Another superb analysis. Your comments about the distribution of the loop mass and anchor placement are especially helpful for me. Thanks! I look forward to your upcoming videos.
I got these 4 meter Skagit heads for taimen fishing on a 11' switch rod and anchor placement needs to be literally right next to me. But they cast massive flies far if you sweep slow and low. On recordings I've noticed that they actually produce more of a V-loop on a good cast. They basically straighten out completely at the start of the forward cast and offer 100 percent of their mass to load the rod.
Hello Peter. You are talking about D-loop and V-loop. Personally, I always use V-loop. I create it by having the rod tip close to the surface of the water and high speed on the line in the back cast.
Hi!, this analisys should help me a lot, and maybe next video more help. I´ve started using these technics on a 1 hand 4wt rod with a 10foot micro skagit head(175gr), this past weekend tried to make a good cast but the anchor placement is driving me mad!, the best results I was able to get was on a continuos moving head before the cast, but It was looking more of a rollcast than a dloop cast. can you give me any advice on this?
The next few videos should address all of these issues, plus provide some potential solutions.They'll be released in five day intervals.There's a video on casting these short heads plus two on anchors.
Tack igen Peter för en överskådlig film om korta Skagitlinor. kanske du skall prata om hur långa spetsar man bör använda till dessa korta linor. En regel jag själv använder när det gäller vikten på spetsen är 1/3 av boody vikt.
Basically it's a flat sweep back followed by the rasie of the rod into the firing position as two distinct motions. When we make our sweep into the backcast and climb the rod into the firing position all in one motion, it produces a more open D-Loop, To get a V-Loop, make the flat backcast, then raise the rod. I'll see if I can get a video out on V-Loops.
I've also had success forming a V-loop by using an "out and back sweep", rather than an "around the arc" sweep. The first part of the sweep is out towards the river, and without a pause the second part brings the loop and rod back into the key position.
Peter, with nobody around to show me (I'm in a warm water fishery so it's bass and pike) and I'm trying to figure out all this spey stuff from watching videos. I'm an experienced over-hand caster and wanted a longer rod for casting 6" pike flies. I hedged my bets and bought a 6 wt, 11.5 ft switch-rod, a Rio "Switch Chucker" line (420 gr, 25 ft head) and some sink-tips figuring I could try spey casting and fall back to over-hand casting if that didn't work out. Could you comment on the equipment and its applications. If not suited to (attempting) spey casting, what line would you recommend? Thanks!
If we're stripping flies, especially large, high drag pike flies, then sinktips provide no value. The speed of the strip and the drag of the fly will have the fly running an inch or two under the water. To get a pike fly deep we need to use a full sinking line. Spey casting a large, high drag fly can be an exercise in frustration it we don't get it just right. On the extraction of the anchor, the drag of the fly can suck all of the power out of the cast. Try Spey casting a popper as an example - very ugly. I will use a short Spey cast to set up an overhead cast when I'm using high drag/weighted flies, but I don't use the Spey cast as the main cast. The rig you described will work fine for Spey casting average sized flies and will work fine with low drag pike flies like my Yak 9. You may find that large, high drag flies very frustrating to cast.
@@hooked4lifeca Thanks for the detailed reply Peter! Yeah, found that the sinktips were not very effective in sinking typical pike flies so I'm tying sparcer with lower drag materials like saddle hackle instead of schlapen. Been experimenting with Not2Kinky titanium wire as a leader - it's a bit stretchy but lies straight ( no coil), turns over well and sinks super fast - I'm not sure if the strech is working for or against me. I use full sinking lines and have been using a roll cast to bring the fly up for the next cast, guess I'm already starting to spey :) Fortunately for my spey casting I've found that the local bass are fond of Intruders and they cast well for me. Good points and videos Peter! Thanks!
Another superb analysis. Your comments about the distribution of the loop mass and anchor placement are especially helpful for me. Thanks! I look forward to your upcoming videos.
I got these 4 meter Skagit heads for taimen fishing on a 11' switch rod and anchor placement needs to be literally right next to me. But they cast massive flies far if you sweep slow and low.
On recordings I've noticed that they actually produce more of a V-loop on a good cast. They basically straighten out completely at the start of the forward cast and offer 100 percent of their mass to load the rod.
This video helped me a lot! Thanks.
Hello Peter. You are talking about D-loop and V-loop. Personally, I always use V-loop. I create it by having the rod tip close to the surface of the water and high speed on the line in the back cast.
I'm not making a distinction between V and D-Loops in these first few videos. I discuss V-Loops in later videos.
In general shorter heads can be cast efficiently with a lower rod angle, which allows the fly and leader to "anchor-skip" for an explosive cast.
Hi!, this analisys should help me a lot, and maybe next video more help. I´ve started using these technics on a 1 hand 4wt rod with a 10foot micro skagit head(175gr), this past weekend tried to make a good cast but the anchor placement is driving me mad!, the best results I was able to get was on a continuos moving head before the cast, but It was looking more of a rollcast than a dloop cast. can you give me any advice on this?
The next few videos should address all of these issues, plus provide some potential solutions.They'll be released in five day intervals.There's a video on casting these short heads plus two on anchors.
Tack igen Peter för en överskådlig film om korta Skagitlinor. kanske du skall prata om hur långa spetsar man bör använda till dessa korta linor. En regel jag själv använder när det gäller vikten på spetsen är 1/3 av boody vikt.
I have some older videos that look at sink tip to body ratios. ua-cam.com/video/X4b8IhLiJX0/v-deo.html
I’ve been looking for info on forming a V loop. Not much out there. What do you do to change a D loop to a V loop.
Basically it's a flat sweep back followed by the rasie of the rod into the firing position as two distinct motions. When we make our sweep into the backcast and climb the rod into the firing position all in one motion, it produces a more open D-Loop, To get a V-Loop, make the flat backcast, then raise the rod.
I'll see if I can get a video out on V-Loops.
I've also had success forming a V-loop by using an "out and back sweep", rather than an "around the arc" sweep. The first part of the sweep is out towards the river, and without a pause the second part brings the loop and rod back into the key position.
Peter, with nobody around to show me (I'm in a warm water fishery so it's bass and pike) and I'm trying to figure out all this spey stuff from watching videos. I'm an experienced over-hand caster and wanted a longer rod for casting 6" pike flies. I hedged my bets and bought a 6 wt, 11.5 ft switch-rod, a Rio "Switch Chucker" line (420 gr, 25 ft head) and some sink-tips figuring I could try spey casting and fall back to over-hand casting if that didn't work out. Could you comment on the equipment and its applications. If not suited to (attempting) spey casting, what line would you recommend? Thanks!
If we're stripping flies, especially large, high drag pike flies, then sinktips provide no value. The speed of the strip and the drag of the fly will have the fly running an inch or two under the water. To get a pike fly deep we need to use a full sinking line.
Spey casting a large, high drag fly can be an exercise in frustration it we don't get it just right. On the extraction of the anchor, the drag of the fly can suck all of the power out of the cast. Try Spey casting a popper as an example - very ugly.
I will use a short Spey cast to set up an overhead cast when I'm using high drag/weighted flies, but I don't use the Spey cast as the main cast.
The rig you described will work fine for Spey casting average sized flies and will work fine with low drag pike flies like my Yak 9. You may find that large, high drag flies very frustrating to cast.
@@hooked4lifeca Thanks for the detailed reply Peter! Yeah, found that the sinktips were not very effective in sinking typical pike flies so I'm tying sparcer with lower drag materials like saddle hackle instead of schlapen. Been experimenting with Not2Kinky titanium wire as a leader - it's a bit stretchy but lies straight ( no coil), turns over well and sinks super fast - I'm not sure if the strech is working for or against me. I use full sinking lines and have been using a roll cast to bring the fly up for the next cast, guess I'm already starting to spey :) Fortunately for my spey casting I've found that the local bass are fond of Intruders and they cast well for me. Good points and videos Peter! Thanks!