This is one of the best videos I've seen to demonstrate the "Stitch and Glue" method of boat construction. I've been doing a lot of research because I'm starting my own project. I wonder how I missed this. I think it came up with a keyword of "sail", but this is a very valuable video for folks doing Boat Builder Central or Devlin style boats as well.
Thanks for great overview. Your video covered the areas in question that I had while building my Tenderly . This is my first ever boat build and finding videos with details pertinent are infrequent. Thanks
Very nice build presentation MM. I was very taken by the graphite epoxy as I am just making my centreboard case and have been thinking of how to finish the interior of it. Thanks for the tip.
Nice video. It will help other builders see all the steps in construction more clearly. While I envy your collection of tools, others should not be daunted by having fewer. Old-fashioned hand tools are quite enough for building a great boat -- though I confess to using a circular saw, a saber saw, and a power sander just because I already owned them. I think the key hand tools are a Japanese saw, a keyhole saw, a spoke shave, a block plane, a rasp, and a bunch of sandpaper!
One of the main reasons I had to use so many tools was because I built the optional wooden mast. Originally, the plans call for buying aluminum tubing for the mast. That's a pretty easy solution, but I wanted the experience and didn't want to see that hunk of metal center-stage on my wooden boat. I actually built a lot of the boat with just the hand saw, jig saw and Shinto rasp.
Nice build. I also like your "land skiff" in the background of a few shots. I've been a Jeep fan since I was kid in the 60s and a sailboat fan since the 70s.
Thank you for your video. I can comment on your laminated skids on the bottom of the hull. I just finished repairing a boat where the skids were thicker than the bottom plywood. They tore out some hull veneer at the forward ends, likely from weight on the inside of the boat flexing the bottom, and the plywood hull being more flexible than the skids. I tapered the thickness of the replacement skids for eight or ten inches so they went from full thickness to thinner than the hull plywood. I also made them longer than the originals, so they ended further forward on solid plywood, rather than the patched area from the previous skids. I'm confident that they will not damage the hull plywood as the bottom flexes.
Ha! Thanks. I couldn't even hear him over the sound of the wind in the sail. I discovered it when we got home and my wife showed me the video. Had to include it. Pure gold...
Thank you for your beautifully narrated video tutorial which has excellent videography, lighting and editing too! It was really interesting, informative and entertaining and stands as a perfect 'How To' for those that also want to build themselves this lovely craft. Subscribed.
@@MidnightMaker Not nesting, but folding, two individual hulls which are joined by a hinge, halving the overall length for ease of transport and storage.
A jigsaw with a fine wood blade is an effective alternative to the hand saw. A router bit with a guide bearing and down shear allows routing the edges without splintering the top face of the ply. If you are goinng to put this effort into construction, marine ply that meets quality standards is highly recommended as it is solid all the way through without voids inside. Expect to replace wooden mast and boom after a few years as they suffer from water damage easily. If it's hollow the inside will rot. Aluminium spars are much more reliable. Sail with friends or a sailing club as it's a great deal of fun, and dinghy's will capsize and gear can break. Have fun.
@@georgevarlan1250 looks like a phishing link. Plans are a huge scam. Because if they are rubbish it's your fault for doing it wrong, so there is no comeback...If you must have plans do some research first.
You are a master boat builder sir. Thank you for sharing this great experience.. It is so instructional and informative. I understood now that I can never build a boat like this. Thank you for reminding about my limitations. :)
It's is not a Rock cisence! You need to buy the plans end folow the instructions, it's easy. Maybe you should start with an easier plan (the market have a long list of then). Don't be afraid! Be confident!!!
Awesome build and video although i know your method with the brad nails worked they do make a Tracing Wheel that spins and has sharp spikes to mark patterns onto whatever you want to trace i use one for sewing marine Vinyl, Canvas , and doing Vintage Automobile Interiors on my personal Car Collection sometimes after tracing the pattern i will use different t color chalk or powders to highlight the pattern onto my material Just to see it easier it may be faster. For you and they are reasonably priced online and Ebay
If you ever want to do a collaboration video, let me know! I'm working on the electronics for an Arduino based CNC and I'm teaching my son electronics using the 30 Days Lost in Space kit. I just ordered an Ender 3 Max Neo...
I built a Gatton CNC, which I did not film, because I was floundering my way through it. I then drastically improved it with stiffeners and I'm planning on implementing linear rails instead of v-bearings and aluminum angle. I'm in the middle of 3D printing custom dust extraction parts because the entire enclosure is in my son's bedroom, which he only uses one night a week.
It's very satisfying to build from plans. Also, you can spread the spending out over time if you just get one or two sheets of marine grade plywood at a time. With the kit, it's a bunch of money up front.
what a great job on this boat i’m a retired Woodworker with over 25 years of working in Architectual Woodworking and over 35 of Woodworking as a hobby a couple of comments / questions why not use a tracing wheel ? to transfer the blueprints to the plywood thats way faster than a nail or a dart and you can easily use colored chalk in powder form to highlight the dots btw a plastic spoon is a good tool to use on smoothing out the epoxy when parts meet at a steeper angle also another trick is cutting a corner off a Ziplock bag and filling it with Epoxy makes it where you can squeeze Epoxy into corners in a pretty efficient way ive owned 16 or 17 boats in my life of all sizes and styles and some of the small sailboats similar to what you built have been some of the most fun ones to have when my children were small i used to pack a lunch and some cold drinks and take them out on a one on one day to teach them the basics of Sailing i always told them and many others that if you can sail a small dinghy type of a boat you could Sail a Yacht as the basics are still the same plus its better that you know how to “ feel” the wind and Speed and not have to rely on electronics to tell you whats going on ironically I grew up in South Florida and in college i had to take a physical Education credit and i took Sailing which was on a small freshwater lake using Flyimg juniors and Wind Surfers prior to the class i had been Siling a 27 foot Catalina all over key Biscayne as i bartered with the owner to perform services to the boat in exchange to have use of her btw the owner did pay for all materials needed and ive also done extended Sailing through out the Carribean on much larger and luxurious Vessels or living the Dream as i like to call it
Hey Craig, thanks for the great comment! I used the nail trick instead of the pointy wheel because I'm getting older and starting to want to do things the "old fashioned" way. I tried the Zip-Loc bag trick on my first boat build, but I found I was wasting too much epoxy in the the bags and transferring the mix was another step that took time, which is against you. I've been making my own filleting tools since I started building boats. I've never tried spoons, but I can see where a teaspoon and a tablespoon might achieve the same effect. I also believe that real sailing is learned on boats less than 30 feet. I'm actually in the market for a Catalina 25 right now. I used to be a Base Manager and instructor for SailTime in San Francisco and ran charters in the BVI and USVI. Take care!
If you go the kit route, they recommend 2 gallons of resin and one of hardener. I think that beginner boat builders or ones like me that want to make their fillets really beefy will use a bit more. Yes, epoxy is one of the major expenses of building a boat.
I'm in the middle (at least IU hope I'm 50% through) and have referred to this video at least 10 times for guidance. Thank you for sharing. I am wondering why you went with paint rather than a bright finish on the transom?
I'm curious about the legal size of home-built boats. How did you get a HIN and Registration? Did you have to pass some state inspection for the HIN? Then I assume you register it after you get a HIN?
Thank you for your two excellent construction guides. Would you let us know how much epoxy was used to build the Passagemaker Dinghy and the Eastport Pram ?
Hey Boris, my builds are always on the heavy duty side, so I don't scrimp on epoxy for weight considerations. I just mix it up as necessary as I go along. The EP nominally takes a gallon of resin and 2 quarts of hardener and the PM takes 2 gallons of resin and a gallon of hardener. I would budget for a bit over that, just to be safe. The good news is that you can buy more as you go and epoxy gets cheaper by volume the more you buy. Conversely, if you just need to throw on that last coat, you can go buy a small amount. Hope that helps.
Lovely. How much space do you need to build this? Not much more than length of boat right? I only have a "one" car garage, though more like 0.8 cars.. Will the footprint of the boat plus a little to move around be enough?
Great question! I would say ideally AT LEAST 4 feet longer than the boat and AT LEAST 6 feet wider than the boat. There are several times in the build where you'll have to crawl around the boat while it's still sticky. Of course, this doesn't account for the substantial amount of workbench area you'll need. I had to build a 12'x4' folding workbench next to the boat because I was starting with plans. Kit builders may not have to worry about this. With that being said, if you're willing to deal with the inconvenience, you can go smaller. For example, my next boat will maximize the depth of my garage. You can also build the boat on a mold/frame that has casters and move it out and in as needed to give yourself some more breathing room. I've seen people that just barely fit the boat build in the garage on the diagonal. You can definitely build it in a one car garage if the car is parked outside. Garages are for shops, not for parking...
@@MidnightMaker thanks for the response, very helpful. Yeah haven't been a car in my garage in 9+ years :D Made several tables, a built-in etc, but nothing this long. I'd definitely go for a CLC kit, so less large-piece cutting etc. It would be tight, but would fit in my garage once I clean it up, with just enough space to move around it. Maybe 2-3 ft each side. Making a patio table, in a messy garage, I had to crawl under to get to the other side. Thankfully I'm slim and nimble (for now..). Like you said wheeling it outside also an option. Think it's doable, if there's a will there's a way! :) I'm looking at the CLC Skerry, such a beautiful boat.
Excellent job! I’ve thought about building a CLC boat. Did you feel it was worth it to build from the plans vs. buying the kit? Can you estimate how many working hours you might have saved using the kit or how much savings using the plans and buying your own materials? Thanks!
I've been browsing the internet looking for idea for a DIY dinghy and I found you video very interesting and informative. I really like the look of this dinghy and will be looking into it some more. Who knows - maybe it will be the first one in Poland! ? :) One question, if I may? What was the purpose of cutting out. the masonite templates together with the ply-wood parts?
Hey Steven, because of the effort of tracing and laying out the parts, I wanted to have templates of as many parts as possible in case I wanted to build another boat. If the parts cut come together to make a working boat, then I know the templates are correct. This saves about 20 hours on the build of another boat.
Thanks Mark, yes it is. I sailed my off Camano Island all the time and was even going to do the Salish 100 in it. I've sailed it from Semiahmoo in Blaine over to Point Roberts and back, 10 miles each way. I do have two Holt inflatable bladders like the ones they put in Optis for kids and all the proper safety gear and proper reefing ironed out. I also have an auxiliary outboard, just in case.
Sorry, I don't remember. CLCBoats.com has a bill of materials for what you need to build each of their boats. You can buy just a sheet or two at a time and cut out the parts that fit those. It's a way of self-financing a build that tends to be pretty long anyway.
Thanks for the awesome how to video! Are there other boat plans by CLC or other companies that you recommend for a novice first time builder? Also for a boat for someone that has never sailed but wants to get started.
CLC is probably at the top of the list and the EP/PM are probably the best bang for your buck. The pram design is very forgiving since it doesn't have a pointy end. The Chameleon is also a great starter boat. The PT-11 is a great boat, but only comes in a kit, so no plans. There are a few Dudley Dix designs that might work for you, as well as John Welsford. Hope that helps.
Thanks for the sharing of your build. I will be removing the wires tomorrow to fill in the strakes on my Passagemaker. You seem to have lot of know how of different types of epoxy. I do not. I live a bit South of you in Raymond Wa. and would love to have a conversation with you. I'd be glad to show you a bit of Willapa Bay and pass a couple of Dungeness crab on to you for your troubles. Let me know if you would be amenable. Thanks, Brian
Hey Brian, thanks for the invite. Google Maps shows it's an almost 4 hour drive. Raymond looks beautiful but I'm not sure I have a whole day to road trip down there. What do you need help with? Can we do it via Facetime? Sounds like you have things well in hands if you've been able to stitch it together and are ready to start removing wires. That means you now have a boat shape. Probably about 20 hours in if you built from a kit. I used "tack welds" between the stitches with a 3/4" radius spatula so I could go over them with a 1" radius later. I don't tape/mask my fillets, I just clean them up with a straight edge. I also smooth with a gloved hand and denatured alcohol as it's curing. Make sure to push your silica-thickened epoxy into the "V" the strakes make when you're filling the seams. This is probably the most important step to do the alcohol smoothing trick. Also, make sure none of it is oozing through and running down the insides. This would take hours to clean up.
@@MidnightMaker Thanks for the prompt reply. I wasn't actually inviting you down just for advice although that would be great. Mostly that was for after I'm done and perhaps a sail around Willapa Bay. I would really appreciate a conversation a time or three however. I don't own a cell phone but of course a computer but don't know how to exchange numbers. Thanks again, Brian
Great project. A question : there is an ever so brief flash of you wearing a scuba type mouthpiece with tubes going over your shoulders to a pair of disks. Something you made or purchased ?
Great! Can you explain about graphite filled epoxy? Here, in Russia - i don't hear about this type of surface coating. How is exactly name of product and manufacturer's name - may be i order sample for tryout. Thank you, stay healthy and have a nice sailing day!
Awesome boat. I don't have a router, so the one step I think I would have major trouble with is the rabbet joints for the side planks. Can that be done with hand tools?
At 8 planks by ~12 feet, that's 96 linear feet of 1/8" rabbets....I'm trying to get a sense of how much time that represents, to compare to the cost renting or somehow tracking down a router (and probably buying the appropriate bit, I imagine). What do you think, would I be cursing my spendthrift ways sitting there for weeks cutting these rabbets, while the summer slips by??
@@dpenman33 You can get a small trim router with a 1/4" collet that will be sufficient. For this particular task in the build, a router is really the ideal tool for the job. Also, keep in mind that if you biff this step, it's a huge/expensive mistake. A router will do it quickly, easily and safely.
Hey! I'm just about to start this same build actually. I'm wondering why you epoxied the planks before you stitch them. Wouldn't that make the planks more rigid and also crack the surface of cured epoxy you just finished? Just seems like those planks need to be flexible first in the stitching/shaping phase and then epoxied into rigidity afterwards no? Love the video though, I've watched it many many times the last couple years dreaming of when I would finally get to start this project. The time has come! I'm on the forums as "JonnyRubiks" btw.
Got my PM hull wet just once before winter set in (Still lots of finishing to keep me busy over the winter, but it's good to know she floats). I also have all the sailing parts and rigging still to make - I am curious if you obtained plans for the wooden mast or if you designed it yourself.
Hey Donald, congrats on your build! I used the document CLC provides for the optional gunter sloop wooden mast. I think I had to request it from CLC specifically as I can't find a link to it on the site.
@@MidnightMaker That's great, I managed to track down those plans from CLC. So the principle pieces are 1"x2"x138", what type of wood did you use? I think I have enough of the 1" mahogany board I ripped the rails from...
@@dpenman33 Hey Donald, sorry for the delayed response. I just saw this. I used Sitka spruce as it's the universally accepted best wood for making spars with. It cost about $300, but now I can't blame anything else if it fails.
me and my freinds want to start sailing, but we are still looking for jobs and dont have parents all that willing to spend 1k-3k so get us a sailboat, but luckily my dad loves building things with me, especially when a freind is involved, any tips on how I should go about this?
Hi, good evening! Not using screws for the skeg was your decision? I'm building the Eastport pram and it's in the project screws for the skeg and the rub rails I also (I think). Thanks.
I used silicon bronze screws and a Frearson bit for the screws on my Eastport Pram's skeg. I used an over-sized (larger radius) fillet on my Passagemaker and skipped the screws.
Hi! Good morning! Nice work! I am going to build the Easport pram, but as in Brazil the plywood length is shorter that US standard, I will have to make scarf joints. In the video it doesn't look that hard, but I think in practice it's hard to achieve an uniform slope. I saw you used the hand plane, but I once tried to scarf the edge of a plywood with it and found it very hard, but maybe mine wasn't sharp enough or it was small. I suppose it would be fine to use an electric plane, right?
You can definitely use an electric plane. You can also make a router sled to cut the scarfs by stacking all the edges like I did and wedging them in place. Check out The Art of Boatbuilding. He made a sled.
@@MidnightMaker I saw the video. Interesting, but as I only need to joint two plywood sheets, I think I'll do it manually. Do you have tips for that? Thanks
@@rioforforeigners João os chanfros podem ser feitos inicialmente com plaina elétrica e finalizadas com uma esmerilhadeira (electric angle grinder) com disco de lixa de 4" de diâmetro. O comprimento do chanfro deverá ser de pelo menos 8/1 vezes a espessura do compensado (Se o compensado tem espessura de 6 mm, o seu chanfro deverá ter uma largura de 48 mm). Eu particularmente faço os chanfros com uma proporção de 10/1. Meu e-mail é wjs415@gmail.com caso precise de algum outro suporte, ficarei feliz em ajudar. Temos uma escola de construção naval para amadores em Itajai - Santa Catarina
Great question. I work from plans because naval architecture is extremely complicated and if I'm going to invest a few thousand dollars and a few hundred hours of my time and trust my family's safety to a boat, I want it to be a proven design. There are about a dozen designers that I'm aware of that design small sailing craft that I would trust enough to build (e.g. John Harris, John Welsford, Francois Vivier, Dudley Dix, Joel White, Paul Gartside, etc.).
Why did you upsize the skids so much? They look very large. How long and wide are they and where from the stern transom did you start them. Thanks, Brian
Hey Brian, yes I oversized the skids quite a bit. On the Eastport Pram, I followed the directions and made the skids with oak. They were very difficult to bend along the rocker by myself and fasten in place with the silicon bronze screws. They also got destroyed on our very abrasive beaches in the PNW. For the Passagemaker, I decided I'd try what I hoped was an easier approach and something I hoped would last longer, so I went with laminated marine grade plywood. They were definitely easier to install since they were already the same curve as the hull and with no fasteners. With more meat, they hopefully will wear better with very little added drag in the water.
@@MidnightMaker Thanks. I am making mine out of Black Locust, 1 1/8 wide by 1 1/8 th high in three layers. I cut some narrow kerfs across and it takes the bend with ease so I won't need screws.I will also taper the leading edge sort of like the skeg. Easy does it, and thanks for getting back to me.
It took me about 250 hours to build, including making the sails. Are you looking for a sailing dinghy or just one for rowing? Also, what are your payload requirements? CLCBoats.com is a great place to start. The boats are attractive, easy to build and they have great support through the company and the forum.
In case you don't already know, and would benefit from an affordable DIY CNC that has essentially no limits on length, basically can do 4+ feet wide by however many feet long the table is, check out the free plans for the V1 Engineering LowRider v3 mostly printed DIY CNC. To see mine in action, check out this video: ua-cam.com/video/6x24C5ZwuCU/v-deo.html
I lived on a 21' sailboat for a while. If you find a place where you can setup a few sawhorses, you can do this anywhere. It's like when they build Wharram Tikis on a beach on an island in the middle of the Pacific.
Some of these comments are silly. I appreciate your time in producing this video. Looks like you had a good time. Thanks, I enjoyed it.
Wow! I can't believe you managed to build an entire sailboat in 12 minutes! You, my friend, are incredible.
All jokes aside, That was a nice tutorial
No, silly! The video was sped up to make the video shorter. It actually took three quarters of an hour, which is still pretty speedy actually.
This is one of the best videos I've seen to demonstrate the "Stitch and Glue" method of boat construction. I've been doing a lot of research because I'm starting my own project. I wonder how I missed this. I think it came up with a keyword of "sail", but this is a very valuable video for folks doing Boat Builder Central or Devlin style boats as well.
Sweet snorkel respirator at 6:39
She is absolutely beautiful!, well done!, happy sailing!. Many thanks. Gérard lacey in Ireland. X.
Thanks for great overview. Your video covered the areas in question that I had while building my Tenderly . This is my first ever boat build and finding videos with details pertinent are infrequent. Thanks
Very nice build presentation MM. I was very taken by the graphite epoxy as I am just making my centreboard case and have been thinking of how to finish the interior of it. Thanks for the tip.
Nice video. It will help other builders see all the steps in construction more clearly. While I envy your collection of tools, others should not be daunted by having fewer. Old-fashioned hand tools are quite enough for building a great boat -- though I confess to using a circular saw, a saber saw, and a power sander just because I already owned them. I think the key hand tools are a Japanese saw, a keyhole saw, a spoke shave, a block plane, a rasp, and a bunch of sandpaper!
One of the main reasons I had to use so many tools was because I built the optional wooden mast. Originally, the plans call for buying aluminum tubing for the mast. That's a pretty easy solution, but I wanted the experience and didn't want to see that hunk of metal center-stage on my wooden boat. I actually built a lot of the boat with just the hand saw, jig saw and Shinto rasp.
Nice build. I can't wait for the build you mentioned on "The Art of Boat Building's" channel.
Nice build. I also like your "land skiff" in the background of a few shots. I've been a Jeep fan since I was kid in the 60s and a sailboat fan since the 70s.
Thank you for this video. It is very clear and encouraging.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video! I like the sped up video and simple narration.
Very good ! I like very much this video to maker a 7,5 foot sail boat .I'm see and know much , wich class Tank you "Dad " , solong. !!!
'3 - making a boat shaped THING' LOL.
Great job Midnight Maker. Short Video, but VERY complete. Thanks for Sharing.
I love the pace of this. Great job on your boat, but also on the video.
Thumbs up Camaro Island State Park. Great video.!!!
Thank you for your video. I can comment on your laminated skids on the bottom of the hull. I just finished repairing a boat where the skids were thicker than the bottom plywood. They tore out some hull veneer at the forward ends, likely from weight on the inside of the boat flexing the bottom, and the plywood hull being more flexible than the skids. I tapered the thickness of the replacement skids for eight or ten inches so they went from full thickness to thinner than the hull plywood. I also made them longer than the originals, so they ended further forward on solid plywood, rather than the patched area from the previous skids. I'm confident that they will not damage the hull plywood as the bottom flexes.
The little voice at the end made a good video great!
Well done skipper.
Ha! Thanks. I couldn't even hear him over the sound of the wind in the sail. I discovered it when we got home and my wife showed me the video. Had to include it. Pure gold...
Terrific a wonderful guide. Yeah, Thanks.
thinking more of aircraft composite construction with fiberglass tube frame.
Nice build. I'm going to be doing one of these myself in the next couple months.
Feel free to contact me and/or make sure you hop onto the CLCBoats.com forum. Good luck!
Thank you for your beautifully narrated video tutorial which has excellent videography, lighting and editing too!
It was really interesting, informative and entertaining and stands as a perfect 'How To' for those that also want to build themselves this lovely craft. Subscribed.
Thanks, Felix! Do you have plans to build one yourself?
@@MidnightMaker Not one of these, I'm planning on building a smaller, two part hulled boat.
@@felixcat9318 Is it a nesting dinghy? Do you have to cut it in half?
@@MidnightMaker Not nesting, but folding, two individual hulls which are joined by a hinge, halving the overall length for ease of transport and storage.
Awesome video!!!
A jigsaw with a fine wood blade is an effective alternative to the hand saw. A router bit with a guide bearing and down shear allows routing the edges without splintering the top face of the ply. If you are goinng to put this effort into construction, marine ply that meets quality standards is highly recommended as it is solid all the way through without voids inside. Expect to replace wooden mast and boom after a few years as they suffer from water damage easily. If it's hollow the inside will rot. Aluminium spars are much more reliable. Sail with friends or a sailing club as it's a great deal of fun, and dinghy's will capsize and gear can break. Have fun.
when i built our boat i used a plan from t.co/uM8hFDqZOp and it had all the blueprints, supplies, materials, and list well laid out for me.
@@georgevarlan1250 looks like a phishing link. Plans are a huge scam. Because if they are rubbish it's your fault for doing it wrong, so there is no comeback...If you must have plans do some research first.
It is a good little sailboat, thanx for the video.
You are a master boat builder sir. Thank you for sharing this great experience.. It is so instructional and informative. I understood now that I can never build a boat like this. Thank you for reminding about my limitations. :)
It's is not a Rock cisence! You need to buy the plans end folow the instructions, it's easy. Maybe you should start with an easier plan (the market have a long list of then). Don't be afraid! Be confident!!!
@@wilsonjosesilva8751 Thank you for encouraging comment. (y)
that's indeed an epic build
I really enjoyed the video/build! Do you have plans for this boat you built? Thanks ✝️🙏❤️🇺🇸⛵️👣🍍😊
Lovely - given me inspiration for my little boat that needs some attention.
What is she?
"Graphite epoxy" that sounds fancy for black colored epoxy
turned out great - real nice boat
Awesome build and video although i know your method with the brad nails worked they do make a Tracing Wheel that spins and has sharp spikes to mark patterns onto whatever you want to trace i use one for sewing marine Vinyl, Canvas , and doing Vintage Automobile Interiors on my personal Car Collection sometimes after tracing the pattern i will use different t color chalk or powders to highlight the pattern onto my material Just to see it easier it may be faster. For you and they are reasonably priced online and Ebay
Well done, man. Texas
Very nice, congratulations.
Excellent! 🙂👍👍👍👍👍
Dude, you are amazing, and this video is awesome!
Dude, I love your videos. I'm really digging what you've done with your plasma cutter and I've downloaded a bunch of your stuff off of Thingiverse...
If you ever want to do a collaboration video, let me know! I'm working on the electronics for an Arduino based CNC and I'm teaching my son electronics using the 30 Days Lost in Space kit. I just ordered an Ender 3 Max Neo...
I have 20 other project videos in the can, I'm just too busy building stuff to edit videos. I can do better, I promise...
I built a Gatton CNC, which I did not film, because I was floundering my way through it. I then drastically improved it with stiffeners and I'm planning on implementing linear rails instead of v-bearings and aluminum angle. I'm in the middle of 3D printing custom dust extraction parts because the entire enclosure is in my son's bedroom, which he only uses one night a week.
@@MidnightMaker I'm definitely open the idea. Finding time is always the challenge!
Great video. Now I need to decide between building from the kit or from plans.
It's very satisfying to build from plans. Also, you can spread the spending out over time if you just get one or two sheets of marine grade plywood at a time. With the kit, it's a bunch of money up front.
Thanks for the information .
Quick and explained . very informative
Outstanding
Wood mast enough strong to hold the big wind power? You great job!
Thanks! Yes, the mast is definitely strong enough until you have to ease the mainsheet and/or reef.
Great job!
what a great job on this boat i’m a retired Woodworker with over 25 years of working in Architectual Woodworking and over 35 of Woodworking as a hobby a couple of comments / questions why not use a tracing wheel ? to transfer the blueprints to the plywood thats way faster than a nail or a dart and you can easily use colored chalk in powder form to highlight the dots btw a plastic spoon is a good tool to use on smoothing out the epoxy when parts meet at a steeper angle also another trick is cutting a corner off a Ziplock bag and filling it with Epoxy makes it where you can squeeze Epoxy into corners in a pretty efficient way ive owned 16 or 17 boats in my life of all sizes and styles and some of the small sailboats similar to what you built have been some of the most fun ones to have when my children were small i used to pack a lunch and some cold drinks and take them out on a one on one day to teach them the basics of Sailing i always told them and many others that if you can sail a small dinghy type of a boat you could Sail a Yacht as the basics are still the same plus its better that you know how to “ feel” the wind and Speed and not have to rely on electronics to tell you whats going on ironically I grew up in South Florida and in college i had to take a physical Education credit and i took Sailing which was on a small freshwater lake using Flyimg juniors and Wind Surfers prior to the class i had been Siling a 27 foot Catalina all over key Biscayne as i bartered with the owner to perform services to the boat in exchange to have use of her btw the owner did pay for all materials needed and ive also done extended Sailing through out the Carribean on much larger and luxurious Vessels or living the Dream as i like to call it
Hey Craig, thanks for the great comment! I used the nail trick instead of the pointy wheel because I'm getting older and starting to want to do things the "old fashioned" way. I tried the Zip-Loc bag trick on my first boat build, but I found I was wasting too much epoxy in the the bags and transferring the mix was another step that took time, which is against you. I've been making my own filleting tools since I started building boats. I've never tried spoons, but I can see where a teaspoon and a tablespoon might achieve the same effect. I also believe that real sailing is learned on boats less than 30 feet. I'm actually in the market for a Catalina 25 right now. I used to be a Base Manager and instructor for SailTime in San Francisco and ran charters in the BVI and USVI. Take care!
claps, claps, claps, from brasil. NIce and good job. Good luck, and good winds.
absolutely genious, excellent, phantastic, job - congrats, well done!!!
Fantastic with an F
Good work! 👍
good job
what a nice boat
Good video, I subscribed. I am also looking into the Shinto rasps- thanks.
my boat (which i will strat next week) is also S&G BUt i will screw also where the bulkheads meet the hull
Very nice job. I'm wondering how many gallons of epoxy was required in all? Is epoxy expensive?
If you go the kit route, they recommend 2 gallons of resin and one of hardener. I think that beginner boat builders or ones like me that want to make their fillets really beefy will use a bit more. Yes, epoxy is one of the major expenses of building a boat.
@@MidnightMaker Thanks for the info.
good job
but i must ask, is there any point in such a small jib? i mean is there any difference in handling or something else?
bye daddy, see you next year :D
With a nice boat and build like this, and it is still "Bye, daddy!" that I loved most!
i love how easy the boat plans are in t.co/uM8hFDqZOp to understand and the step-by-step videos they have. Makes getting material really easy
I'm in the middle (at least IU hope I'm 50% through) and have referred to this video at least 10 times for guidance. Thank you for sharing. I am wondering why you went with paint rather than a bright finish on the transom?
I'm curious about the legal size of home-built boats. How did you get a HIN and Registration? Did you have to pass some state inspection for the HIN? Then I assume you register it after you get a HIN?
Thank you for your two excellent construction guides. Would you let us know how much epoxy was used to build the Passagemaker Dinghy and the Eastport Pram ?
Hey Boris, my builds are always on the heavy duty side, so I don't scrimp on epoxy for weight considerations. I just mix it up as necessary as I go along. The EP nominally takes a gallon of resin and 2 quarts of hardener and the PM takes 2 gallons of resin and a gallon of hardener. I would budget for a bit over that, just to be safe. The good news is that you can buy more as you go and epoxy gets cheaper by volume the more you buy. Conversely, if you just need to throw on that last coat, you can go buy a small amount. Hope that helps.
@@MidnightMaker Thank you very much for your prompt and detailed reply.
Lovely. How much space do you need to build this? Not much more than length of boat right? I only have a "one" car garage, though more like 0.8 cars.. Will the footprint of the boat plus a little to move around be enough?
Great question! I would say ideally AT LEAST 4 feet longer than the boat and AT LEAST 6 feet wider than the boat. There are several times in the build where you'll have to crawl around the boat while it's still sticky. Of course, this doesn't account for the substantial amount of workbench area you'll need. I had to build a 12'x4' folding workbench next to the boat because I was starting with plans. Kit builders may not have to worry about this. With that being said, if you're willing to deal with the inconvenience, you can go smaller. For example, my next boat will maximize the depth of my garage. You can also build the boat on a mold/frame that has casters and move it out and in as needed to give yourself some more breathing room. I've seen people that just barely fit the boat build in the garage on the diagonal. You can definitely build it in a one car garage if the car is parked outside. Garages are for shops, not for parking...
@@MidnightMaker thanks for the response, very helpful. Yeah haven't been a car in my garage in 9+ years :D Made several tables, a built-in etc, but nothing this long. I'd definitely go for a CLC kit, so less large-piece cutting etc. It would be tight, but would fit in my garage once I clean it up, with just enough space to move around it. Maybe 2-3 ft each side. Making a patio table, in a messy garage, I had to crawl under to get to the other side. Thankfully I'm slim and nimble (for now..). Like you said wheeling it outside also an option. Think it's doable, if there's a will there's a way! :) I'm looking at the CLC Skerry, such a beautiful boat.
If you need to ask such a stupid question,i don’t think you would stand much of a chance building the boat !
Tony Wright - fuck off toni wrong
Excellent job! I’ve thought about building a CLC boat. Did you feel it was worth it to build from the plans vs. buying the kit? Can you estimate how many working hours you might have saved using the kit or how much savings using the plans and buying your own materials? Thanks!
I've been browsing the internet looking for idea for a DIY dinghy and I found you video very interesting and informative.
I really like the look of this dinghy and will be looking into it some more. Who knows - maybe it will be the first one in Poland! ? :)
One question, if I may? What was the purpose of cutting out. the masonite templates together with the ply-wood parts?
Hey Steven, because of the effort of tracing and laying out the parts, I wanted to have templates of as many parts as possible in case I wanted to build another boat. If the parts cut come together to make a working boat, then I know the templates are correct. This saves about 20 hours on the build of another boat.
Midnight Maker thank you. I thought it might be something like that but it’s always better to ask :)
great so great
Pretty nice that little dinghy!!! Where did you get your sails? Which material are they made from?
The sails are made from Dacron kits that I bought at Sailrite. They're specifically cut for the Passagemaker.
thanks!!! great video!!!
Thanks for the great vid. Is that enough boat for a bit of cruising here in Puget Sound?
Thanks Mark, yes it is. I sailed my off Camano Island all the time and was even going to do the Salish 100 in it. I've sailed it from Semiahmoo in Blaine over to Point Roberts and back, 10 miles each way. I do have two Holt inflatable bladders like the ones they put in Optis for kids and all the proper safety gear and proper reefing ironed out. I also have an auxiliary outboard, just in case.
I've been seriously considering building one of these. How many sheets of plywood did you need?
Sorry, I don't remember. CLCBoats.com has a bill of materials for what you need to build each of their boats. You can buy just a sheet or two at a time and cut out the parts that fit those. It's a way of self-financing a build that tends to be pretty long anyway.
Thanks for the awesome how to video! Are there other boat plans by CLC or other companies that you recommend for a novice first time builder? Also for a boat for someone that has never sailed but wants to get started.
CLC is probably at the top of the list and the EP/PM are probably the best bang for your buck. The pram design is very forgiving since it doesn't have a pointy end. The Chameleon is also a great starter boat. The PT-11 is a great boat, but only comes in a kit, so no plans. There are a few Dudley Dix designs that might work for you, as well as John Welsford. Hope that helps.
@@MidnightMaker Thanks for your advice! Looking forward to your next "epic" sail boat build video!
@@MidnightMaker What does EP/PM stand for? Thanks!
Does PM stand for popular mechanics?
Thanks for the sharing of your build. I will be removing the wires tomorrow to fill in the strakes on my Passagemaker. You seem to have lot of know how of different types of epoxy. I do not. I live a bit South of you in Raymond Wa. and would love to have a conversation with you. I'd be glad to show you a bit of Willapa Bay and pass a couple of Dungeness crab on to you for your troubles. Let me know if you would be amenable. Thanks, Brian
Hey Brian, thanks for the invite. Google Maps shows it's an almost 4 hour drive. Raymond looks beautiful but I'm not sure I have a whole day to road trip down there. What do you need help with? Can we do it via Facetime? Sounds like you have things well in hands if you've been able to stitch it together and are ready to start removing wires. That means you now have a boat shape. Probably about 20 hours in if you built from a kit. I used "tack welds" between the stitches with a 3/4" radius spatula so I could go over them with a 1" radius later. I don't tape/mask my fillets, I just clean them up with a straight edge. I also smooth with a gloved hand and denatured alcohol as it's curing. Make sure to push your silica-thickened epoxy into the "V" the strakes make when you're filling the seams. This is probably the most important step to do the alcohol smoothing trick. Also, make sure none of it is oozing through and running down the insides. This would take hours to clean up.
@@MidnightMaker Thanks for the prompt reply. I wasn't actually inviting you down just for advice although that would be great. Mostly that was for after I'm done and perhaps a sail around Willapa Bay. I would really appreciate a conversation a time or three however. I don't own a cell phone but of course a computer but don't know how to exchange numbers. Thanks again, Brian
Great project. A question : there is an ever so brief flash of you wearing a scuba type mouthpiece with tubes going over your shoulders to a pair of disks. Something you made or purchased ?
It's a Resp-O-Rator. Purchased a couple over the years.
@@MidnightMaker Thank you - gonna go look for one. Can't tell you how many times I'd wished for something like that!
First class, enjoy your sailboat. Out of curiosity was that a Goldwing or Harley"?
Ha! Honda Shadow Sabre VT1100.
Great! Can you explain about graphite filled epoxy? Here, in Russia - i don't hear about this type of surface coating. How is exactly name of product and manufacturer's name - may be i order sample for tryout. Thank you, stay healthy and have a nice sailing day!
Good job - and thank you.
Awesome boat. I don't have a router, so the one step I think I would have major trouble with is the rabbet joints for the side planks. Can that be done with hand tools?
Yes, you can buy a rabbet plane to do the same job.
@@MidnightMaker Thanks!
At 8 planks by ~12 feet, that's 96 linear feet of 1/8" rabbets....I'm trying to get a sense of how much time that represents, to compare to the cost renting or somehow tracking down a router (and probably buying the appropriate bit, I imagine). What do you think, would I be cursing my spendthrift ways sitting there for weeks cutting these rabbets, while the summer slips by??
@@dpenman33 You can get a small trim router with a 1/4" collet that will be sufficient. For this particular task in the build, a router is really the ideal tool for the job. Also, keep in mind that if you biff this step, it's a huge/expensive mistake. A router will do it quickly, easily and safely.
check craigslist, tons of cheap routers
Bonjour comment allez vous ? Auriez vous les plans s'il vous plaît ?
Hey! I'm just about to start this same build actually. I'm wondering why you epoxied the planks before you stitch them. Wouldn't that make the planks more rigid and also crack the surface of cured epoxy you just finished? Just seems like those planks need to be flexible first in the stitching/shaping phase and then epoxied into rigidity afterwards no? Love the video though, I've watched it many many times the last couple years dreaming of when I would finally get to start this project. The time has come! I'm on the forums as "JonnyRubiks" btw.
Did you make the sail cloth your self?
Got my PM hull wet just once before winter set in (Still lots of finishing to keep me busy over the winter, but it's good to know she floats). I also have all the sailing parts and rigging still to make - I am curious if you obtained plans for the wooden mast or if you designed it yourself.
Hey Donald, congrats on your build! I used the document CLC provides for the optional gunter sloop wooden mast. I think I had to request it from CLC specifically as I can't find a link to it on the site.
@@MidnightMaker That's great, I managed to track down those plans from CLC. So the principle pieces are 1"x2"x138", what type of wood did you use? I think I have enough of the 1" mahogany board I ripped the rails from...
@@dpenman33 Hey Donald, sorry for the delayed response. I just saw this. I used Sitka spruce as it's the universally accepted best wood for making spars with. It cost about $300, but now I can't blame anything else if it fails.
me and my freinds want to start sailing, but we are still looking for jobs and dont have parents all that willing to spend 1k-3k so get us a sailboat, but luckily my dad loves building things with me, especially when a freind is involved, any tips on how I should go about this?
hi, congrats on your work, looks great! where can i find the plans? cheers
Thanks! It's a Passagemaker from Chesapeake Light Craft at clcboats.com.
Very nice,my son will made one follow you,only for one person ? Can 3 person to sailing together? Thanks
The capacity of this design is 650 pounds or 295 kilograms. I can safely sail with my wife and 6 year old son plus some gear.
Hi, good evening! Not using screws for the skeg was your decision? I'm building the Eastport pram and it's in the project screws for the skeg and the rub rails I also (I think). Thanks.
I used silicon bronze screws and a Frearson bit for the screws on my Eastport Pram's skeg. I used an over-sized (larger radius) fillet on my Passagemaker and skipped the screws.
@@MidnightMaker thanks. Do you recommend that for the Eastport?
congrats is the least i can say!
Thanks!
Hi! Good morning! Nice work! I am going to build the Easport pram, but as in Brazil the plywood length is shorter that US standard, I will have to make scarf joints. In the video it doesn't look that hard, but I think in practice it's hard to achieve an uniform slope. I saw you used the hand plane, but I once tried to scarf the edge of a plywood with it and found it very hard, but maybe mine wasn't sharp enough or it was small. I suppose it would be fine to use an electric plane, right?
You can definitely use an electric plane. You can also make a router sled to cut the scarfs by stacking all the edges like I did and wedging them in place. Check out The Art of Boatbuilding. He made a sled.
@@MidnightMaker I saw the video. Interesting, but as I only need to joint two plywood sheets, I think I'll do it manually. Do you have tips for that? Thanks
@@rioforforeigners João os chanfros podem ser feitos inicialmente com plaina elétrica e finalizadas com uma esmerilhadeira (electric angle grinder) com disco de lixa de 4" de diâmetro.
O comprimento do chanfro deverá ser de pelo menos 8/1 vezes a espessura do compensado (Se o compensado tem espessura de 6 mm, o seu chanfro deverá ter uma largura de 48 mm). Eu particularmente faço os chanfros com uma proporção de 10/1.
Meu e-mail é wjs415@gmail.com caso precise de algum outro suporte, ficarei feliz em ajudar. Temos uma escola de construção naval para amadores em Itajai - Santa Catarina
@@wilsonjosesilva8751 oi Wilson obrigado, já fiz e fiz assim mesmo, só que com lixadeira roto orbital depois da plaina elétrica.
@@rioforforeigners já acabou o barco? Onde vc está construindo, qual região. Grande abraço
I have a question. Do you work from plans to save money or do you just prefer it?
Great question. I work from plans because naval architecture is extremely complicated and if I'm going to invest a few thousand dollars and a few hundred hours of my time and trust my family's safety to a boat, I want it to be a proven design. There are about a dozen designers that I'm aware of that design small sailing craft that I would trust enough to build (e.g. John Harris, John Welsford, Francois Vivier, Dudley Dix, Joel White, Paul Gartside, etc.).
@@MidnightMaker Thanks! I'll take that into consideration when I work on my upcoming winter project.
Why did you upsize the skids so much? They look very large. How long and wide are they and where from the stern transom did you start them. Thanks, Brian
Hey Brian, yes I oversized the skids quite a bit. On the Eastport Pram, I followed the directions and made the skids with oak. They were very difficult to bend along the rocker by myself and fasten in place with the silicon bronze screws. They also got destroyed on our very abrasive beaches in the PNW. For the Passagemaker, I decided I'd try what I hoped was an easier approach and something I hoped would last longer, so I went with laminated marine grade plywood. They were definitely easier to install since they were already the same curve as the hull and with no fasteners. With more meat, they hopefully will wear better with very little added drag in the water.
@@MidnightMaker Thanks. I am making mine out of Black Locust, 1 1/8 wide by 1 1/8 th high in three layers. I cut some narrow kerfs across and it takes the bend with ease so I won't need screws.I will also taper the leading edge sort of like the skeg. Easy does it, and thanks for getting back to me.
Can you cartop this?
Can I ask how long it took you to build? I'm contemplating building a dinghy and want to choose a relatively simple one.
It took me about 250 hours to build, including making the sails. Are you looking for a sailing dinghy or just one for rowing? Also, what are your payload requirements? CLCBoats.com is a great place to start. The boats are attractive, easy to build and they have great support through the company and the forum.
I am currently building the same boat. Can you suggest where to go for the sails? I have all the hardware.
I got the sail kits from Sailrite and sewed them myself with a regular household sewing machine.
Time to become a pirate!
Nice job, so if you can build this in 12 min.... maybe you can make me on on the cheap!!!! Ha
i`ll take one too :D :D :D
Please what kind of fiberglass you use. Number or quality any info about the fiberglass I will appreciate
It was 6oz bi-directional, 58" wide to cover bottom in one pass. Garboards were covered with scraps.
@@MidnightMaker thank you
I appreciate
😍
Where did you get the sails from?
They are DIY kits from Sailrite.com.
In case you don't already know, and would benefit from an affordable DIY CNC that has essentially no limits on length, basically can do 4+ feet wide by however many feet long the table is, check out the free plans for the V1 Engineering LowRider v3 mostly printed DIY CNC. To see mine in action, check out this video: ua-cam.com/video/6x24C5ZwuCU/v-deo.html
Thank you! I have the files, I just need to get up the courage to start printing them...
Тонкая работа!
Kinda hard to do this when you live on a 24" sailboat
I imagine everything is hard on a two foot sailboat! Unless you're Thumbelina.
I lived on a 21' sailboat for a while. If you find a place where you can setup a few sawhorses, you can do this anywhere. It's like when they build Wharram Tikis on a beach on an island in the middle of the Pacific.
Lindo
How much did this cost you?
It's difficult to say because I was sponsored by MAS epoxy and I bought a bunch of stuff at West Marine with my employee discount.
Man I thought I was going to be shown how to actually build a boat in a rediculously short amount of time. :(
That's why I clicked too!
I think we were clickbaited 😁
Subscribed
I live in Mongolia were no even single sail boat..
あれ？マストにグルーブ切ってなかった？なのにスタンディング・ラグ・リグって？
ルーターでマストの半分の溝を切り、接着しました。セールスライドは後で付けました。
I had a problem with this - until I realized the build VIDEO was only 12 minutes, the build itself probably took a week or two...
EXCELENT WORK !!! the shape of the boat is horrible
It's a pram, built with additional buoyancy in the bow.