I Built a Romantic Robot Multiface 128 Clone... but did it work?
Вставка
- Опубліковано 24 чер 2021
- - This video is sponsored by www.PCBWay.com -
We're building a Multiface 128 clone today. Originally by romantic Robot, this device allows you to freeze, inspect and dump the content of memory to a storage device, which in no way was a boon for pirates at all, nope!
🤞 PLEASE HELP MARK FIXES STUFF SURVIVE 🏆: Due to "The Event" my livelihood vanished in a puff of smoke. If you can spare some change to help support the channel it is really appreciated and even the smallest pledge goes a long way in helping make more content and feed my cats (and children). Visit / markfixesstuff for more info about Patreon Benefits!
00:01 - Introduction to the Multiface 128 clone for 48k and 128k ZX Spectrums.
00:13 - Mark Fixes Stuff Intro.
00:18 - PCBWay Sponsor Thanks.
00:31 - Multiface Clone project parts required.
01:57 - A ready-made ZX Spectrum edge connector from www.thefuturewas8bit.com/shop...
02:13 - Cleaning the Multiface 128 recreation PCB.
03:17 - Soldering the decoupling capacitors.
06:01 - Installing the resistors.
06:30 - Installing the DIP14 sockets for the 74 series logic chips.
09:49 - Installing the DIP28 sockets for the 27C64 EPROM and the SRAM chip.
11:40 - Installing the momentary tactile switch for the NMI function.
12:10 - Installing the ZX Spectrum Edge connector!
14:07 - Why you still need to clean "No-Clean" flux!
14:39 - Programming the EPROM for the Spectrum Multiface 128.
17:15 - Installing the supporting 74 series logic chips in the Multiface.
18:15 - Inserting the EPROM programmed with the Multiface 128 v87.12 ROM file.
18:23 - Installing the SRAM chip.
18:36 - The Romantic Robot 128 recreation for ZX Spectrum is complete!
18:45 - Testing the build works on a 48k Spectrum
19:25 - Test on a 129k +2 (Grey/Gray) Spectrum
19:30 - Incompatabilities with later models.
19:45 - Patreon thanks
20:05 - Further viewing that you might enjoy!
The project was reversed by Stephen Smith and has been used here with his express consent. You can order your own boards from www.pcbway.com/project/sharep..., where you will also find a parts list.
The file you need for programming the EPROM is here: markfixesstuff.co.uk/electroni...
Visit the ProjectSpeccy Tindie store here - www.tindie.com/stores/project... - Наука та технологія
Just an FYI, The board I sell on Tindie at: www.tindie.com/products/projectspeccy/recreated-multiface-128-bare-board/ has the small revision of a right angle touch switch option to make it more like the original device. The solder mask is in ProjectSPECCY.com red as well. Great video Mark!
Thanks Steve! Pinned this to the top!
Is there a case available for this project?
Also, how to make it passthrough?
Hi Steve, i have build that MF128 also but can't get it to work on a 48K or on a 128K +2 grey. That is WITH additional cards plugged in (like ZX-VGA-JOY) pressing the NMI button just let the screen flash for a second and resets or blocks the Spectrum. It only works fine on a Harlequin in 128k and 48K mode with additional cards. I have added a expansion board at the back of the MF128 + diode and placed it as first in the row, but no luck.
At least the solder wasn't lead free. Someone at work thought if the reel is green it is. Aweful stuff.
RFLMAO "That's numberwang!"
Solder-wise, I'm kinda sold on Kester... MG Chemical is alright but definitely not quite as good, at least for me.
I am now a Kester convert! Nearly £50 here for a 1lb roll but worth it. Thanks Charles!
15:37 "Let's Hack.. press the red button and poke values.. Let's Hack.. the games they're playing on the new +2s" 16:46 "Infinite lives? That's hex, B2.. restart the game, now look at you!" - D. Bowie (deceased)
... and if you type RUN...
I had one of those on my CPC 6128. I remember the green and red buttons lol.
I really appreciate that this was designed with the edge connector on the OPPOSITE side from the rest of the components. Very cool.
I’ve actually still got one of these in my attic somewhere 😊
I had a Multiface 128 for my Toastrack 128K back in 1986. It was the only way to get games on to my Opus Discovery 3.5" floppy drive. Wish I still had them all!
I used a friends Muliface 128 to copy games onto Microdrives in the 80's. I've got my own Multiface now, but my Microdrive carts have corrupted. LOL.
Probably need refelting now mate.
OCD on the caps yet resistors be like.... Bah!
Impatience > OCD
Nice vid, i still need to populate my board :)
With solder, your mileage may vary. However, I use Multicore. It's more expensive but consistently good. I've spent too much time in the past faffing around with bad solder.
Great content. Good quality solder = less drama for sure!
100 percent true. Sometimes it's nice to show that not everything is perfect every time in these videos!
Another great video. I had a MF2 for my CPC 6128 in the day. Right, now for “Jason Gets Jabbed!”
Love your channel from sweden
Awesome! Thank you!
@@OrangeCyanMagenta sweden not switzerland
Thanks for the tip on that orange-reeled solder Mark! I bought two reels of it in different thicknesses a while ago and haven't got to them yet... Looks like they'll be going in the bin!
I've bought some Kester now!
I had the multiface for the spectrum plus 3 great for saving games in memory to disk back in the day .
Love the electro sports background music. My Colonel Failure would approve!
Glad you like it!
Good reminder about sticking it in the backside, I always forget that.
-Dx
Nice job Mark - just sub'd. I used to have an old school MF128 clone that looked like it was cobbled together in the 80s. This SS board is excellent although it would be even better IMO if the edge connector attached to the other side of the PCB so you could see the ICs when it's attached to your Speccy..
"That's Numberwang!"
tip: my MultiFace 128 has 2 8k ram piggy backed and a switch to disable rom and switch to ram for a 64K spectrum.
In spectrum rom a routine to copy rom to 16k MultiFace ram. Then you can poke in rom.
Aren’t these bypass capacitors, if I am not wrong the coupling capacitors are found in amplifiers.
Lovely work Mark, even with that awful solder. 😁
Tell me about it
Is there a case available for this project?
Also, how to make it passthrough?
BBC News this morning: "Lorry driver shortage threatens Haribo sweets deliveries from Germany" - including Goldbears and Tangfastics. 😁
Noooooooooo!
74S260N chip is hard to come by, any idea if the 74F260 would work instead?
Looks like a drop in replacement according to the data sheets!
This is such a wonderful project. What's the best place (UK) to get the logic IC's from?
To be honest, right now you will need to grab them where they are in stock. I used CPC Farnell and ebay.
@@MarkFixesStuff i see what you mean.. 74S260N's seem hard to find - damn
you should get yourself some of that rad Stannol S-Sn60Pb40 solder
I need to try that one. I bet it’s expensive lol
@@MarkFixesStuff cant get it from the manufacturer anymore, only old stock from other people. thats how i got my 2 spools of solder
I have the Multiface One loved it then I got the Multiface 3 for my +3 was not so happy to find i could not load my games from disk without having the Multiface 3 connected and having to press the button so the games would load. Pressing the button downwards would sometimes causes the Spectrum to crash.
So for me the button would of been better fitted where it is on the clone board as you could support the Multiface unit while pressing the button between your finger and thumb.
Nice one Mark is it me or are those gummy bears putting on weight. ?
ohh im using that same solder... except it's .6mm and on the bottom it says "JINHU" not "KAINA"
Might be completely different. How do you find it?
@@MarkFixesStuff it seems ok to be fair, i brought some cheaper 1mm stuff and it was like soldering with custard so went back to this... i was also using cheap solder tips then i tried some real hakko ones .. the difference can not be overstated
excuse me I don't understand the purpose of this device. Is it for upgrade 48k to 128?
Hi Mark, i have build that MF128 also but can't get it to work on a 48K or on a 128K +2 grey. That is WITH additional cards plugged in (like ZX-VGA-JOY) pressing the NMI button just let the screen flash for a second and resets or blocks the Spectrum. It only works fine on a Harlequin in 128k and 48K mode with additional cards. I might check if it works on the grey if i use the composite output.
First thing to check is if the CPU is OK. Sinclair cheaped out and used lower cost parts that OFTEN had a weak or missing m1 line signal. It was a problem even back in the 80s. Swap in a known working Z80 and see if it works. It is common!
@@MarkFixesStuff Hi Mark. Weird thing is, the NMI works fine with a DivMMC for example. If i connect the MF only and use the VGA (mod) output, then it works.
@@ronnyverminck2741 Newer MMC models, like the DivMMC Future for example, don't reley on a good M1 line. What model do you have?
Good 'ol numberwang. i did miss it being on after The Event tho :( television just want the same. well it was the same, we just had that one show. :I
Don't try to remember The Event.
@@MarkFixesStuff Oh God i thought of the Event! D:
TAKE HIM AWAY
@@MarkFixesStuff XD
I
And by
Revolve that
Insert your part into the right position? Is there really a 'right' position tho?
I hope you have super ventilation when using the toxic China stuff. Could be fun to see what that solder is realy made of, proberly filled with lead. 😏
Yeah, but not when the camera is on. Too many vibrations
I am not sure what country you reside in. The best solder you can buy is KESTER SOLDER 24-6040-0027 Wire Solder. Which is 0.031" in diameter. It might be more expensive than the solder you just bought, but the quality is unsurpassed. If you have country restrictions regarding the use of lead in the solder then you would of course have to go with the lead free solder. Again buy the KESTER brand. Can't go wrong with that. I never go with the no clean stuff. You always have to clean it anyway so why waste extra money on that feature.
Kester keeps coming up over and over again. It is expensive but I’m really compelled to get some now. I’m in the UK so the restrictions on leaded solder are “not for commercial sale” but I can buy it. The no clean flux I use is just my favourite because it works so well, and although I need to clean it anyway, it’s easier to get off than some of the others which can be like toffee!
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. It’s really helpful stuff!
Just ordered 1lb roll. Sadly I’m quite excited to try it!
October 11, 1996
Congress passes the Economic Espionage Act, which makes it a federal crime to steal trade secrets either for the benefit of a foreign power or with the intent of damaging the company.
What are you even talking about?
Your soldering iron doesn't look hot enough! Set to 350 and see if there is any difference.
If not, it's your solder. I use only Kester lead solder from Digikey. It's a whopping $60 USD a role.
This may sound expensive and not lead-free, but there is a reason companies use good quality solder, instead of cheap Chinese imitations.
Working with a good solder, makes soldering a real joy.
I would pull my hair out, if my solder looked like yours. Also, nothing beats real flux. Forget non-clean and all that jazz.
They all leave residue. I hate residue, so IPA to the rescue...
I’ll try whacking the iron up to 350 degrees but it’s just crap solder. I was actually given it for free by a vendor and I’m waiting for my decent solder to turn up. Unleaded solder is dreadful. I tend to use leaded myself, especially because vintage machines already have leaded solder on the boards. To be honest, using the bad solder was just a silly distraction for the video.
Btw, this topnik flux is amazing. Stinks to high heaven but works great.
@@MarkFixesStuff It's probably made of ammonium chloride to make it water soluble.
The best are the natural rosin for soldering. I like the pine smell. Not like some horrible chemical.
The amount of flux and quality of flux inside the core of solder is important and often the first thing they skimp on.
I always use some flux. Just as I would when doing plumbing with copper pipes.
Soldering without any flux whatsoever, is impossible. Solder just won't flow and clumps up at the tip of the iron.
Are you trying to stretch the vids out? Your through hole technique is ridiculously overengineered. You're doing good stuff but really stretching it out.
I don't need to stretch the videos out. The pace is so that people can follow along if they like.
Ah, I think I know why you said that. I forgot to manually edit the ad breaks and youtube inserted SEVEN!!!!!!! I've been in and edited it down to three as usual.