What is Perfect Soil? (2022)
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- Опубліковано 11 жов 2024
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Great videos, saved my attempts to grow avocados, after a lot of failures, now 16 varities on 21 trees. Thankyou!!!!
Every gardener should watch this. Amazing stuff. Helping me solve many of my current plant issues, been using way too many dead trees.
[Great job Gary. Nothing better than spreading some good truth in this current clown world. Great audio too. ]
Been growing in sand and charcoal mix for a long while now works well. Amazing how much the new leaf size increases when I buy a plant that's in compost and knock the compost off and put it in sand.
any thing else besides the sand and char?
@@mmccrownus2406 yeah just sand and crushed charcoal, with compost and mulch on top. Charcoals gets soaked in fish emulsion for a week or so before I use it. I'd add some pumice to the mix try get the weight down but it's hard to come by where I am.
May I ask what kind of sand you are using?
@@msfullroller a washed river sand. It's a bit of a mix of fine and coarse sand. Haven't tried beach sand yet I'm unsure if the calcium carbonate from all the shells and corals would affect pH too much.
Ok, thanks so much. I'm using play sand in containers. I forgot to also ask if you were gardening in-ground or in containers
Excellent teacher!
Watch tons of your videos, glad you got a microphone now. Audio is much better.
Excellent meeting & information. Thanks, Gary
We have found 100% of Gary's info is correct and verifiable.
Uncle Gary, what do you think about worms and worm castings?
In my small back yard, I do not buy any type of fertilizer. I have a few 5 gallon buckets for kitchen scraps, and there are worms. When that breaks down and worms eat whatever, I add the contents to the yard. I prune my trees several times a year, and the branches with leaves attached are fed into a wood chipper. The soil is covered with the leaves falling off trees and the wood chips and shredded leaves from pruning, along with cut grass. Every time I dig for planting, there are always worms. I assume that the worms in the soil are supplying worm castings. My dad, who is cheap, never bought fertilizer either. He would dig holes, bury kitchen scraps, and he said that the worms and insects in the ground will take care of it and naturally fertilize the trees and plants.
I am near Ocean Beach in San Francisco. It's mostly overcast, foggy, and the soil is sandy from when the neighborhood was all sand dunes. I have luck with some vegetables, and others don't do as well. Fruit trees have been okay, with a few being good, and a few not so good. I always assumed that the plants and trees that didn't do well, was because it's 55 degrees Fahrenheit here all year around, and we have all the salt in the air from The Pacific Ocean. Do I need to go out and buy a bunch of different things to add to the soil?
Wonderful lecture Gary, I’m in north Calif but intent on visiting your nursery some day.
This is top quality information, however the sound quality is so bad it makes it hard to understand. I think all us UA-cam followers would greatly appreciate a nicer microphone. Thank you again for all the great information you put up for us.
Great class. Thank you. Hope to visit Laguna Nursery next week. I’m bringing neighbors!
Nature does not do 'overwatering'; it rains when it rains, and the plants take it just fine. As Gary Matsuoka says, it is the presence of readily biodegradable organic matter in the root zone, and the resultant oxygen deprivation, that promotes pathogenic anaerobic microbial growth and root disease. Why is it that many (myself included) have lost one avocado after another when grown in compost, fine coir or bark chips, yet avocado pits can happily grow in a glass of water, provided that the water is replaced regularly to avoid stagnant (anoxic) conditions.
Hi Gary, I enjoy watching your videos and the information you provide on soils is really eye opening. I grow plumerias and have over 70 plants all in 5 GA pots. As I am sure you know, plumerias are very sensitive to over-watering and root rot is the most common way to kill the plant. The rule of thumb during the dormant season is to withhold water to the plant between mid-November and mid-March. I still typically lose 10% of my plants during the cold season anyway. I have to wonder how much it has to do with the soil. Even the desert mixes include ground bark. What are your experiences, if any, with growing plumeria in your soils Acid mix and Top pot? I have heard you mention plumeria in your videos but don't know if you grow them. A video on growing plumeria would be of great interest- just a thought.
If the Plumeria is in sand you would never be able to cause root rot. We grow Plumeria in our TOP POT along with all our other stock and generally irrigated them daily no matter if they are moist or dry. We do not expect to have any rot problems. We've been growing Plumeria cuttings for over a decade and root them in our TOP POT.
Uncle, excellent content
Hi Gary, always love your videos. I'm hoping you can answer my question please. You were talking about water molecules and them sticking to the planting media.
I've always believed, but never known for sure, that the first water you introduce to a pot is what will remain and be used vs the latter water that ends up running out of the pot. I'm thinking of the case of adding say liquid fish fertilizer. I put in a solo cup of the diluted mixture before I come back through and water enough to saturate the plant. I've always believed that the 2nd dose of plain water is what ends up running out of the pot.
From what you were explaining, it sounds like this is true. Am I correct? Thanks!
I'm uncertain on how water would move through a consistent medium in a pot. I saw a report stating that the water first goes straight down to the bottom then saturates the soil from bottom to top...but I think that occurs when watered by a drip system running at a slow rate. We flood the surface with hose water so I believe we are saturating from top to bottom...but I haven't studied it carefully. I never finished taking a hydrology course.
Water is hydrophyllic to itself so there will be a blend of first and second batch of water draining through the pot.
Likely more of the first batch of water though, since the second watering pushes down on the first watering.
Anyways, if you're applying good managing practises, you should try to minimize fertilizer and nutrients leaching out of the pot by not watering in excess. Maybe watering more slowly helps.
Good luck.
I find that the peatmoss I use to be potentially too acidic for some species (it has a pH of around 4.5, measured by dipping a digital pH probe into a wet slurry of the substrate). However, when I mix 1 part (by volume) of the peat with 2 parts of coir, the resultant peat-coir blend has a slightly acidic pH of around 5.9 to 6.2, which suits many species, including citrus. I then add 6 parts (by volume) of perlite to the coir-peatmoss blend to create a very airy mix consisting of, ratio-wise, 1/3 rd coir-peatmoss blend to 2/3 rd of perlite. Although the perlite I use is alkaline (I measured the pH and found it to have a value of 8), the acidity of the peatmoss-coir blend counteracts this alkalinity, so the peat/coir-perlite mix has a pH level around 6. I have read that some grow plants in nothing but 100% perlite, but I can't see how plants can perform well under the alkaline conditions, the lack of pH buffering capacity of perlite, the low cation exhange capacity (CEC), and perlite's poor nutrient retention. I suppose that the pH of perlite varies from source to source, but the perlite I use is definitely alkaline. I sometimes use pumice, and I have found that there's a lot of variation, in terms of weight/density and particle size, in the pumice offered from one vendor to another. I can obtain a small, dense and heavy greyish pumice, and a chunky but very lightweight yellowish pumice.
It sounds like a good mixture that will work very well for quite a few plants. Everything you say makes proper sense. Good luck
I use sphagnum peat moss. But according to the plant, I add baking soda and let it sit for a few days. Never had a problem with acidity. I also grow all my plants with 2 different types of worms. They eat the dead roots and in return feed the plant etc. I also don’t use perlite but I do have a good bit of plants in 5gal buckets with holes drilled around them or I make my own grow bags.
Edit: Forgot to say that I also use worm castings that are littered with tons of biology while mixing the peat moss. I also use mulch which is very important for trees and shrubs.
I'm currently using roughly 1/2 sand and 1/2 vermiculite and then top few inches is mix of compost, sand, worm castings, and vermiculite as fertilizer and water retention. Then maybe few inches of decaying leaves.
Last season I had 1-1-1 of sand, pumice, and vermiculite but I couldn't get the office this year. So I did half and half. Let's see what happens this time around.
Vermiculite is equivalent to clay and stays pretty wet and messes up the permeability. It will cause the plant to grow very slowly
@@GarysBestGardening seriously? Vermiculite equals clay even tho it's super light?
Well one of the pots is a fabric pot so not so much worried about that. But the pots that are plastic are screwed if they're half sand and half vermiculite? What can I do now? I can't replant them and they seem to be doing fine for now.
Hi Gary, thank you for your response to my other question. I have another question about reusing "old soil". I have heard that adding Azomite to old soil is like using new soil because trace minerals and micro-nutrients are added back into the soil. Is that true or is there a different problem with the old soil that Azomite would not solve? I am looking forward to your next video on repotting plants in good soil like your Acid Mix or Top Pot. It would be great if you could repot a plumeria as an example - or maybe for another video though LOL.
There are 11 or 12 minerals we need to add to grow plants. These are in most organic fertilizers. There is no secret ingredient that is used that requires replacement. Old soil (like our TOP POT, or sand) is fine when used to grow an unrelated plant. Farmers rotate crops...not because the soil has been depleted...but because each crop leaves tiny pieces of its dead roots in the soil. These tiny pieces are decaying and a source of disease that would compromise the health of related plants. We make certain that we do not use the soil for the same plant for at least a year...2 years is better. I have a farmer friend who told me that on their organic farm they use a 10 crop rotation. Only grow the same (or related crop) once every 10 crops. It takes them about 4 years to grow crops on the same plot.
Hey Gary ! Hoping you might be reading the comments. After using the store stuff (that is awful) I've started using a coco-coir / perlite / slow fertilizer / dolomite mix for citrus in containers. Was wondering why your opinion on coco-coir is that it's bad. Should I replace it with peat ? Thank you and salutations from europe.
Hi Vlad. Thanks for watching. Part of the problem is that Coir is much fresher than peat moss and seems to give off some tannins (we assume) that gives leaves an odd orange tinge. It decomposes at a similar rate. For a permanent application we want the inert material to be at least 2/3 of the volume. Coir may work OK but I would think that in this product coir is probably more than 1/3 of the volume. If it is blended with more permanent materials like sand...it may work well. Peat moss has less tannins (chemicals that plants produce to deter rot and insects) because it has been sitting at the bottom of a lake for a long, long time. Although peat moss still decomposes within 5 years or so it doesn't seem to have other detrimental properties. The coir people have done a masterful job claiming coir to be renewable and peat moss as not...but I think there's a whole lot more peat bogs in Siberia, Northern Europe, and Canada than there are coconut palms in Sri Lanka.
@@GarysBestGardening Thank you so much !
My native soil is very clayey, I live my an old creek. How can I amend it without buying sandy loam? Would pine bark chips or pine bark mulch with perlite work well? Thanks.
I can't find pumice shipped as cheaply as chunky perlite. Would that be a good substitute for all my containers?
Just a small correction, the mycelium that was discovered in Oregon was 2,200 acres. Not 200 yards. Not one to nitpick but it's pretty insane. It's thought to be the largest organism in the world.
Can sand found at a beach be used instead of sand purchase at a store? I am trying to grow fruit trees and later I will be trying some vegetables.
Hi Gary, can i replace pumice with 5/16" Horticulture Lava?
I planted a mango tree in almost pure compost and I will say it has stayed the same size for 6+ months. Do you think it would be better to leave it and hope/wait for the soil to balance out, or should I uproot it and replace the soil?
I have waited up to 10 years to get a citrus tree that was grown in compost to start growing. I would replant the mango as soon as possible. You won't find many roots below the surface of the soil.
So what do u use compost for, top dressing?
you should grow papaya from seed in different soils to show your class the best example
The science, universities and all that are meant to check progress.
Yoomus(Humus) sounds like you are saying the dip.
Gary you're looking good. Did you lose a few pounds ?
Yes...but I am still considered overweight by my BMI. Hopefully within a few more months I'll be back to my high school weight.
How can I buy soil?
That depends upon where you are located. Currently it is only distributed in California through BFG garden supply co. However, BFG is a nationwide dstributor and is capable (may need prodding) to carry it in other regions.
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