I use the following C lenses on my RB67: 250mm f/4.5 for tight face shots 180mm f/4.5 for head & shoulder portraits 150mm f/4 SF for soft focus portraits 140mm f/4.5 macro for close-focus and macro photos 90mm f/3.8 for full-length portraits, ¾ length portraits, and general subjects 50mm f/4.5 for interior architecture, landscapes, and group portraits 100-200mm f/5.2 zoom as a backup lens Thanks to your video, I now know that the K/L lenses are not worth the upgrade.
I’m pleased that you took time to shoot this vid. I’ve heard that quality control of the production of the lenses is higher in the K/L lenses. It would be interesting to compare C and K/L lenses.
I've just read some other posts from different sites, main gist that I've read is that the C has more plastic elements compared to the K/L which makes it more susceptible to parts deteriorating.
XLNT video and about time to actually see the final photo from each lens version. I will also stay with the C lenses, as K/L lenses are $150-$300 higher cost. You proved enough to me, to be happy with the C lenses. Thank you!
Thanks for your effort and the interesting outcome regarding contrast. From my point of view the main reason for buying a K/L lens would be to get a larger image circle on the ProSD for Polaroid and the 6x8 back I guess.
Interesting! Would not have thought of that. Is that the case for all K/L lenses ?? Another option for instant (which I just happened to do, recently) is get a binstax for Instax square - smaller than Polaroid/6x8 so I see what you're saying. In that case, one could potentially save money if they have existing non-K/L lenses. But binstax is my only foray into instant on the RB thus far so I'll still be looking into this 😅
@@owensteven_ Since the RB is a 7x7 camera you get a larger image on instant than with a Bronica 6x7 and with a negative back. And I thought the larger diameter of K/L / proSD lenses could produce an even larger image on Instax Wide. I use Instax Wide single sheet in Polaroid backs on Bronica GS-1 and it looks nice but with the RB you get a bigger image with at least full height exposed.
Even so it is still a waste of precious Polaroid/FP-100 surface. The solution is to get the double exposure back from Arca Swiss. Makes two pictures on one sheet of instant packfilm.
Thanks for making this video, I was wondering this exact question. C lenses seem like the better value as far as image quality if you can get them in mint condition (no haze, fungus, seperation). Think I'll be snagging another C for my RB.
well done logical comparison. This is a good example of comparison. Only thing is people forget these lenses have shutter so they need maintenance & that differs.
Thanks for trying this out but youve missed a point, C lenses seem more prone to separation around the elements due to older adhesives used, and Ive never actually seen fungus or haze in newer KL lenses, im sure it happens but it seems to be less of a problem!
The KL lenses are newer with newer shutters. Also something that fails on RB lenses... shutters. So if reliability is a factor, that's something to consider.
I've heard different things from different people (online and in-person at camera repair stores) regarding which series are more reliable. I've heard some say that K/Ls are their preference to work on, and some say the opposite. I'm definitely not the expert once we get to that territory 🙃
I've heard that as well, and can tell you that's the reality with the newer lenses... I've been using RB's since 1989. Some can argue the optics are better on KL, I've found that they are actually. @@owensteven_
I am upgrading some to kl for this reason... also to SD backs because I am sick and tired of losing a roll of film and a shoot to light leaks. KL lenses, new backs, rick olson split prism viewing screen. I have been "hot rodding" my RB over 10 years. How much hot rodded? I have flame decals on the sides!
I have only ever had C lenses as they are the easiest to come across in my experience but I'm still kinda intrigued by KL. Several posts I've read say that Mamiya's quality control has improved with KL lenses whereas with older models there's a chance any example in particular might be a dud. It's the kind of hearsay that's hard to prove or disprove.
Agreed, totally hearsay. I did see some discussion in the forums I was wandering through claiming the repair techs weren't as fond of K/L's because the plastic was less durable and could cause repairs to be harder or more extensive than with prior versions. Makes sense in theory but we'd prob need to ask a tech to know for sure!
I have a RB67 180mm f/4.5 only it says SEKOR C on the front. Where is the K/L marking? I thought I was buying a 645 lens. I was impressed with the size when it got here. I use a Sony A7Rii. Are you in Berkeley CA?
This site I shared in the description has a lot of good info on the different models: rb67.helluin.org/lenses/ I can't say for every focal length, but for the 127mm's I tested with, the K/L doesn't even say "Sekor" anywhere on it. I believe all prior models (original, NB, C) will all say "Sekor" on the front like yours. The "K/L" marking on my 127mm is on the barrel near the front element (see video thumbnail).
I use kl mostly becous its posible to use the shutter relese cable to both open and close the shutter when i use bulb for more then one second exposure, with the other older lenses you cant. you can open but then to close you must turn the shutter on lens so you tuch the lens....
@owensteven_ I have run shutter speed checks on all my RB67 lenses/shutters. There are some slight variations between some shutters. What is marked as 1/125 sec may actually be 1/100 or maybe 1/150. This can produce variations in the resulting negative densities, so also affect the colour saturation from one neg to the next.
Hmmm yea maybe! I know it's hard to tell via the video (vs. me seeing my screen directly) but the only attestation I can give is that the exposures looked relatively bang-on equal for the two lenses. Since the exposures were similar but the contrast was notably different, I'm inclined to believe the shutter speeds were close enough across the lenses to uphold the "integrity" of my comparison. That said, that's a variable I didn't control for, so you very well might be right!
True, I didn't - that would definitely be a significant difference in terms of depth of field. I was mainly looking to compare lens character with all settings equal. The K/L is definitely the better choice if highest performance in lower light situations is a priority for the shooter!
I think that would look great. I like using lenses from the film era for video work but I've only used 35mm lenses. One day I'll mount some 67 lenses on my full frame digital 🤌🏻
I use the following C lenses on my RB67:
250mm f/4.5 for tight face shots
180mm f/4.5 for head & shoulder portraits
150mm f/4 SF for soft focus portraits
140mm f/4.5 macro for close-focus and macro photos
90mm f/3.8 for full-length portraits, ¾ length portraits, and general subjects
50mm f/4.5 for interior architecture, landscapes, and group portraits
100-200mm f/5.2 zoom as a backup lens
Thanks to your video, I now know that the K/L lenses are not worth the upgrade.
That's a great C lens kit ! Color me jealous.
You nailed exactly how I use my lenses. I don't have the 140, 50 or zoom. Use the 65 for environmental portraits.
Ive C and KL lenses, I just think the KL lenses are much nicer to hold and use
@@jukeboxjohnnie
Which K/L lenses do you use?
I’m pleased that you took time to shoot this vid. I’ve heard that quality control of the production of the lenses is higher in the K/L lenses.
It would be interesting to compare C and K/L lenses.
I've just read some other posts from different sites, main gist that I've read is that the C has more plastic elements compared to the K/L which makes it more susceptible to parts deteriorating.
I'm pleased you watched it !
XLNT video and about time to actually see the final photo from each lens version. I will also stay with the C lenses, as K/L lenses are $150-$300 higher cost. You proved enough to me, to be happy with the C lenses. Thank you!
🎉😎
Thanks for your effort and the interesting outcome regarding contrast. From my point of view the main reason for buying a K/L lens would be to get a larger image circle on the ProSD for Polaroid and the 6x8 back I guess.
Interesting! Would not have thought of that. Is that the case for all K/L lenses ??
Another option for instant (which I just happened to do, recently) is get a binstax for Instax square - smaller than Polaroid/6x8 so I see what you're saying. In that case, one could potentially save money if they have existing non-K/L lenses. But binstax is my only foray into instant on the RB thus far so I'll still be looking into this 😅
@@owensteven_ Since the RB is a 7x7 camera you get a larger image on instant than with a Bronica 6x7 and with a negative back. And I thought the larger diameter of K/L / proSD lenses could produce an even larger image on Instax Wide. I use Instax Wide single sheet in Polaroid backs on Bronica GS-1 and it looks nice but with the RB you get a bigger image with at least full height exposed.
Even so it is still a waste of precious Polaroid/FP-100 surface. The solution is to get the double exposure back from Arca Swiss. Makes two pictures on one sheet of instant packfilm.
Thanks for making this video, I was wondering this exact question. C lenses seem like the better value as far as image quality if you can get them in mint condition (no haze, fungus, seperation). Think I'll be snagging another C for my RB.
I'm glad this was helpful. I think a C vs. K/L is on the roadmap :)
well done logical comparison. This is a good example of comparison. Only thing is people forget these lenses have shutter so they need maintenance & that differs.
Thanks!
Thanks for trying this out but youve missed a point, C lenses seem more prone to separation around the elements due to older adhesives used, and Ive never actually seen fungus or haze in newer KL lenses, im sure it happens but it seems to be less of a problem!
very interesting !
The KL lenses are newer with newer shutters. Also something that fails on RB lenses... shutters. So if reliability is a factor, that's something to consider.
I've heard different things from different people (online and in-person at camera repair stores) regarding which series are more reliable. I've heard some say that K/Ls are their preference to work on, and some say the opposite. I'm definitely not the expert once we get to that territory 🙃
I've heard that as well, and can tell you that's the reality with the newer lenses... I've been using RB's since 1989. Some can argue the optics are better on KL, I've found that they are actually. @@owensteven_
I am upgrading some to kl for this reason... also to SD backs because I am sick and tired of losing a roll of film and a shoot to light leaks. KL lenses, new backs, rick olson split prism viewing screen. I have been "hot rodding" my RB over 10 years. How much hot rodded? I have flame decals on the sides!
I have only ever had C lenses as they are the easiest to come across in my experience but I'm still kinda intrigued by KL. Several posts I've read say that Mamiya's quality control has improved with KL lenses whereas with older models there's a chance any example in particular might be a dud. It's the kind of hearsay that's hard to prove or disprove.
Agreed, totally hearsay.
I did see some discussion in the forums I was wandering through claiming the repair techs weren't as fond of K/L's because the plastic was less durable and could cause repairs to be harder or more extensive than with prior versions. Makes sense in theory but we'd prob need to ask a tech to know for sure!
love the comparison, seems like ill be sticking with my C lenses👍🏻
🙏🏻♻️🆗
I have a RB67 180mm f/4.5 only it says SEKOR C on the front. Where is the K/L marking? I thought I was buying a 645 lens. I was impressed with the size when it got here. I use a Sony A7Rii.
Are you in Berkeley CA?
This site I shared in the description has a lot of good info on the different models: rb67.helluin.org/lenses/
I can't say for every focal length, but for the 127mm's I tested with, the K/L doesn't even say "Sekor" anywhere on it. I believe all prior models (original, NB, C) will all say "Sekor" on the front like yours. The "K/L" marking on my 127mm is on the barrel near the front element (see video thumbnail).
The RB67 lens is too much trouble. I think I will keep if for trading stock. I like the 645 lenses.
Another thing that I hear; the guys who still repair RB lenses prefer to work on the older ones. Some of them don't want even touch KL 's.
Weirdly enough I've heard the opposite, too! Less so the opposite - more so what you said
You wouldn't happened to have a recommendation for a person who could fix a lens? Please
I use kl mostly becous its posible to use the shutter relese cable to both open and close the shutter when i use bulb for more then one second exposure, with the other older lenses you cant.
you can open but then to close you must turn the shutter on lens so you tuch the lens....
Not something I've done! Seems like a valuable distinction, thanks for sharing.
I have also heard mirror up was easier to handle with KL so that whole thing seems to be a neat improvement on KL lenses.
Great video ! Very informative 👌🏻✨✨✨
Glad it was helpful, thanks for watching!
The slight variation in colour saturation could be caused by the difference in true shutter speeds?
I'm unsure the angle you're coming from, say more
@owensteven_ I have run shutter speed checks on all my RB67 lenses/shutters. There are some slight variations between some shutters. What is marked as 1/125 sec may actually be 1/100 or maybe 1/150. This can produce variations in the resulting negative densities, so also affect the colour saturation from one neg to the next.
Hmmm yea maybe! I know it's hard to tell via the video (vs. me seeing my screen directly) but the only attestation I can give is that the exposures looked relatively bang-on equal for the two lenses. Since the exposures were similar but the contrast was notably different, I'm inclined to believe the shutter speeds were close enough across the lenses to uphold the "integrity" of my comparison. That said, that's a variable I didn't control for, so you very well might be right!
@@raybeaumont7670how do you test your shutter speeds?
I believe you didn’t compare them wide open, did you? That should show the biggest difference between them
True, I didn't - that would definitely be a significant difference in terms of depth of field. I was mainly looking to compare lens character with all settings equal. The K/L is definitely the better choice if highest performance in lower light situations is a priority for the shooter!
I thinked to use k/l lens on Eos canon and Eos R.
I think that would look great. I like using lenses from the film era for video work but I've only used 35mm lenses. One day I'll mount some 67 lenses on my full frame digital 🤌🏻
@@owensteven_ Which is better? sharpmes and contrast...
Sharpness is mostly the same. Contrast is better on the K/L lenses.
Very helpful, thank you!
This video dedicated to Kiyo
"Worth it" also depends on the price you can get them.
yes for sure !!
good job
🙏
📸🤳🏻🪜