Night Shift, please, please stop saying that your not a professional. I cant find anyone on UA-cam that's better than you. You put so much effort into your models and you still think your an amateur, your not. Also stop saying dont use these videos as a guide, well, these videos have the most helpful, informative modeling tips anyone can ask for. So yes Night Shift, I will use them as a guide. Your not a modeling noob, you've been doing this for dozens of years. Your the best.
Not only is he talented with models, he makes his videos entertaining as hell with his personality and jokes! I have no interest in tanks or model making myself, but I am addicted to these videos!
DirtyDan DinoMan I actually like that he says he’s not a professional. Every single person can improve. It is said that no one is the greatest at something because every single person can improve. However, Night Shift is really really good. But I think he knows that no one is truly the best so that’s why he says he isn’t a professional
Hello, I’m a history major, and I love building models. Also, I want you to know, the hastily applied field camos had super soft edges too. Exactly lines stick out in nature because they’re not usually there. It’s why snipers hide their barrels. You do a great job!
I love how you're trying different things with these smaller scale models (smaller than 1/35, that is). It's great to see how you do things out of the norm!
It's so much more enjoyable than using the same methods over and over again. Even if the results aren't 100% perfect, the fun factor is usually through the roof!
Id honestly love to see night shift take a crack at building and painting any 40k imperial guard tanks like a baneblade or Leman Russ MBT. His painting techniques worked wonders for me on one of my old 3rd edition blood angels Baal Predator class MBT that's for sure but I'd love to see how he would go about adding details to IG tanks during assebly.
Martine, hezká práce - a velmi zajímavá kamulfáž. Jestli mohu dvě doporučení, která by mohla být nápomocná. Při takovýchto kamulfážích se občas vyplatí udělat hady z uhutacu/bluetacu (guma na věšení plakátů) a ty pak použít jako masky na měkký přechod mezi barvami. Druhá, jak to chápu tak předloha byla v aktivní službe v poušti, tak se domnívám, že pásy by měly mít spíše kovovou nežli rezavou barvu, protože byly "leštěny" pískem. Díky moc za tvá videa a návody a hodně štěstí!
Thank God for the British and their whacky colors! The original kit from Italeri in 1/35 is now sold by Tamiya/Italeri and the tracks and suspension work on that. Now I understand that there is a controversy (huh?) over tracks and suspension that works, I love it when those options are available.
I just got one of these kits for my 30th birthday. I plan to use it as my first excursion into scratch building parts as, rather than making a Crusader, I plan to convert the kit into a Covenanter Tank. It's a hated tank among most Tank fan communities, but I am a lover of the hated so I'm going to enjoy the process no matter the outcome. Without your videos and advice on building event the simplest of parts, I know this would be a lot more difficult for me. Every time I want to add something new I scour your videos to find ways of trying new things and I'll always be thankful for your channel rekindling my love of model tanks.
I like the soft camo edges because I think it is more realistic as to how the real tanks looked in the field. Think about it: field applied camo was done with an air sprayer alone, there wasn't a bunch of masking tape and paper to make sharp edges, and there wasn't a lot of time to do the camo. Lots of maintenance items were higher priority as they would keep things repaired and running. There wasn't a spray painting booth either, this field applied camo was done outside where the breeze would blow the paint around and dust and dirt were both on the surface and blown onto the wet surface. Which probably explains why the paint wasn't very durable and chipped and wore away pretty quickly. Anyway, I like the soft edges on the camo because I think it looks realistic.
Absolutely true! Me not being 100% happy with the result had to do mostly with my poor mastery of the craft, luckily, as you pointed out, armor models can be very forgiving. Still, I'd rather make a camouflage look sloppy on purpose than on accident 😆
@@NightShiftScaleModels The people in the field painting the camouflage were mechanics who were handed a spray gun and some paint and told what the general scheme was to look like. They weren't experts at painting either. Stop worrying and have fun!
Even though the tried an tested methods give solid results, It's great that you present different techniques. Keeps the channel fresh! ( and helps us noobs alot!)
It just hit, me that I saw quite a few Hungarian products and words (for example in the Tiger F13 video) and it filled me with so much serotonin and now I'm binging your videos since I found your channel a moth or two ago. Anyway, you're an awesome guy and I won't be getting much sleep the following days. :D
At 4.40 I am glad to see the unique Maltese camo version which mimics our rubble walls and yellowish lime stone. Its not often you see Malta mentioned haha. Thanks Uncle Night Shift with love from the tiny island of Malta. Love your videos. got me into modelling again and trying to implement your teachings in my models.
I really like what you've done here so far Martin. Once you add all the weathering most of what you think isn't up to snuff will blend right in. People get too wound up about historical colours as they would *NEVER* look that way in the field! I wish the accuracy hounds would sit back and actually think logically about this. As long as you're close to the colour that's really all you need to do unless of course, you/re depicting a factory fresh paint job... but how boring is that!
Me: started reading a book on the Brits in North Africa and the Middle East during WWII You: Starts building desert Crusader Me: Goes to hobby shop buys a new model:)
Looks pretty good to me Martin. If you're looking for more sharper edges on your camo? This paint scheme is prime for using liquid masking. However if you're looking for historical accuracy... Field applied camo tends to have softer edges... Either way, it's your model. Do what makes you feel good. Cheers bro
Excellent work on this one. Your airbrush skills are improving for sure.... (well they were already great) ....a project like this is perfect practice for that. I also have to keep reminding myself that this isn't 1/35 scale.
Looks great. I have problems with airbrushing too, so I share your enthusiasm to improve my skills. And don’t worry about the very light dark color, it is a desert tank and maybe went trough a sandstorm or is just bleached out by the sun. A great weekend to you too, I have to do tons of homework 🙁. Just a quick sniff on the SP cement and it will work just fine 🤪.
hey shift, good tip if u blow on low pressure. clear the nozzle ofthen with a higher pressure blast. meaning turning on the psi burst blow it. u can use like small collor batches in the cup and work it away asap the ammount, then clear blow it with some cleaner and put back in some of the same batch where u where blowing with going low psi, the truck is, keeping the nozzle open, because that causes the sputtering
Uncle Nightshift, your videos are amazing. I look forward to them all week. Do you recommend buying pretty made extras such as stowage or 3D printing them?
Uncle Night Shift. I ALWAYS frre hand my cammo. One technique I tried last year on NATO Leclerc, was to mark out the different colored splotches with a brush in that splotch color, so I had my boundaries clearly marked. Then I filled them in with the airbrush. This gave the edges of the splotches a harder look. Next time I will try putty.
It's nice to see you work with an airbrush and make mistakes because I am currently struggling with my first soft-edge camo pattern on a Tamiya Czech T-55A.
Don’t beat yourself up about soft paint edges the tankers likely didn’t make a sharp edge either, if anything the soft edges add to the realism. Love your videos!
Nice job! You know; I have been thinning Tamiya paints with alcohol for at least 25 years. But, I have NOT been able to source any for at least 6 months. So, I think I am going to have to start using their lacquer thinner like you did. If you want a semi-soft edge on camouflage; use a rope of modeling clay. But, even without it; that is a nice camouflage job. See you next week.
Another great video Martin! I really enjoy the Tamiya 1/48 armour builds, they are quick to get going so you don't lose momentum. A question - what type of microphone setup are you using for your lovely voiceover - nice and clear? Cheers, Chris
I think it turned out great. I'm not really sure about the lighter tone of "black" for the camo but as long as you're happy with it, then it is fine. I remember cleaning some areas that I've overspray with a little bit of thinner and a soft brush... and apparently worked fine but your base color must be very strong and super dry so it doesn't get damaged by thinners.
Cool camo scheme! reminds me of the Mickey Mouse camo scheme I did on my m-10 Achilles(my profile picture) Also thank you for the extra details on airbrushing it really helps me out
Mickey Mouse camo is so cool, I did it on my 3 inch Gun Carrier which I finished about 3 or 4 years ago, and I'd love to do it again on this channel, maybe on the new Tamiya Archer?
Hey night shift, I have an idea for a model and a diorama. I was thinking you make a tank that has a lot of pieces of a wall or big debris on it. And the diorama is the outside of a building with the tank coming through it
hello, I really liked it) I also reviewed the video with the tiger from April 1945 and wanted to ask, were the skating rinks late or early ?, just a lot of controversy on the Internet😅
I'm curious, I want to get into models, they look like a lot of fun, and couple that with hard work to make something come together, and it looks so rewarding. Where and what is a good place to start? Any paints I should look at as a beginner, brands specific? What should I avoid in terms of products? Whats a solid starter air brush to buy? Any info is much appreciated.
Tamiya are a good balance of detail and very good fit, any of their kits from the last 20 years are pretty solid, use scalemates.com to look the kit up and see how old the moulds are. Iwata Neo double action is a pretty cost effective brush and will do a lot of what youre going to ask of an airbrush, going to need a compressor to run it, get one with a tank and a regulator, or add an inline reg to dial in your pressure, alternativly you can get away with a couple cans of tamiya spray paint and just light layers.. Tamiya acrylic is good paint, much better when thinned with either their lacquer thinner (orange or yellow cap) or Gunze Mr.leveling thinner, its tough to brush paint though, Vallejo is good for brushing, I havent tried others such as AK acrylics for this. WHat are you looking to build, aircraft? armour? sci-fi? Aircraft and armour id say Tamiya is a great bang for the buck, the late 90's tamiya 1/48 Spitfires, mustangs, and FW-190 are great fitting and pretty simple kits, picking up an eduard canopy mask makes spraying these much easier. Armour, starting with a solid tamiya kit will probably be more enjoyable than diving into a huge dragon or takom kit with a thousand individual track links and multi piece hull, look at the newer Tamiya panther D, M4a3e8 sherman or the french and russian tanks theyve released recently. Sci-fi Bandai has an awesome line of starwars kits that are super fun. Worth picking up a bottle of tamiya extra thin cement and a pair of micro-set and micro-sol decal solutions to help set and melt your decals into all the panel lines and rivets. Hope this helps a bit, its a greta hobby that you can constantly learn new ideas with!
Airfix and Revell makes starter sets that comes with paint, glue and brush included. You don't specifically need an airbrush to make good models, you can make them look good with a brush and spraycans just like Matt (Model Minutes) does. "What should I avoid in terms of products?" Mistercraft kits, their decals are horrible (they dissolve in the water) and the parts don't usually fit.
For airbrush, if you can afford it, an Iwata should be perfect. The Eclipse seems nice. I bought a not so cheap Badger 150 20 years ago, sure it works, but wasn't good for details. Then I added an Iwata HP-B+ and the difference is impressive ( a lot more than the price difference).
Watching the post shading I couldn't shake out of my head that maybe distressing can be still used with it for more interest, maybe start with a very noticeable distressing, with colours quite different from each other so then post shading can come in and tone it down... Just an idea :D
@@NightShiftScaleModels Hey, do you remember when you made the exhausts on the Chi-ri? maybe first priming with a clear gray, then chipping fluid and then a much darker gray could do the distressing and afterwards add the colours along the post shading phase
The Black on the camo was slate grey so lucky you used a grey lol I'm doing a modulation of pre shading then the light stone dusted and then the darker middlestone like you done with your tamya dark grime it's kinda similar shade! Now away to lighten it with the first light stone lightened! It's like speaking in riddles when it comes to modelling lol
Border models is bringing out the mk3 crusader in 1.35 scale this year cant wait! That's the same way i work myself post shading after the pre shading too just to give it more worn fading control is much better I agree, one thing I hate with vallejos sand, stones and khakis the pigments don't seem to break down and clog like grit in the tip of the airbrush! Even if thinned to water as a mistake it still clogged like sand in a hose! Yuk haha! I'll have to get some tamyia to try life colour are not as bad but still get a bit! Ah i see your having problems with the stone paints too there! It's the pigments they don't break down! Same in all the sands and caunter scheme colours its not you! Sometimes you just have to crack out the white tac and use it for your mask!
what are your thoughts of putting a dark layer down first on the white primer? Covering all of the panel breaks and crevasses. Then putting your base coat down. Seems like that might be easier and give the desired effect.
Hey, Night Shift! This is rather unrelated to the video, but do you mind telling me what superglue debonder you are using? I've tried several now and none of them have worked so far. Also great videos, keep it up!
I would be grateful for advice. I have a 1:87 scale plastic model of a steam locomotive and I would like to close a cabin window. At the end it shouldn't be noticed that the window was closed but it should look like it never was. I was thinking of dissolving a few pieces of plastic from the locomotive (it's all in one color) in Tamiya's cement to get a putty of the same color as the cabin. Could you tell me some other method or help me. I hope I was clear.
You'll need a sheet of styrene to close it off, such as one from Evergreen or Plastruct. Trace the shape of the window on the sheet, cut it out, glue in place, fill, sand, fill, sand, repeat until it looks like it was never there!
You should try a Zenthal prime next time! Prime the whole model in black, then the lighter parts in grey, then the highest/lightest points in white, it'll achieve some really nice an easy Shadow!
Hoping that future AK Real Color Guides are going to be printed with a simulated light stone blob on page 163 and referred to as "the Night Shift edition"
Dear uncle Night shift you could go over the soft black edges made with the air brush with a paint brush to give it a bolder transition, would give the camo a more in scale look and even go over it later with black oil paint so you could control how sharp you want the transition to be to match how the troops did it in the field 💯
*Ok, ok, a WW2 desert camouflage by NS ... hum very good! You don't have many experience with an airbrush, are you sure of this? I don't think so! 😀😁😋 AMAZING! 👏👏👏*
Please make an F-14 in any scale! I want to see how you will do the weathering on it! That plane is a good opportunity for practice weathering, and shading techniques.
Night Shift, please, please stop saying that your not a professional. I cant find anyone on UA-cam that's better than you. You put so much effort into your models and you still think your an amateur, your not. Also stop saying dont use these videos as a guide, well, these videos have the most helpful, informative modeling tips anyone can ask for. So yes Night Shift, I will use them as a guide. Your not a modeling noob, you've been doing this for dozens of years. Your the best.
Night Shift is definitely the best armor modeller I've ever seen, no one gets even close to his mastery
Not only is he talented with models, he makes his videos entertaining as hell with his personality and jokes! I have no interest in tanks or model making myself, but I am addicted to these videos!
DirtyDan DinoMan I actually like that he says he’s not a professional. Every single person can improve. It is said that no one is the greatest at something because every single person can improve. However, Night Shift is really really good. But I think he knows that no one is truly the best so that’s why he says he isn’t a professional
I dont know, he is good, but Plasmo is great! Dont get me wrong there both awesome, but plasmo does some work that the gods would be jealous of!
Rick Moreno - Plasmo is good. I like his planes more than his tanks. Nightshift gives good tank
This Cursader is looking like it wants to take Jerusalem.
I like your username + profile picture
@@pelleschwarzberg8848 thanks lol. I think it's pretty recognizable too. I have been found all over the place.
Deus vult?
@@jordyncollier919 I have seen you somewhere before!
@@theporschetiger I'm everywhere. I'm everything. I'm always watching.
Hello, I’m a history major, and I love building models. Also, I want you to know, the hastily applied field camos had super soft edges too. Exactly lines stick out in nature because they’re not usually there. It’s why snipers hide their barrels. You do a great job!
I love how you're trying different things with these smaller scale models (smaller than 1/35, that is). It's great to see how you do things out of the norm!
It's so much more enjoyable than using the same methods over and over again. Even if the results aren't 100% perfect, the fun factor is usually through the roof!
Make a full on desert diorama for it using previous techniques like impact shells
What do shell impacts have to do with dioramas? 😁
I was thinking maybe the tank just came out of a fight and was damaged.
Mohid H to be fair that would look really sick
Id honestly love to see night shift take a crack at building and painting any 40k imperial guard tanks like a baneblade or Leman Russ MBT.
His painting techniques worked wonders for me on one of my old 3rd edition blood angels Baal Predator class MBT that's for sure but I'd love to see how he would go about adding details to IG tanks during assebly.
It is the BEEEEEEYYYYYYYYNNNNNNNBBBBBLLLLLLEEEEEEEEYYYYYYYYDDDDDD
@@guyb-s3410 xD
Soviet style rough as hell armour texture.
Never heard of the VMS product line. Thanks for the tip! I just ordered the Metal Prep 4K.
Martine, hezká práce - a velmi zajímavá kamulfáž. Jestli mohu dvě doporučení, která by mohla být nápomocná. Při takovýchto kamulfážích se občas vyplatí udělat hady z uhutacu/bluetacu (guma na věšení plakátů) a ty pak použít jako masky na měkký přechod mezi barvami. Druhá, jak to chápu tak předloha byla v aktivní službe v poušti, tak se domnívám, že pásy by měly mít spíše kovovou nežli rezavou barvu, protože byly "leštěny" pískem. Díky moc za tvá videa a návody a hodně štěstí!
Thank God for the British and their whacky colors!
The original kit from Italeri in 1/35 is now sold by Tamiya/Italeri and the tracks and suspension work on that. Now I understand that there is a controversy (huh?) over tracks and suspension that works, I love it when those options are available.
I just got one of these kits for my 30th birthday. I plan to use it as my first excursion into scratch building parts as, rather than making a Crusader, I plan to convert the kit into a Covenanter Tank. It's a hated tank among most Tank fan communities, but I am a lover of the hated so I'm going to enjoy the process no matter the outcome. Without your videos and advice on building event the simplest of parts, I know this would be a lot more difficult for me. Every time I want to add something new I scour your videos to find ways of trying new things and I'll always be thankful for your channel rekindling my love of model tanks.
I like the soft camo edges because I think it is more realistic as to how the real tanks looked in the field. Think about it: field applied camo was done with an air sprayer alone, there wasn't a bunch of masking tape and paper to make sharp edges, and there wasn't a lot of time to do the camo. Lots of maintenance items were higher priority as they would keep things repaired and running. There wasn't a spray painting booth either, this field applied camo was done outside where the breeze would blow the paint around and dust and dirt were both on the surface and blown onto the wet surface. Which probably explains why the paint wasn't very durable and chipped and wore away pretty quickly. Anyway, I like the soft edges on the camo because I think it looks realistic.
Absolutely true! Me not being 100% happy with the result had to do mostly with my poor mastery of the craft, luckily, as you pointed out, armor models can be very forgiving. Still, I'd rather make a camouflage look sloppy on purpose than on accident 😆
@@NightShiftScaleModels The people in the field painting the camouflage were mechanics who were handed a spray gun and some paint and told what the general scheme was to look like. They weren't experts at painting either. Stop worrying and have fun!
don't really givea shit about modeling but you present it so profesionally that it's hella enjoyable to watch this
I mean officially you are a professional, since making models is your livelihood now
Yup!, Being a professional has nothing to do with how good you are at something, It just needs to be your profession/Main income.
Even though the tried an tested methods give solid results, It's great that you present different techniques. Keeps the channel fresh! ( and helps us noobs alot!)
Trying new stuff is probably more fun than using and perfecting the same methods all over again!
It just hit, me that I saw quite a few Hungarian products and words (for example in the Tiger F13 video) and it filled me with so much serotonin and now I'm binging your videos since I found your channel a moth or two ago. Anyway, you're an awesome guy and I won't be getting much sleep the following days. :D
At 4.40 I am glad to see the unique Maltese camo version which mimics our rubble walls and yellowish lime stone. Its not often you see Malta mentioned haha. Thanks Uncle Night Shift with love from the tiny island of Malta. Love your videos. got me into modelling again and trying to implement your teachings in my models.
I really like what you've done here so far Martin. Once you add all the weathering most of what you think isn't up to snuff will blend right in. People get too wound up about historical colours as they would *NEVER* look that way in the field! I wish the accuracy hounds would sit back and actually think logically about this. As long as you're close to the colour that's really all you need to do unless of course, you/re depicting a factory fresh paint job... but how boring is that!
Me: started reading a book on the Brits in North Africa and the Middle East during WWII
You: Starts building desert Crusader
Me: Goes to hobby shop buys a new model:)
Which book?
I crave sources about the north african campaign, my favourite theatre.
@@ArtoriusRex its mostly about the middle eastern campaign, but its called Blood Oil and the Axis.
@@ArtoriusRex Check out the TIK History video(s) on Operation Crusader, they are very interesting and visualize it quite well (If you haven't already)
@@ETMargraf thx :)
@@rastapasta6447 but of course i did m8, we need more channels like TIK on yt
0:30 are you sure about that?! Looks great btw.
You are the best modeller I’ve ever seen
Nice to see some North African tanks getting some love
MARTIN!!!!! Really interesting cammo, my dude
Perfect timing I got stuck while painting my 1/35 scale Crusader. Thanks Night Shift
Looks pretty good to me Martin. If you're looking for more sharper edges on your camo? This paint scheme is prime for using liquid masking. However if you're looking for historical accuracy... Field applied camo tends to have softer edges... Either way, it's your model. Do what makes you feel good. Cheers bro
true humility from the man
Looks great!
Lovely work on the cloud camo scheme. Nice to see you pushing your own boundaries
Love it Martin! Can't wait for next Friday
Excellent work on this one. Your airbrush skills are improving for sure.... (well they were already great) ....a project like this is perfect practice for that. I also have to keep reminding myself that this isn't 1/35 scale.
Thanks bro. Well it's slightly smaller than 1/35 which (unpopular opinion) makes it the perfect size!
Enjoyable as ever, joining you on your mystery trips making the impossible, possible.
Looks great. I have problems with airbrushing too, so I share your enthusiasm to improve my skills. And don’t worry about the very light dark color, it is a desert tank and maybe went trough a sandstorm or is just bleached out by the sun. A great weekend to you too, I have to do tons of homework 🙁. Just a quick sniff on the SP cement and it will work just fine 🤪.
hey shift, good tip if u blow on low pressure. clear the nozzle ofthen with a higher pressure blast. meaning turning on the psi burst blow it. u can use like small collor batches in the cup and work it away asap the ammount, then clear blow it with some cleaner and put back in some of the same batch where u where blowing with going low psi, the truck is, keeping the nozzle open, because that causes the sputtering
Uncle Nightshift, your videos are amazing. I look forward to them all week. Do you recommend buying pretty made extras such as stowage or 3D printing them?
Uncle Night Shift. I ALWAYS frre hand my cammo. One technique I tried last year on NATO Leclerc, was to mark out the different colored splotches with a brush in that splotch color, so I had my boundaries clearly marked. Then I filled them in with the airbrush. This gave the edges of the splotches a harder look. Next time I will try putty.
Uncle Night Shift,thank you,i had to put away food downstairs and i was watching Japanese Urban Legends,seeing you uplod a video saved my life XD
dude you should do a battleship! that would look sooo cool! love the vids!
your airbrush work is beautiful!
That tank is looking great. Guess I will have to wait to see the finished product.
It's nice to see you work with an airbrush and make mistakes because I am currently struggling with my first soft-edge camo pattern on a Tamiya Czech T-55A.
Great! I’ve followed this channel for a long time, love it. And thank you for the battle damage tutorials as well, that was my favourite.
Awesome choice of subject for this one, I’m hanging on to the edge of my seat for the rest!
Don’t beat yourself up about soft paint edges the tankers likely didn’t make a sharp edge either, if anything the soft edges add to the realism. Love your videos!
You’re instructional videos are amazing and entertaining. I’m definitely going to become a member.
Thank you , Uncle Martin
Nice job! You know; I have been thinning Tamiya paints with alcohol for at least 25 years. But, I have NOT been able to source any for at least 6 months. So, I think I am going to have to start using their lacquer thinner like you did. If you want a semi-soft edge on camouflage; use a rope of modeling clay. But, even without it; that is a nice camouflage job. See you next week.
Lovely work mate!
Another great video Martin! I really enjoy the Tamiya 1/48 armour builds, they are quick to get going so you don't lose momentum. A question - what type of microphone setup are you using for your lovely voiceover - nice and clear? Cheers, Chris
This is a great model
I think it turned out great. I'm not really sure about the lighter tone of "black" for the camo but as long as you're happy with it, then it is fine. I remember cleaning some areas that I've overspray with a little bit of thinner and a soft brush... and apparently worked fine but your base color must be very strong and super dry so it doesn't get damaged by thinners.
Looks great friend! I've ordered my first 1/35 tamiya model to try this art myself. Wish me look on my T-34!
Good luck!
Aw man, a new video from Uncle Night Shift? This is gonna be a good day
Will you make another revell video in the future????
Cool camo scheme! reminds me of the Mickey Mouse camo scheme I did on my m-10 Achilles(my profile picture)
Also thank you for the extra details on airbrushing it really helps me out
Ethan Nelson nice Achilles
Thanks!
Mickey Mouse camo is so cool, I did it on my 3 inch Gun Carrier which I finished about 3 or 4 years ago, and I'd love to do it again on this channel, maybe on the new Tamiya Archer?
Night Shift can you post a picture or something I really like the 3 inch gun carrier
@@ramiabouchakra2726 I posted some pics of it on my instagram last year (link in description), back when I was still posting there...
Another great video my friend !! 👍👍👍👍👍
Can you do a 1/16 Trumpeter model next?
Muh friendssss.....it's uncle Nightshift
Hey night shift, I have an idea for a model and a diorama. I was thinking you make a tank that has a lot of pieces of a wall or big debris on it. And the diorama is the outside of a building with the tank coming through it
hello, I really liked it) I also reviewed the video with the tiger from April 1945 and wanted to ask, were the skating rinks late or early ?, just a lot of controversy on the Internet😅
I'm curious, I want to get into models, they look like a lot of fun, and couple that with hard work to make something come together, and it looks so rewarding. Where and what is a good place to start? Any paints I should look at as a beginner, brands specific? What should I avoid in terms of products? Whats a solid starter air brush to buy? Any info is much appreciated.
Tamiya are a good balance of detail and very good fit, any of their kits from the last 20 years are pretty solid, use scalemates.com to look the kit up and see how old the moulds are. Iwata Neo double action is a pretty cost effective brush and will do a lot of what youre going to ask of an airbrush, going to need a compressor to run it, get one with a tank and a regulator, or add an inline reg to dial in your pressure, alternativly you can get away with a couple cans of tamiya spray paint and just light layers.. Tamiya acrylic is good paint, much better when thinned with either their lacquer thinner (orange or yellow cap) or Gunze Mr.leveling thinner, its tough to brush paint though, Vallejo is good for brushing, I havent tried others such as AK acrylics for this. WHat are you looking to build, aircraft? armour? sci-fi? Aircraft and armour id say Tamiya is a great bang for the buck, the late 90's tamiya 1/48 Spitfires, mustangs, and FW-190 are great fitting and pretty simple kits, picking up an eduard canopy mask makes spraying these much easier. Armour, starting with a solid tamiya kit will probably be more enjoyable than diving into a huge dragon or takom kit with a thousand individual track links and multi piece hull, look at the newer Tamiya panther D, M4a3e8 sherman or the french and russian tanks theyve released recently. Sci-fi Bandai has an awesome line of starwars kits that are super fun. Worth picking up a bottle of tamiya extra thin cement and a pair of micro-set and micro-sol decal solutions to help set and melt your decals into all the panel lines and rivets. Hope this helps a bit, its a greta hobby that you can constantly learn new ideas with!
thought id aslo reccomend a couple other channels that go well with Night shift here, Will Pattison and Doogs models, check em out
What kind of vehicles do you like? Cars? Tanks? Airplanes? Helicopters? Star Wars? Gundam? Other anime?
Airfix and Revell makes starter sets that comes with paint, glue and brush included. You don't specifically need an airbrush to make good models, you can make them look good with a brush and spraycans just like Matt (Model Minutes) does. "What should I avoid in terms of products?" Mistercraft kits, their decals are horrible (they dissolve in the water) and the parts don't usually fit.
For airbrush, if you can afford it, an Iwata should be perfect. The Eclipse seems nice.
I bought a not so cheap Badger 150 20 years ago, sure it works, but wasn't good for details. Then I added an Iwata HP-B+ and the difference is impressive ( a lot more than the price difference).
Lovely progress 👌
Watching the post shading I couldn't shake out of my head that maybe distressing can be still used with it for more interest, maybe start with a very noticeable distressing, with colours quite different from each other so then post shading can come in and tone it down...
Just an idea :D
Are you reading my mind? 😆
@@NightShiftScaleModels im a haker :D
@@NightShiftScaleModels Hey, do you remember when you made the exhausts on the Chi-ri? maybe first priming with a clear gray, then chipping fluid and then a much darker gray could do the distressing and afterwards add the colours along the post shading phase
ah, finally! I was waiting for your upload all day
Seriously cool effects 😎
I've seen aircraft modelers use green stuff or poster gum to mask wavy camo, it might help to make the camo edges sharper.
Very nice done. Looks very... sandy? :D Great result! ;)
The Black on the camo was slate grey so lucky you used a grey lol I'm doing a modulation of pre shading then the light stone dusted and then the darker middlestone like you done with your tamya dark grime it's kinda similar shade! Now away to lighten it with the first light stone lightened! It's like speaking in riddles when it comes to modelling lol
Night Shift, I would really like to see you tackle the Ace model kit for the FV-4005.
Looks good.
"with my limited experience" hahahahahahaha. Not likely. Love your work man, enjoyable as always.
For the Two+ tone camo, try using "Masking Putty" it does a wonderfull sharp edge mask without any mess or glue.
I SIMP for Night Shift.
Night Shift: "I'm not the best at airbrushing. I'm actually pretty bad at it."
Also Night Shift: * being the best at airbrushing models *
Beautiful job on the camouflage ;)
i love this pattern!
Nice work Uncle NS.
Border models is bringing out the mk3 crusader in 1.35 scale this year cant wait! That's the same way i work myself post shading after the pre shading too just to give it more worn fading control is much better I agree, one thing I hate with vallejos sand, stones and khakis the pigments don't seem to break down and clog like grit in the tip of the airbrush! Even if thinned to water as a mistake it still clogged like sand in a hose! Yuk haha! I'll have to get some tamyia to try life colour are not as bad but still get a bit! Ah i see your having problems with the stone paints too there! It's the pigments they don't break down! Same in all the sands and caunter scheme colours its not you! Sometimes you just have to crack out the white tac and use it for your mask!
Night Shift Jones and the Last Crusade(r) 🤠
what are your thoughts of putting a dark layer down first on the white primer? Covering all of the panel breaks and crevasses. Then putting your base coat down. Seems like that might be easier and give the desired effect.
Yay another video
The camo looks great to me 👌
Nightshift, where did you get that book?
I dont build tanks and paint them like you do ive only built a cromwell before but i still like your channel
Great video, thanks.
Agree
Hey, Night Shift! This is rather unrelated to the video, but do you mind telling me what superglue debonder you are using? I've tried several now and none of them have worked so far.
Also great videos, keep it up!
debonder is from Dousek (it has the orange label)
@@matteoreich7539 Thanks man!
Practice makes perfect, NightShift! Maybe to practice you can make vids of you shading older models?
I would be grateful for advice. I have a 1:87 scale plastic model of a steam locomotive and I would like to close a cabin window. At the end it shouldn't be noticed that the window was closed but it should look like it never was. I was thinking of dissolving a few pieces of plastic from the locomotive (it's all in one color) in Tamiya's cement to get a putty of the same color as the cabin. Could you tell me some other method or help me. I hope I was clear.
You'll need a sheet of styrene to close it off, such as one from Evergreen or Plastruct. Trace the shape of the window on the sheet, cut it out, glue in place, fill, sand, fill, sand, repeat until it looks like it was never there!
@@NightShiftScaleModels Thanks.
You should try a Zenthal prime next time! Prime the whole model in black, then the lighter parts in grey, then the highest/lightest points in white, it'll achieve some really nice an easy Shadow!
I actually used the zenithal light method almost a year ago on a 1/100 scale IS-2, it's a very fast and efficient technique.
Night Shift: it looks good far away but if you look closer it looks bad
Me with my 7 year cheap potato airbrush and bunch of cheap paints: 👁👄👁
Hoping that future AK Real Color Guides are going to be printed with a simulated light stone blob on page 163 and referred to as "the Night Shift edition"
You're using Tamiya acrylics with lacquer thinner? I thought with acrylics you would use water or windshield washer?
Could you make a model in the Caunter camouflage used up to 1942? It's very colorful and visually interesting.
Friday...i allways wait this day for a new video from you
Dear uncle Night shift you could go over the soft black edges made with the air brush with a paint brush to give it a bolder transition, would give the camo a more in scale look and even go over it later with black oil paint so you could control how sharp you want the transition to be to match how the troops did it in the field 💯
*Ok, ok, a WW2 desert camouflage by NS ... hum very good! You don't have many experience with an airbrush, are you sure of this? I don't think so! 😀😁😋 AMAZING! 👏👏👏*
It's nice work as usual. No longer, it doesn't looks like 1/48 scale.
Please make an F-14 in any scale! I want to see how you will do the weathering on it! That plane is a good opportunity for practice weathering, and shading techniques.
How is the Fidlock water bottle? I know Seth likes it, but that is the only review I've ever seen.
Loving these 1/48 models... throw us a bone, Martin... how about a tank buster plane in 1/48? Just once... 😉😸
You should build a desert command post.