Really great job David! Straight and to the point. My brother has a Breedlove with this installed. Now I get it. Will try it on my 12 string with a sunken bridge. Acts as a sound post like a violin too. Nice loud and warm tone. Love this no-nonsense CG animation.
Cockney crafter Thanks for the informative video. The animation was simple and to the point. It’s answered a lot of my questions and given me the confidence to do the repair on my 1981 Yamaha fg 335 ii , which I got as a gift when I was 15 Not an expensive guitar used but it means a lot to me, and I played a friend’s mid 60’s Gibson Songbird, and at least in my mind, they sounded close. Or close enough to my ears.
Very well done instructional video on the installation of this device. I think the only difficulty is finding the best location of where the device block will mount on the bridge plate without hitting something else. Doing this by feel may work, but I plan to use a mirror to get a good visual assessment before I proceed.
One thing that should be mentioned. After installation and during tension rod adjustment and tightening, the guitar, at least in my case, started to pop and crack loudly as the top was being levelled. I believe this is normal, but it can be a little frightening if you're not prepared for this. BTW, results were excellent, Bravo Bridge Doctor !
Great video, very informative. I probably would have tried to tighten it down way to quickly, now I know to adjust it slowly over a months time. thank you!
For only £25 this is a great fix and if you can get your hands on a 'plug cutter', make your own inlay out of ebony or rosewood. I don't think everybody would want an odd looking inlay dot on the bridge...
I know I'm quite late to this party. I was looking for a fix for my beloved 12 string. Mr Cockney Crafter, this is THE BEST explanation of this "bolt on" repair. I've seen it done with real people fumbling through the process. Not exactly confidence inspiring. Your animated video is a stroke of genius. A BIG THANK YOU for taking the time to share with us.
Many thanks for the compliments. Let me know how you got on with the installation. If you are nervous, may I suggest: Measure twice, cut once. Drill holes slowly and always use a bradawl to ensure the drill will not slip. If you are having difficulties, leave the job and return the next day. Above all else, take your time.
@@stretch5889 Great advice. I just ordered it and it'll be here on Sunday. I'll take my time....got nothing but time these days. A 12 string requires the brass pins, so no drilling for me.
This is by far the best video by ANYONE for installation that I've seen. The company that makes the bridge doctor (JLD) doesn't even have something this good, (which is actually kind of shocking!!)
@@stretch5889 One question if you don't mind. In the tools list, the first drill bit you mention. I can't understand what type of drill bit your are calling it. I think the second word is "spur" but I can't make out the first word.. It's a minor point but I want to get it right! Thank you very much!
Used this tutorial tonight to install bridge doctor on acoustic with bulging belly. A couple of things... Ran into issue drilling hole in bridge ended up getting to close to bridge pins not a pretty sight but nothing some wood filler won't fix. Also the long dowel that slides through to the tailpiece of the guitar was a bitch to get through the hole I ended up fighting the bracing of the guitar I also modified the block itself to gain clearance and sanded the long dowel down to thin it out to slide through easier . Job took close to two hours taking my time but wouldn't you know it that guitar bulge is gone my friends. Thank you for the tutorial. Ventura Bruno V12 picked up for 50.00 at goodwill and bridge dr. Wa 30.00 I'd say I'm happy with my purchase will buy new strings clean up the frets for a near 40 year old guitar she gonna sing....
Reading this gives me a bit more confidence to try it on my 1975 12 string Epiphone which has a very large belly bow in fact it's unplayable very high action, it's been sat in the case for 25+ years.
Thanks Brit! Always liked the British accent, they sound so smart, but you described the installation of the "JLD Bridge System", not the "JLD Bridge Doctor". They are different, the System is for 6 string, the Doctor is for 12 string. I am installing one in a 1969 Yamaha Red Lable 12 string guitar. Should be easier to play afterwards, even though it plays good now. For you that have an old 12, a great Luthier told me to use a set of D'addario number 9's.
The instructions tell you to first drill the 1/4" hole, which will be flat bottomed, and then the smaller hole for the screw. The screw was actually slightly larger than the 1/4" hole so I had to grind down the screw head so it would fit into the hole. The screw is a flat head with beveled sides, as all flat heads have, so you have a flat bottom hole for the beveled head. It seems to me that the screw will possibly split the bridge so I used a regular bit to counter sink the smaller hole. I think they should supply a round head screw instead. Has anyone else had this experience?
I don’t see any comments on here about humidity, or lack, which is what causes these problems to begin with. I live in the high desert in New Mexico. Relative humidity usually in the teens and 20’s. I forgot to humidify my guitar (mostly because I now play more mandolin), and here’s my “diary” of healing my guitar recently: Yamaha FG-335E (acoustic with electric pick-up) 1/25/2023 Brad & Luther looked at my guitar & suggested Galen take a look. 1/27/2023 Galen took a look and said my guitar is begging for humidity and it’s about to explode if I don’t do something immediately. I humidified it that night. He said soak a towel and put it in a plastic bag in the sound hole and in the case for a month! He said my Yamaha is top-of-the-line for the year it was made and deserves a really good effort. I put 2 small bowls with a soaked sock in each one, with a drop of frankincense. Covered the sound home with a plastic cover and locked the case. 2/1/2023 added more water to bowls. 2/9/2023 added more water to bowls. 2/10/2023 added cutting boards at bridge end to add weight per Galen’s recommendation. He recommended a telephone book but I wouldn’t be able to close the case so I used small cutting boards. 2/17/2023 added more water to bowls. 2/21/2023 Galen inspected, measured, and said he sees improvement. He showed me how the wood shrank and the frets didn’t, and are sticking out. But he said it’s progressing nicely and needs more time humidifying. He said when I put new strings on, don’t use first string with diameter any higher than .11. The others will be .14, .22, .38, etc. He suggested looking at UA-cam video by Bridge Doctor. Might need to drill a hole as he did with his guitar, to put like a truss rod similar to the truss rod inside the neck, but at the bridge end. Added more water to bowls at home and replaced cutting boards.
It all depends on the severity of the of the bow, the wood used to make the guitar, the ambient temperature of the room the guitar is stored etc. In order to ensure the desired result, it is best to never overtighten the screw, but make several adjustments over a period of time. The number of adjustments and the period of time is subject to that which I mentioned in my first sentence. My apologies for the ambiguity of my response but there are so many variables that we simply have to suck it and see. Can't stress this enough, little and often......good, over tighten for a quick fix...... bad.
The 12 string that I’m working on has a strap button cable insert on it that seems to line up right where the dowel will meet the tail block. Will this thing be effective if I move the bridge dr to the side. Say between the and d strings?
Sorry for the delay with my response. You can site the bridge doctor where ever you wish on the bridge. It's location will not affect the end result at all. The only downside will be cosmetic as the plug for the hole will not be centralised. If this is not a problem then fine and dandy. If cosmetics is important take a look at the brass pin version of the bridge doctor. You can use any of the pins to site the bridge doctor and there will be no need to drill a hole in the bridge.
You can install the product onto a new guitar, which will prevent bow and enhance the tome of the guitar. On saying that, I would not install on a new guitar of mine as things could go wrong with the install (such as drill slipping, mistake with marking etc. I would prefer o wait until a guitar needed attention. As Confucius said, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."
That is correct. The Bridge Doctor will pull the bridge down. To fix your problem will require pressure to be exerted upwards, very gradually, using humidity to make the wood supple. Patience, many wafer thin shims and twice as many baths, will eventually push the bridge back to its proper place on the guitar. You can go down the road of removing the top, removing bracing that has warped and replacing them with new straight bracing but that would be the job of a professional luthier, whos time is not cheap. Hope this helps.
The wooden block is attached to the bridge via the hole that will be drilled thru the bridge. The screw is driven thru the top of the bridge into the plastic post, which in turn is attached to the wooden block. The wooden extension adjacent to the plastic post will touch the underside of the bridge/guitar body. When placing the block to establish where the hole should be drilled, you must ensure that the block does not interfere with any bracing, bridge pin or pick up wire if a pick up is installed. See video 2.00 to 2.23 minutes. Hope this helps.
Not at all. If you pay close attention to the location of the mini cables and ensure that the Bridge Doctor does not pinch them, then you will not encounter any problems.
I did this to two guitars and it worked great. (1) Install two Bridge Doctors in parallel at the first and sixth bridge pins. (2) Steam the lower inside chamber of the body for three minutes. (3) Let it rest for one month. (4) Remove the Bridge Doctor.(5) Thank me later.
Nice to hear another success story. I would be interested (as I am sure others will be) why you elected to use two. As for removing them, I am assuming that it would be because of tonal changes. I would like to advise users of the Bridge Doctor who have installed it using the conventional method, that there is no need to remove the device.
This product works by exerting pressure in a downwards motion from within the guitar to pull the belly of the guitar back to its original state. If your sound hole has sunken, then you will require a product that will either push from the inside or pull from the outside.
Providing you install the product correctly, it works perfectly. Here is a link to a video of a Luther using the bridge doctor to fix a Gibson. You could email him to find out if he was happy with the result. Hope this helps you.
No, definitely not. Beg, borrow or buy a drill. Alternatively take guitar to someone who has a drill and ask them to drill the hole. Using anything else will not produce a good finish or may damage the guitar.
Remember that a fairly skilled person with tools is NOT a guitar repair person. Fitting your hand inside a guitar soundhole and installing this device is NOT what most fellows ever do. Repairmen do this all the time and have practice at it.
Theyn don't repair all guitars. Older guitars that are 3 1/4 inch thick from the balck to the top face plate (known as Old Time Cheap Parlor guitars of the 1940 and 50's" doesn't fit. The bridge Doctor is too large to insert inside, due to the size of the braces. Newer and thicker $ inch thick Guitars it fits in quite well and easy because there is enough space inside to install it, where in the 3 1/4 inch thick guitar there is not enough room to install it. The main block of popular wood will not stand upright inside, because the braces are in the way. To save these older guitars from the garbage bin, you have to design and build your own personal bridge Doctor to correct any warpping of the face plate that will fit inside and be installed. I know these cheap old guitars are more or less wall-hangers these days compared to newer designed guitars, but the same problem arises in taking warpage out of Ukuleles as well that use metal strings over nylon and rubber for strumming. I have repaired many an old time parlor guitar and brought it back to life where it can be played properly. Now they are no-longer just wall hangers but also very playable as well.
Using leverage, the Bridge Doctor transfer the string tension to the end block, thus relieving the stress on the top of the instrument and allows the timber to relax and return to its original form.
@@stretch5889 So I get the impression the soundboard's ability to vibrate freely and resonantly has been encumbered by the restrictive tension of it being in effect, chained to the endblock...Seems intuitively like a major alteration to the soundboard's compliance
FINALLY!!! Someone knows how to fully explain and show how this is supposed to be used properly :) Well done!
Is it okay to instal product on a brand new guitar. The thinking is to prevent the bridge rising or will the bridge collapse?
This is a, for dumb ass's vid..
@@bobthebulider7571 many people actually install them on their brand new guitar to avoid it all together
This video is absolutely fantastic, thank you for spending time to make it, the best among others i've seen so far.
Really great job David! Straight and to the point. My brother has a Breedlove with this installed. Now I get it. Will try it on my 12 string with a sunken bridge. Acts as a sound post like a violin too. Nice loud and warm tone. Love this no-nonsense CG animation.
This is part of the Breedlove design, they've been using these for years. Every Breedlove whether it's American or Asian made has these in them.
Cockney crafter
Thanks for the informative video. The animation was simple and to the point.
It’s answered a lot of my questions and given me the confidence to do the repair on my 1981 Yamaha fg 335 ii , which I got as a gift when I was 15
Not an expensive guitar used but it means a lot to me, and I played a friend’s mid 60’s Gibson Songbird, and at least in my mind, they sounded close. Or close enough to my ears.
Excellent instructional video, hoping to flatten the body on my old '70's 12 string, thanks for posting this David.
Very well done instructional video on the installation of this device. I think the only difficulty is finding the best location of where the device block will mount on the bridge plate without hitting something else. Doing this by feel may work, but I plan to use a mirror to get a good visual assessment before I proceed.
One thing that should be mentioned. After installation and during tension rod adjustment and tightening, the guitar, at least in my case, started to pop and crack loudly as the top was being levelled. I believe this is normal, but it can be a little frightening if you're not prepared for this. BTW, results were excellent, Bravo Bridge Doctor !
Superb video! Best BD install video online. Thanks David.
Such wise and on point digital luthier ghosts!! Thanks.
Excellent demonstration, especially using the animation to demo the inside of the guitar was a stroke of genius 👍
Many thanks for your kind comments.
Great video, very informative. I probably would have tried to tighten it down way to quickly, now I know to adjust it slowly over a months time. thank you!
You are welcome and thank you for taking the time to write a comment. They are most appreciated.
What a FANTASTIC video!!!!! Thanks!
For only £25 this is a great fix and if you can get your hands on a 'plug cutter', make your own inlay out of ebony or rosewood. I don't think everybody would want an odd looking inlay dot on the bridge...
I know I'm quite late to this party. I was looking for a fix for my beloved 12 string. Mr Cockney Crafter, this is THE BEST explanation of this "bolt on" repair. I've seen it done with real people fumbling through the process. Not exactly confidence inspiring. Your animated video is a stroke of genius. A BIG THANK YOU for taking the time to share with us.
Many thanks for the compliments. Let me know how you got on with the installation. If you are nervous, may I suggest:
Measure twice, cut once.
Drill holes slowly and always use a bradawl to ensure the drill will not slip.
If you are having difficulties, leave the job and return the next day.
Above all else, take your time.
@@stretch5889 Great advice. I just ordered it and it'll be here on Sunday. I'll take my time....got nothing but time these days. A 12 string requires the brass pins, so no drilling for me.
This is by far the best video by ANYONE for installation that I've seen. The company that makes the bridge doctor (JLD) doesn't even have something this good, (which is actually kind of shocking!!)
Thank you for your kind comment.
@@stretch5889 One question if you don't mind. In the tools list, the first drill bit you mention. I can't understand what type of drill bit your are calling it. I think the second word is "spur" but I can't make out the first word.. It's a minor point but I want to get it right! Thank you very much!
Used this tutorial tonight to install bridge doctor on acoustic with bulging belly.
A couple of things... Ran into issue drilling hole in bridge ended up getting to close to bridge pins not a pretty sight but nothing some wood filler won't fix. Also the long dowel that slides through to the tailpiece of the guitar was a bitch to get through the hole I ended up fighting the bracing of the guitar I also modified the block itself to gain clearance and sanded the long dowel down to thin it out to slide through easier . Job took close to two hours taking my time but wouldn't you know it that guitar bulge is gone my friends. Thank you for the tutorial.
Ventura Bruno V12 picked up for 50.00 at goodwill and bridge dr. Wa 30.00 I'd say I'm happy with my purchase will buy new strings clean up the frets for a near 40 year old guitar she gonna sing....
Reading this gives me a bit more confidence to try it on my 1975 12 string Epiphone which has a very large belly bow in fact it's unplayable very high action, it's been sat in the case for 25+ years.
Good..excelent..😊👍
Excellent graphics. Thanks.
That's a pretty killer jam tho.
Thanks Brit! Always liked the British accent, they sound so smart, but you described the installation of the "JLD Bridge System", not the "JLD Bridge Doctor". They are different, the System is for 6 string, the Doctor is for 12 string.
I am installing one in a 1969 Yamaha Red Lable 12 string guitar. Should be easier to play afterwards, even though it plays good now. For you that have an old 12, a great Luthier told me to use a set of D'addario number 9's.
I have brace right where the wood block will touch. Am I sh!t outta luck?
Well done!
Thank you for your kind comment.
Maasyaallah, thank you
The instructions tell you to first drill the 1/4" hole, which will be flat bottomed, and then the smaller hole for the screw. The screw was actually slightly larger than the 1/4" hole so I had to grind down the screw head so it would fit into the hole. The screw is a flat head with beveled sides, as all flat heads have, so you have a flat bottom hole for the beveled head. It seems to me that the screw will possibly split the bridge so I used a regular bit to counter sink the smaller hole. I think they should supply a round head screw instead. Has anyone else had this experience?
Will this work on a classical guitar bridge?
Great
Great instructional vid.
Thanks for the compliment. Glad you enjoyed it. 😊
Cheers mate I got an old fender with this problem
Thank you for your comment. Very happy that you found the video helpful.
I don’t see any comments on here about humidity, or lack, which is what causes these problems to begin with. I live in the high desert in New Mexico. Relative humidity usually in the teens and 20’s. I forgot to humidify my guitar (mostly because I now play more mandolin), and here’s my “diary” of healing my guitar recently:
Yamaha FG-335E (acoustic with electric pick-up)
1/25/2023 Brad & Luther looked at my guitar & suggested Galen take a look.
1/27/2023 Galen took a look and said my guitar is begging for humidity and it’s about to explode if I don’t do something immediately. I humidified it that night. He said soak a towel and put it in a plastic bag in the sound hole and in the case for a month! He said my Yamaha is top-of-the-line for the year it was made and deserves a really good effort. I put 2 small bowls with a soaked sock in each one, with a drop of frankincense. Covered the sound home with a plastic cover and locked the case.
2/1/2023 added more water to bowls.
2/9/2023 added more water to bowls.
2/10/2023 added cutting boards at bridge end to add weight per Galen’s recommendation. He recommended a telephone book but I wouldn’t be able to close the case so I used small cutting boards.
2/17/2023 added more water to bowls.
2/21/2023 Galen inspected, measured, and said he sees improvement. He showed me how the wood shrank and the frets didn’t, and are sticking out. But he said it’s progressing nicely and needs more time humidifying. He said when I put new strings on, don’t use first string with diameter any higher than .11. The others will be .14, .22, .38, etc. He suggested looking at UA-cam video by Bridge Doctor. Might need to drill a hole as he did with his guitar, to put like a truss rod similar to the truss rod inside the neck, but at the bridge end. Added more water to bowls at home and replaced cutting boards.
Absolutely brilliant. Finally a wanker free zone.
Xddd habla gracioso mi compa
Hi there can u define all materials that use in that bridge doctor? TIA
Nice explain by the way
Nice video. Do we have to tighten the dowel scew after some again. If yes, after how many days/weeks do we have to do tight ..?
It all depends on the severity of the of the bow, the wood used to make the guitar, the ambient temperature of the room the guitar is stored etc. In order to ensure the desired result, it is best to never overtighten the screw, but make several adjustments over a period of time. The number of adjustments and the period of time is subject to that which I mentioned in my first sentence. My apologies for the ambiguity of my response but there are so many variables that we simply have to suck it and see. Can't stress this enough, little and often......good, over tighten for a quick fix...... bad.
Hey great video but would this work on a 12 string guitar?
A nice short and sweet answer...yes.
The 12 string that I’m working on has a strap button cable insert on it that seems to line up right where the dowel will meet the tail block. Will this thing be effective if I move the bridge dr to the side. Say between the and d strings?
Sorry for the delay with my response. You can site the bridge doctor where ever you wish on the bridge. It's location will not affect the end result at all. The only downside will be cosmetic as the plug for the hole will not be centralised. If this is not a problem then fine and dandy. If cosmetics is important take a look at the brass pin version of the bridge doctor. You can use any of the pins to site the bridge doctor and there will be no need to drill a hole in the bridge.
Is it okay to instal product on a brand new guitar? The thinking is to prevent bridge rising or will the bridge collapse?
You can install the product onto a new guitar, which will prevent bow and enhance the tome of the guitar. On saying that, I would not install on a new guitar of mine as things could go wrong with the install (such as drill slipping, mistake with marking etc. I would prefer o wait until a guitar needed attention. As Confucius said, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."
So it won't really help if your problem is a sinking bridge, is that correct? You can't really use it to prop the bridge up? Only pull it down?
That is correct. The Bridge Doctor will pull the bridge down. To fix your problem will require pressure to be exerted upwards, very gradually, using humidity to make the wood supple. Patience, many wafer thin shims and twice as many baths, will eventually push the bridge back to its proper place on the guitar. You can go down the road of removing the top, removing bracing that has warped and replacing them with new straight bracing but that would be the job of a professional luthier, whos time is not cheap. Hope this helps.
looks like im gonna be doing this.
Good luck with the install. Should you have any questions leave a comment so that the answer may be viewed by others.
is the wooden part of the bridge doctor supposed to touch the bridge saddle or just barely pass it?
The wooden block is attached to the bridge via the hole that will be drilled thru the bridge. The screw is driven thru the top of the bridge into the plastic post, which in turn is attached to the wooden block. The wooden extension adjacent to the plastic post will touch the underside of the bridge/guitar body. When placing the block to establish where the hole should be drilled, you must ensure that the block does not interfere with any bracing, bridge pin or pick up wire if a pick up is installed. See video 2.00 to 2.23 minutes. Hope this helps.
Cockney Crafter okay thanks
I ordered one. Will this interfere with a k&k pure mini?
Not at all. If you pay close attention to the location of the mini cables and ensure that the Bridge Doctor does not pinch them, then you will not encounter any problems.
@@stretch5889 thank you 😊
I did this to two guitars and it worked great. (1) Install two Bridge Doctors in parallel at the first and sixth bridge pins. (2) Steam the lower inside chamber of the body for three minutes. (3) Let it rest for one month. (4) Remove the Bridge Doctor.(5) Thank me later.
Nice to hear another success story. I would be interested (as I am sure others will be) why you elected to use two. As for removing them, I am assuming that it would be because of tonal changes. I would like to advise users of the Bridge Doctor who have installed it using the conventional method, that there is no need to remove the device.
will it help in reshaping a sunken soundhole in acoustic guitar?
This product works by exerting pressure in a downwards motion from within the guitar to pull the belly of the guitar back to its original state. If your sound hole has sunken, then you will require a product that will either push from the inside or pull from the outside.
@@stretch5889 oh wow thank you so much! do you have any such product links sir? or reference video links?
Minecraft profile picture
Hi, I wonder if this device affects the sound of the instrument in any way?
indeed it does. Once fitted and the bow treated, the guitar will have a warmer tone.
thank you@@stretch5889
Hi there, Anybody tried this product yet? Does it really bring down the bulging behind the bridge? Thank you!
Providing you install the product correctly, it works perfectly. Here is a link to a video of a Luther using the bridge doctor to fix a Gibson. You could email him to find out if he was happy with the result. Hope this helps you.
I don’t have a drill, should I try a screwdriver?
No, definitely not. Beg, borrow or buy a drill. Alternatively take guitar to someone who has a drill and ask them to drill the hole. Using anything else will not produce a good finish or may damage the guitar.
How much does it cost for someone else to install it?
any good luthier would probably charge you by the hour. And if you have to hand it in after a month to have it checked over, it will get pricey...
Around 130 including the part
Remember that a fairly skilled person with tools is NOT a guitar repair person. Fitting your hand inside a guitar soundhole and installing this device is NOT what most fellows ever do. Repairmen do this all the time and have practice at it.
Where can I buy that?
www.btnmusic.co.uk/
Does the Bridge doctor have to be install permanently or remove after some time?
The Bridge Doctor should be installed permanently. Some install when there is no need to prevent bow or to enhance tone.
Thank you.@@stretch5889
Eu mesmo fabrico meus "bridge doctor" No Brasil não encontrei para comprar . Então eu mesmo fiz com mogno e pinho.
mogno bom. pinho e' um pouco mole, melhor usar pau mais duro :-)
Theyn don't repair all guitars. Older guitars that are 3 1/4 inch thick from the balck to the top face plate (known as Old Time Cheap Parlor guitars of the 1940 and 50's" doesn't fit. The bridge Doctor is too large to insert inside, due to the size of the braces. Newer and thicker $ inch thick Guitars it fits in quite well and easy because there is enough space inside to install it, where in the 3 1/4 inch thick guitar there is not enough room to install it. The main block of popular wood will not stand upright inside, because the braces are in the way. To save these older guitars from the garbage bin, you have to design and build your own personal bridge Doctor to correct any warpping of the face plate that will fit inside and be installed. I know these cheap old guitars are more or less wall-hangers these days compared to newer designed guitars, but the same problem arises in taking warpage out of Ukuleles as well that use metal strings over nylon and rubber for strumming. I have repaired many an old time parlor guitar and brought it back to life where it can be played properly. Now they are no-longer just wall hangers but also very playable as well.
Didn't exactly explain how it works. Anybody?
Using leverage, the Bridge Doctor transfer the string tension to the end block, thus relieving the stress on the top of the instrument and allows the timber to relax and return to its original form.
@@stretch5889 So I get the impression the soundboard's ability to vibrate freely and resonantly has been encumbered by the restrictive tension of it being in effect, chained to the endblock...Seems intuitively like a major alteration to the soundboard's compliance
всё понятно даже без перевода. спасибо
Спасибо за ваш добрый комментарий