just thought it thru, you're absolutely right... everything cancels out except half of old blade length and half of new blade length and the difference is the same as saying 1/2 the difference between the new lengths... well that would have been easier... at least people learn a new formula
@@BrianLeeDick I was sure you had an engineering background based on the approach but that last statement makes me believe you are a teacher. The belief that people will learn anything that starts with a “Pie” that is not edible gives me hope for humanity.
Hey great to see your video. I have a saw which has been discontinued and I can't get the riser block assembly for it anymore. I am going to try your approach. Since it has been a year now do you still like the mod or do you recommend against it? Also any other insights or tips you may have based on your year worth of experience, that I can keep in mind when doing this? Thanks again for this. Take care.
I would still make the mod. I would definitely determine which height you want to go and then price out the bolt. Longer bolts get expensive quick, and that's going to be your biggest expense believe it or not most likely. Try industrial companies like Fastenal or Grainger... Call them first and get a quote .. Ask them if it's in stock and if they're willing to come down on price cause I'm guessing it doesn't turn often.. Or see if some of the big box stores will order it in. And because you're not talking a lot of force on the bolt in this situation you can go lowest grade
i definitely would do it again... oddly enough, the best blade for it almost always is the really fine tooth one that is 1/2" wide... the cut feed has to be really slow cause the dust ejection from the blade is slower with the finer teeth, but it makes it so it almost doesn't even matter how low the guide post is when I make a cut which is great because the guide post doesn't go all the way down for a lot of cuts. it definitely feels like I have a more expensive machine with this extender. I just have to make little small tweaks to make it perform at this added capacity.
I got an old 18in grizzly saw. Been restoring it. Nothing too wild, but the max resawing capacity is 10in, the nice thing is that it has a 2hp motor. I want to make it 18in but ill re approach my goal after the whole blade availability point. Been really temper at just buying a 6in riser for a 14in saw (almost the same dimensions) and then modify it to make it work Besides the pleasures and pains of diy do you have a reason why not just take this approach?
nope.. especially if you have a 2hp....i guess the only thing would be if you also plan to do a ton of samll detail stuff, and you don't feel like slowing down with the higher guidepost
@@BrianLeeDick what species of wood did you use? And did you get any deflection? I have 2 12in craftsman bandsaws. They are about 5-6 yo, the euro body and have a semi decent 3/4hp motor. I used one of them to resaw (the second one is new to me) They have a 7in resaw capacity so they are ok
So you have a 11 and 3/4 max capability with the spacer but the tensioner has probably close to 1 1/2 travel, so could you have made the spacer 7” or over that? How much slack do you have between the bottom position of the tensioner and the blade?
yeah i probably had some wiggle on height cause at bottom tension the blade is certainly loose, but i wanted that "experience" to be the same at the higher set up so getting the blade on and tight would be the same ish
i was thinking of that but I'll have to find a way to grind a straight groove in it cause the original has abv-shaped groove in it that accepts the screw stopper that you used to adjust the height
Have you found a guide post that can accommodate the riser or are you still using the original? I'm really tempted to do this with my craftsman but for cutting smalls I really hate having so much slack. Now that I see a riser is possible, I will have to look into fabricating a longer guide post. Maybe Carter has an aftermarket piece available? Thanks for the info, awesome build! I love my old Craftsman bandsaw but 5" max resaw has been a pain in the ass for years lol.
pretty much half inch only for width.. and i have a 4 tpi and a 14tpi....i strongly prefer the 14 and just go really really slow,... the 4 tends to wander on me more
That is a very complicated way to say the riser height is the difference between the two blades divided by 2.
just thought it thru, you're absolutely right... everything cancels out except half of old blade length and half of new blade length and the difference is the same as saying 1/2 the difference between the new lengths... well that would have been easier... at least people learn a new formula
@@BrianLeeDick I was sure you had an engineering background based on the approach but that last statement makes me believe you are a teacher. The belief that people will learn anything that starts with a “Pie” that is not edible gives me hope for humanity.
Hey great to see your video. I have a saw which has been discontinued and I can't get the riser block assembly for it anymore. I am going to try your approach. Since it has been a year now do you still like the mod or do you recommend against it? Also any other insights or tips you may have based on your year worth of experience, that I can keep in mind when doing this?
Thanks again for this. Take care.
I would still make the mod. I would definitely determine which height you want to go and then price out the bolt. Longer bolts get expensive quick, and that's going to be your biggest expense believe it or not most likely. Try industrial companies like Fastenal or Grainger... Call them first and get a quote
.. Ask them if it's in stock and if they're willing to come down on price cause I'm guessing it doesn't turn often.. Or see if some of the big box stores will order it in. And because you're not talking a lot of force on the bolt in this situation you can go lowest grade
Well done!
thanks
Any update??
Would you do it again if you could do it over??
I have the same exact saw.
i definitely would do it again... oddly enough, the best blade for it almost always is the really fine tooth one that is 1/2" wide... the cut feed has to be really slow cause the dust ejection from the blade is slower with the finer teeth, but it makes it so it almost doesn't even matter how low the guide post is when I make a cut which is great because the guide post doesn't go all the way down for a lot of cuts. it definitely feels like I have a more expensive machine with this extender. I just have to make little small tweaks to make it perform at this added capacity.
I got an old 18in grizzly saw. Been restoring it. Nothing too wild, but the max resawing capacity is 10in, the nice thing is that it has a 2hp motor.
I want to make it 18in but ill re approach my goal after the whole blade availability point.
Been really temper at just buying a 6in riser for a 14in saw (almost the same dimensions) and then modify it to make it work
Besides the pleasures and pains of diy do you have a reason why not just take this approach?
nope.. especially if you have a 2hp....i guess the only thing would be if you also plan to do a ton of samll detail stuff, and you don't feel like slowing down with the higher guidepost
@@BrianLeeDick what species of wood did you use? And did you get any deflection?
I have 2 12in craftsman bandsaws. They are about 5-6 yo, the euro body and have a semi decent 3/4hp motor. I used one of them to resaw (the second one is new to me)
They have a 7in resaw capacity so they are ok
@@CharlezMalasana he said something about laminating some 2x so probably pine
So you have a 11 and 3/4 max capability with the spacer but the tensioner has probably close to 1 1/2 travel, so could you have made the spacer 7” or over that? How much slack do you have between the bottom position of the tensioner and the blade?
yeah i probably had some wiggle on height cause at bottom tension the blade is certainly loose, but i wanted that "experience" to be the same at the higher set up so getting the blade on and tight would be the same ish
Try a piece of black pipe for guide post. Not sure what size you need. Or a piece of solid steel bar.
i was thinking of that but I'll have to find a way to grind a straight groove in it cause the original has abv-shaped groove in it that accepts the screw stopper that you used to adjust the height
Have you found a guide post that can accommodate the riser or are you still using the original? I'm really tempted to do this with my craftsman but for cutting smalls I really hate having so much slack.
Now that I see a riser is possible, I will have to look into fabricating a longer guide post. Maybe Carter has an aftermarket piece available?
Thanks for the info, awesome build! I love my old Craftsman bandsaw but 5" max resaw has been a pain in the ass for years lol.
i haven't yet..i just make due. if you end up finding it let me know
What width of blade did you use and what tooth per inch? Thanks
pretty much half inch only for width.. and i have a 4 tpi and a 14tpi....i strongly prefer the 14 and just go really really slow,... the 4 tends to wander on me more
wild ahaha, Hey Brian!
haha... what's up TV star
You forgot to mention that it voids your warranty.
haha...i think it being 30 years old did that too