The blocks are the same casting. with studs the 2 bolt should hold 750 / 8oo hp. What was the origin of the 4bole? did the block crack at the studs from excessive cylinder pressure / hydro locking? The cap walk is the primary concern. put those 4 bolt caps on the 2 bolt block or fill it and go for it.
@@richardgriffin-t4c not sure what caused it I got the block from a guy and when I took it apart that's what we found so I am having to my 2 bolt block decked now and going to have the 4 bolt pinned at the crack and fill it like you said but as for now just going to run the 2 bolt and I do have studs in it but thanks for the info
Machine shop should have told you to offset grind the crank, not deck the block. You get more stroke and cubes that way. Go to 0 deck too. Oh and stop waving the camera around, I damn near threw up....😅
@@bigdaddys73nova ya the guy doing the machine work on it says he runs a 454 in a mud truck also at high rpms and said he don't have any problems either so going to give it a try just have to keep a eye on it thanks for the comment
I personally run a 2-bolt 454 with studs and all forged components. I know this setup can safely turn 6500, but certainly not running the horsepower or rpms you do. I recall one of the mechanics at a custom engine shop who also ran a moderate 454 (about 550) 2-bolt with studs. He started running a 200 hp shot of nitrous on an 1/8 mile track and found that there was some cap walk.
There's a reason why GM puts 6 bolt mains on 4.8 LS based engines. Cap walk is one issue but also 4 bolt main caps(on your 454) make the block more rigid. That will reduce flex and uneven main bearing wear. RPM's are the main reason YOU, personally, should spend the extra money. If you're talking 750hp@6500 rpm's 2 bolts are fine. But 750@7500-8000rpms is a different story. Just my opinion and it's free so take it for what it's worth!!!
@@yurimodin7333 ya I know your right going to try and get through this year and look at that next season man this stuff is expensive but it's just to much fun to stop thanks for the comment
My big block is a 2 bolt main I've never had any problems we all know a 4 bolt is better but like I said I've never had a problem intact I'm getting ready to put together a lil 406 small block and with a 400 I prefer to use a 2 bolt over a 4 bolt .
Doug, unless I missed it. Other than 8k rpm. What information do we get to help you assess the risk. Is it N/A, blown, nos, turbo, 16 to 1 compression, How much stroke are you planning to go with and these sorts of things are helpful in deciding on how well the rotator should be strapped to the case. Wish you all the best sir!
@@Tom-z1q thanks it will be the stock 4inch stock with around 13 1/2 comp and just n/a no power adders stock gm steel crank with eagle rods arp main studs and rod bolts
@RustedWenchGarage ok, in that case as long as it is well balanced. I am pretty confident 2 bolt with a stud kit will be ok. Although I would be very cautious with ARP 220,000 psi studs. I would prefer to see 190,000 psi studs and probably use stock bolts in the heads if possible. Reason, the bolt is only as good as the thread medium its threaded into. the heads especially, it is very important the bolt is in stretch when installed and engine heat cycles. Or clamp load will be lost throughout heat cycling. Good luck Sir.
I don't believe those small cracks will cause any problems. You could pressure test the block to make sure it hasn't made it to the cylinder. BBC have thick sleeves from the factory. You said it's on alcohol so it will run cooler than gasoline. And the crack is coming from the water passage. Put some sealer in the coolant and run a lighter pressure radiator cap. But as I first said I don't think it will be a problem. As far as 2 vs 4 bolt a 2 bolt with studs will be fine. As you know BBC have healthy main caps and main webbing. Good luck with your build.
@@495ciGTO thanks for that info I am going to run the 2 bold on race gas and I will definitely look into that and if I can I will run the 4 bolt on alcohol as fare as the small crack that going from the bolt hole and headed to the cylinder I may just have it pinned but having it pressure tested is good advise thanks
There's nothing wrong with the two bolt Main, run quite a few back in the early 80s injected motor in a boat, I was really hard on it no problems. The key is lightest and strongest piston rods and crank. Actually the web in the block with a two-bolt main is stronger than a 4 bolt Main. If the two bolt main caps are fitted properly with good studs there won't be no walking the cap speculation garbage. Now to the crack block don't be welding on it you'll cause more trouble than what it's worth, overlap screw the crack. If you don't know what that means I can't explain it to you, then take and sleeve that cylinder. What's causing 90% of these blocks to be cracked like that is that these so-called machine shops are putting these blocks in the oven and heated them up to clean them that is a no no. EPA seems to turn everybody's head😂.
@RustedWenchGarage a good machine shop should know. Older Machinist. There's companies out there that make screws especially for that, but what you do you start at the end of the crack and you drill a hole halfway into the good casting and Hathaway's into the crack and then tap the hole for the size of the screw the screw does not have to be much bigger than the width of the crack, I always use permanent Loctite, and then screw a screw in tight, cut the screw off flush with the top of the deck then make sure the screws are long enough you're only using the shank of the screw, don't let the head get close to where you have to cut it off it is only on the screw to screw the screw in, drill a another hole half into the screw and the crack drill and tap put another screw in, repeat the process until you get to the end of the crack, what you are doing is stitching the crack with screws and it will prevent it from cracking and leaking, and the screws will not go nowhere because you are taking half of the screw each time it is interlocking them together. And when I say screw it has to be a bolt type thread on a small fastener they do make a tapered screw just for this, I don't remember off the top of my head what the part number is I'm not at my shop, it is best if it is a clean steel screw no cadmium plate. I have fixed a lot of cast heads like that and blocks, been doing this stuff for a long time. Good luck.👍.
If you're only going to 7500 I use the block you got sitting there till it breaks If you're going to 9 Grand then you got to worry about it you can get away with a two-bolt man at 7,500 you have to understand these blocks are old and they've been around a long time or just buy a dart block add a steel crank they're all bombs ready to go off ends on your valve train
weld it up, run ceramic coating through the cooling jackets and you're done...no biggie.... 10 years ago...sure, today's aerospace chemistry not an issue
@@jeffalvich9434 I will have to look into that I am just setting on the block for now and may do something with it on the future thanks for the information
My 71455 Pontiac Motors is a 2 bolt Main and it's 500 ft lb of torque
@@awfulcoffelsonecargarage8215 that's cool bet it leaves hard
I run a 2 bolt ARP studs and a girdle everything runs great
What rpm to you run it up to
@mellott5150 6200
@mellott5150 6200
The blocks are the same casting. with studs the 2 bolt should hold 750 / 8oo hp. What was the origin of the 4bole? did the block crack at the studs from excessive cylinder pressure / hydro locking? The cap walk is the primary concern. put those 4 bolt caps on the 2 bolt block or fill it and go for it.
@@richardgriffin-t4c not sure what caused it I got the block from a guy and when I took it apart that's what we found so I am having to my 2 bolt block decked now and going to have the 4 bolt pinned at the crack and fill it like you said but as for now just going to run the 2 bolt and I do have studs in it but thanks for the info
Have them machine the block for splayed caps. Better than a 4 bolt.
Machine shop should have told you to offset grind the crank, not deck the block. You get more stroke and cubes that way. Go to 0 deck too. Oh and stop waving the camera around, I damn near threw up....😅
@@will7its ya sorry I am new at trying to video and move around need better video stuff but thanks for watching I will try and do better
@@RustedWenchGarage No biggie, you'll be a Scorsese soon enough....😅
Ran 550hp in mud truck with factory cast crank 6,000 rpm’s never a hiccup, definitely not what you’re gonna run, but with bounce
@@bigdaddys73nova ya the guy doing the machine work on it says he runs a 454 in a mud truck also at high rpms and said he don't have any problems either so going to give it a try just have to keep a eye on it thanks for the comment
I personally run a 2-bolt 454 with studs and all forged components. I know this setup can safely turn 6500, but certainly not running the horsepower or rpms you do. I recall one of the mechanics at a custom engine shop who also ran a moderate 454 (about 550) 2-bolt with studs. He started running a 200 hp shot of nitrous on an 1/8 mile track and found that there was some cap walk.
@@badgerbait8351 thanks for the comment I not going to run any power adders just all motor going to give it a try and see how it goes
There's a reason why GM puts 6 bolt mains on 4.8 LS based engines. Cap walk is one issue but also 4 bolt main caps(on your 454) make the block more rigid. That will reduce flex and uneven main bearing wear. RPM's are the main reason YOU, personally, should spend the extra money. If you're talking 750hp@6500 rpm's 2 bolts are fine. But 750@7500-8000rpms is a different story. Just my opinion and it's free so take it for what it's worth!!!
@@1967davethewave thanks and I do lesson to all advise
sonic test the cylinder bores and fully crack test the block especially the valley and deck surfaces
@@paulthompson1654 ok good idea thanks
@@RustedWenchGarage corroded cylinder sleeves/liners combined with being thin walled can lead to a short life caused by bore distortion
by the time it matters you are on the edge of needing an aftermarket block........either way its better than not racing.
@@yurimodin7333 ya I know your right going to try and get through this year and look at that next season man this stuff is expensive but it's just to much fun to stop thanks for the comment
My big block is a 2 bolt main I've never had any problems we all know a 4 bolt is better but like I said I've never had a problem intact I'm getting ready to put together a lil 406 small block and with a 400 I prefer to use a 2 bolt over a 4 bolt .
@@richardsmith-qy6vl how many rpms did you run your 454 up to
2 bolt stud and strap is a third option
Doug, unless I missed it. Other than 8k rpm. What information do we get to help you assess the risk. Is it N/A, blown, nos, turbo, 16 to 1 compression, How much stroke are you planning to go with and these sorts of things are helpful in deciding on how well the rotator should be strapped to the case.
Wish you all the best sir!
@@Tom-z1q thanks it will be the stock 4inch stock with around 13 1/2 comp and just n/a no power adders stock gm steel crank with eagle rods arp main studs and rod bolts
@RustedWenchGarage ok, in that case as long as it is well balanced. I am pretty confident 2 bolt with a stud kit will be ok. Although I would be very cautious with ARP 220,000 psi studs. I would prefer to see 190,000 psi studs and probably use stock bolts in the heads if possible. Reason, the bolt is only as good as the thread medium its threaded into. the heads especially, it is very important the bolt is in stretch when installed and engine heat cycles. Or clamp load will be lost throughout heat cycling.
Good luck Sir.
@Tom-z1q thanks you so much sounds like some good advice
I don't believe those small cracks will cause any problems. You could pressure test the block
to make sure it hasn't made it to the cylinder. BBC have thick sleeves from the factory. You
said it's on alcohol so it will run cooler than gasoline. And the crack is coming from the water
passage. Put some sealer in the coolant and run a lighter pressure radiator cap. But as I first
said I don't think it will be a problem. As far as 2 vs 4 bolt a 2 bolt with studs will be fine. As
you know BBC have healthy main caps and main webbing. Good luck with your build.
@@495ciGTO thanks for that info I am going to run the 2 bold on race gas and I will definitely look into that and if I can I will run the 4 bolt on alcohol as fare as the small crack that going from the bolt hole and headed to the cylinder I may just have it pinned but having it pressure tested is good advise thanks
@@495ciGTO thanks
There's nothing wrong with the two bolt Main, run quite a few back in the early 80s injected motor in a boat, I was really hard on it no problems.
The key is lightest and strongest piston rods and crank.
Actually the web in the block with a two-bolt main is stronger than a 4 bolt Main.
If the two bolt main caps are fitted properly with good studs there won't be no walking the cap speculation garbage.
Now to the crack block don't be welding on it you'll cause more trouble than what it's worth, overlap screw the crack. If you don't know what that means I can't explain it to you, then take and sleeve that cylinder.
What's causing 90% of these blocks to be cracked like that is that these so-called machine shops are putting these blocks in the oven and heated them up to clean them that is a no no. EPA seems to turn everybody's head😂.
@@sherwinstaudt1881 thanks but ya I have never heard of over lap the screws so not sure what that means
@RustedWenchGarage a good machine shop should know. Older Machinist.
There's companies out there that make screws especially for that, but what you do you start at the end of the crack and you drill a hole halfway into the good casting and Hathaway's into the crack and then tap the hole for the size of the screw the screw does not have to be much bigger than the width of the crack, I always use permanent Loctite, and then screw a screw in tight, cut the screw off flush with the top of the deck then make sure the screws are long enough you're only using the shank of the screw, don't let the head get close to where you have to cut it off it is only on the screw to screw the screw in, drill a another hole half into the screw and the crack drill and tap put another screw in, repeat the process until you get to the end of the crack, what you are doing is stitching the crack with screws and it will prevent it from cracking and leaking, and the screws will not go nowhere because you are taking half of the screw each time it is interlocking them together. And when I say screw it has to be a bolt type thread on a small fastener they do make a tapered screw just for this, I don't remember off the top of my head what the part number is I'm not at my shop, it is best if it is a clean steel screw no cadmium plate. I have fixed a lot of cast heads like that and blocks, been doing this stuff for a long time. Good luck.👍.
If you're only going to 7500 I use the block you got sitting there till it breaks
If you're going to 9 Grand then you got to worry about it you can get away with a two-bolt man at 7,500 you have to understand these blocks are old and they've been around a long time or just buy a dart block add a steel crank they're all bombs ready to go off ends on your valve train
Thanks
weld it up, run ceramic coating through the cooling jackets and you're done...no biggie.... 10 years ago...sure, today's aerospace chemistry not an issue
@@jeffalvich9434 I will have to look into that I am just setting on the block for now and may do something with it on the future thanks for the information
2 bolt send it
Neither they both suck!😂
4 bolt main def. their tougher engines. especially if your going for a high horse engine nothins better than a 4 bolt main.