Mini Pinball 09: Infrared Ball Detection
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- Опубліковано 4 січ 2018
- Felix populates the board and makes bodges for the mistakes. Meanwhile Ben makes a laser paint of a new circuit for the inserts and the IR emitter detector. The PCB does two different things, it can either see the ball or can light something up.
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Ben and Felix resume work on the mini pinball machine. Felix populates the pinball boards that came in. If there are any mods they need to do he’ll go ahead and do that and then update the schematic if necessary. While he’s working on that Ben’s going to be doing some sensor work. Previously, they considered a target that gets hit and has a microswitch which might have a pop bumper with a little ring around it that conducts electricity. Now, Ben thinking it will be a rollover switch that’s infrared. When the ball rolls over the emitter detector it bounces IR light back down into the sensor and gives a signal back when the ball is detected. Small mechanical switches are expensive so they should use as few as possible. Ben’s got some new surface mount parts to do a test circuit on and will design a PCB around it. Once they have the switches done they can hook them up to Felix’s wired board and see if it gets the data properly.
The PCB design was laid out fairly quickly so there were some mistakes made. They'll need to put in some bodges onto the board. While Ben has been working on other projects, Felix has been slowly bodging the board into a working state. First thing Felix did was check the GPIO and the LED. He realized that the GPIO needed to have pull ups on them and a number of LEDs weren’t receiving power so he linked them over to the power connection. After testing the LCD, he discovered that it uses a different power supply voltage for the backlight. It takes between 6.2 to 6.8 volts and they forgot the potentiometer for the contrast. Without a contrast knob you won’t see anything on the display. Felix uses a variable power regulator to get the 6.5 volts to turn on the LCD. He noticed that the 5 volt linear regulator, used to knock down 12 volts to 5 volts, is getting pretty warm. When you have a linear regulator, any power difference is basically turned into heat, so if you have a lot of surface area on your board or a lot of copper for the heatsink, it’s not a big deal. A better way to do it is with a switching power supply which Felix put into the schematic. A switching power supply is more expensive and uses more parts, but it runs cooler and is more efficient.
The big changes are done to the power circuitry and some bodges for the screen, such as adding a switching regulator. Switching regulators turn on and off very rapidly to create lower voltages, making them more efficient as you’re not wasting voltage potential as heat. The audio amplifier has been tested and is working. Ben’s soldering the emitter to a board before he goes to design a board. He’s using all surface mount parts for this test. They should be able to see if the emitter is working using a cell phone. He’s using a Google Pixel which doesn’t have an IR Filter. Ben hooks up two different voltages to the test circuit, 3.3 volts on the phototransistor and 1.6 volts going into the emitter, and uses his multimeter to check the readings. The numbers he’s getting are within tolerance of a TTL high or low signal. If you turn the power up you get cross contamination between the emitter and the detector, if you turn it down the surface of the pinball is too random to reflect light back consistently. He adjusts the voltages accordingly until he gets a good result. Once he gets the result he’s looking for its time to hook it up to the oscilloscope. By putting it on an oscilloscope you can see where your peaks and valleys are. He checks the trigger time, if the event length is too short the switch scanning code might miss it. Their software scans the switches constantly using a timer interrupt. With the proper voltage and isolating lock between them, they get a pretty good result. They have close to zero volts when inactive and the three volts when active. Anything past 1.5 volts should trigger as a 1 on the microcontroller.
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yeah,, finally this series is back
Felix rules!!!
Excited to see how this project comes together.
i cant wait to be able to purchase this kit!!! hopefully sooner than later.
Very interesting. I’m enjoying seeing these projects go through the various stages of development towards becoming a finished product.
I’m planning on designing a circuit board at work, and it’s nice to see the mistakes you have made. The use of the laser paint to make a prototype for the ir/light board for example, I plan to make and test multiple iterations of my upcoming design using a circuit board prototyping mill before sending out for my board to be produced. It’s refreshing to see you use the same approach.
Really loved this one
I love this channel/show....even though most of the time I have no idea what Ben, Felix and Karen are talking about!
This is by far my favorite recent project, never finish it. WE LOVE PINBALL ALSO! LPKF ProConduct is a really good in house Via plating system. It's just a paste that you vacuum through the holes and then bake. Shoot me a message if you can't find anything about it. Also PCB 3D printer there is the Voltera, its... almost.
Ben, put the output of the detector on one side of a comparator and a pot on the other so you can just control when the comparator gives a strong 5v logic high.
If you only ever have a single ball on the board it seems a bit of a waste to 'scan' all sensors constantly instead of doing it interrupt driven.
combine the output of all sensors and apply it to an interrupt-pin, and that checks what part triggered the interrupt.
Cool episode, lots of interesting info in this one.
I am really looking forward to buy this kit and start affordable pinball developement at home. Have some great ideas for gamemodes and themes.
I had trouble with the IR pair in different lighting situations and ended up using a hall effect sensor
Maken it so, you can not use Hall sensors without inducing the ball with a magnetic field. To use a Hall sensor it needs a magnetic field to trigger on or measure the strength of that field.
You can use a capacitive sensor or better a inductive sensor. But those types of sensors are very expensive or hard to make your self.
Inductive sensors would be awesome but yeah, that cost. The hall effect sensor method does work though, i recently posted a video about it and it tests out fine. the small magnets i used didn't seem to alter the balls trajectory at all. Maybe a little hard to make for some folks i guess.
Take a pinball, heat it up above its curie point, introduce a high power selenoid, cool it back down. Magnetizing the ball would be very very simple and could be done in large batches.
Metroid1977 Love the name :)
I wonder if the IR emitter/detector will have reflection issues if the pinball machine has top glass/plastic.
I was curious of this myself too.
Felix is cool as fuck.
3:55 you can witness a moment that leads to "I wonder why they did that?" during teardowns :)
Why don't you use a TCRT5000 or CNY70 all in one IR sensors. Easy to use and I think not that much bigger than your design Ben. Place a smd comparator on the board for TTL high and low (if you choose the correct one it can handle 3.3v and 5v).
A PCB 3D printer... I would buy that.
The voltera? www.kickstarter.com/projects/voltera/voltera-your-circuit-board-prototyping-machine?ref=profile_backed
Ben knows about pinball reliability over time.
Having this kind of IR switches under a playfield, that will be stained by dust, rubber dust, and other contaminants.... No, sorry... I won't buy it.
Use hell sensors instead ! They are less expensive today than they were 20 years ago!
Now, overall, the project is cool, and, as a pinhead, I'm looking forward to see more.
Aren't there special printer-types that print circuits on whatever medium you put underneath them? I feel that this has been done with inkjet printers, as well as 3D printers.
Front Camera in iPhone 7 still work as IR camera back camera does't work so well, first I taught my remote is broken.
How to implement this and can this be line detection ball out?? Can you give any suggestions
Do some Analog synth stuff
You could just use a different lcd that needs 5V
Why is zero "on"?
Well, it would be easy to cheat. With somthing that generates IR-Light. For example a TV-remote (well maybe only if hold directly above the sensor, but still xD).
Thanks 😊 you
Lol star trek 6 quote
What? 😃 sony xperia x-reality display and 6-inches psp / Gba ?
Sony xperia x-reality Display 1080p and 6-inches game? 😁👍 ❤️
Sensing IR with the digital input pin directly? Yeeeeeah, about that.... Not gonna work. Especially outdoors, and will gleefully pick up TV remotes, incandescent bulbs, and stuff like that, unless that was dealt with. And with DI pin there's not much that can be done....
Self-tuning digital-out sensors exist (like TSOP1738, etc), but they are expensive...
Damn previews. Quit teasing me. Its not nice.
Your General Chang impersonation sucks lol
Damn, I’m still waiting on this project. You guys know how to make people wait. Suggestion: Ben’s next project should be a hairbrush/mirror combo. That mane is a mess.
You made the portable dreamcast and used the psone screen. Could you try making a portable ps1 or ps2 slim portable
Whoa! Came back from sabbatical with steampunk beards.
still curious why Karen doesn't get any screen time anymore. these larger projects are nice, but I think you need to try and keep them in order, bouncing around back and forth gets confusing at times. oh and GO FELIX :-P
I'm on screen less because I'm behind the camera more now. Glad you're liking the larger projects. Finding a good rhythm while working on three projects at once while still throwing in a few one-week builds ain't easy. Thanks for sticking with us!
Hey Ben Heck I think your video thumbnail design is not good
Thumbs up for random Magneto quote from XMen.
Take a Sony tv and a PlayStation 4 and integrate the console into the tv, this would be godlike.
9 months later and we're still on this? Ever since you switched to the blue and orange on white thumbnails and the looong drawn out project your views and quality has really dropped.
Yeah, its getting old...but I keep waiting for the "good" projects... rip.
Yeah i think the same
It's a very complex project... it will take time
It's way better than building unfinished, unusable shit because there was not time...
You are probably one of the people who wanted Ben to make the same handheld consoles over and over.
Which would make you a hypocrite.
Get on with it, nearly fell asleep.