Mikes friend is a classic example of a talented person teaching. He just is naturally good at dynos so he doesn't have much to say about Mikes form. Someone who has had to really put effort into learning the technique has much better understanding of what actually makes a good dyno.
Being talented doesn't make them a worse teacher, i think being analytical of body positioning and form comes with time for everyone. When someone is talented, its the 'feel' that gets them into the correct position and putting that into words is difficult.
@titotatitod6846 you just explained my point in other words. If you only have the feel and have not done the analytical work -> naturally talented, you are worse at giving advice. How can you say that: "being talented doesn't make them a worse teacher" and "when someone is talented, its the 'feel' that gets them into the correct position and putting that into words is difficult". Aren't those contraditory? You literally say that its the analytical work that makes them a better teacher. I understand that being talented won't make you a worse teacher but to be a good teacher you have to have done the analytical work which might not happen if you are naturally talented. Being naturally talented removes the requirement of understanding the movement.
I think the friend did give Mike solid advice, but Mike completely ignored it and his friend wasn't pushy enough to say no stop that, don't lead with your hands. So I think it's more of an assertiveness thing rather than a lack of understanding
Repeating dynos after you got them the first time is the real game changer. They will feel easy and it allows the moves to become part of your repertoire!
How I stopped being scared of dynos: I stopped trying the dynos the setters put on the wall and made my own out of V0s and 1s. Found a good jug or two to start on with solid feet and started jumping to higher and higher jugs up the rungs of the ladder climb. Really helped having the lower jugs I had already gotten as bail outs. Not because I needed them, but because it gave me the peace of mind to jump past the fear. Good work Mike :)
I do that pretty much every session as a warm up. I've also played Climb-golf with friends where you end up doing similar moves on easy problems to use the least amount of holds possible.
One thing im continued to be impressed by, is your climbing commitment. Even when youre out of breath and the conditions are not ideal, you still push through it. Its hard not to cop out.
Dyno projecting checklist: 1. If possible climb to the end position and feel around what feels stable. Aim for that position in the dyno. 2. Often it is best to land straight below the end hold. This reduces the swing you will get afterward. 3. Start the movement with hips out of the wall and aim to catch the hold when your hips are below the hold or if your feet have holds to use aim to have your hips close to the wall when catching the hold. 4. One and done. Don't pump multiple times. Relax your body as much as you can to sink deep into the pump and as your stretch reflex starts to contract your muscles explode into a dyno. 5. Usually legs do the heavy lifting in dynos. So focus on footwork. 6. And maybe the most important thing. Practice failing safely. Think how you should act if something goes wrong. Often the correct answer is to push away from the wall with all limbs. This will move you away from any holds that might have otherwise been in your way. The matt is always softer than the wall even if you fall on it in a strange way. (You should also practice falling safely in general)
Also, break or down into easier steps! 1. Try to just touch the hold you're going for. 2. If you need to land an arm and a leg at the same time, try them separately. 3. Try to dyno from an easier hold. 4. If applicable, try to do it from the ground.
I’ve always found that watching my feet as I dynamically move across the wall helps dramatically. It feels natural to want to lead with your hands and let your feet catch up, but honestly I’ve found it’s easier to focus on your feet and let your arms/hands catch up as you move. I’m not a pro or anything, it’s just what has helped me thus far. You’re a great climber Mike :) keep it up
Watching you go through the process of dyno's felt like an old memory for me, its shit until it finally clicks and then suddenly you can't stop doing them. BTW that first problem was probably the worst possible dyno to learn on, looked super spicy for getting dyno confidence, but your mate's tips were spot on.
Ging mir auch so - habe einfach rechts oben auf das Zahnrad (Einstellungen) gedrückt und dann unter "Audiotrack" wieder Englisch als das Original ausgewählt. :)
A tip for dynos/any dynamic moves where your going straight up (like the wooden climb you did). Is to think about your hip position. If your hips start close to the wall then you can only fall backwards. However if your hips start back then you rock towards the wall then back again (kind of like a parabola). You want to aim to catch the hold you are going for as your almost momentarily weightless at the peak of the swing. If you watch back the clip of you trying the wooden climb you will probably see what I mean. Your hips start really close to the wall so you are falling backwards as you stand up making the catch a lot more difficult. But if you start by sticking your but out so your hips are further back then it will become easier. Love the video just thought I would share some food for thought
Mike! I used to struggle a lot with dynos because of the reasons you said at the start - lack of confidence, sketchy feet, weird positions. The thing that really got me to understand the movement and power was to think of the dyno in three steps: 1. Treat your body like a spring and if it helps get to the very bottom position as you 'wind up' for the dyno a few times first and just try to get as much stretch out of your arms as you can before launching up. I find its better to practice this separate of actual attempts first and avoid the 'bouncing' on the start holds for ages to work up to launching. Get confident just getting on the wall, use your weight to get down low to the bottom position and then launch without a lot of sitting in the start position. 2. As you jump, I like to think of it as first pivoting around my shoulders and pulling in with my arms to keep the movement close to the wall (a lot of the time you see people forget to pull in with their arms and end up getting the right height but no way near the wall), and then at the point where my chest is above the starting hand holds and I feel like I can't get anything else, then I think of the jump with my legs. 3. Theres a point where you reach the highest you can go with your arms on the wall and as you push with your legs there's almost a 'pause' feeling that is the cue to really jump and push off with your legs. To me the most useful thing I realised was that pause position, as it allowed me to practice dynos almost as two separate movements - arms pull in, then legs push off. Theres a surprising amount of time you have in the pause if you give the bottom swing up a lot of momentum, which is why the spring analogy helps.
I always see dynos as a body motion puzzle. It's about landing in the right position, once you have landed it, it always feels easy cause you solved the puzzle. It helps to climb your way forward and feel for the position that you'll have to land in. I gives you something to aim for. Print it in your mind and feel how you would land in that position. Then you go for it, practice it, feel what's keeping you from getting into that position. Get your hips out and get them in in a fluid motion. Build up and explode, visualizing the position you want to land in.
Its so inspiring to see how amazingly well you did thru not bailing out. I hate dynos my comfort zone is controlled static always. I wimp out after just a few goes, crap I know. I don’t mind letting one hand off to grab first but 2 is like another level of dread. That last dyno was epic, no chance you were gonna give up for that finish, looked impossible to me.
Oh man, I really felt that effort at the end of the red(pink?) route! That was truly mind over matter 💪 I got quite inspired, gotta hit our local climbing gym more often! Thanks for sharing your successes, but especially the raw struggle is inspiring! ❤️ all the best to you and your crew/family!
i continue to believe in your growth as a climber, mike boyd. maybe we will one day bear witness to you doing amazing flashy dynos like we might see in those competitive climbing competitions.
The best tip I've ever gotten for dynos is this: Use your legs to go up, and only use your arms to hold you in close to the wall. The more you let your body come away from the wall, the harder the dyno will be.
One tip that I have for executing boulders is using your hips for movement. For longer jumps they follow after your shoulders and for shorter jumps you can swing them out to get that initial reach
just tested the spanish auto-translated language track and "dyno" is being translated as "dinosaur"! don't want to take away from the video, is super inspiring for beginners and not so beginners :___ a tip if you are doing dozens of attempts because you're learning to dyno, wear the shoes you won't get upset they will wear off because they will wear off very very quickly.
Honestly, it's the same for me, I absolutely hate dynos - especially if they're set on a slab with some horrible dual text holds, but it doers always make it more rewarding when you finally manage them! Well done on the commitment to them - keep it up and I'm sure we'll be seeing you doing huge paddle dynos soon
I also find dynos very challenging. Someone has probably said this in the comments already, but for me a game changing strategy for dynos in the gym that initially seem impossible, was to start by adding cheat foot or hand holds to make it slightly easier, optimize technique and then incrementally increase the distance until you can do the actual move.
Hey Mike! Loved the video - it's been awesome watching your climbing journey unfold. It's inspiring to see you pushing your limits, especially with dynamic movements. I'm totally obsessed with dynos and have spent a lot of time breaking down the technique side of things. If you ever want tips or need help with a specific dyno, feel free to reach out! For example, in this video, when you were working on the second dyno, I noticed you were over-pumping during the setup. This is a super common habit, sometimes it can be helpful, but in most cases, a single, well-executed pump is much more efficient and saves you a ton of energy. Keep up the great work, and let me know if you want to dive deeper into any of this!
a tip for people who wants to start doing dynos. jump down after a climb. dont climb down slowly. doing dyno needs a lot of confidence, and one of the limiting factor for that is the fear of falling (especially from higher points). so get yourself used to falling and you can then start to take jumps with more confidence! :)
My biggest helpful learning with (some) dynos was to start with my hips away from the wall, pull them in while driving upwards with the leg, and grabbing holds in the moment of weightlessness. The hips are super powerful for momentum and this skill has helped me achieve some really difficult moves that would require extreme strength if done statically.
Something i have found helped is on your warm up pick really easy climbs on slab or vertical and try to climb them one handed. First one hand then the other. It really helps with moving dynamically and judging the right amount of power you need which is important for us smaller climbers. Also lead with your hips. Where your hips go, you go...
A tip that helped me a lot, is to aim higher than the actual hold and really fokus on going there. Because even if your body holds back, you'll be able to make the move.
If you're trying to learn about bolstering your dynamic movement skills, well it's clearly time to get Toby Segar on this channel. I'd love to see you both doing some dynamic training together
1. take the dyno step by step - foot position, then movement + momentum , then touch holds , then if y have enough momentum - change your mindset and grab it .. 100% commitment 2. break down the movement geometrically ... how does the move work so your foot does not slip ? e.g. for the first boulder : your hip has to move into the wall and up, to achieve this you use the handholds to stabilize the upward movement like a half circle (rotate across your arms), this way you get momentum up and into the wall .. when you then press the foot - its an outward / so to say "wrong" movement , cause else it will slip eventually - the resultong momentum goes to the grops on the end of the dyno
Really cool to see your improvement on dynos, but what impressed me the most is your determination to keep trying. I usually just avoid my greatest enemy in the climbing gym: SLABS... And whenever I give it a go, I'll slip and get even more scared 😨
I know this is a bit of a weird request, but in the future if you end up doing a collab video with someone with a lot of experience, would it be possible for you to do a video on how to fall? I've never been scared of dynos, but the high heel hang at 13:05 is the sort of move that terrifies me. It's very similar to a position where I slipped out of a heel hook which resulted in the momentum ripping my hands off the hold, and then had an uncontrolled fall landing in a sitting position, really injuring my lower back. Since then I've been petrified of any situation where I can't do the classic controlled fall (onto your feet with bent legs, arms in, roll on to your back), and it's really limiting what I can climb. Basically anything steeper than 15 degrees or so I'm scared of unless it's very low to the ground (like 3:57). I've really been struggling to find good advice about what to do in that sort of situation save for avoiding it entirely, since it's one of those things that people don't really think about until they have a fall where it matters. I feel like a video about being safe while doing moves where you can't reliably land on your feet if you have an uncontrolled fall would be really valuable, both how to know when to bail and what best to do to prevent seriously hurting yourself. Absolutely love this channel, can't want to keep watching your progress!
To practice dynamic moves that you don't manage to do yet, one easy path is to simplify the move with holds that you can find around (but take care to keep practicing the same move and not changing it even if it becomes possible with the easiest version) for instance on the last boulder you could have tried the move with the green hand hold a little on the left. This way the move is a little smaller and you can tell your brain that it's possible. Once you nail the easiest version, you can switch to an harder one until you finally try the boulder itself. I think it was possible to do so also on the first boulder : practice with easier holds but focus on letting go both hands.
Interesting perspective. As someone who started quite overweight and has gotten fitter over time, I've always had 2 main styles: slab and dynos. Both of these do not require a terribly high amount of strength or fitness (which I had 0 of due to lack of athleticism), so the idea that I could get better by repetition and slowly figuring out movements appealed to me much more than having to suffer and do strength-related workouts + lose weight in order to one day be good at overhanging climbs. 2 Years later and I'm still always drawn to slabs and dynos and they are definitely my two strongest skills, while steep overhangs and crimps are still my absolute nightmares, but I'm getting there.
Ha ha - dynos are my nemesis too! And because I've got a crap wingspan I find I have to do far more dynamic moves than some of my taller/longer-armed peers even when it's not part of the intended beta - simply to reach stuff. 😢 I'm very like you in wanting to find a static method wherever possible. 😂 I still suck at them (heck I'm still a newbie) but a few things are starting to help: · taking easier boulders/routes and progressively eliminating more and more holds to do the problem in as few moves as possible (until you have no choice but to jump for it!) · one-handed climbing drills, especially on slabs - this is more about deadpointing, but does help with getting to trust your feet, using hips, and being comfortable not holding onto anything for a brief moment · doing sets of squat/jump/catches up to a pull-up bar (something like 2-3 sets of 5 jumps) during my warm-up, to practise driving from the legs and improving contract strength (i still can't do an actual pull-up but that's irrelevant here. 🙃). One caveat: careful with your Achilles here. I'm trying to strengthen mine with calf raises. · generally practising using hips more to generate momentum, regardless of whether the move is an actual dyno or not - Alex Puccio is great at explaining this (see ROAP coaching YT channel, but she also did one with Hannah Morris a while back). One thing i don't really do is repeated practise of the individual component parts of the dyno - probably because i still avoid intentional dyno boulders. 😅 But perhaps that's something i can start working on... 🤔
the trick to not slipping off volumes is matching the angle of the volume with your foot, keeping as much surface area of the shoe on the volume. More rubber on=more grip
@@MikeBoydClimbsbut more importantly, you need to be putting force on the rubber. All the rubber isn't going to activate it's grip when you're not standing on it properly
@@acasccseea4434 Yes! @MikeBoyedClimbs It's counter intuitive but the harder you press into the volume the better grip you will have. When your feet are hesitant there isn't as much weight going through them and that lack of friction causes more slips
The one thing that helped me understand jumping is the idea of getting my hip close to the wall first, before generating momentum and actually jump That way you don't jump out of the wall too much
dynos are also usually more suited for young guns not us old dudes. Ive been climbing 2-5 days per week for 12 years. but started at 31 so came into the sport late. Ive sent 25+ v8s 0r harder (outside) and yet v4 dynos are hard for me. Part of it is just landing hard or falling awkwardly and not wanting to get hurt.
to be fair you did start with a pretty tough dyno from what it looks on camera. i started by climbing a v1 problem (preferably a route that goes straight up) and each time i complete it i get rid of 1 hand hold. by the end of the drill it looks like: getting on the start hold, maybe doing the first move and dynoing to the top. (the boulder i used is very short, 6 holds or something)
Think about your hip movement (start, mid flight , end position) and less about your hands/arms. When you have the correct body position your arms will automatically do the right thing. Still cool to see that you finally start training dynos. If you keep doing it for some time you get addicted as to normal climbing:D
Sometimes I watch people climbing slopers and I just can't fathom how they can have so much more grip than me. Definitely a technique that requires practice
I avoid crimpy problems. I will jump 100 times to avoid a sharp little crimp, if anything dyno and co-ordination are the styles that come most naturally for me.
I love dynos, although I do have to question the route setters sometimes on some really committing moves that could get you really hurt. Campussing is more my forte :) Also lmk if you want to try and re-visit your backflip challenge. Good to see james and avw
Im almost the opposite, if I can dyno I will. maybe it comes with being a young new climber or maybe its just easier for me, whatever the reason I just have fun doing dynos.
Ooooh feeling you Mike! I'm tall but heavy (190cm, 104kg), going straight up is rarely a problem, I have strong legs and rather more reach than the average climber. But those traversing moves, maybe landing on a small shit foothold as well then - naaaaaah. Sooo scary!
Slopers (and pinches) in overhang just kills me, but I try to get at least one every time I go. Not great at dynos either, probably because I can usually static them 😂 They really are great fun though 😄
you need to focus on penduluming your hips away from the wall at the start then pulling with your foot to pull your hips close to the wall as you stand up. There should be very little pulling with your arms. Legs are the engine and arms are the steering
I don’t think avoiding dynos if you don’t enjoy is a bad habit. It depends on why you climb. Are you prepping for comps? Are you there for a workout and you enjoy being on a wall? I hate slab, I don’t go near it. It’s okay. My World Cup career is not in jeopardy
I hate anything dynamic (either deadpoint or dyno) onto crimps and moves with "risky" hands (crimps & slopers) & bad feet (basically the same stuff I injured myself on last year 😅. Thou I am slowly pushing through my fear of crimping, I can usually do 2 crimpy somewhat powerful climbs a session now, before I'd get too scared, then could only do one, and now I can do two. Bucket/jug dynos are my favourite, I genuinely enjoy them. And anything with super technical but bomb proof feet I eat for breakfast lunch n tea. I even broke a climb's beta this week with super techie feet 😅
It is so interesting to me that you've done a massive mutli-pitch trad climb but dynos are scary to you. I can dyno with zero fear but I would be TERRIFIED to trad climb!!!
Does anybody know how to turn off automatic translation of video titles? In this case, it translates "dynos" as the dynos you put your car on to measure power...
Die Audio Übersetzung ist solange ok bis man selbst vor der Kamera redet, wird bestimmt eines tages so sein das es 1zu1 in allen Sprachen perfekt übersetzt wird aber ich schau das Video in originaler Sprache an da es so mehr Spaß macht. Super Video Danke🙏
Your subconscious is correct here: There's no reason to be focusing on these when they're not in your bailiwick. Once you've run out of room for improvement in other aspects of climbing, sure. But picking up a niche skill that you don't enjoy and won't get much out of? That's not good for your overall progression.
It should work like this: 25% off until 2nd December 15% off + free shipping after 2nd December Hopefully the 25% off saves you more than 15% + free shipping. It's confusing, I know!
If you join the church of dynology you get a +20% skill boost in dynoing
I'll join now then
@@MikeBoydClimbs@ClimbingStuff
REAL
True, but they are into some weird sci-fi stuff and have a lot of lawyers, I wouldn't risk it.
@@zeus000.00 dynology means no fiction. all real dynos
Mikes friend is a classic example of a talented person teaching. He just is naturally good at dynos so he doesn't have much to say about Mikes form. Someone who has had to really put effort into learning the technique has much better understanding of what actually makes a good dyno.
Naturals aren't good teachers cause they were never struggling learners
Being talented doesn't make them a worse teacher, i think being analytical of body positioning and form comes with time for everyone. When someone is talented, its the 'feel' that gets them into the correct position and putting that into words is difficult.
@titotatitod6846 you just explained my point in other words. If you only have the feel and have not done the analytical work -> naturally talented, you are worse at giving advice.
How can you say that: "being talented doesn't make them a worse teacher" and "when someone is talented, its the 'feel' that gets them into the correct position and putting that into words is difficult". Aren't those contraditory? You literally say that its the analytical work that makes them a better teacher.
I understand that being talented won't make you a worse teacher but to be a good teacher you have to have done the analytical work which might not happen if you are naturally talented. Being naturally talented removes the requirement of understanding the movement.
This would've been the perfect video for a colab with catalyst climbing
I think the friend did give Mike solid advice, but Mike completely ignored it and his friend wasn't pushy enough to say no stop that, don't lead with your hands.
So I think it's more of an assertiveness thing rather than a lack of understanding
Repeating dynos after you got them the first time is the real game changer. They will feel easy and it allows the moves to become part of your repertoire!
How I stopped being scared of dynos:
I stopped trying the dynos the setters put on the wall and made my own out of V0s and 1s. Found a good jug or two to start on with solid feet and started jumping to higher and higher jugs up the rungs of the ladder climb. Really helped having the lower jugs I had already gotten as bail outs. Not because I needed them, but because it gave me the peace of mind to jump past the fear.
Good work Mike :)
This is what I've started doing as well. Real game changer.
I do that pretty much every session as a warm up. I've also played Climb-golf with friends where you end up doing similar moves on easy problems to use the least amount of holds possible.
One thing im continued to be impressed by, is your climbing commitment.
Even when youre out of breath and the conditions are not ideal, you still push through it. Its hard not to cop out.
Thanks so much!
Dyno projecting checklist:
1. If possible climb to the end position and feel around what feels stable. Aim for that position in the dyno.
2. Often it is best to land straight below the end hold. This reduces the swing you will get afterward.
3. Start the movement with hips out of the wall and aim to catch the hold when your hips are below the hold or if your feet have holds to use aim to have your hips close to the wall when catching the hold.
4. One and done. Don't pump multiple times. Relax your body as much as you can to sink deep into the pump and as your stretch reflex starts to contract your muscles explode into a dyno.
5. Usually legs do the heavy lifting in dynos. So focus on footwork.
6. And maybe the most important thing. Practice failing safely. Think how you should act if something goes wrong. Often the correct answer is to push away from the wall with all limbs. This will move you away from any holds that might have otherwise been in your way. The matt is always softer than the wall even if you fall on it in a strange way. (You should also practice falling safely in general)
Also, break or down into easier steps!
1. Try to just touch the hold you're going for.
2. If you need to land an arm and a leg at the same time, try them separately.
3. Try to dyno from an easier hold.
4. If applicable, try to do it from the ground.
I’ve always found that watching my feet as I dynamically move across the wall helps dramatically. It feels natural to want to lead with your hands and let your feet catch up, but honestly I’ve found it’s easier to focus on your feet and let your arms/hands catch up as you move. I’m not a pro or anything, it’s just what has helped me thus far. You’re a great climber Mike :) keep it up
Watching you go through the process of dyno's felt like an old memory for me, its shit until it finally clicks and then suddenly you can't stop doing them. BTW that first problem was probably the worst possible dyno to learn on, looked super spicy for getting dyno confidence, but your mate's tips were spot on.
it's stuck in german for me? UA-cam testing some automatic voiceover thing, I guess they forgot english maybe?
Same here. Can pick every language except English…
@@mvaneijgen change language in your google profile, not in youtube. had the same issue
Ging mir auch so - habe einfach rechts oben auf das Zahnrad (Einstellungen) gedrückt und dann unter "Audiotrack" wieder Englisch als das Original ausgewählt. :)
Bei mir hat UA-cam einfach das Wort "dyno'" im Titel als Leistungsprüfungstand übersetzt. Die sollten echt nicht anfangen Titel zu übersetzen.
A tip for dynos/any dynamic moves where your going straight up (like the wooden climb you did). Is to think about your hip position. If your hips start close to the wall then you can only fall backwards. However if your hips start back then you rock towards the wall then back again (kind of like a parabola). You want to aim to catch the hold you are going for as your almost momentarily weightless at the peak of the swing. If you watch back the clip of you trying the wooden climb you will probably see what I mean. Your hips start really close to the wall so you are falling backwards as you stand up making the catch a lot more difficult. But if you start by sticking your but out so your hips are further back then it will become easier.
Love the video just thought I would share some food for thought
Mike! I used to struggle a lot with dynos because of the reasons you said at the start - lack of confidence, sketchy feet, weird positions. The thing that really got me to understand the movement and power was to think of the dyno in three steps:
1. Treat your body like a spring and if it helps get to the very bottom position as you 'wind up' for the dyno a few times first and just try to get as much stretch out of your arms as you can before launching up. I find its better to practice this separate of actual attempts first and avoid the 'bouncing' on the start holds for ages to work up to launching. Get confident just getting on the wall, use your weight to get down low to the bottom position and then launch without a lot of sitting in the start position.
2. As you jump, I like to think of it as first pivoting around my shoulders and pulling in with my arms to keep the movement close to the wall (a lot of the time you see people forget to pull in with their arms and end up getting the right height but no way near the wall), and then at the point where my chest is above the starting hand holds and I feel like I can't get anything else, then I think of the jump with my legs.
3. Theres a point where you reach the highest you can go with your arms on the wall and as you push with your legs there's almost a 'pause' feeling that is the cue to really jump and push off with your legs.
To me the most useful thing I realised was that pause position, as it allowed me to practice dynos almost as two separate movements - arms pull in, then legs push off. Theres a surprising amount of time you have in the pause if you give the bottom swing up a lot of momentum, which is why the spring analogy helps.
I always see dynos as a body motion puzzle. It's about landing in the right position, once you have landed it, it always feels easy cause you solved the puzzle. It helps to climb your way forward and feel for the position that you'll have to land in. I gives you something to aim for. Print it in your mind and feel how you would land in that position. Then you go for it, practice it, feel what's keeping you from getting into that position. Get your hips out and get them in in a fluid motion. Build up and explode, visualizing the position you want to land in.
Its so inspiring to see how amazingly well you did thru not bailing out. I hate dynos my comfort zone is controlled static always. I wimp out after just a few goes, crap I know. I don’t mind letting one hand off to grab first but 2 is like another level of dread. That last dyno was epic, no chance you were gonna give up for that finish, looked impossible to me.
I love how supportive your partner is in every video
Oh man, I really felt that effort at the end of the red(pink?) route! That was truly mind over matter 💪 I got quite inspired, gotta hit our local climbing gym more often! Thanks for sharing your successes, but especially the raw struggle is inspiring! ❤️ all the best to you and your crew/family!
i continue to believe in your growth as a climber, mike boyd.
maybe we will one day bear witness to you doing amazing flashy dynos like we might see in those competitive climbing competitions.
your upload times are always so good for me
Happy to hear that!
@@MikeBoydClimbs Can you add audio track for english? Its broken for everybody
he fixed it thanks
The best tip I've ever gotten for dynos is this: Use your legs to go up, and only use your arms to hold you in close to the wall. The more you let your body come away from the wall, the harder the dyno will be.
Great progress! I loved seeing your “ah-ha” moments. Those are the moments that make climbing so dang great
One tip that I have for executing boulders is using your hips for movement.
For longer jumps they follow after your shoulders and for shorter jumps you can swing them out to get that initial reach
just tested the spanish auto-translated language track and "dyno" is being translated as "dinosaur"!
don't want to take away from the video, is super inspiring for beginners and not so beginners :___
a tip if you are doing dozens of attempts because you're learning to dyno, wear the shoes you won't get upset they will wear off because they will wear off very very quickly.
Honestly, it's the same for me, I absolutely hate dynos - especially if they're set on a slab with some horrible dual text holds, but it doers always make it more rewarding when you finally manage them! Well done on the commitment to them - keep it up and I'm sure we'll be seeing you doing huge paddle dynos soon
Can confirm the worst part about dynos is looking stupid but I still love em
I also find dynos very challenging. Someone has probably said this in the comments already, but for me a game changing strategy for dynos in the gym that initially seem impossible, was to start by adding cheat foot or hand holds to make it slightly easier, optimize technique and then incrementally increase the distance until you can do the actual move.
Hey Mike! Loved the video - it's been awesome watching your climbing journey unfold. It's inspiring to see you pushing your limits, especially with dynamic movements. I'm totally obsessed with dynos and have spent a lot of time breaking down the technique side of things. If you ever want tips or need help with a specific dyno, feel free to reach out!
For example, in this video, when you were working on the second dyno, I noticed you were over-pumping during the setup. This is a super common habit, sometimes it can be helpful, but in most cases, a single, well-executed pump is much more efficient and saves you a ton of energy. Keep up the great work, and let me know if you want to dive deeper into any of this!
a tip for people who wants to start doing dynos. jump down after a climb. dont climb down slowly. doing dyno needs a lot of confidence, and one of the limiting factor for that is the fear of falling (especially from higher points). so get yourself used to falling and you can then start to take jumps with more confidence! :)
My biggest helpful learning with (some) dynos was to start with my hips away from the wall, pull them in while driving upwards with the leg, and grabbing holds in the moment of weightlessness. The hips are super powerful for momentum and this skill has helped me achieve some really difficult moves that would require extreme strength if done statically.
Something i have found helped is on your warm up pick really easy climbs on slab or vertical and try to climb them one handed. First one hand then the other. It really helps with moving dynamically and judging the right amount of power you need which is important for us smaller climbers. Also lead with your hips. Where your hips go, you go...
A tip that helped me a lot, is to aim higher than the actual hold and really fokus on going there.
Because even if your body holds back, you'll be able to make the move.
If you're trying to learn about bolstering your dynamic movement skills, well it's clearly time to get Toby Segar on this channel. I'd love to see you both doing some dynamic training together
1. take the dyno step by step - foot position, then movement + momentum , then touch holds , then if y have enough momentum - change your mindset and grab it .. 100% commitment
2. break down the movement geometrically ... how does the move work so your foot does not slip ? e.g. for the first boulder : your hip has to move into the wall and up, to achieve this you use the handholds to stabilize the upward movement like a half circle (rotate across your arms), this way you get momentum up and into the wall .. when you then press the foot - its an outward / so to say "wrong" movement , cause else it will slip eventually - the resultong momentum goes to the grops on the end of the dyno
Really cool to see your improvement on dynos, but what impressed me the most is your determination to keep trying. I usually just avoid my greatest enemy in the climbing gym: SLABS... And whenever I give it a go, I'll slip and get even more scared 😨
I know this is a bit of a weird request, but in the future if you end up doing a collab video with someone with a lot of experience, would it be possible for you to do a video on how to fall?
I've never been scared of dynos, but the high heel hang at 13:05 is the sort of move that terrifies me. It's very similar to a position where I slipped out of a heel hook which resulted in the momentum ripping my hands off the hold, and then had an uncontrolled fall landing in a sitting position, really injuring my lower back. Since then I've been petrified of any situation where I can't do the classic controlled fall (onto your feet with bent legs, arms in, roll on to your back), and it's really limiting what I can climb. Basically anything steeper than 15 degrees or so I'm scared of unless it's very low to the ground (like 3:57).
I've really been struggling to find good advice about what to do in that sort of situation save for avoiding it entirely, since it's one of those things that people don't really think about until they have a fall where it matters. I feel like a video about being safe while doing moves where you can't reliably land on your feet if you have an uncontrolled fall would be really valuable, both how to know when to bail and what best to do to prevent seriously hurting yourself.
Absolutely love this channel, can't want to keep watching your progress!
Loved the video! Thank you 👍
To practice dynamic moves that you don't manage to do yet, one easy path is to simplify the move with holds that you can find around (but take care to keep practicing the same move and not changing it even if it becomes possible with the easiest version) for instance on the last boulder you could have tried the move with the green hand hold a little on the left. This way the move is a little smaller and you can tell your brain that it's possible. Once you nail the easiest version, you can switch to an harder one until you finally try the boulder itself. I think it was possible to do so also on the first boulder : practice with easier holds but focus on letting go both hands.
I was fuming when I saw your head pop up but it was the top 5% video 🤣🤣🤣 glad there's a new climbing one too 😂👌👌👌
thank you baby for another video
Interesting perspective. As someone who started quite overweight and has gotten fitter over time, I've always had 2 main styles: slab and dynos. Both of these do not require a terribly high amount of strength or fitness (which I had 0 of due to lack of athleticism), so the idea that I could get better by repetition and slowly figuring out movements appealed to me much more than having to suffer and do strength-related workouts + lose weight in order to one day be good at overhanging climbs. 2 Years later and I'm still always drawn to slabs and dynos and they are definitely my two strongest skills, while steep overhangs and crimps are still my absolute nightmares, but I'm getting there.
Ha ha - dynos are my nemesis too! And because I've got a crap wingspan I find I have to do far more dynamic moves than some of my taller/longer-armed peers even when it's not part of the intended beta - simply to reach stuff. 😢 I'm very like you in wanting to find a static method wherever possible. 😂
I still suck at them (heck I'm still a newbie) but a few things are starting to help:
· taking easier boulders/routes and progressively eliminating more and more holds to do the problem in as few moves as possible (until you have no choice but to jump for it!)
· one-handed climbing drills, especially on slabs - this is more about deadpointing, but does help with getting to trust your feet, using hips, and being comfortable not holding onto anything for a brief moment
· doing sets of squat/jump/catches up to a pull-up bar (something like 2-3 sets of 5 jumps) during my warm-up, to practise driving from the legs and improving contract strength (i still can't do an actual pull-up but that's irrelevant here. 🙃). One caveat: careful with your Achilles here. I'm trying to strengthen mine with calf raises.
· generally practising using hips more to generate momentum, regardless of whether the move is an actual dyno or not - Alex Puccio is great at explaining this (see ROAP coaching YT channel, but she also did one with Hannah Morris a while back).
One thing i don't really do is repeated practise of the individual component parts of the dyno - probably because i still avoid intentional dyno boulders. 😅 But perhaps that's something i can start working on... 🤔
the trick to not slipping off volumes is matching the angle of the volume with your foot, keeping as much surface area of the shoe on the volume. More rubber on=more grip
Good advice!
@@MikeBoydClimbsbut more importantly, you need to be putting force on the rubber.
All the rubber isn't going to activate it's grip when you're not standing on it properly
@@acasccseea4434 Yes! @MikeBoyedClimbs It's counter intuitive but the harder you press into the volume the better grip you will have. When your feet are hesitant there isn't as much weight going through them and that lack of friction causes more slips
The one thing that helped me understand jumping is the idea of getting my hip close to the wall first, before generating momentum and actually jump
That way you don't jump out of the wall too much
How short is short like me?
5'6" 168cm
why is there no english audio track is there something going on with my end?
same problem here
Yup same
I suck at overhangs. I blame my build (1m87, 85kg), but I just should start getting stronger and better. Thanks for the motivation and well done!
the breakcore fits climbing videos so well
does anyone else not have english for an audio option?
same
I can't find it either lol
@@gr.4380change in your google profile, not your youtube one
Yes it's horrible. Wtf!
It's really important to get the hips in when doing dynamic movements towards the wall. I'm a bit sad that Mike's friend did not mention this.
i love how you called em dinosors in the french dubing...
I feel your struggle. I feel exactly the same
dynos are also usually more suited for young guns not us old dudes. Ive been climbing 2-5 days per week for 12 years. but started at 31 so came into the sport late. Ive sent 25+ v8s 0r harder (outside) and yet v4 dynos are hard for me. Part of it is just landing hard or falling awkwardly and not wanting to get hurt.
awesome video, love that you put the GOAT of dynos at 5 sec into the video, he is our lord and savior and leader of the church of dynology ;)
🤣
Would be interesting to see you try some board climbing, Tension/Kilter etc.
Video is in the works!
@@MikeBoydClimbs Sick🙏
In this video:
climbing ✅
jungle intro ✅
Nice!
I never thought I'd ever use music like that, but it seemed to fit! Thanks for watching!
Niccceeee, Think it’s time we play with some dynos 🙏🎉
to be fair you did start with a pretty tough dyno from what it looks on camera.
i started by climbing a v1 problem (preferably a route that goes straight up) and each time i complete it i get rid of 1 hand hold.
by the end of the drill it looks like: getting on the start hold, maybe doing the first move and dynoing to the top. (the boulder i used is very short, 6 holds or something)
Think about your hip movement (start, mid flight , end position) and less about your hands/arms. When you have the correct body position your arms will automatically do the right thing.
Still cool to see that you finally start training dynos. If you keep doing it for some time you get addicted as to normal climbing:D
personally my weakness is anything that isn't jugs
Not a style but anything with big slopy holds, feel like I can only pull 5% power on them😭
Sometimes I watch people climbing slopers and I just can't fathom how they can have so much more grip than me. Definitely a technique that requires practice
This is honestly like watching Tom Scott try to ride a bike.
😂😂😂
Managed to fall on my arse a few times trying this recently, going back on saturday to reclaim my dignity
oh well it was nice to touch up on my french while I wait for the english audio to come up...
Always learning here! Sorry about the bug
@@MikeBoydClimbs aha thanks for fixing it, though now I know a bunch of climbing vocab in french so I guess it worked out
uhhh is this stuck on other language audio tracks for anyone else? how to I get it to play in english??
Was coming to the comments for the same problem. Stuck in Spanish for United States settings
anyone else avoid certain styles of boulders in the gym?
Dynos, 10000% dynos. This video resonates with me so much, I'm like 3 minutes in and I've chuckled about 100 times
Anything slopey
As a tall guy i never needed to practice dinos now im awful at them and cant even do dinos grades below me
I avoid crimpy problems. I will jump 100 times to avoid a sharp little crimp, if anything dyno and co-ordination are the styles that come most naturally for me.
Dynos, cuz I my limbs ain't leaving the wall when my life depends on a crappily placed pro
I used to hate slab because I'm bad at it - now I kinda love slab because I'm bad at it;)
I love dynos, although I do have to question the route setters sometimes on some really committing moves that could get you really hurt. Campussing is more my forte :) Also lmk if you want to try and re-visit your backflip challenge. Good to see james and avw
Im almost the opposite, if I can dyno I will. maybe it comes with being a young new climber or maybe its just easier for me, whatever the reason I just have fun doing dynos.
Ooooh feeling you Mike! I'm tall but heavy (190cm, 104kg), going straight up is rarely a problem, I have strong legs and rather more reach than the average climber. But those traversing moves, maybe landing on a small shit foothold as well then - naaaaaah. Sooo scary!
This is awsome earned a subscriber 😮😂
Slopers (and pinches) in overhang just kills me, but I try to get at least one every time I go.
Not great at dynos either, probably because I can usually static them 😂 They really are great fun though 😄
you need to focus on penduluming your hips away from the wall at the start then pulling with your foot to pull your hips close to the wall as you stand up. There should be very little pulling with your arms. Legs are the engine and arms are the steering
its okay mike i suck at them too
thst yellow comp boulder at the end in block10, did you get it?
Cool one!
my single core brain cpu just gets overpowered when having to move several limbs simultaneously
I think dynos are much easier if you are lighter or you'll need stronger legs to make the jumps and arms to catch it
Greasy slopers! How do people make them look so easy?
Honestly, that hold is the greasiest thing I ever climbed
I'm exactly the same I'm not sure if I have trouble giving a random burst of energy or because I'm subconsciously scared I think it's a mix of both.
I don’t think avoiding dynos if you don’t enjoy is a bad habit. It depends on why you climb. Are you prepping for comps? Are you there for a workout and you enjoy being on a wall?
I hate slab, I don’t go near it. It’s okay. My World Cup career is not in jeopardy
I hate anything dynamic (either deadpoint or dyno) onto crimps and moves with "risky" hands (crimps & slopers) & bad feet (basically the same stuff I injured myself on last year 😅. Thou I am slowly pushing through my fear of crimping, I can usually do 2 crimpy somewhat powerful climbs a session now, before I'd get too scared, then could only do one, and now I can do two.
Bucket/jug dynos are my favourite, I genuinely enjoy them. And anything with super technical but bomb proof feet I eat for breakfast lunch n tea. I even broke a climb's beta this week with super techie feet 😅
just go up mate
It is so interesting to me that you've done a massive mutli-pitch trad climb but dynos are scary to you. I can dyno with zero fear but I would be TERRIFIED to trad climb!!!
Does anybody know how to turn off automatic translation of video titles?
In this case, it translates "dynos" as the dynos you put your car on to measure power...
I feel a colab with Louis Parkinson or Toby Segar is coming soon 😂
I'm the king of making an easy dyno into an intensely difficult static move 😅 if you're not screaming with exertion, are you even trying?
This is me!
Do stemmy flexible corner climbing!
Im total ballz at dyno!!! I just cannot comit enough.
You and me both!
would love to see you taking a lesson from louis parkinson!
Die Audio Übersetzung ist solange ok bis man selbst vor der Kamera redet, wird bestimmt eines tages so sein das es 1zu1 in allen Sprachen perfekt übersetzt wird aber ich schau das Video in originaler Sprache an da es so mehr Spaß macht.
Super Video Danke🙏
Why is the audio available in every thing except English. I guess ill watch in french.
It has auto translated dynos as dinosaures
Have you thought of trying some more aggressive shoes
I've tried but I struggle with the pain in more aggressive shoes! It's particularly bad with stiffer shoes!
Fair enough the red chilli’s are very comfy
13:09 Farting Exhaustion 😅
dyno's being translated to dinosaur or dinamometric in spanish haha, i wouldn't use auto translate or IA dubbed.
I had to change the app language to English to get the English language option.
Your subconscious is correct here: There's no reason to be focusing on these when they're not in your bailiwick. Once you've run out of room for improvement in other aspects of climbing, sure. But picking up a niche skill that you don't enjoy and won't get much out of? That's not good for your overall progression.
Why did I get a weird AI-generated German audio track that sounds like car navigation systems 20 years ago first?
i avoid overhang... i just hate it the gym where i climb is not that good so all the over hang is just pure power );
the german title is all messer up dawg 😂
Help mikes stuck dubbed in Spanish
Help it's changed to German idk how
Same here, cant find the english setting
@@Babbian_ I'm having the same problem!
@@Babbian_yeah same for me, what the hell is going on 😅
Same!
that foot is not awful.. is amazing actually.. pump with that legg! c'mon.. you can do it!
i tried mikeboyd and did not get free shipping :( im in the usa
It should work like this:
25% off until 2nd December
15% off + free shipping after 2nd December
Hopefully the 25% off saves you more than 15% + free shipping. It's confusing, I know!
@MikeBoydClimbs thx
@MikeBoydClimbs it's cheaper with 15% and free shipping instead of 25% off lol