I had a AL80 with the same problem. It drove me crazy troubleshooting it. I bought a new tube because I did not know how to fix it like you. Thanks for the video. AF5U
Hey Buddy, nice repair! Inventory, Did one a year ago, took a couple of months off and on. Found many parts I knew I had but couldn't find them. Thank you for your time e and sharing. Joel
Wow, I would have looked at that tube and said ok it looks good but you checked closer and those are so corroded no wonder they are no longer connected. When you come down to it you can really only stock so much of the parts you need but, what is really bad is when you look around and find the parts you were looking for somewhere else in the shop and you ordered new ones. Two thumbs up for getting a nice Amp back to the owner in perfect shape you are the best Buddy.
Thanks for the great tip Buddy. I do have a few amp's here and have worked on them. I used one for a while but haven't for about 2 years now. Found I didn't need it when I upgraded the antenna system. I live in a small city lot with neighbors very close so don't want to turn their lights on and off. Again great stuff and we always learn a lot from your videos.
Good job Buddy...I've fixed 3-500 pins before as well and used sliver solder to fill the void. Surprisingly replacing the compression spring in the tube socket takes all of 30 seconds; didn't realize it was so easy the first time I looked at one and thought I'd have to replace the whole socket...the trick is having a extra socket around as a parts mule! 73 - Dino KL0S
Thanks Dino. Most of the ones I have seen the spring was over heated and deformed. End up replacing the whole socket. I never used silver solder on these, scared the extra heat would crack the tube. Guess I will try it next time.
I misspoke...didn't completely fill the tube with silver solder, just to top off the top fillet when smoothing the "hemisphere"...you're right, probably need too much heat to completely fill the entire pin. Sorry for the confusion.@@TheRadioShop
Hi Buddy What a great video and repair. The humble way you share your knowledge makes watching so interesting. I always learn so much from you. I only wish I had your experience. Thank you for posting this one for us. Mel
Great job of diagnosing, and repairing the amp. Can't get more straight forward then that. PS. As a 10 year I put my fingers in a unplugged Heathkit dx 100. I was lucky. I only lost a fingernail. Not to mention the jolt I remember to this very day. If one doesn't know how to work on high voltage gear do what I do, and send them (it) to a professional. 73
@@TheRadioShop It only goes to show that even the professionals sometimes for whatever reason can, and do get zapped. I don't know the statistics, but those professionals who work on high power lines while sitting on a grounded plate that's attached to a helicopter still lose arms (if they're lucky,) and sometimes their lives. Some people just don't understand how lethal something so small can be. I think people that aren't in the know think to themselves how much damage could possibly be done by something that looks so non-lethal (small?) Unfortunately many people find out the hard way how extremely lethal the voltages in amplifiers especially, but not limited to just amps. Power supplies, transceivers, transmitters etc etc etc can, and do kill people, and mame people every year
Great video! You can't emphasize enough about the dangers of the voltages inside a tube amplifier. AC from a wall outlet can give you a kick, but the HV DC in one of these amps will kill you in an instant! I'm currently rebuilding a Yaesu FL-2100Z amp. I treat it with the utmost respect.
Just how many tubes that were replace then repaired. Also that tube remind me when I would show movies. They went from a carbon arc to a tube for light. It kind of look like that one but a little more in size.
interesting repair I haven't had to resolder a tube pin before, but I can imagine how hot that amp gets. The amps I serviced in the Navy (Harris RF-130 or Military Designation AN/URT-23) had tubes that were bayonet style and ceramic with cooling fins where forced air was constantly blown through them. In 9 years I only replaced 3 of them. The major failure point was the HV cap coming off the plate. I cannot remember the tube type but they were spendy. Very informative, thanks! 73 K7TIE
Thanks. Those Harris units were built like tanks. When they designed this amplifier they did not take cooling into consideration. Why the pins became unsoldered. Thanks for stopping in.
I found a assortment sizes of humming bird feeder cleaning brushes ,like 10 different sizes to clean out tube sockets,one.of your friends I think gave me the idea ,The first ones I bought were all one size didn't work well then I keep looking on eBay I found on a ring with ten different sizes works great for all different tube sockets with a little deoxit 5 .which I am sure you have your own method ,tooth picks work too
Yup there needs to be more fan blade below the chassis or bottom cooling and chimney. I wonder if 2% silver solder might be a good idea?? If the glass and pin seals would take it?? Just a thought.
Yes you are right. Needs better cooling. Problem though is the design, only half inch of space under the tube. Really cannot raise the tube any higher because it is already close to top cover. You could lay the tube sideways but then that's another issue. Thought about silver solder but like you said, lot of heat on the pins.
Great video for me Buddy because I have the SB-1000 with and original I-mac.Great amp.I love it.Do you know where I can get relay for my yaesu ft-726R.I've cleaned it several times but it goes back to sticking again.Tnx 73 from Ronnie kn4u
The actual tube pins emerging from the the glass bulb are made of Tungsten. The Tungsten first had to be cleaned by a electro-chemical process called "Nitriding." Since it is difficult (or impossible?) to use lead solder to interface with bare Tungsten, the leads had to be dipped in a molten pot of silver solder with a special brazing flux, then washed with water. After drying, the socket was installed, using a machined spacer inserted between the envelope base and the top of the socket wafer. Then, the socket pin tips were first dipped in flux, then dipped in 50/50 lead/tin mix in a solder pot. You can't do a proper repair without a pot IMO. That particular tube is quite an old Eimac, judging from the red colored socket wafer. I'm thinking early 70's. Later Eimac's had the yellow/brown colored wafer. The problem is very common from (of course) too much heat and not enough air flow at the base. Air system socket/glass chimney eliminated the problem. The military had similar issues with 4-400A's, which was solved by spot welding of a tubular nickel sleeve to the Tungsten leads at the interface point instead of just a silver solder dip. I don't think the nickel sleeve method was ever used on the 3-500Z though. 3-500Z's were just considered a ham tube, because of an effort to keep the manufacturing cost very low for the market. Oxidized (greened) Tungsten makes a great glass/metal seal, but difficult set of bonding issues for current flow with a mechanical socket.
Yes and most of those pin preparation steps were made before the base of the tube was attached to the main bottle and then after it was, the whole tube would have been heated so that any heat applied to the tungsten feedthrough wires wouldn't create a vacuum leak cause by high thermal differential temps. Bear in mind the difference in coefficient of expansion between the metal feedthroughs and the surrounding borosilicate glass envelope. It's so scary watching such a filthy soldering iron tip doing exactly what should never be done to ultrahigh vacuum feedthroughs. YIKES!
AL-80a, after 40 years being a Ham, I'm new to amps and this is the first amp I've ever had. After operating flawlessly for over a year, now my filament also does not light up and the input SWR is showing infinite when the transceiver & amp are keyed. High voltage shows good, about 3100+. I can't find a video for the procedure of actually 'bleeding' the capacitors and I surely don't want to meet my maker. Anyone know of a video anywhere showing that for the AL-80a for this rookie?
Near the beginning (when you were talking about draining the caps) and you said, "I have some resistors...", I _swear_ I thought I heard you say, "I have some _sisters_ ..." and assumed you were referring to multiple family apprentices that can be deployed in a High Voltage situation...
Buddy, what wattage or temperature do you use to resolve the 3-500z tube pins? I always thought it took high temp to flow the original solder. I have a couple of tubes that this exact thing has happened to. If I could fix them, I'd have a spare or two for the Drake L-4B and my HB pair. Nice video as usual.
LETHAL VOLTAGES!!! Yea is true. I have been doing radio restoration. Fixed power supply issues, all new caps and full alignment (got very similar Rigol as you except bought the mso4000 scope) on a TS-940S Kenwood. Restore TS-530S as well, in that now. Hybrid radio. Learned a lot about valves and I have grown more and more interested in them. Now I am torn. Should I build a solid state amp or go with a rather what I think to be a cool lookin, somewhat fun to operate tube amp? The voltages concern me some but proper safety measures and knowledge help. What amp has a better spectral purity? Tube amps in certain instances can be more efficient, not major concern other than a tube amp with filaments on and not transmitting is doing nothing but eating juice. Tubes somewhat cheaper but they do eventually wear, solid state last long but are very expensive to buy and match. Sorry for the ramble.
Thanks for sharing all that. That is a big decision. Have to remember tubes are voltage monsters, while power transistors are current monsters. Can be a bit of a trade off. Simple for me, tubes.
The big downside of amp's like this, no chimney with forced airflow over the tube socket. Nice to be able to save the tube from heading to the scrap pile.
I'm not surprised! Ameritron, MFJ's Chief company. You'd think Ameritron would want to protect such a nice piece of glass. BUT NOOOOOO!!! They (Ameritron) have to know that this is a possible outcome minus a chimney. Yet they choose to build the amp without one. I guess it's ok when they're building "cheap" 811 amps, but this amp isn't one of their cheapies. How much could it possibly cost them to produce a chimney, and fan (placed in the correct area??
tube not lighting, I'll guess and assume filament pins overheated and solder dropped out. and yep, it's been "rode hard and put away wet" so to speak :)
G'day Buddy This happened to an Eimac I had. Unfortunately, a friend of mine tried to repair it and couldn't get the pins to retake the solder. We were contemplating getting a jeweller to electroplate it for us but in the mean time, I discovered the tube rattling... The filament had come away...so the tube went to heaven. Any tricks on what the correct flux and solder is to use to win these back? If it ever happens again, I'll want to fix it. 73 Aaron VK2ON
Aaron, I think I failed to mention what solder I used but I repair these with silver solder. Just need to make sure you remove as much as the old solder that you can and clean with IPA. Just remember silver solder takes more heat so be careful notto over heat it.
This has happened to me. it's because of the design of the cooling. It needs a chimney and bottom airflow past the pins for cooling. this will happen again.....
I had a Henry 2k2 with this problem. It had a pressurized chassis but the PO had run it without the chimneys. I had to change the socket the fingers were to the point where they lost spring tension. Also the solder melted right out of the pins as you found.
Hello buddy I just recently sent you an email regarding some radio’s of mine that need repair I would like to send them to mike or you but I have no shipping information for mike. Let me know in the email 73’s
Yikes and Yuck. Most pin preparation steps are made before the base of the tube is attached to the main bottle then, the whole tube would be heated so that heat applied to the tungsten feedthrough wires wouldn't create a vacuum leak cause by high thermal differential temperatures creating stress on the adjacent glass. Bear in mind the difference in Coefficient of Expansion between the metal feedthrough wires and the surrounding borosilicate glass base. It's so scary watching such a filthy soldering iron tip doing exactly what should NEVER be done to ultrahigh vacuum feedthroughs. YIKES! Can't you ever clean your soldering iron tip on a wet soldering sponge? Yuck. Have you ever thought of using a clean, very sharp razer knife blade to clean those pins rather than taking a chance at cracking the glass by enlarging the metal pins with heat????
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Never had an amp with 3-500 tube so this fix would have probably been the last place I would have looked. Thanks, I learned something helpful today.
Looking forward to the micro surgery on the meter coil. You're a brave man doing that on camera Buddy. 73 Doug.
LOL thanks Doug, Brave? You mean mad!
They say that there is a fine line between genius and insanity.
True!
I had a AL80 with the same problem. It drove me crazy troubleshooting it. I bought a new tube because I did not know how to fix it like you. Thanks for the video. AF5U
Great diagnostic doctor. The patient has a long life ahead of it.
We can only hope lol. But the design is not that great.
That was a great repair Buddy. And congratulations to the winner of a very useful tool.
Thanks Mike
Hey Buddy, nice repair! Inventory, Did one a year ago, took a couple of months off and on. Found many parts I knew I had but couldn't find them. Thank you for your time e and sharing. Joel
Thanks for watching Joel. Yes I hate inventory!
K
Good job, radio doctor.Congrats from Lithuania.
Wow, I would have looked at that tube and said ok it looks good but you checked closer and those are so corroded no wonder they are no longer connected. When you come down to it you can really only stock so much of the parts you need but, what is really bad is when you look around and find the parts you were looking for somewhere else in the shop and you ordered new ones. Two thumbs up for getting a nice Amp back to the owner in perfect shape you are the best Buddy.
Thank you Larry. Yep seen that happen in the cheaper 3-500Z tubes many times. It is almost a given and the first place to look. with them.
Thanks for another troubleshooting video Buddy. I thoroughly enjoy watching you work.
Thank you David
Fantastic video Buddy! Congrats to the winner! ~Jack, VEG
Thanks Jack
Thanks for the great tip Buddy. I do have a few amp's here and have worked on them. I used one for a while but haven't for about 2 years now. Found I didn't need it when I upgraded the antenna system. I live in a small city lot with neighbors very close so don't want to turn their lights on and off. Again great stuff and we always learn a lot from your videos.
Thanks Lyle. I do not run amplifiers myself. Only in testing purposes.
Good job Buddy...I've fixed 3-500 pins before as well and used sliver solder to fill the void. Surprisingly replacing the compression spring in the tube socket takes all of 30 seconds; didn't realize it was so easy the first time I looked at one and thought I'd have to replace the whole socket...the trick is having a extra socket around as a parts mule! 73 - Dino KL0S
Thanks Dino. Most of the ones I have seen the spring was over heated and deformed. End up replacing the whole socket. I never used silver solder on these, scared the extra heat would crack the tube. Guess I will try it next time.
I misspoke...didn't completely fill the tube with silver solder, just to top off the top fillet when smoothing the "hemisphere"...you're right, probably need too much heat to completely fill the entire pin. Sorry for the confusion.@@TheRadioShop
You know that may be ok then, I do have some tubes that are already cracked. I will practice on them.
It good to see the Amp is back to life Good video
Thanks
Nice repair. And congrats to the winner.
Hi Buddy
What a great video and repair. The humble way you share your knowledge makes watching so interesting. I always learn so much from you. I only wish I had your experience. Thank you for posting this one for us.
Mel
Thanks Mel. I really appreciate comments like this. Thank you for your support
Great job of diagnosing, and repairing the amp. Can't get more straight forward then that. PS. As a 10 year I put my fingers in a unplugged Heathkit dx 100. I was lucky. I only lost a fingernail. Not to mention the jolt I remember to this very day. If one doesn't know how to work on high voltage gear do what I do, and send them (it) to a professional. 73
Thanks, Ouch, now that is no fun at all. Don't ask how I know lol.
@@TheRadioShop It only goes to show that even the professionals sometimes for whatever reason can, and do get zapped. I don't know the statistics, but those professionals who work on high power lines while sitting on a grounded plate that's attached to a helicopter still lose arms (if they're lucky,) and sometimes their lives. Some people just don't understand how lethal something so small can be. I think people that aren't in the know think to themselves how much damage could possibly be done by something that looks so non-lethal (small?) Unfortunately many people find out the hard way how extremely lethal the voltages in amplifiers especially, but not limited to just amps. Power supplies, transceivers, transmitters etc etc etc can, and do kill people, and mame people every year
Very good info on those tube pins getting corroded and coming un-soldered.
Great video!
You can't emphasize enough about the dangers of the voltages inside a tube amplifier. AC from a wall outlet can give you a kick, but the HV DC in one of these amps will kill you in an instant!
I'm currently rebuilding a Yaesu FL-2100Z amp. I treat it with the utmost respect.
Thanks Michael, you are correct on that. Good luck on your rebuild.
Well done . Thanks for your time and wisdom. Ps. If you feel slightly winded I apologize, my playback speed was set at 1.5x. ;) 73's
Thanks. Hey, that helps with the slow taking :)
Great job as usual Buddy. Thanks for the fun 👍
Salute to you Sir. It's very informative and very good repair technique like McGyver
Happy Holidays Buddy - thanks for another great video.
Thanks Bob and Happy Holiday to you
info needed how do you set the variable caps and aline the amp ?? 73's n4jrs
Wow,that's an interesting mess. great info and repair.
Just how many tubes that were replace then repaired. Also that tube remind me when I would show movies. They went from a carbon arc to a tube for light. It kind of look like that one but a little more in size.
interesting repair I haven't had to resolder a tube pin before, but I can imagine how hot that amp gets. The amps I serviced in the Navy (Harris RF-130 or Military Designation AN/URT-23) had tubes that were bayonet style and ceramic with cooling fins where forced air was constantly blown through them. In 9 years I only replaced 3 of them. The major failure point was the HV cap coming off the plate. I cannot remember the tube type but they were spendy. Very informative, thanks! 73 K7TIE
Thanks. Those Harris units were built like tanks. When they designed this amplifier they did not take cooling into consideration. Why the pins became unsoldered. Thanks for stopping in.
Another great video Buddy. Thank you. Once again I learned something new. Big Thumbs-UP
Thanks very much Frank
Nice video here. You might briefly explain how to buff out scratches in the clear VTVM faceplate, without making things worse. Thank you.
1600 grit wet parer works a treat
I found a assortment sizes of humming bird feeder cleaning brushes ,like 10 different sizes to clean out tube sockets,one.of your friends I think gave me the idea ,The first ones I bought were all one size didn't work well then I keep looking on eBay I found on a ring with ten different sizes works great for all different tube sockets with a little deoxit 5 .which I am sure you have your own method ,tooth picks work too
Nice repair Buddy!
Big Thanks Bill
Yup there needs to be more fan blade below the chassis or bottom cooling and chimney. I wonder if 2% silver solder might be a good idea?? If the glass and pin seals would take it?? Just a thought.
Yes you are right. Needs better cooling. Problem though is the design, only half inch of space under the tube. Really cannot raise the tube any higher because it is already close to top cover. You could lay the tube sideways but then that's another issue. Thought about silver solder but like you said, lot of heat on the pins.
Hey Buddy ! Merry Christmas !
Merry Christmas to you
Great video for me Buddy because I have the SB-1000 with and original I-mac.Great amp.I love it.Do you know where I can get relay for my yaesu ft-726R.I've cleaned it several times but it goes back to sticking again.Tnx 73 from Ronnie kn4u
Thanks Ronnie. Those are getting hard to find. If I run into a relay I will let you know.
The actual tube pins emerging from the the glass bulb are made of Tungsten. The Tungsten first had to be cleaned by a electro-chemical process called "Nitriding." Since it is difficult (or impossible?) to use lead solder to interface with bare Tungsten, the leads had to be dipped in a molten pot of silver solder with a special brazing flux, then washed with water. After drying, the socket was installed, using a machined spacer inserted between the envelope base and the top of the socket wafer. Then, the socket pin tips were first dipped in flux, then dipped in 50/50 lead/tin mix in a solder pot. You can't do a proper repair without a pot IMO. That particular tube is quite an old Eimac, judging from the red colored socket wafer. I'm thinking early 70's. Later Eimac's had the yellow/brown colored wafer. The problem is very common from (of course) too much heat and not enough air flow at the base. Air system socket/glass chimney eliminated the problem. The military had similar issues with 4-400A's, which was solved by spot welding of a tubular nickel sleeve to the Tungsten leads at the interface point instead of just a silver solder dip. I don't think the nickel sleeve method was ever used on the 3-500Z though. 3-500Z's were just considered a ham tube, because of an effort to keep the manufacturing cost very low for the market. Oxidized (greened) Tungsten makes a great glass/metal seal, but difficult set of bonding issues for current flow with a mechanical socket.
Yes and most of those pin preparation steps were made before the base of the tube was attached to the main bottle and then after it was, the whole tube would have been heated so that any heat applied to the tungsten feedthrough wires wouldn't create a vacuum leak cause by high thermal differential temps. Bear in mind the difference in coefficient of expansion between the metal feedthroughs and the surrounding borosilicate glass envelope. It's so scary watching such a filthy soldering iron tip doing exactly what should never be done to ultrahigh vacuum feedthroughs. YIKES!
Very informative buddy...... Thanks for sharing .
Thanks Pierre
Good video, thanks
Thanks
I need a lamp, I buy 20, I find the 10 I have in stock as soon as the 20 arrive in the mail. Murphy's law. Nice video Buddy.
That is what I am talking about lol. Murphy! Thanks for stopping ion Vern.
Great save !! Are Ameritron amps UL certified ?
AL-80a, after 40 years being a Ham, I'm new to amps and this is the first amp I've ever had. After operating flawlessly for over a year, now my filament also does not light up and the input SWR is showing infinite when the transceiver & amp are keyed. High voltage shows good, about 3100+. I can't find a video for the procedure of actually 'bleeding' the capacitors and I surely don't want to meet my maker. Anyone know of a video anywhere showing that for the AL-80a for this rookie?
Near the beginning (when you were talking about draining the caps) and you said, "I have some resistors...", I _swear_ I thought I heard you say, "I have some _sisters_ ..." and assumed you were referring to multiple family apprentices that can be deployed in a High Voltage situation...
ROFL Now that is funny right there. Sisters will work fine for the task!
Thank you very smart
I wonder how many dealers would charge for a new tube ! great repair may be better to use high melting solder in this case
Agreed.
I read that some people will use BBC/Thales T510-1 tubes in these amplifiers.
I think I read that on E-Ham before.
This was a great video. I have known hams to throw those expensive tubes away because of bad connections.
Could you remove the corrosion with vinegar?
Yes, I even did a video on that.
Buddy, what wattage or temperature do you use to resolve the 3-500z tube pins? I always thought it took high temp to flow the original solder. I have a couple of tubes that this exact thing has happened to. If I could fix them, I'd have a spare or two for the Drake L-4B and my HB pair. Nice video as usual.
LETHAL VOLTAGES!!! Yea is true. I have been doing radio restoration. Fixed power supply issues, all new caps and full alignment (got very similar Rigol as you except bought the mso4000 scope) on a TS-940S Kenwood. Restore TS-530S as well, in that now. Hybrid radio. Learned a lot about valves and I have grown more and more interested in them. Now I am torn. Should I build a solid state amp or go with a rather what I think to be a cool lookin, somewhat fun to operate tube amp? The voltages concern me some but proper safety measures and knowledge help. What amp has a better spectral purity? Tube amps in certain instances can be more efficient, not major concern other than a tube amp with filaments on and not transmitting is doing nothing but eating juice. Tubes somewhat cheaper but they do eventually wear, solid state last long but are very expensive to buy and match. Sorry for the ramble.
Thanks for sharing all that. That is a big decision. Have to remember tubes are voltage monsters, while power transistors are current monsters. Can be a bit of a trade off. Simple for me, tubes.
Congrats! to NikkiGurlSixtyNine!!!
Awesome
How can I get in touch with you? I have a Heathkit sb-1000 that is only producing 2300 vdc. Before it was making 3400 vdc. I'm need of help. Thanks
do you still work on radios i have a ic7300
The big downside of amp's like this, no chimney with forced airflow over the tube socket. Nice to be able to save the tube from heading to the scrap pile.
Agreed Mike. And not much room for improvements.
I'm not surprised! Ameritron, MFJ's Chief company. You'd think Ameritron would want to protect such a nice piece of glass. BUT NOOOOOO!!! They (Ameritron) have to know that this is a possible outcome minus a chimney. Yet they choose to build the amp without one. I guess it's ok when they're building "cheap" 811 amps, but this amp isn't one of their cheapies. How much could it possibly cost them to produce a chimney, and fan (placed in the correct area??
@@zooyawk4526 No chimney was needed
what tube was that & how much would that cost to replace?
It is a 3-500Z cheap ones 189 bucks, name brands 300 plus
Congrats to NikkiGurlSixtyNine
Ever find me that mode switch?
Oh boy, looks like I have forgotten something. Please email me.
At 2:40 ………."Shorts the high Voltage to Ground" …………….POW !!!!!!!!
tube not lighting, I'll guess and assume filament pins overheated and solder dropped out.
and yep, it's been "rode hard and put away wet" so to speak :)
Yep, common mistake with these.
So how did he know "the tube wasn't lighting up"? Ahhhh I see! There is a screen on the side!
Yep. Plus a 3-500z is light a huge light bulb.
good video
Thanks Mark
G'day Buddy
This happened to an Eimac I had. Unfortunately, a friend of mine tried to repair it and couldn't get the pins to retake the solder. We were contemplating getting a jeweller to electroplate it for us but in the mean time, I discovered the tube rattling... The filament had come away...so the tube went to heaven.
Any tricks on what the correct flux and solder is to use to win these back? If it ever happens again, I'll want to fix it. 73 Aaron VK2ON
Aaron, I think I failed to mention what solder I used but I repair these with silver solder. Just need to make sure you remove as much as the old solder that you can and clean with IPA. Just remember silver solder takes more heat so be careful notto over heat it.
This has happened to me. it's because of the design of the cooling. It needs a chimney and bottom airflow past the pins for cooling. this will happen again.....
Agreed, but like I told OJ above, no room to redesign.
I had a Henry 2k2 with this problem. It had a pressurized chassis but the PO had run it without the chimneys. I had to change the socket the fingers were to the point where they lost spring tension. Also the solder melted right out of the pins as you found.
Great video as usual !
73 N8AUM
Thanks
Poor design of Ameritron, should be an air flow beneath the socket pins.
Agreed!
Hello buddy I just recently sent you an email regarding some radio’s of mine that need repair I would like to send them to mike or you but I have no shipping information for mike. Let me know in the email 73’s
Hey, please resend email. I do not remember seeing it. But I get quite a few mails each week.
Email resent
Yikes and Yuck. Most pin preparation steps are made before the base of the tube is attached to the main bottle then, the whole tube would be heated so that heat applied to the tungsten feedthrough wires wouldn't create a vacuum leak cause by high thermal differential temperatures creating stress on the adjacent glass. Bear in mind the difference in Coefficient of Expansion between the metal feedthrough wires and the surrounding borosilicate glass base. It's so scary watching such a filthy soldering iron tip doing exactly what should NEVER be done to ultrahigh vacuum feedthroughs. YIKES! Can't you ever clean your soldering iron tip on a wet soldering sponge? Yuck. Have you ever thought of using a clean, very sharp razer knife blade to clean those pins rather than taking a chance at cracking the glass by enlarging the metal pins with heat????