the damage, clean and lube the thing? I tried pressing it apart as usual but there was clearly something jammed by the out-of-position jaw.
That is a difficult one when the jaw interferes with removing the sleeve. Also the jaws are hardened steel, so removing them is challenging. Here are some ideas, they all involve getting the stubborn jaw moving - 1-Make sure and soak in evapo-rust and then solvent to get out any debri. I know they sometimes look OK on the outside, but inside it needs to be clean so you can get the stuck jaw to move. 2-Tap the end of the offending jaw and with a bolt pull it back out of the way. Also could tig on a bolt and pull 3-Make sure and try pulling on the jaw in many different rotation angles. One of them is where the threaded split nut threads have failed, and it should be able to pull out if all the debris can be loose and removed. 4-Also continue to try pressing off the sleeve during this process. The jaw may not need to move much so that you have clearance for full removal. This is about where you need to consider moving to the next candidate. Because a next step would be to drill out the arbor from the backside at the same angle as the jaw resides in the chuck. Let me know how it goes, and I hope you are able to save it. FYI, I have several chucks in this final condition and they get a small amount of effort each week. In the end we scrap very few chucks.
@@EvolventDesign I really appreciate your help and will save the email notification of your reply so I can update you and your followers. The machine this chuck was installed on was full of botched "fixes", the chuck being just one.
I have a NOS 14N that, cosmetically, is perfect. I also have the Jacobs key. I got this among various tools in an estate sale. The chuck barely turns so I need to lube it. How do I do that not having the service sleeve and pressure press like you have? I want to be able to sell this chuck. Thanks!
Somehow it needs to get lube to the threads and bearings. Use a cup / can / container that will hold the chuck and fill it with oil and let it sit for a few days.
@@EvolventDesign Thank you! I have motor oil and hydraulic jack oil. Which do you suggest? Among the other loose tools I got in that sale, there were two of these brand new 14N's, a 6A, and three smaller Jacobs chucks all with their keys. I paid $100 for the entire lot and was stunned at the value of just a single, new 14N! Now to lube it and find a buyer.
And be honest when you sell it. If you do not fully restore it- be clear. If it does not function and turn smoothly- if it does not hold a bit properly - if it has runout- Used and shiny is very different from fully restored and functional.
Stan sent me over. I have a question. I have this beautiful old Jacob's chuck with spiral teeth. But I don't have the key. Where can I find a key to match up with those spiral teeth on my chuck?
You and me both. Wish I had an easy answer for this one, but I do not. I will keep looking. I do know how to make one but would that be expensive. It is a spiral bevel gear-form. Plain bevels are hard enough, but the spiral is harder. I have only seen in-person one machine that makes such a gear. Stay tuned.
![6 Practical Drill bit Sharpening Hacks !!! [Subtitle]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dpPmYYexQJ8/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for the video. I have three chucks that need some love and this helped to let me know what I'm in for.
Andrew that's one clever tool . I'm Chris by the way we meet at the summer bash and we're chatting about gears for quite a while. Always good to pick your brain.
Thanks Chris! Nice chatting with you too, especially about the old machines and history of machining
Chuck rebuild is something I need to do to some of mine. Thanks for the video on how to do it.
You should never use a Reamer on those Chucks, even by hand. They make a Stone specifically for that. You can see this method on Steve Summers UA-cam channel as he rebuilds a Jacobs 18N. He stones the Jaw Grooves.
By pure luck I met a Jacobs Engineer years ago, and have stayed in touch with him for over 20 years, so I have learned about everything there is to know about Jacobs Chucks, especially the Super Chucks, due to the fact that I own every size they make from the 8-1/2N all the way up to the 20N, and have duplicates & triplicates in most of them.
I have a 14N, 16N, & 18N all still new in the box even though they are probably 30+ years old. Bought those from a Machine Shop that was closing along with several other used ones and some Albrechts.
Just thought I’d pass along that knowledge that impressed upon me by a Jacobs Engineer to not ever use any Drill Bits, Reamers, or Files.
Use a Stone only!
You can get them from KBC Tools I’m pretty sure.
Thanks for sharing the info. And thanks for watching.
@@EvolventDesign No problem Good Video
Forgot to add I did subscribe to you. THANKS !!
Thanks Tom, glad to have you with us.
Stan recommended, glad I listened!
Question, the NEW style has the bearing races where the OLD doesn't? My 14N needs rebuilding so I wanted to try to get the correct kit the 1st time. It has the bearing races.
Also, once cleaned and repaired if the chuck is put in a mill (1/2 collet or R8) and a 1/2 or so accurate rod (end mill) was put in it have you any idea what the run out may be. What is typical, acceptable, ..... etc.?
Very clearly presented video, THANKS!
Tom, both new and old 14N superchucks have bearings. The old has individual bearings without a race, the NEW version has the race. They are different in terms of the repair parts you would order.
The published runout on a brand new 14N is 0.003" at half capacity
www.jacobschuck.com/ball-bearing-keyed/10.html
While this is the published value for a new chuck, I have seen better on the older ones in practice. Now a lot goes into getting the final runout including the machine and spindle --- as well as the condition of the chuck jaws. Debris and drill bits that have slipped are the normal cause of excessive runout for the chuck itself. One little burr can make a big difference. Give it a good inspection a careful stoning and you can probably beat the published numbers.
I got it apart and found a lot of thick grease. Being bought a while ago on eBay was my first mistake. I really did not see any obvious damage to the housing, bearings, etc., however the jaw faces did not look very good to me. I also found each jaws to be super tight (really!!) in the housing, one being worse than the other 2. I had to use quite a bit of force with tools to get them out. Checked on the reamer you mentioned and the cost of it plus new jaws would be more that a new chuck. As it is not my only chuck, this one is going to the chuck graveyard for part at best. At least some of it the rest to file 13.
Thank you for checking and I will be saving the link you sent.
Great video.I have a new style 14N that need some grease. Where can I find a service collar? Thanks.
I think this is it on McM
www.mcmaster.com/jacobs-14n/manufacturer-model-number~14n/manufacturer~jacobs/
don't the service kits for the new and old 14N both use the style of bearings embedded in a retainer
Got a #19 Super Chuck that has one jaw that will not extend with the other two and is jammed in so the chuck will only retract - open? - half way. The chuck isn't rusted or been beaten on. Any suggestions how to get the thing apart so I can assess the damage, clean and lube the thing? I tried pressing it apart as usual but there was clearly something jammed by the out-of-position jaw.
That is a difficult one when the jaw interferes with removing the sleeve. Also the jaws are hardened steel, so removing them is challenging. Here are some ideas, they all involve getting the stubborn jaw moving -
1-Make sure and soak in evapo-rust and then solvent to get out any debri. I know they sometimes look OK on the outside, but inside it needs to be clean so you can get the stuck jaw to move.
2-Tap the end of the offending jaw and with a bolt pull it back out of the way. Also could tig on a bolt and pull
3-Make sure and try pulling on the jaw in many different rotation angles. One of them is where the threaded split nut threads have failed, and it should be able to pull out if all the debris can be loose and removed.
4-Also continue to try pressing off the sleeve during this process. The jaw may not need to move much so that you have clearance for full removal.
This is about where you need to consider moving to the next candidate. Because a next step would be to drill out the arbor from the backside at the same angle as the jaw resides in the chuck.
Let me know how it goes, and I hope you are able to save it. FYI, I have several chucks in this final condition and they get a small amount of effort each week. In the end we scrap very few chucks.
@@EvolventDesign I really appreciate your help and will save the email notification of your reply so I can update you and your followers. The machine this chuck was installed on was full of botched "fixes", the chuck being just one.
I have a NOS 14N that, cosmetically, is perfect. I also have the Jacobs key. I got this among various tools in an estate sale. The chuck barely turns so I need to lube it. How do I do that not having the service sleeve and pressure press like you have? I want to be able to sell this chuck. Thanks!
Somehow it needs to get lube to the threads and bearings. Use a cup / can / container that will hold the chuck and fill it with oil and let it sit for a few days.
@@EvolventDesign Thank you! I have motor oil and hydraulic jack oil. Which do you suggest? Among the other loose tools I got in that sale, there were two of these brand new 14N's, a 6A, and three smaller Jacobs chucks all with their keys. I paid $100 for the entire lot and was stunned at the value of just a single, new 14N! Now to lube it and find a buyer.
Hydraulic or WD-40
@@EvolventDesign Will do. Thank you.
And be honest when you sell it. If you do not fully restore it- be clear. If it does not function and turn smoothly- if it does not hold a bit properly - if it has runout-
Used and shiny is very different from fully restored and functional.
Stan sent me over. I have a question. I have this beautiful old Jacob's chuck with spiral teeth. But I don't have the key. Where can I find a key to match up with those spiral teeth on my chuck?
You and me both. Wish I had an easy answer for this one, but I do not. I will keep looking. I do know how to make one but would that be expensive. It is a spiral bevel gear-form. Plain bevels are hard enough, but the spiral is harder. I have only seen in-person one machine that makes such a gear. Stay tuned.
@@EvolventDesign if you could find a way to manufacture some, that might be a nice product to add to your press sleeves
It is on the list and I will keep you posted. What size is your chuck? Does anyone else need one?
@@EvolventDesign mine is a No 14 says Superchuck in handwriting script. Really a beauty
@@EvolventDesign I could lend it to you if you decide to make some. No. 14