exactly what happend to my 05 aero . ive bought a second ecu and had it cloned /reprogrammed and mapped and so far so good . there are heat shield kits which stand it off the manifold and help with the heat cycling which seems to be the culprit but i intend moving mine to the slam panel by the radiator . there's a good YT vid on how to do this and its pretty straightforward. I also intend opening my old one and getting up close to see if it may be as simple as a dry joint as i found with mine it failed when in traffic and idling when the temp rises , i could drive 15 miles each way to work (motorway A roads with no fail)
This is so helpful. Whenever I disconnect and reconnect the battery, I ALWAYS am unable to start the car... the battery shows it's charged. Sometimes I have to fiddle with the position of the negative cable and jostle things around before I'm finally able to restart the car. This time I simply cannot get my car with a charged battery to start. Any ideas? Update: Hours later I got the car to crank and start up after I cleaned the terminals with baking soda and gave it another jump start.... and when it started? My A/C, which had stopped working suddenly worked again... AND no more misfires... all codes have vanished from my obd. Does this sound like a bad ECU??
For anyone watching, you can prevent this by just relocating the ECU. highly recommended as just replacing the broken one won't fix it for good, the new ECU will fail as well at some point if you don't relocate it. you can thank GM for this.
You have to use heat just to replace the chip. Shouldn't it die then? The ECU never reaches engine bay temperature, I've already done that experiment. But seriously, it takes a lot of heat to work on these pcbas and it's hotter than engine temps.
The internal components that are on the printed circuit board inside the ECU can handle heat way higher than the engine is capable of outputting. However the life expectancy of those parts is limited and there is also a standby voltage present in the ECU so when the car is off it's kind of still on. All this hype about putting a shield under it is nonsense. The chip that fails in which you replace can take twice the heat so explain that... I've proven this with 4 sensors in the engine compartment in which one was inside the ECU one was attached to the bottom of the ECU and one was attached to the top of the ECU and let me tell you the interior temperature of ECU was not even close to being a problem. I'll need to make a video on this just so people actually know the truth.
2010 saab 9-3 2.0t I have a cim with the same exact parts numbers I have a tech 2im trying to learn how to add the cim I have no idea how to add the cim please help
I have a p0606 any tips tht can help me my first syptoms i was driving one day in the morning pretty hot outside were im from n it was fine and little ltr in the drive my car just went limp at the light nd i stopped and turnded off to see wht was happening i thought a hise poped off causeing a vaccum leak looked to be fine checked coils they were fine it wasnt feel like the car was misfire bc i have experience with misfires with this car ..and i got back in my car to check the code and my car did not crank at all my lights and radio was just fine so I disconnected my battery terminals and rested the ecu and took off but when i started it it revs super high for no reson and then idles and the engine shake weird cause the car exsuaht sound choppy if that make sense and my codes from autozne scantool was p0606 code and a hard code that said throttle body acuator
exactly what happend to my 05 aero . ive bought a second ecu and had it cloned /reprogrammed and mapped and so far so good . there are heat shield kits which stand it off the manifold and help with the heat cycling which seems to be the culprit but i intend moving mine to the slam panel by the radiator . there's a good YT vid on how to do this and its pretty straightforward. I also intend opening my old one and getting up close to see if it may be as simple as a dry joint as i found with mine it failed when in traffic and idling when the temp rises , i could drive 15 miles each way to work (motorway A roads with no fail)
This is so helpful. Whenever I disconnect and reconnect the battery, I ALWAYS am unable to start the car... the battery shows it's charged. Sometimes I have to fiddle with the position of the negative cable and jostle things around before I'm finally able to restart the car. This time I simply cannot get my car with a charged battery to start. Any ideas?
Update: Hours later I got the car to crank and start up after I cleaned the terminals with baking soda and gave it another jump start.... and when it started? My A/C, which had stopped working suddenly worked again... AND no more misfires... all codes have vanished from my obd. Does this sound like a bad ECU??
Thanks for the info
No problem 👍
For anyone watching, you can prevent this by just relocating the ECU. highly recommended as just replacing the broken one won't fix it for good, the new ECU will fail as well at some point if you don't relocate it. you can thank GM for this.
You have to use heat just to replace the chip. Shouldn't it die then? The ECU never reaches engine bay temperature, I've already done that experiment.
But seriously, it takes a lot of heat to work on these pcbas and it's hotter than engine temps.
Huge black eye for Saabs.
Nah, that's why I own 8. Just gotta buy yourself a Tech 2 and know how to do component level rework.
yo bro i suggest getting a spacer kit for that ecu so u don't run into the same issue again
Thanks!
Highly recommend getting these ECMs OFF the intake. They get hot on their own, bolting them to an even hotter engine...is GMs way of saying...FU
So the thing to try is disconnect the battery, then reconnect and see if all is well.
The internal components that are on the printed circuit board inside the ECU can handle heat way higher than the engine is capable of outputting. However the life expectancy of those parts is limited and there is also a standby voltage present in the ECU so when the car is off it's kind of still on. All this hype about putting a shield under it is nonsense. The chip that fails in which you replace can take twice the heat so explain that...
I've proven this with 4 sensors in the engine compartment in which one was inside the ECU one was attached to the bottom of the ECU and one was attached to the top of the ECU and let me tell you the interior temperature of ECU was not even close to being a problem. I'll need to make a video on this just so people actually know the truth.
Where did you get the ecu? who did the programming?
I bought a used one from eBay. I programmed it myself.
@@axleung1 Hello, how do you go about reprogramming it yourself? I have the same issue and not sure what to do next
@@steelydan133 ua-cam.com/video/HwGNgtLK_ds/v-deo.htmlsi=UfAwe-iBHI1QoZRa
@@axleung1 Thank you, very detailed video
Hopefully it’s out on the road ASAP
Thanks. Car is running great with new to me ECM installed and programmed.
Can youhelp me with my saab9-3 2.0t xwd my steering wheel controls does not work to change the settings do you have any idea why this is happening
Not sure about this. Could be the switch?
Thanks for the information
clock spring in CIM
2010 saab 9-3 2.0t I have a cim with the same exact parts numbers I have a tech 2im trying to learn how to add the cim I have no idea how to add the cim please help
I know I need security access I need help downloading the program 146 or 148
What code you get
No codes at all. No check engine light.
I have a p0606 any tips tht can help me my first syptoms i was driving one day in the morning pretty hot outside were im from n it was fine and little ltr in the drive my car just went limp at the light nd i stopped and turnded off to see wht was happening i thought a hise poped off causeing a vaccum leak looked to be fine checked coils they were fine it wasnt feel like the car was misfire bc i have experience with misfires with this car ..and i got back in my car to check the code and my car did not crank at all my lights and radio was just fine so I disconnected my battery terminals and rested the ecu and took off but when i started it it revs super high for no reson and then idles and the engine shake weird cause the car exsuaht sound choppy if that make sense and my codes from autozne scantool was p0606 code and a hard code that said throttle body acuator
Sounds like your throttle body assembly has failed.
@@axleung1 sounds like you were wrong it was the ecu thxs for tho I appreciate it
Thanks for the update. This is good to know. Basically ECM failure is the likely culprit whenever reset of battery gets the car running again.