Very helpful. I was wondering how switching between up and down is performed. looking at the motor it only has 2 wires. The electronics assembly you show has 2 large black boxes which look like two Relays. is that how the switching is done? one wire has to be connected LINE and the other to NEUTRAL. right?
I will try to switch it up and down by using a smart-home-device (Shelly 2PM). For that, I ordered a used Motor on eBay to disamble it and to figure out, how the RTS / wireless up-down-switching ist working. I will do a Video of that, I think you're right with the relay-block. I will measure it and if it works, I'll show in the Video.
Thanks very complete. You did a good job of explaining it. I think this is entirely too much engineering and could be simplified. The thing looks like it could cost $400 whenit was new. So many reduction gears and press fitings!
Very nice video :D I bought a budget blind, but am having issues with the battery going flat too often. Opened it op into the tubular roller blind motor assembly, which is taken apart here, but could not go further, because I was missing the rigth torque bit. I found that the tubular roller blind motor assembly is a "am25-1.2/30-es-ez" witch goes for 80$ online. Now I'm wondering if I should replace the hole thing or see if I can find a better 7.4V lithium battery that will fit. Am missing the internal diameter of the assembly in order to find a fitting battery and do not know how long I can allow it to be. Given I find a 7.4V battery that fits is there any reason it would not work? Edit: corrected battery Voltage
You need to begin with design. Then contact tube manufacturers, electronics suppliers and plastics injection moulders. Then you will need Engineers to setup Assembly plant
@@apached343 i have AutoCAD team which can work on design as well as moulding partners who can work on making specific moulds... But i think the core part which is Inside Motor needs to be made properly...
BRAKE/MOTOR PROBLEM: I have a 30 year old SIMU which is the same company. It is a mechanical system w/o any electronics. My problem appears to be there is too much Brake and the motor will not break free and start. The brake is a fiber disc that appears to be impregnated with silicone rubber with a constant pressure spring loaded pressure plate. The brake appears to be a constant drag perhaps to stop the rotor quickly when desired blind position is reached. I don't know what the breakaway torque is supposed to be, but I believe it is massively too great: the friction surface of the disc is "grippy" as if the impregnated rubber has gotten gummy. It cannot be sanded away since impregnated. I'm looking into the possibility the motor torque is below spec: I checked the field winding resistances and they are both 25 ohms. I am in the process of getting the capacitor tested. I'm also looking on McMaster.com to see if friction material can be purchased. They sell 7x7" pieces of 1/8" material for a whopping $30 which I would buy if I knew it would solve the problem. Thank you so much for your video!!!
very interesting video, thanks for your work ! Greeting from France
Thank you
Thank you so much. You're saving a lot of time and trouble to a lot of DIY people.
Thanks a lot for taking the time to explain step by step what you find
Thanks for this. Mine is making a grinding noise. Looking at those nylon gears, that you cannot easily get to probably means a new unit
Very helpful.
I was wondering how switching between up and down is performed.
looking at the motor it only has 2 wires.
The electronics assembly you show has 2 large black boxes which look like two Relays.
is that how the switching is done?
one wire has to be connected LINE and the other to NEUTRAL.
right?
I will try to switch it up and down by using a smart-home-device (Shelly 2PM). For that, I ordered a used Motor on eBay to disamble it and to figure out, how the RTS / wireless up-down-switching ist working. I will do a Video of that, I think you're right with the relay-block. I will measure it and if it works, I'll show in the Video.
Did you test the capacitor I am finding that is the major source of the motor failure in tube blind motors.
Can you show us where the dowel holes locate with the internals of the motor?
Amazing engineering
so, the only way to disassembly the motor is to cut-out the carcaza with a grinder, as he did?
Good video! I am wondering if the windings inside this motor size are pure copper or CCA?
Thanks very complete. You did a good job of explaining it.
I think this is entirely too much engineering and could be simplified. The thing looks like it could cost $400 whenit was new. So many reduction gears and press fitings!
Thanks. Yes, they are very sturdy and over engineered. Actually cost around $1000 AUD.
Meu motor parou se eu trocar a bobina ele valta a funcionar
Very nice video :D
I bought a budget blind, but am having issues with the battery going flat too often.
Opened it op into the tubular roller blind motor assembly, which is taken apart here, but could not go further, because I was missing the rigth torque bit.
I found that the tubular roller blind motor assembly is a "am25-1.2/30-es-ez" witch goes for 80$ online.
Now I'm wondering if I should replace the hole thing or see if I can find a better 7.4V lithium battery that will fit.
Am missing the internal diameter of the assembly in order to find a fitting battery and do not know how long I can allow it to be.
Given I find a 7.4V battery that fits is there any reason it would not work?
Edit: corrected battery Voltage
Hi, how can connect fibaro gate shutter controller module to 3 wires blinds motor? Is there any possibility to do so? Thank you
Donde puedo comprar repuestos para esros motores
Looking for: "how to repair somfy 40 rts motor."
Hi, the motor is an AC Motor, isn’t it? Thanks!
No it's DC. The big white capacitor is precisely to rectify the AC power supply into DC for the motor.
i m thinking of manufacturer tubular Motor in India... Can u guide who can provide us Large scale manufacturing machinery for this ??
You need to begin with design.
Then contact tube manufacturers, electronics suppliers and plastics injection moulders. Then you will need Engineers to setup Assembly plant
@@apached343 i have AutoCAD team which can work on design as well as moulding partners who can work on making specific moulds... But i think the core part which is Inside Motor needs to be made properly...
@@AlpeshPatelp87 You could try to contact local electric motor manufacturers to design and supply the tubular motor,
@@apached343 ya so to local Motor manufacturer what specifications i need to give him to make Inside Motor.....
if u know please let me know...
@@apached343 Also for different Nm Motor are they using different types of inside Motor?
Hello! let me ask what is the encoder
BRAKE/MOTOR PROBLEM: I have a 30 year old SIMU which is the same company. It is a mechanical system w/o any electronics. My problem appears to be there is too much Brake and the motor will not break free and start. The brake is a fiber disc that appears to be impregnated with silicone rubber with a constant pressure spring loaded pressure plate. The brake appears to be a constant drag perhaps to stop the rotor quickly when desired blind position is reached. I don't know what the breakaway torque is supposed to be, but I believe it is massively too great: the friction surface of the disc is "grippy" as if the impregnated rubber has gotten gummy. It cannot be sanded away since impregnated.
I'm looking into the possibility the motor torque is below spec: I checked the field winding resistances and they are both 25 ohms. I am in the process of getting the capacitor tested.
I'm also looking on McMaster.com to see if friction material can be purchased. They sell 7x7" pieces of 1/8" material for a whopping $30 which I would buy if I knew it would solve the problem.
Thank you so much for your video!!!
thaks