Very nice my friend! It’s gents like you that make the world a better place sir!!! I’m trying to muster up the courage to make a video on how to crank a Stihl chainsaw. I’m a Stihl guy and it aggravates me when people cuss Stihl simply because THEY can’t crank a Stihl chainsaw!!! I’ve spoken to representatives at Stihl asking them to try and do more on this issue. Anyway. Sorry for my long winded post. Again, thanks for the video..
Thanks for getting to the point without yakking for 10 minutes. My owner's manual doesn't identify where to add ot drain fluids at all so this was very helpful.
There was not any priming necessary. There could possibly be in some cases but if you empty and fill in a short period of time usually prime is not lost. Thanks for watching!
Awesome video sir. Very nice! You were the first video I clicked on and I’m happy to know I don’t have to tajw anymore time out of my day watching other videos. I have a 22 ton dirty hand tools splitter and it has been a BEAST!!! I’d almost put it up against my Stihl saws… Nahhhh. Lol Thanks again my good man for making my life a little bit easier. Happy splitting!!!
Thanks for putting this together man! Just got a pre-owned DHT splitter myself and looks like there might be some water in the hydraulic fluid so I'm gonna change it all out. This video is super helpful to know what to do!
Thank you!! Simple and to the point on how its done. Even answered the question of what oil filter to switch to which the auto store can not find the original filter or alternates. 👍
I checked the fluid in my 27 ton and the level was between full and add, drained the fluid and my 5 gallon bucket was only 1/2 full. I measured the reservoir less the two inches the dip stick sticks into the tank, did the calculations and came up with 2.8 gallons. I guess some of our splitters marked 27 ton has the smaller tank. After 8 years of seasonal splitting only split (what I burn but is our only source of heat, don't use electric HVAC). Glad I checked, been mad had I bought 6 gallons.
This is good info Marvin. We should always be checking with the dip stick because it's the only way to really know how much fluid is in something. Thanks for watching!
@@FIXYFIXYCHANNEL Actually, I just finished the job. Drained and refilled the engine oil. Drained and refilled the hydraulic; changed the filter (used the WIX number you printed on the screen, thanks extra for that). I also changed the spark plug, and now the thing runs a lot smoother, and starts super easy. My afternoon started with this video and ended up with a done project.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but the oil coming out of the reservoir was milky green, and that's a pretty strong indicator that a significant amount of water has made its way into your hydraulic system (bad news). That being the case, you really should run the machine for 15 minutes with the fresh oil, then drain that out and replace it again with fresh oil. Hydraulic components, especially pumps and motors, strongly dislike moisture and will prematurely fail if run and stored with that kind of "wet oil".
The fluid was foamy because the tank was low and the pump was pulling air but as far as color goes I'll have to rewatch and get back to you. Thanks for the heads up about the color, I didn't know that.
Take a sample of teh 'milky green' fluid into a clear glass container and let it sit for an hour or so (maybe much less time) and the oil will separate from the water. The water (if any) will settle to the bottom of the container and the oil (lighter substance) will float above it.
Is it ever necessary to bleed the hydraulic system once you change hydraulic filter and put in new hydraulic fluid ? If necessary how would a person bleed the hydraulic system?
The cap that is removed to check the fluid level of the tank is also a breather for the tank. It will allow air to escape when the fluid gets warm and expands, it also allows air back into the tank when the fluid cools and contracts. If you do have air in the lines it will find it's way to the tank.
You could change the position of you splitter handle and turn it up. I think there Allen head cap screws, this is a very easy fix, unless you like it like that.
When the gentleman changed the fluid in his reservoir, there is 1.6 gallons of fluid in his cylinder that he did not change. I got to thinking about it and found a website that by putting in the size of the cylinder it gave the fluid capacity. I went back and bought a five gallon bucket of fluid. That said, I drained my hoses and had my cylinder rebuilt but could only put the five gallons in after bleeding the air and filling the system completely. I removed the hose and the threaded reducer which drained 3/4" more fluid the way he did it and I also dropped the tongue to the ground and jacked up the opposite side, then raised it and lowered it and left it jacked up where the flow out was the best, doubt I left a cup of old fluid in there, wish they had put a drain in the bottom... When I filled the reservoir and ran it to bleed the air, the fluid I could see in the hose was milky from air bubbles being entrained by fluid level dropping as the hoses and cylinder filled. After I capped it off after bleeding the air again, it cleared up. I think he was low on fluid when he changed his and it was frothy from so much air in the system, that's the way my fluid looked through the hose at first, then again, it could have been moisture.
I never considered the fluid capacity of the cylinder and hoses. Also didn't consider that was a large amount of fluid that never got changed. This might be the discrepancy in fluid that I am seeing in the comments. Thank you so much for this insight and thanks for watching.
I have the 25 ton model, same 6.5 hp Kohler engine, and use a wen 55201 magnetic oil dipstick that has a magnet on the end and does catch some tiny metal debris, no shavings, just the black smudge stuff. Hydro filters Baldwin BT839-10 Donaldson P551551 also fit. Your hydro fluid looks milky/yellow colored? Water? Curious, how many hours are on the fluid? Also, it sucks this company went out of business.
I'll have to check out that dipstick. I am not sure how many hours where on that fluid I don't have an hour meter on my splitter. The fluid was pretty low before I changed the fluid I think it might have had a lot of air mixed into the fluid when I filmed the fluid change. Thanks for watching!
Can anyone tell me why there are two yellow dipsticks? One down low that he showed and one a little higher in n the back where the on/off switch is? I bought mine used and do not have an owners manual and can’t seem to find that answer reading the one I found online.
They are all purpose engine that can be put in any number of things (log splitters, plate tampers, generators, water pumps, go carts, ect). A dipstick on both side makes it easier to check regardless of which side of the engine is accessible.
After you shut it off the engine is still drawing fuel in but not igniting it and that fuel is sitting in the cylinder or being pushed out the exhaust. It's a very minor detail but I like to shut motors down at low speed because of that. Sometimes I worry about the smallest things.
Check your fluids often. Read the manual. If possible keep the splitter out of the weather when it's not in use. They are simple machines and if you pay attention to it it will last a very long time.
If you put 6 and 1/2 gallons of hydraulic oil in it and you have it running in the fluid gets warm and expands and you're not on the flattest of ground you'll notice that it's going to leak out
We're any Chickens harmed when making this video? Also I was upset with the lack of support animals. Animal lives matters!! ALM Did you have a sponsor for this video?
Although including the size of the drain plug size and the correct filter# (which is not available anywhere in the owners manual) are appreciated, you have really defeated the purpose of changing fluids.....you did not open the fill port on the other side of the engine to assure that all the oil came out of the engine.....you certainly did not allow enough time for it to drain....same with the hydraulic fluid tank...you have to lift the I beam to drain the hoses and fluid was clearly still coming out the fitting you used to drain the tank when you put the hose back on....also you did not add enough hydraulic fluid.....it takes closer to 4 gallons...and you did not really check its level carefully at all.....not right to post a How to video, unless you are going to do it correctly
Thanks for watching! With the magic of video editing I cut the footage of the fluid drains to keep the video a reasonable watch time. We might have different machines or hydraulic reservoirs. My container of hydraulic fluid was provided by the manufacture (for a warranty issue) so the volume I use was from the source. I hope your log splitter is as much of a joy as mine.
Very nice my friend! It’s gents like you that make the world a better place sir!!! I’m trying to muster up the courage to make a video on how to crank a Stihl chainsaw. I’m a Stihl guy and it aggravates me when people cuss Stihl simply because THEY can’t crank a Stihl chainsaw!!! I’ve spoken to representatives at Stihl asking them to try and do more on this issue. Anyway. Sorry for my long winded post. Again, thanks for the video..
Thanks for getting to the point without yakking for 10 minutes. My owner's manual doesn't identify where to add ot drain fluids at all so this was very helpful.
Thanks for noticing. My goal is to keep it simple. You click to see me do stuff not talk about doing stuff. Thanks for watching.
and it doesn't look like any priming was necessary...
There was not any priming necessary. There could possibly be in some cases but if you empty and fill in a short period of time usually prime is not lost. Thanks for watching!
Awesome video sir. Very nice! You were the first video I clicked on and I’m happy to know I don’t have to tajw anymore time out of my day watching other videos. I have a 22 ton dirty hand tools splitter and it has been a BEAST!!! I’d almost put it up against my Stihl saws… Nahhhh. Lol Thanks again my good man for making my life a little bit easier. Happy splitting!!!
Thanks for putting this together man! Just got a pre-owned DHT splitter myself and looks like there might be some water in the hydraulic fluid so I'm gonna change it all out. This video is super helpful to know what to do!
Glad I could help.Thanks for watching!
Thank you!! Simple and to the point on how its done. Even answered the question of what oil filter to switch to which the auto store can not find the original filter or alternates. 👍
Thank you! I had a really hard time finding this filter also.
Thank you for reminding me to service the splitter. Going tomorrow to get oil and filter and do it soon.
Glad I could help keep you splitter in tip top shape. Winter is coming I hope you have a mountain of wood split. Thanks for watching!
I have two 35 ton Huskys - about to change out fluid and filters! THANKS for taking time to make a video Brother!!!
I'm always thrilled to hear that these videos are beneficial! Have fun servicing your machines and thanks for watching!
I wasn’t sure if that hydronic line you disconnected was under pressure . Now I know.. Thanks..
Since the manual is scarce in this procedure, watching what you did here made this process crystal clear. Very good video.
Thank you so much for the kind words and thanks for watching!
Awesome video! Thanks for sharing! 👍
You are welcome and thanks for watching!
great video
I checked the fluid in my 27 ton and the level was between full and add, drained the fluid and my 5 gallon bucket was only 1/2 full. I measured the reservoir less the two inches the dip stick sticks into the tank, did the calculations and came up with 2.8 gallons. I guess some of our splitters marked 27 ton has the smaller tank. After 8 years of seasonal splitting only split (what I burn but is our only source of heat, don't use electric HVAC). Glad I checked, been mad had I bought 6 gallons.
This is good info Marvin. We should always be checking with the dip stick because it's the only way to really know how much fluid is in something. Thanks for watching!
Good video. I have this exact log splitter, so this will be very helpful to me.
I'm glad it can be helpful. If there is any other services or maintenance you want to see just let me know and thanks for watching!
@@FIXYFIXYCHANNEL Actually, I just finished the job. Drained and refilled the engine oil. Drained and refilled the hydraulic; changed the filter (used the WIX number you printed on the screen, thanks extra for that). I also changed the spark plug, and now the thing runs a lot smoother, and starts super easy. My afternoon started with this video and ended up with a done project.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but the oil coming out of the reservoir was milky green, and that's a pretty strong indicator that a significant amount of water has made its way into your hydraulic system (bad news). That being the case, you really should run the machine for 15 minutes with the fresh oil, then drain that out and replace it again with fresh oil. Hydraulic components, especially pumps and motors, strongly dislike moisture and will prematurely fail if run and stored with that kind of "wet oil".
The fluid was foamy because the tank was low and the pump was pulling air but as far as color goes I'll have to rewatch and get back to you. Thanks for the heads up about the color, I didn't know that.
Take a sample of teh 'milky green' fluid into a clear glass container and let it sit for an hour or so (maybe much less time) and the oil will separate from the water. The water (if any) will settle to the bottom of the container and the oil (lighter substance) will float above it.
I have 22ton it says to add 4gals of fluid you only put 2.5gals?
Is it ever necessary to bleed the hydraulic system once you change hydraulic filter and put in new hydraulic fluid ? If necessary how would a person bleed the hydraulic system?
Just what I was looking for. Thank you!
You are very welcome! Thanks for watching!
Husband and I are house sitting and his father has one of these. Couldn't figure it out for the life of us. Thank you for showing us what to do 😂
You are very welcome and thanks for watching!
Thanks! Any recommendations on videos for fixing a leaking handle for this model? Handle also gets very hard to disengage as it's running. gasket?
novice here...how does the air escape after refilling the reservoir..i know you ran the cylinder in and out, but how does air escape?
The cap that is removed to check the fluid level of the tank is also a breather for the tank. It will allow air to escape when the fluid gets warm and expands, it also allows air back into the tank when the fluid cools and contracts. If you do have air in the lines it will find it's way to the tank.
I guess you don't need to bleed the hydraulic system other then running it a few times??
You could change the position of you splitter handle and turn it up. I think there Allen head cap screws, this is a very easy fix, unless you like it like that.
When the gentleman changed the fluid in his reservoir, there is 1.6 gallons of fluid in his cylinder that he did not change. I got to thinking about it and found a website that by putting in the size of the cylinder it gave the fluid capacity. I went back and bought a five gallon bucket of fluid. That said, I drained my hoses and had my cylinder rebuilt but could only put the five gallons in after bleeding the air and filling the system completely. I removed the hose and the threaded reducer which drained 3/4" more fluid the way he did it and I also dropped the tongue to the ground and jacked up the opposite side, then raised it and lowered it and left it jacked up where the flow out was the best, doubt I left a cup of old fluid in there, wish they had put a drain in the bottom...
When I filled the reservoir and ran it to bleed the air, the fluid I could see in the hose was milky from air bubbles being entrained by fluid level dropping as the hoses and cylinder filled. After I capped it off after bleeding the air again, it cleared up. I think he was low on fluid when he changed his and it was frothy from so much air in the system, that's the way my fluid looked through the hose at first, then again, it could have been moisture.
I never considered the fluid capacity of the cylinder and hoses. Also didn't consider that was a large amount of fluid that never got changed. This might be the discrepancy in fluid that I am seeing in the comments. Thank you so much for this insight and thanks for watching.
I have the 25 ton model, same 6.5 hp Kohler engine, and use a wen 55201 magnetic oil dipstick that has a magnet on the end and does catch some tiny metal debris, no shavings, just the black smudge stuff. Hydro filters Baldwin BT839-10
Donaldson P551551 also fit. Your hydro fluid looks milky/yellow colored? Water? Curious, how many hours are on the fluid? Also, it sucks this company went out of business.
I'll have to check out that dipstick. I am not sure how many hours where on that fluid I don't have an hour meter on my splitter. The fluid was pretty low before I changed the fluid I think it might have had a lot of air mixed into the fluid when I filmed the fluid change. Thanks for watching!
Like it man. Thanks!
Thank you!
Where did you find the cross reference from the DH filter to the WIX 51551?
It's been years since I found that info so sadly I can't remember where.
Best way to dispose of the old hydraulic fluid?
Usually you can take it to a local service center or parts store for disposal.
Can anyone tell me why there are two yellow dipsticks? One down low that he showed and one a little higher in n the back where the on/off switch is? I bought mine used and do not have an owners manual and can’t seem to find that answer reading the one I found online.
They are all purpose engine that can be put in any number of things (log splitters, plate tampers, generators, water pumps, go carts, ect). A dipstick on both side makes it easier to check regardless of which side of the engine is accessible.
Fluid is leaking out of the end of the push rod. How do I fix the leak?
Without seeing it if fluid is coming out of your hydraulic cylinder you might need to have it rebuilt or replace it.
Just noticed gas in the oil crank case. Any suggestions?
It is possible that the carburetor bowl float is not closing completely. Do you shut the fuel off when you are not using the splitter?
Too easy..... 🤘🤘🤘🤘
How come when u went to shut it down, u slowed the speed back down to turtle speed?
After you shut it off the engine is still drawing fuel in but not igniting it and that fuel is sitting in the cylinder or being pushed out the exhaust. It's a very minor detail but I like to shut motors down at low speed because of that. Sometimes I worry about the smallest things.
@@FIXYFIXYCHANNEL thanks for the info, just learning my way around my new splitter.
Check your fluids often. Read the manual. If possible keep the splitter out of the weather when it's not in use. They are simple machines and if you pay attention to it it will last a very long time.
@@FIXYFIXYCHANNEL Good to know Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Thank you, manual doesn’t tell how it’s done. I guess they assume we all know.
I always wonder why they don't have more info on maintenance. Thanks for watching!
Owners Manual specifies min 5 gallons of hydraulic fluid to operate!
By the way my fluid was clear and clean but just had cylinder rebuilt, want to start out everything new.
27ton hold 6.5gal and minimum running is 5gallons.
If you put 6 and 1/2 gallons of hydraulic oil in it and you have it running in the fluid gets warm and expands and you're not on the flattest of ground you'll notice that it's going to leak out
We're any Chickens harmed when making this video? Also I was upset with the lack of support animals. Animal lives matters!! ALM
Did you have a sponsor for this video?
I am looking for sponsors. Maybe a coffee company? If you have one in mind I'd like to hear about it. As always thanks for the view time
Parts have doubled in 4 years now
Service your equipment or buy new parts
Looks loke it would take one year to cut a corde
It's much faster then that. Thanks for watching!
Me and my buddy have one that size. We split a cord of wood in about 4 hours hustling
That quick work for a cord of wood. You guys must have been hustling!
Although including the size of the drain plug size and the correct filter# (which is not available anywhere in the owners manual) are appreciated, you have really defeated the purpose of changing fluids.....you did not open the fill port on the other side of the engine to assure that all the oil came out of the engine.....you certainly did not allow enough time for it to drain....same with the hydraulic fluid tank...you have to lift the I beam to drain the hoses and fluid was clearly still coming out the fitting you used to drain the tank when you put the hose back on....also you did not add enough hydraulic fluid.....it takes closer to 4 gallons...and you did not really check its level carefully at all.....not right to post a How to video, unless you are going to do it correctly
Thanks for watching! With the magic of video editing I cut the footage of the fluid drains to keep the video a reasonable watch time. We might have different machines or hydraulic reservoirs. My container of hydraulic fluid was provided by the manufacture (for a warranty issue) so the volume I use was from the source. I hope your log splitter is as much of a joy as mine.
Napa carries the WIX 1551 which s supposed to fit the same. Runs about $17.00