Achieving the Ideal Press Fit in 3D Prints
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- Опубліковано 2 тра 2024
- Chuck shows you how to get that perfect press fit by hand 3D Print in this weeks episode of Filament Friday.
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I also recommend you print a top bracket for the phone so the phone doesn't fly out when you hit a bump.
just needs to be deeper pocket so just the camera is exposed. Then pad it with something like the rubberized shelf material via a piece cut to wrap front, under, and back as you slide it down in.
If you rotate the hex openings by 90 degrees in the design it will print better with less bridging required.
Looks good CHEP. Thanks.
Practical prints are some of my favourites
I always learn something from a practical print video.
If you printed it in PETG it would be flexible enough and not crack so you would not need both sides. PLA will get more brittle when it gets colder out.
Neat little projects! These are always interesting and fun. Wondering what you will come up with on the truck insert.. Thanks for sharing w us!
Pretty nice design, Chuck! 😃
Thanks a lot for all the tips!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I’ve just been grappling with this problem, thanks
on a more advanced cad software you can make the hole quite bigger (0.5mm is my go to) and add a compressible rib goind inward on each flat side that will be crushed by the nut when pushed inside
pretty sure you can make the back end have ridges similar to a horizontal spring, that way itl flex around and have less strain when putting on and removing it from the scooter
Very nice! One minor design addition I would add would be a gusset placed in-between the two nuts.
My kid has a scooter that had the seat and really didn't want that on it. I removed the seat and then designed/3d printed a flare to go over the rear tire. In it I also put an LED strip to make a brake light. Really happy with how it finished out.
you can also add a taper to the hexagon I usually use something aroune 3 deg to make it even tighter when you tighten it. And I assuem you printed it in PLA that is why it cracked. Print it in PETG and use 2 perimeters and 100% infill and you probably can mount a seat to it lol.
Interesting video.
1- thought of doing the original print in TPU? It flexes and adds grip.
2 - people underestimate tinkercad.
3 - could add a clip retainer to the bracket to retain your phone.
Why dont you use the broom Holder the Inside goth somekind of a spring.that wint break and the make the holes on tinkercad
Always wished for a reference sheet of clearances to use for things including your nut clearance for snug fit, etc. I would use some of the rubberized shelf padding material to cut a piece long enough to wrap front and back and underneath to slide the phone into the pocket. Maybe even another piece cut and dropped into the bottom for add'l padding down there.
Some day you need to spend an afternoon and learn FreeCAD. Like you, I started out in Tinkercad and I can tell you, a few hours of learning and you'll never look back. The simple ability to draw any shape with line segments or curves, as complex as necessary, and extrude that out to any height in a single command simply changes everything. And then you realize it's the same process for any pocket or opening; draw the shape on the surface and pocket or hole it as deep as you want.... It eliminates all the solids and holes that you have to join to make complex shapes. Simply draw any shape, and either extrude it or use it to make a cavity of any depth... I used to dread the thought of all the steps to make a complex shape in Tinkercad, that's all gone now, and the niceties of one click rounding or chamfers on complex shapes, precise curved cuts, etc. make it way more useful and fun. There're tutorials for everything once you get past the basics of the interface and toolbar functions.
why not a picatinny rail or something so you can easily swap on different permanently attached hardpoints?
You might want to account for the holes in the bottom of the phone holder to line up to the phones speaker, jack and mics etc. (and to allow any rain or whatnot to drain out the bottom.
I Love the Sharp edges on those corners, Maybe if someone wants to steal it will hurt themselves.😂😂😂
Chuck! I have a request for a video! You said this channel is going to be more about electronics projects, so... My intercom keeps waking up my daughter when we order food at night. I can figure out how to transform this loud sound in a light that flashes in another room.
Heeeeelp!
I suggest desolder the buzzer and replace it with an LED and resistor. Or maybe replace with a door bell that calls your phone.
@@FilamentFriday you're a life saver! Tks
There is software that will smooth out your iPhone video, not sure if tpu would beheld reduce vibrations but it might be with a try!
CHEP got a electric scooter. Dude is cool! Now I want to hear about his Electric Unicycle 😂 Inmotion V14 Adventure
Make the whole thing modular so you can have quick releases and all of that! So you can easily swap between "modules" and take them with you when you park the scooter in public
Hi Chep is this design available for download please
Soon.
With press fit I have had nightmares with some filaments. I would make 0.1mm adjustments and the carbon fiber tube I am working with won't fit, the other way around won't hold. This is carbon fiber reinforced petg on k1 max. I resorted to adding a thin layer of epoxy inside to make it a tight fit that can be disassembled
For such filaments, make a test print with 5 or so different clearances side by side in a small print and see which fits best.
My printer is printing holes undersized. Do you have a video about fixing that? Thanks
sometimes changing the order of printing of the walls can help (try outside first)
@littlefrank90 Thanks will try that.
He does have a video about adjusting hole sizes. He even shows how to do it in 3 different slicers. I don't remember the name, but I think it was 6 or 8 months ago.
Just design a small test print with 5 or so various size and see which fits best afterwards to use.
@brianmi40 did that and followed the advice on hole sizing from Chep and my printer is on size.
I'm going to watch the whole video, but wouldn't nuts encapsulated in the print be the most secure method?
Design it so the only openings are just big enough for the bolts. You can put pauses in the G-code once the holes for the nuts are complete, drop the nuts in place, then resume the print.
I use this method for placing magnets inside my prints that need them.
This works on the K1 but each 3D printer has it’s own tolarances. When it’s printed on a K1 the nuts are snug but when printed on another printer they may be too tight.
For printers which are properly dialed in and produce walls not exceeding the design boundaries, this clearance is pretty much universal. Aside from CHEP's Creality K1, it's exactly what I use on both my Ender and my M45 delta. Not just for nuts, but even press fit of 2040 extrusions.
Simply create a tiny test print with 4-5 nut clearances side by side and after you can see which fits best...
@@brianmi40 That works, but if your printer is dialed in, you're going to find CHEP's recommendation is the best. If not, it's better to calibrate your printer than to change your design, so that your design works across a range of printers.
@@daliasprints9798 May work here, but there's tons of other situations that you won't find a spec for, that my method will work on.
Make a gimbal.
Maybe I'm an idiot, but I'm having a rough time creating the geometry.
It's WAY WAY easier in a real CAD system like FreeCAD. I started out on Tinkercad and dreaded all the positioning and joining of hole parts to get what you needed, then unjoin to move for adjustments and rejoin...
FreeCAD you simply draw the complex shape of one side of the clamping part as seen top down (curved portion and "wings" for the nuts: all as one drawing shape), then extrude it up as high as you want it to be tall. It's a game changer when you realize you can draw any shape, no matter how complex as just a 2d drawing, then extrude it to desired height. Then when you realize it's the same thing for any cutouts, cavities or holes: draw the shape on the surface, and tell it how deep to make the pocket or hole (partial for nuts, all the way for bolt holes...). Once you realize you can do all these steps on any surface of the object you are creating then it just explodes for you and you realize how trivial it is to create parts of this complexity going forward.
With dimensions in hand and FreeCAD open, I could make his phone mount in about 2 minutes. seriously. Hundreds of tutorials on YT and you can't be free for the open source software.
@@brianmi40 Thanks! I'm using Fusion 360 and still see no way to create the hex to the dims according to the video.
@@mikewaskewicz no polygon tool?
@@brianmi40 Yes, I tried the polygon tool and manually also. It comes out distorted because of the additional clearance across the flats. Have you drawn the hex to Chep's numbers?
@@mikewaskewicz No, haven't had occasion to embed nuts yet.
Your measurements and clearance adjusting seems a bit weird to me. First, the measurement across the points is off. A hexagon that's 7.90 across the flats would measure 9.12 across the points. A real world nut would probably measure a bit less across the points because the corners are slightly rounded, but I can also see in the video that the nut was a bit crooked when you measured across the points. Measuring across the flats should be all the information you need.
For your model, it doesn't make sense to change the "across the points" and "across the flats" dimensions separately. Either one of those fully defines the size of a hexagon. I'm not too familiar with tinkercad, but I guess maybe you are just scaling it differently along the two axes? In that case, you are making a "squashed" hexagon and not a regular polygon. I think this would be counterproductive to having a good fit. Ideally, you would want to maximize the surface contact surface area, so the hole should should be a regular hexagon and not a "squashed" one.
I would just measure across the flats and make the hole a regular hexagon using the same measurement plus your desired clearance. There's no need to measure across the points at all.
I would rather turn those nuts 30° around. That way no need for bridging, the bolts can get closer to the curved part and the flaps can be smaller at the same time. Some chamfered ribs below, above and between the nuts would make the whole thing stronger and even look better.
Sorry but your age its for electric scooter?😅
Your grammar is poor.
@@meanman6992 i know i don't speak English well.
And what i answer was a joke 🙂🇨🇾👍🏻
I'm 66 and have ridden one for years. Does get a bit tiring standing though on long rides, so prefer my electric bike.
@@brianmi40 nice.
Was a joke for Chep.
In less lethal community they know my humor 😅
@@meanman6992 you like 3d printet pew pew Mr ATF?😜
1. There's like absolutely no reason why you couldn't have made this with Heat Set Inserts ( other than it being an educational video about press fit Nuts )
2. I'd be having *_MAJOR™_* trust issues with the Cup only holding onto the lower ⅓ of the Phone - Maybe increase the depth the Phone can slide in to right up the Camera Array?
3. I know ( or at least I think I do ) this Channel isn't exactly known for its elaborate CAD designs but man... Strain relief Fillets, Chamfers, Ribs, etc... Their total lack of existence me sad 😑
I agree with points 2 and 3, but more people will already have hex nuts lying around and they work just as well as heat set inserts. Other than looking a little cleaner and being less prone to falling out after the material creep sets in, there isn't really any compelling reason to use heat set inserts over hex nuts imo.