Thanks very much for watching my video everyone (and don't forget about part 1). If you liked the video please consider subscribing to help me build the channel. Thank you very much.
It seems that the relay is a known point of failure so advice is to replace them when doing the compressor. From what I've read the relay fails and runs the compressor until it explodes (I.e. stuck in the "on" position). A new relay usually comes with a compressor when you buy one.
The strip down was the replacement pump. I think it was a bit worn after a year's use but to be honest it still worked and after I rebuilt it there was no more issues (maybe I somehow fixed it a bit). Anyway a few months later the HPFP exploded and I scrapped the whole car and bought a younger one so who knows if that new compressor would have lasted. My original compressor did explode and thats why i replaced it (theres a video of it on this chanel). HPFP gave up at 172k. I didn't see that one coming !!
I have to do the same job to my 2016 3.0tdi A8. Great video, the air line look the most worrying part, my hand are a bit knackered, but I will have a go, my relay in behind back seat, so you don't have to calibrated it after? Also replacing holding tank, just to be sure.
@toneskill I actually did calibrate it a while later but I don't really think I needed to as it made no difference from memory. The calibration is really easy using VCDS and basically involved measuring each centre wheel to arch then entering the data and moving onto the next wheel. It takes minutes just and is easy. There are good videos on UA-cam for calibration also, which you can literally follow step by step.
Thanks very much for the kind feedback. That all sounds crazy I'm not sure on what ur issue may be. Yes I needed vcds to drain the air before disassembly but that's about it really. When I put it all back together it all pumped up on its own without the use of vcds.
I will be attemting to fix my Audi A8L/D3 2009 - I get back side lowered every night....not just one side, but the whole back just gets emptied... I did timelaps and its clearly both rear one's at the same time so I will do the Solenoid / Valve block and see. Tnx for tips!
Hi. No not yet. We are in the middle of winter now and I work outside on portable ramp. So in the meanwhile, I have to start the car, twice, to get it up and then it holds for day or two. Once spring is back to town, I will be right on it@@bumbleshufflesdiy5908
@@bumbleshufflesdiy5908 Bro i have same problem with mine audi a8 2010 and i have fault code c11aff0 it gets lower over night but on front side...When i drive it works normaln and i can raise it and lower it without problem.. Also i check for leaks on air bags and valve block but i couldnt see any bubbles. I get yellow worning light in about 1km when i drive then when i switch it off and then on it dissapears. Can u please help :)
I have had a similar problem with mine which turned out to be a residual pressure holding valve. There is a valve at the top of each strutt and they can fail causing the flashing light to come in after driving for a while, as the strutt cannot retain / release air. They are not expensive and changing them is a DIY job if ur handy (but sometimes you have to remove the strutt to access it depending on the set up). I have no idea if this is your problem or not but it may be worth investigating to see if it might be. If this was helpful please consider subscribing.
Thank you for doing this video it’s really helpful! Do you need vdcs to do anything or drain the air? I have a 2013 that started with all corners dropping after a few days, months later I have a yellow light on but seems to all work ok. Last week I was parked at idle when the car started to drop the front then pump back up every few minutes, then my headlights started dancing up and down and now today I had green suspension light flashing and the car didn’t raise till I changed it from dynamic to comfort and then the compressor kicked in at last. Can’t find any leaks
Hi yes I used vcds to drain the air from the suspension before I dismantled it. I'm not sure if this has to be done or not but it made sense to me since the system can sit at a significant pressure when it's working as it should.
With regards to your symptoms I am unsure what exactly to think. I would start by checking the level sensors and also checking for air leaks around the four corners and the valve block.
Hi, I did spray the valve block and didn’t see any leaks. I thought if it was a level sensor or a leak on a line to a particular corner then that wouldn’t affect all 4 corners. It seems vcds is really expensive. I don’t know of a cheaper alternative to it. I don’t know if I’d be ok undoing lines from the block till they start hissing some air then waiting for it to empty unless it’ll just explode about 5 bar at me
I'm honestly not sure either. Mine was pretty much deflated and it still hissed a fair bit. I would NOT recommend loosening those lines without knowing what kind of pressure is in there. We all like to fix our cars but we are more important than the car so I always avoid any tasks risky of injury and if they are risky, then to hell with the car haha. That's just my opinion tho !!
Hello my friend, where are you based in Northern Ireland? Would you be able to fit the passenger front airbag on a q7 as i can't get a mechanic at all to fit it
I am very sorry but I am not a mechanic and would not be able to fit this for you. I Hope that you get sorted and my apologies that I cannot be of more help.
From memory I think around £350 all in but I didn't actually need a new valve block so I could have done the compressor for around £250 and still had the same result.
Thanks very much for watching my video everyone (and don't forget about part 1). If you liked the video please consider subscribing to help me build the channel. Thank you very much.
Hello my friend, that without doubt is one of the best "how to" video's on the whole of UA-cam, thank you so much for taking the time to produce it.
Thank you very much for the kind feedback, I really appreciate it. Glad you found the video useful and I hope it helped you out.
Why replace the relay? Is it recommended to replace it when renewing the compressor? Many thanks, great videos
It seems that the relay is a known point of failure so advice is to replace them when doing the compressor. From what I've read the relay fails and runs the compressor until it explodes (I.e. stuck in the "on" position). A new relay usually comes with a compressor when you buy one.
@@bumbleshufflesdiy5908 did that new compressor fail also or was that strip down video your original one ? Thanks
The strip down was the replacement pump. I think it was a bit worn after a year's use but to be honest it still worked and after I rebuilt it there was no more issues (maybe I somehow fixed it a bit). Anyway a few months later the HPFP exploded and I scrapped the whole car and bought a younger one so who knows if that new compressor would have lasted. My original compressor did explode and thats why i replaced it (theres a video of it on this chanel). HPFP gave up at 172k. I didn't see that one coming !!
I have to do the same job to my 2016 3.0tdi A8. Great video, the air line look the most worrying part, my hand are a bit knackered, but I will have a go, my relay in behind back seat, so you don't have to calibrated it after? Also replacing holding tank, just to be sure.
@toneskill I actually did calibrate it a while later but I don't really think I needed to as it made no difference from memory. The calibration is really easy using VCDS and basically involved measuring each centre wheel to arch then entering the data and moving onto the next wheel. It takes minutes just and is easy. There are good videos on UA-cam for calibration also, which you can literally follow step by step.
Thanks very much for the kind feedback. That all sounds crazy I'm not sure on what ur issue may be. Yes I needed vcds to drain the air before disassembly but that's about it really. When I put it all back together it all pumped up on its own without the use of vcds.
I will be attemting to fix my Audi A8L/D3 2009 - I get back side lowered every night....not just one side, but the whole back just gets emptied... I did timelaps and its clearly both rear one's at the same time so I will do the Solenoid / Valve block and see. Tnx for tips!
Did you get it sorted?
Hi. No not yet. We are in the middle of winter now and I work outside on portable ramp. So in the meanwhile, I have to start the car, twice, to get it up and then it holds for day or two. Once spring is back to town, I will be right on it@@bumbleshufflesdiy5908
@@bumbleshufflesdiy5908 Bro i have same problem with mine audi a8 2010 and i have fault code c11aff0 it gets lower over night but on front side...When i drive it works normaln and i can raise it and lower it without problem.. Also i check for leaks on air bags and valve block but i couldnt see any bubbles. I get yellow worning light in about 1km when i drive then when i switch it off and then on it dissapears. Can u please help :)
I have had a similar problem with mine which turned out to be a residual pressure holding valve. There is a valve at the top of each strutt and they can fail causing the flashing light to come in after driving for a while, as the strutt cannot retain / release air. They are not expensive and changing them is a DIY job if ur handy (but sometimes you have to remove the strutt to access it depending on the set up). I have no idea if this is your problem or not but it may be worth investigating to see if it might be. If this was helpful please consider subscribing.
Thank you for doing this video it’s really helpful! Do you need vdcs to do anything or drain the air? I have a 2013 that started with all corners dropping after a few days, months later I have a yellow light on but seems to all work ok. Last week I was parked at idle when the car started to drop the front then pump back up every few minutes, then my headlights started dancing up and down and now today I had green suspension light flashing and the car didn’t raise till I changed it from dynamic to comfort and then the compressor kicked in at last. Can’t find any leaks
Hi yes I used vcds to drain the air from the suspension before I dismantled it. I'm not sure if this has to be done or not but it made sense to me since the system can sit at a significant pressure when it's working as it should.
With regards to your symptoms I am unsure what exactly to think. I would start by checking the level sensors and also checking for air leaks around the four corners and the valve block.
Hi, I did spray the valve block and didn’t see any leaks. I thought if it was a level sensor or a leak on a line to a particular corner then that wouldn’t affect all 4 corners. It seems vcds is really expensive. I don’t know of a cheaper alternative to it. I don’t know if I’d be ok undoing lines from the block till they start hissing some air then waiting for it to empty unless it’ll just explode about 5 bar at me
I'm honestly not sure either. Mine was pretty much deflated and it still hissed a fair bit. I would NOT recommend loosening those lines without knowing what kind of pressure is in there. We all like to fix our cars but we are more important than the car so I always avoid any tasks risky of injury and if they are risky, then to hell with the car haha. That's just my opinion tho !!
Hello my friend, where are you based in Northern Ireland? Would you be able to fit the passenger front airbag on a q7 as i can't get a mechanic at all to fit it
I am very sorry but I am not a mechanic and would not be able to fit this for you. I Hope that you get sorted and my apologies that I cannot be of more help.
How much was all the parts
From memory I think around £350 all in but I didn't actually need a new valve block so I could have done the compressor for around £250 and still had the same result.