Learning from your videos is great Mike. Here in Florida, I'm doing a 200 sq ft repair to my driveway, demoing out the old concrete. The pour guys to just pour and finish want $1500 labor only. Unreal down here.
Awesome Concrete Team, I could watch this crew all day, REAL PROFESSIONAL, Mike doesn’t have to tell Darren or Luke anything like a well oiled machine, perfect finish every time on every slab…Dream Team 👏👏👏
Kinda surprised at the lack of rebar in the garage, with the foam underneath the floor, I would assume the floor is not sitting on a lookout ledge around the outside of the slab. I don’t have the confidence in the fiber mesh that some do. I think I would have preferred the slab sitting on the lookout, with rods sitting in a grade beam, suspended, with the entrance of the slab sitting directly on the front foundation blocks. I’m old school, so maybe my ways are outdated, but they worked for me for many years, very seldom had cracks, or settling. I will say I’m enjoying concrete work a lot more sitting in the peanut gallery! LOL 😊
We get hired as a sub on these floors, the GC gets the plans from the engineer and we follow the plans. If it only calls for fibers, that's what we do. If the sub-base is done correctly, we don't have any problems.
@@MikeDayConcrete Yes Sir, I understand, I never liked doing jobs like that, I always preferred to do my own prep and set up, if something came up, I knew who to blame, that’s why I always over did the prep, especially in the garages and porches. There were actually a couple more steps I used that I didn’t mention. Like I said, old school, we worked harder, not smarter! LOL 😂 Was wondering, as long as I’m asking, do you ever put a weather lip at the front of the garage, so the door actually sits 1 1/2” lower than the actual floor to keep the snow from blowing underneath the door in case of buildup in the winter? I live in a lake effect area, so we probably get a lot more snow here than you do. On the north west facing garages I always made sure to go the extra step.
No, we don't do the 1.5" lip here, we taper the edge from inside the concrete wall about 1/2" to the outside of the wall. We get the taper up under where the door sits. We've never had a problem doing it this way. And no trip edge.
@@MikeDayConcrete Yes, I have seen it done that way, we get some very strong winds here in the winter, it just made a nice weather tight seal, never really had a trip step problem with it, the seal was tight to the bottom, and the lip was right up against the back of the seal, so it was like a two fold stop. Like I told you, old school, we did everything the hard way, we weren’t as smart as you young fella’s, I’m glad to see that things have progressed, old school took a toll on me, we didn’t have the plasticizers you fellas have today either, it was 4” slump on the basements, 3” on the garages and porches, lol and a lot of swearing, and grunting! 😉
Oh Yeah! Prep, Right mix, CREW! You got one!! The guy with the RC box on the pump helps, too. Great watchin you guys The Old Retired Laborer (Ret. 14 years today)
Good explanation Mike. We do the same steps besides cutting joints in after we are done. We dont cut foundation but we pour monolithic foundations only
I run a concrete pump and I hate when I get to a job and there is everything in the way where I have to set up the pump and making sure the ground is good to drive on to get the trucks to the pump guys forget we have outriggers on the pump and need more space.
Hey Mike I love your videos can you explain a little more about the relationship between mix design and long-term durability. And also how long you should wait between a new floor being poured and epoxy floor coating or paint . I'm doing a work shop here in Maryland 20x30 what should I use for a mix design? Thanks in advance for tips/help
I'd use a 3000 psi mix or even a 3500, both are good. 3/4 aggregate, no-air, we put micro-fiber in all our pours. Then it's 30 days before you can epoxy it.
I can’t afford hiring crews so what about just doing 1 truck at a time? How to divide a 40x60’? Temp dividers? What’s this I hear about steel placed at control joints?
Do not let that stop you. Make a plan for getting experience. Even make your own stepping stones, like 2'X2' and practice finishing. Start accumulating tools such as a mag float, jointers, etc. Take pictures of your small efforts. Make contacts with finishers and be honest about your lack of experience. Be honest and punctual. You will get your foot in the door.
proper preparation prevents piss poor product. its all about the game plan. thats the truth. nothing but love mike
Learning from your videos is great Mike. Here in Florida, I'm doing a 200 sq ft repair to my driveway, demoing out the old concrete. The pour guys to just pour and finish want $1500 labor only. Unreal down here.
Awesome Concrete Team, I could watch this crew all day, REAL PROFESSIONAL, Mike doesn’t have to tell Darren or Luke anything like a well oiled machine, perfect finish every time on every slab…Dream Team 👏👏👏
Kinda surprised at the lack of rebar in the garage, with the foam underneath the floor, I would assume the floor is not sitting on a lookout ledge around the outside of the slab. I don’t have the confidence in the fiber mesh that some do. I think I would have preferred the slab sitting on the lookout, with rods sitting in a grade beam, suspended, with the entrance of the slab sitting directly on the front foundation blocks. I’m old school, so maybe my ways are outdated, but they worked for me for many years, very seldom had cracks, or settling. I will say I’m enjoying concrete work a lot more sitting in the peanut gallery! LOL 😊
We get hired as a sub on these floors, the GC gets the plans from the engineer and we follow the plans. If it only calls for fibers, that's what we do. If the sub-base is done correctly, we don't have any problems.
@@MikeDayConcrete Yes Sir, I understand, I never liked doing jobs like that, I always preferred to do my own prep and set up, if something came up, I knew who to blame, that’s why I always over did the prep, especially in the garages and porches. There were actually a couple more steps I used that I didn’t mention. Like I said, old school, we worked harder, not smarter! LOL 😂 Was wondering, as long as I’m asking, do you ever put a weather lip at the front of the garage, so the door actually sits 1 1/2” lower than the actual floor to keep the snow from blowing underneath the door in case of buildup in the winter? I live in a lake effect area, so we probably get a lot more snow here than you do. On the north west facing garages I always made sure to go the extra step.
No, we don't do the 1.5" lip here, we taper the edge from inside the concrete wall about 1/2" to the outside of the wall. We get the taper up under where the door sits. We've never had a problem doing it this way. And no trip edge.
@@MikeDayConcrete Yes, I have seen it done that way, we get some very strong winds here in the winter, it just made a nice weather tight seal, never really had a trip step problem with it, the seal was tight to the bottom, and the lip was right up against the back of the seal, so it was like a two fold stop. Like I told you, old school, we did everything the hard way, we weren’t as smart as you young fella’s, I’m glad to see that things have progressed, old school took a toll on me, we didn’t have the plasticizers you fellas have today either, it was 4” slump on the basements, 3” on the garages and porches, lol and a lot of swearing, and grunting! 😉
Premier concrete channel. PERIOD.
Oh Yeah! Prep, Right mix, CREW! You got one!! The guy with the RC box on the pump helps, too. Great watchin you guys
The Old Retired Laborer (Ret. 14 years today)
Thanks John.
Good explanation Mike. We do the same steps besides cutting joints in after we are done. We dont cut foundation but we pour monolithic foundations only
Awesome, thanks!
I run a concrete pump and I hate when I get to a job and there is everything in the way where I have to set up the pump and making sure the ground is good to drive on to get the trucks to the pump guys forget we have outriggers on the pump and need more space.
Yup, a lot of guys forget about the outriggers.
Thanks for the videos. Great learning tool.
Glad you like them!
Great video thanks
Looks good.
Very cool that you have a daughter that can work like that and keeps after it until the job is done.
Great video, Mike!
Nice job guys ✊🏼🤨
Great job everyone, see ya on the next one!
Hey Mike I love your videos can you explain a little more about the relationship between mix design and long-term durability. And also how long you should wait between a new floor being poured and epoxy floor coating or paint . I'm doing a work shop here in Maryland 20x30 what should I use for a mix design? Thanks in advance for tips/help
I'd use a 3000 psi mix or even a 3500, both are good. 3/4 aggregate, no-air, we put micro-fiber in all our pours. Then it's 30 days before you can epoxy it.
You ever use set delay with the mid or high range water reducer?
there's a lot to be said for good planning when there is no margin for error for sure.
do u guys not say easy money in the far east, it is like a common saying all aroubd the midwest
No, I guess we don't.
@MikeDayConcrete thats whats up mike! it usually is said when it is a hard a$$ day or a really really easy job
On a garage floor how do you determine when it's too damaged to over pour? And when to tear out. I don't believe it has any rebar or mesh in it.
Hey Mike, how do u figure how many trucks u need. It's always tricky, isn't?
I can’t afford hiring crews so what about just doing 1 truck at a time? How to divide a 40x60’? Temp dividers? What’s this I hear about steel placed at control joints?
I recently saw a pole mounted jointer which has a round base. Have you used one?
Do the water reducers have an affect on how fast the concrete hardens? Less time, same or more time to work with it?
I feel like it's about the same. Not really noticeable at all
@@MikeDayConcrete Thanks
One day we need to meet....
this sucks bc im 23 and want to get into doing concrete but i have no experience and the main tip he said was to have experienced on the job lol
Try working for someone for a year to gain a little experience, don't make mistakes on you own that may cost you a lot of money.
Do not let that stop you. Make a plan for getting experience. Even make your own stepping stones, like 2'X2' and practice finishing. Start accumulating tools such as a mag float, jointers, etc. Take pictures of your small efforts. Make contacts with finishers and be honest about your lack of experience. Be honest and punctual. You will get your foot in the door.
I’d like to see that idiot west coast custom concrete . Place and finish a floor like that ..looks good man
Easy Money
If it makes job easier I'm all for buying it
Yup!
Easy is seldom simple.