2010 chevy impala, It doesn't have the clicking noise but the driver side vents are not blowing cold/ responding to temp controls like the passenger side. Replaced driver side actuator hoping to fix the issue. Still having the same issue. Any ideas? Any help is most appreciated!
I appreciate the honesty about the time it took for the drivers side one. I was throwing tools and cussing by the time I got it out. So thank you for posting this.
The actuator on the driver side can be more easily removed after removing the wiring harness clips that are in the way, and then using your socket with a universal joint and about a 12 inch extension to get to the two screws that hold it in place. That way you can work on it without being cramped up under the dash.
Thanks for filming this, and for your honesty there at the very end. The only thing that I can think of that would be worse than actually replacing this actuator, is filming oneself while replacing this actuator. Holy crap. I should have started a weight reduction program 10 months ago and had both of my arms shortened before tackling this job. I'm 90 minutes in, with a 7 minute recovery break frequency for oxygen and cramping. Step wise: 1) Remove the four screws and handful of plastic clips to remove the shrouds. Enjoy a moment of pride for having gotten them out without ruining them. 2) After those initial four minutes, don't get overly confident with your "progress," you haven't seen anything yet. 3) Take care not to rip the computer input jack out when you try to "get that last shroud out of the way." 4) begin planning to patent a whole new "clip" technology, one that will facilitate one-handed removal of wiring harness clips, because apparently GM doesn't have a good one. 5) Try kneeling outside the driver's door, beside the seat. While you're there on your knees, pray. 6) Seek therapy when you lose all hope of getting this done while on your knees, reaching up under the dash. 7) Here's where it gets fun. Of course, the steering wheel should be all the way up. Send the drivers seat all the way back and recline it all the way. Move the passengers seat all the way back, and enter the cabin from that side. Imagine yourself in the International Space Station, but with gravity. Rest the full weight of your torso on the left side of your rib cage, right on the console. Now scooch farther, and begin despair of ever getting both arms down there. While your face is within 16 inches of the target zone, shine your flashlight up...in...over...past...towards the offending actuator. Just look at it, then start worming your way back out because that angle of entry won't work unless you have three elbows on each arm. 23) Push the passengers seat all the way forward and set it to reclined fully forward. 24) Go around the car, and seat yourself normally in the drivers seat. Take advantage of how easy is to breath in this position. 25) Begin rotating your body clockwise, using your feet to incrementally fully reverse your position on the seat, so that your back is where your butt started and your feet are straddling the headrest. You'll begin to notice strange sensations in the back of your neck, your stomach, adams apple, and hamstrings. Get used to them. 26) Forgot to mention, get a flashlight that you can grip in your teeth, and put it there for safe keeping. 27) Give up being able to use two hands for this operation. If you're a southpaw, you're in luck. If you're not, go back for more therapy. 28) Wrap your right arm through the front of the steering wheel. This will provide the third pivot point, to go along with your calves. 29) Hopefully you're already holding the ratchet with the correct size socket and a 3" extension. If not, reverse this process, if you can still count backwards from 29 even though 73% of the blood in your body will be in your head right about now. 30) Position your head to aim the flashlight in the general direction of the actuator. 31) Scream at manufacturing engineers everywhere as you attempt to remove wiring harness clips by simultaneously pushing and pulling, with one hand, on the various harnesses that are in the way. 32) If you've made it this far, you may as well go for it. Get your ratchet up there, and using the sensation of "touch" only, attempt to get the socket onto the head of the first screw. 33) If you succeed at getting the ratchet onto the head of the screw, begin to back it out, incrementally, rotating the ratchet by exactly one click with each rotation. 34) If you get the first screw out, try the second. 35) If you get the second screw out, and you haven't passed out yet...remember those ideas for one-handed clips? Go ahead and get a 3D printer and start working on it. Because your next task is to remove a clip from the top of the actuator that is now dangling 1" from where it was originally screwed onto the car. And you still gotta figure out how to get another something (a screwdriver, nail clippers, penny, eyeglasses screwdriver?)...up under there to get the clip off. 36) Get out of the car. You figure that part out yourself--I can't solve everything for you. 37) Go type something utterly ridiculous on a helpful video on UA-cam, while replenishing your fluids and hoping the cramps go away. 38) Post your car on Marketplace, and start looking for homes in Texas where you don't need heat by your feet during Winter months.
Dude. That tutorial had me in stitches! I have seen many videos showing it can be done but your podium type quest speaker surmin actually helped me invision how I can get it done or at least try. Well done!
Yours was the first video I found that clearly showed the locations of the two behind the glove box. I'd found the L/H one and verified that it wasn't the culprit but didn't know where exactly the second one was until I saw this video. The offending part is now out and awaiting a replacement part come Monday. Kudos and thanks for the vid!!!!
My 2008 just started clicking and I'm pretty sure it is the bastard one. Going to practice my swear words before starting job. Will probably come up with some new ones by the looks of things. It just started clicking within a week of having $1100.00 in repairs done. Lucky me! Thanks for the video!!
2010 chevy impala, It doesn't have the clicking noise but the driver side vents are not blowing cold/ responding to temp controls like the passenger side. Replaced driver side actuator hoping to fix the issue. Still having the same issue. Any ideas? Any help is most appreciated!
For the driver's side, You can save a lot of difficulty with about a 12 inches long 1/4" extension and a universal joint, also some "sticky stuff" to hold the screws from falling out of the socket during removal and reinsertion. Can use 5.5mm or 7/32 English. Lastly can often reuse the old failed part, just one tooth is gone on a gear, rotate the gear 180 degrees and uses a section of the gear that's unused. It's easy to open it up just need maybe 5 or 6 toothpicks to slide into the locking parts around the perimeter of it then the 2 at the connector. It's actually very easy to open and "repair" them. Also other videos here on UA-cam, how to easily in 5 minutes repair, the common failure point in these units, without buying any parts, it's just so simple, saving a lot of money too. Search here for free repair of Chevy actuators.
Agree. The bit holder works on the forward lower one on drivers side. The one I had didn’t work for the rear upper one but the small ratchet worked. Took me 2 hours start to finish.
Dad and family friends told me to buy multiple short medium and long extensions in 1/4 half and 3/4 drive I lack a lot of formal training but I’ve saved the day with just a basic set and some extensions
Nope . Mine's way up in the dash I do not want to have to try to repair this myself so I just leave the temperature up and the cooking goes away after a minute problem solved and a bottle of headache aspirin will work
I don't have any clicking and i replaced passenger side actuator and the mode actuator but i just have cold air and no heat? My heater core hoses are both hot when running at temperature . My coolant is full. My thermostat is new water pump new. No cracked heads i just don't understand what the problem is maybe you have some idea what it might be
My driver's side blending actuator has been failing for a while. I've been putting it off because it will mess up my back, well everything. They didn't make it easy. When you reconnect the battery the computer will run through the calibration.
Screw that disasterous buried location of the 3rd driver's side unit. It took me 2 hours just to disconnect it. A nightmare in itself, you have to be a contortionist just to do that. I decided to call it "good" to just disconnect it and live with whatever minor consequence that provides. I bet the dealership wants close to $1000 to replace the driver's side unit. The 2 in the glovebox are a "piece of cake" in comparison. I've already done both of those once recently. It seems they all fail within a year or some months of each other.
I finally gave in, it took 4 hours to complete the job on the replacement on the driver's side. Need a very long extension and universal joint and stick'm to hold the screw from falling out of the socket.
I gave up after getting the two screws out, but failing to get the clip off. I just grabbed the white knob that turns the flap inside the vent and rotated it until I got warm air. In the spring I’ll get back under there and rotate it back again.
@@JonStratford1234 if someone has been manually turning the white knob, will that cause it to break? I have to replace the passenger side now because I'm still getting cold air on that side, but was wondering if tampering would effect that?
Ya , I replaced three on the passenger Side one is hidden behind the black plastic it's next to the mode actuator left side glove box , I'm having a ridiculous time trying to get the plastic to go back in place so the glove box door shuts 🤬
gud vid, wish you knew or said which ones which - alotta dumnS ok this topic - for example some say the temperature related 1’s on passenger side, but others say 1 bad one can affect the other anyway, & so on etc., alotta hupla 👋😑
Hate these stupid fucking things, I replaced them at one point before a hot summer awhile ago. Lasted like 2 months before and when it got rather toasty out, that's when it failed on me again. Driver side ofc and as you mentioned it's pretty much painful to get in and do the shit. Everything else on the car's been fine other than replacing brake rotors and the like. You know, things you expect to fail over time. Bullshit that such a simple part is so problematic on top of the pain of getting to it. Overall the 2011 Impala I've had for a good number of years has been perfectly fine aside from these asinine actuators. Honestly about to make and 3d print some shit to just make them manual as fed up with it as I am. Done with dying in the heat or not having defrost in the winter.
Hey guys! If this video helped you out at all, a quick subscribe would mean the world to me. Have an amazing day.
2010 chevy impala, It doesn't have the clicking noise but the driver side vents are not blowing cold/ responding to temp controls like the passenger side. Replaced driver side actuator hoping to fix the issue. Still having the same issue. Any ideas? Any help is most appreciated!
I appreciate the honesty about the time it took for the drivers side one. I was throwing tools and cussing by the time I got it out. So thank you for posting this.
The actuator on the driver side can be more easily removed after removing the wiring harness clips that are in the way, and then using your socket with a universal joint and about a 12 inch extension to get to the two screws that hold it in place. That way you can work on it without being cramped up under the dash.
Thanks for filming this, and for your honesty there at the very end. The only thing that I can think of that would be worse than actually replacing this actuator, is filming oneself while replacing this actuator. Holy crap. I should have started a weight reduction program 10 months ago and had both of my arms shortened before tackling this job. I'm 90 minutes in, with a 7 minute recovery break frequency for oxygen and cramping. Step wise: 1) Remove the four screws and handful of plastic clips to remove the shrouds. Enjoy a moment of pride for having gotten them out without ruining them. 2) After those initial four minutes, don't get overly confident with your "progress," you haven't seen anything yet. 3) Take care not to rip the computer input jack out when you try to "get that last shroud out of the way." 4) begin planning to patent a whole new "clip" technology, one that will facilitate one-handed removal of wiring harness clips, because apparently GM doesn't have a good one. 5) Try kneeling outside the driver's door, beside the seat. While you're there on your knees, pray. 6) Seek therapy when you lose all hope of getting this done while on your knees, reaching up under the dash. 7) Here's where it gets fun. Of course, the steering wheel should be all the way up. Send the drivers seat all the way back and recline it all the way. Move the passengers seat all the way back, and enter the cabin from that side. Imagine yourself in the International Space Station, but with gravity. Rest the full weight of your torso on the left side of your rib cage, right on the console. Now scooch farther, and begin despair of ever getting both arms down there. While your face is within 16 inches of the target zone, shine your flashlight up...in...over...past...towards the offending actuator. Just look at it, then start worming your way back out because that angle of entry won't work unless you have three elbows on each arm. 23) Push the passengers seat all the way forward and set it to reclined fully forward. 24) Go around the car, and seat yourself normally in the drivers seat. Take advantage of how easy is to breath in this position. 25) Begin rotating your body clockwise, using your feet to incrementally fully reverse your position on the seat, so that your back is where your butt started and your feet are straddling the headrest. You'll begin to notice strange sensations in the back of your neck, your stomach, adams apple, and hamstrings. Get used to them. 26) Forgot to mention, get a flashlight that you can grip in your teeth, and put it there for safe keeping. 27) Give up being able to use two hands for this operation. If you're a southpaw, you're in luck. If you're not, go back for more therapy. 28) Wrap your right arm through the front of the steering wheel. This will provide the third pivot point, to go along with your calves. 29) Hopefully you're already holding the ratchet with the correct size socket and a 3" extension. If not, reverse this process, if you can still count backwards from 29 even though 73% of the blood in your body will be in your head right about now. 30) Position your head to aim the flashlight in the general direction of the actuator. 31) Scream at manufacturing engineers everywhere as you attempt to remove wiring harness clips by simultaneously pushing and pulling, with one hand, on the various harnesses that are in the way. 32) If you've made it this far, you may as well go for it. Get your ratchet up there, and using the sensation of "touch" only, attempt to get the socket onto the head of the first screw. 33) If you succeed at getting the ratchet onto the head of the screw, begin to back it out, incrementally, rotating the ratchet by exactly one click with each rotation. 34) If you get the first screw out, try the second. 35) If you get the second screw out, and you haven't passed out yet...remember those ideas for one-handed clips? Go ahead and get a 3D printer and start working on it. Because your next task is to remove a clip from the top of the actuator that is now dangling 1" from where it was originally screwed onto the car. And you still gotta figure out how to get another something (a screwdriver, nail clippers, penny, eyeglasses screwdriver?)...up under there to get the clip off. 36) Get out of the car. You figure that part out yourself--I can't solve everything for you. 37) Go type something utterly ridiculous on a helpful video on UA-cam, while replenishing your fluids and hoping the cramps go away. 38) Post your car on Marketplace, and start looking for homes in Texas where you don't need heat by your feet during Winter months.
Wow now that's a diatribe against this drivers side actuator replacement.
It's all true too, I'm never replacing that thing again lol
Legend
Dude. That tutorial had me in stitches! I have seen many videos showing it can be done but your podium type quest speaker surmin actually helped me invision how I can get it done or at least try. Well done!
@@danthefisherman4793 please report back lol! I took mine to a mechanic! Best $200 I ever spent.
Yours was the first video I found that clearly showed the locations of the two behind the glove box. I'd found the L/H one and verified that it wasn't the culprit but didn't know where exactly the second one was until I saw this video. The offending part is now out and awaiting a replacement part come Monday.
Kudos and thanks for the vid!!!!
My 2008 just started clicking and I'm pretty sure it is the bastard one. Going to practice my swear words before starting job. Will probably come up with some new ones by the looks of things. It just started clicking within a week of having $1100.00 in repairs done. Lucky me! Thanks for the video!!
Your a Saint! Just been ignoring the noise now I want to fix it thanks to you. We all appreciate you making this video!!!
🚨🚨🚨Update🚨🚨🚨 Job completed!!!
@@tankdawg32 mine just started 4days ago, UA-cam'd my brakes and was successful now on to this..
@@raheembosley9689 super easy. It's in a tight spot so just be patient. I replaced mine with the AC Delco brand from AutoZone.
At this point I wish you all the best 😂😂❤️thanks for showing which positions they are in unfortunately I think it’s my driver side This time 😒
2010 chevy impala, It doesn't have the clicking noise but the driver side vents are not blowing cold/ responding to temp controls like the passenger side. Replaced driver side actuator hoping to fix the issue. Still having the same issue. Any ideas? Any help is most appreciated!
For the driver's side, You can save a lot of difficulty with about a 12 inches long 1/4" extension and a universal joint, also some "sticky stuff" to hold the screws from falling out of the socket during removal and reinsertion. Can use 5.5mm or 7/32 English.
Lastly can often reuse the old failed part, just one tooth is gone on a gear, rotate the gear 180 degrees and uses a section of the gear that's unused.
It's easy to open it up just need maybe 5 or 6 toothpicks to slide into the locking parts around the perimeter of it then the 2 at the connector. It's actually very easy to open and "repair" them.
Also other videos here on UA-cam, how to easily in 5 minutes repair, the common failure point in these units, without buying any parts, it's just so simple, saving a lot of money too.
Search here for free repair of Chevy actuators.
THANK YOU!!!!!
Agree. The bit holder works on the forward lower one on drivers side. The one I had didn’t work for the rear upper one but the small ratchet worked. Took me 2 hours start to finish.
Dad and family friends told me to buy multiple short medium and long extensions in 1/4 half and 3/4 drive
I lack a lot of formal training but I’ve saved the day with just a basic set and some extensions
Nope . Mine's way up in the dash I do not want to have to try to repair this myself so I just leave the temperature up and the cooking goes away after a minute problem solved and a bottle of headache aspirin will work
Mission accomplished took about 45min!
To put new one back on I had to plug it in then push against the male post until the Actuator aligned again.
I don't have any clicking and i replaced passenger side actuator and the mode actuator but i just have cold air and no heat? My heater core hoses are both hot when running at temperature . My coolant is full. My thermostat is new water pump new. No cracked heads i just don't understand what the problem is maybe you have some idea what it might be
These 3 actuators, are they the same; same part number etc...?
What do you mean do your best to line it up? How do you line it up to begin with?
Are they all the same , or do you have to get one for left , right , and middle
My driver's side blending actuator has been failing for a while. I've been putting it off because it will mess up my back, well everything. They didn't make it easy. When you reconnect the battery the computer will run through the calibration.
Did you manage to fix the one under the steering wheel?
Easiest to access? My right side one is blocked by a wire, so impossible to get the wrench in there. I did it but jesus
Screw that disasterous buried location of the 3rd driver's side unit. It took me 2 hours just to disconnect it. A nightmare in itself, you have to be a contortionist just to do that. I decided to call it "good" to just disconnect it and live with whatever minor consequence that provides. I bet the dealership wants close to $1000 to replace the driver's side unit. The 2 in the glovebox are a "piece of cake" in comparison. I've already done both of those once recently. It seems they all fail within a year or some months of each other.
I finally gave in, it took 4 hours to complete the job on the replacement on the driver's side. Need a very long extension and universal joint and stick'm to hold the screw from falling out of the socket.
I gave up after getting the two screws out, but failing to get the clip off. I just grabbed the white knob that turns the flap inside the vent and rotated it until I got warm air. In the spring I’ll get back under there and rotate it back again.
@@JonStratford1234 due to vibration, it may not stay where you want it.
@@danblumel Shoot, hadn't thought of that. I'll know on Sunday--we have a nine hour drive ahead of us.
@@JonStratford1234 if someone has been manually turning the white knob, will that cause it to break? I have to replace the passenger side now because I'm still getting cold air on that side, but was wondering if tampering would effect that?
Can anyone tell me if all three Actuators are the same, or are there different once for each place.
So where do the doorman actuator go the 3rd one
Where could I buy an actuator at and are there different ones like left facing ones and right?
Why they can't just use normal screws to secure the actuators I don't know 😢
Do you know which one of the actuators controls which vent the air comes out of? When I turn on the windshield defrost it blows out out on the floor
there’s a fourth one not mentioned, you can just look up defrost and foot actuator chevy impala and it’s located in the glove box too
It's right next to the actuator in The glove boxer right next to each other the screws on at me be a real pain to get at@@videoloss4030
Replace the two on driver side and passenger and it just did a little click and switch to outside air
How do you get the damn clips out?
Gr8 Video.. I am going to give it a try . TYVM.
Is the 3 actuators the same?
Do you have dual climate or single I thought there was 4
Ya , I replaced three on the passenger
Side one is hidden behind the black plastic it's next to the mode actuator left side glove box , I'm having a ridiculous time trying to get the plastic to go back in place so the glove box door shuts 🤬
What's the HVAC air door actuator for?
I have a 2013 Ls and I don't have one on my driver side
gud vid, wish you knew or said which ones which - alotta dumnS ok this topic - for example some say the temperature related 1’s on passenger side, but others say 1 bad one can affect the other anyway, & so on etc., alotta hupla 👋😑
How would I get the to right-side one behind the glove this one is facing away from me so I can't just socket it
It was really tight but I found I could get the 1/4 inch ratchet and socket in there. You may need to use both hands as much as you can.
Doug J.
Do you need them
So is just 3 actuators? I thought it was 4 of them 🤔
There is 4 ,he skipped the mode door actuator that controls what vents air flows to
@fredperry3574 where is the 4th one...thats the one i need to replace
Mine doesn't click that fast
Hate these stupid fucking things, I replaced them at one point before a hot summer awhile ago. Lasted like 2 months before and when it got rather toasty out, that's when it failed on me again. Driver side ofc and as you mentioned it's pretty much painful to get in and do the shit. Everything else on the car's been fine other than replacing brake rotors and the like. You know, things you expect to fail over time. Bullshit that such a simple part is so problematic on top of the pain of getting to it. Overall the 2011 Impala I've had for a good number of years has been perfectly fine aside from these asinine actuators. Honestly about to make and 3d print some shit to just make them manual as fed up with it as I am. Done with dying in the heat or not having defrost in the winter.
Lt zed🤔
Dude..... invest in some metric sockets. None of these modern North American vehicles use SAE fasteners anymore.
BIG THANK YOU for this video! Highly appreciate you man! 😂🙏🏽💙 video was quick and easy to follow 💯 got yourself a new subscriber 🫡
I just unplugged it.