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etrailer | DIY Install: Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver on your 2016 Audi Q5
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- Опубліковано 17 сер 2024
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Today on our 2016 Audi Q5, we're going to be taking a look at and installing Curt Class 3 trailer hitch receiver, Part Number C13136. Here's what this hitch is going to look like once it's installed on the vehicle. As you can see, it's pretty well hidden and tucked away underneath here. You can see the receiver tube opening and, if you're at a low enough angle you can see a little bit of the cross tube. It maintains an overall very clean look on the vehicle. . This hitch features a two inch by two inch receiver tube opening with a nice welded on reinforcement collar around it.
It features a 5/8 inch standard hitch pin hold. This will fit all of your Class 3 accessories. It's got this welded steel plate on the underside for the safety chain connection point. It's got nice large diameter holes in order to make sure that you can get just about any type of safety chain that you may have connected to that. With all non-trailer loads used with this hitch it does require the use of a stabilization strap. If you'd like to get one of those, you can get that on our site, Part Number 18050.
This hitch features a 750 pound max ton weight rating, which is the maximum downward force you can put here at the edge of the receiver tube opening. It features a 5,000 gross trailer weight rating, which is the weight of the trailer and anything that you may have loaded up on it. You will want to be sure to check the owner's manual of your vehicle to make sure it's capable of that type of weight. This hitch is not rated for use with a weight distribution system. One of the things I like most about this hitch is that it is tucked nicely away so it does maintain a clean look on the vehicle. It doesn't add this bulky thing that sticks out on the back. Now, let's give you some measurements to help assist you with your selection of hitch-mounted accessories such as ball mounts, bike racks, or cargo carriers.
The distance from the center of the hitch pin hold to the outermost part of the rear bumper is about 6-1/2 inches. The distance from the top inside edge of the receiver tube opening to the ground is about 12-1/4 inches. Now, let's show you how to install this hitch. The first thing we'll need to do to begin our installation is we're going to need to remove this lower part of the rear fascia. In order to do that, we'll start by taking this cover off. We need a T25 torque bit to remove these two screws and then you can take that out of there and set it aside.
Now we'll remove these two other T25 torque screws that are just further towards the front of the vehicle from where those two we're on the cover. Now, because in this lower fascia, it has back-up sensors. There's the plug that's on the back of one of them. There are four that are across the back of this fascia. We'll need to squeeze down on the tab that's on there. It should fall right off. The other three will be the same. Now we can begin to remove this lower fascia portion. In here in this corner you see there's a clip and you can press down on it to help begin to work it out from there. Then in order to remove this fascia you want to get behind that edge of it that you just popped out and carefully just begin prying outwards as there are clips all along the way that hold it in. Now you can see where this wiring is clipped on all along the way. We'll just have to take these and squeeze down on them and pry them off of there. If there are any that are giving you a hard time coming off, you can take a flathead screwdriver to help pry them off of there. You can take that lower fascia and carefully set it aside. Now I'll be taking our U-bolt that comes with the kit and installing them so that they come out through these two holes here. In order to do that we'll be using a fish-wire that's provided in the kit. Thread one end into the coiled end of the fish-wire and the other end of the fish-wire, we're going to bend that so that we can loop it through and bring it back out that lower hole. We'll let that U-bolt rest there. Then we'll install the U-bolt on the driver's side that same way. Now I'll need to take these two front plugs here in the trunk pan. We'll need to take those out and with this covering on the underside, you can take the utility knife and just carve around the edge. Once you've got it loosened up most of the way around, grab a pair of pliers and pull the plug out. We'll repeat that process removing the plug on the other side. Now we'll take one of our square hold spacer blocks and 1/2 inch carriage bolts, put them together and slide them up inside there. Then we'll take a little bit of silicone gasket maker and put it around here so when the hitch
Good video. I always chuckle with the English-sized fasteners being installed on a European car !
Dear Diary... I received my Curt Tow hitch for my 2016 Audi Q5 today.
1) As Daniel Pegues says below, "U-Bolt wouldn't slip thru." The distance between the bends on the U-Bolt is too long like someone didn't account for the thickness of the U-Bolt itself for the depth of the Audi metal bracket it has to pass thru. And really there is no need for it to be so long as the Audi Q5 has a slot so the U-Bolt should actually be on the shorter side.
-- One quick solution different from Daniel's I used was to just drill out the lower hole. I only needed another 1mm wider hole and then U-Bolt slipped through the bracket and out as expected, like in the video.
2) The distance, center to center, of the holes between the two U-Bolt mounting holes is 29 1/2 inches on the Q5. The center to center on the Curt U-Bolt bracket 29 1/4. Why make it soo difficult?
-- Solution 2... Out with the persuading tool... OK, now they are 29 1/2 ", and the U-Bolts slide right through without hassle when the hitch is fitted to the Q5.
3) Next I got everything in place, started tightening sequence, and the bottom right spare wheel bolt pulls out at the front. Again, we have this metal plate with a large off-centered square hole. Why not make this metal just a smidge thinner, have the hole centered, and have the metal strip sit in evenly with no chance of it being pulled out. Again, really unnecessary tolerances in play here.
At that point, I gave up... I will try again tomorrow.
Really, really poor quality control on the parts. And the real frustration is there is absolutely NO reason for the tolerances on these parts to be as tight as Curt has made them. I was so happy watching this video, knowing I have the tools and the know-how to complete this job. Having it arrive on time with all the parts there, shiny and new,,, then... 1, 2, 3... above...ugh!
It really is a shame. Good concept, unfortunately, very poor QA/Parts Control.
Thanks! The video is very helpful. The fascia came off of my Q5 slightly different, but everything else was the same. 2hrs, by myself, taking my time to make sure that I was doing it right, in my driveway with the Q5 on jack stands. The wife assisted me with holding the u-bolts in place.
This is great to hear! Thank you for sharing your personal experience with us. Check out the following link for a trailer wiring harness and accessories for your vehicle.
www.etrailer.com/t1-2016_Audi_Q5.htm
www.etrailer.com/maindept-Recreation.aspx
Please do a install on a 2015 version using the 78269 hitch!
We don't show 78269 as being a valid part number. The hitches available for the Audi Q5 are:
• Stealth Hitch # 391AUDQ509
• Draw-Tite # 75940
• Curt # C13136
• etrailer brand # e57AR
Which hitch were you interested in?
www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Audi/Q5/2015/C13136.html
Hi! Great video and explanation! A question, you think what is possible make it without removing the lower fin where are the rear sensors? Thanks!
It wouldn't be possible to install the # C13136 hitch without removing the lower fascia. It's the only way you'd be able to install the U-bolts. There are four rear sensors, at the corners and two closer to the center.
www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/CURT/c13136.html
The U Bolt didn't slip through to put on the nut like you showed in your video. And the U bolt ended up twisting in the metal box container. No matter what I tried, I could not get the U bolt to come out. So I ended up having to cut some metal out from the side of each metal box (about a 1.25 x 1.25 square) so I can access the U bolt, twist it into place, and force it through the holes. I've not had time to continue yet, but will do so in a little while to get this finished.
You may also want to tell your users that the installation for the 2014 Audi Q5 will vary. Your video may be for a 2014 Audi Q5, but my bumper is not like that. I had to review the 2016 video.
Thank you for the feedback Daniel. We will take a look at this and keep it in mind for reference for future videos.
www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Curt/c13136.html
@@etrailer Putting on that lower fascia is no joke. You should certainly mention how to do that as well for this type of bumper. I'm still struggling with it.
@@etrailer Finally got the fascia put back on. Took awhile, but eventually it started popping into place.
S-Line bumper is different. S-line has the removeable door, regular doesn't.
Why is the hitch so much bigger than OEM
The Curt hitch is pretty large, and will be mostly visible when installed, but if you're wanting something with more of an OEM appearance, check out the Draw-Tite # 75940 which you can see by using this link:
www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Audi/Q5/2015/75940.html
Just had this installed. I was told by uhaul it will tow the amount you said and Porsche said max a bike not jetskis. I’m towing about 1,200 lbs in total. Is it safe to tow this amount?
We recommend checking the owners manual of the vehicle to see what the manufacturer has tested to vehicle to haul.
www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Curt/c13136.html
How about wiring it? How does that connect?
You can view the wiring harnesses confirmed to fit a 2015 Audi Q5 at the link below. There is a hardwire option and a ZCI option which allows you to install a wiring harness without cutting or splicing into your vehicle's wiring.
www.etrailer.com/t1-2016_Audi_Q5.htm